Travels in the Confederation, 1783-1784

'

.

1011

v.1

LIBRARY

~

in ti)t Confederation

[1783-1784]

FROM THE GERMAN OF
JOHANN DAVID SCHOEPF

TRANSLATED AND EDITED
BY

ALFRED J. MORRISON

LIBRARY

NEW

NEW JERSEY, PENNSYLVANIA, MARYLAND, VIRGINIA

PHILADELPHIA

WILLIAM J. CAMPBELL
1911

!

COPYRIGHT, 1911,

BY
ALFRED J. MORRISON

BALTIMORE, MD., U. S. A.

e i f e

burcf) cinigc tier mittlerti tmb fubK$ett

toe re t n tg t ett

ttor&amertfamfcben ©faatw

Oft'SfotiDa unb ten S5a^ama

unfernommen in ben 3a&«n 1783 unb 1784

>. 3(.

oo n

JDaioit

. 95rant>en&. OnoIjS. unb

t uttfr

ju

it tinem

r I a n g e n

ADVERTISEMENT

Dr. Schoepf, at the time of his travels in America,
was in his thirty-second year. He was born March 8,
1752, at Wunsiedel, (birth-place of Jean Paul), in the
principality of Bayreuth, a town of the Fichtelberg and
a region of mines and quarries. His father was a mer-
chant well-to-do, who had him educated by tutors at
home, sent him to the Gymnasium at Hof, and, in 1770,
to the University of Erlangen. Schoepf's studies there
were primarily in medicine, but he followed lectures
in the natural sciences generally; Schreber and Esper
were his masters in botany and mineralogy. In 1773
he was at Berlin for work in forestry. Before taking
his degree at Erlangen, in 1776, he travelled, investi-
gating the mine country of Saxony, was in Bohemia,
studied at Prague and Vienna, traversed Carniola,
Northern Italy, and Switzerland. It was already plain
that he would not spend his life as an obscure prac-
ticioner. During 1776, at Ansbach, he thought of
going to India. The next year he was appointed chief
surgeon to the Ansbach troops destined for America,
and arrived at New York, June 4, 1777. After his
return to Europe, in 1784, Dr. Schoepf was diligent in
scientific research and held besides many positions of
public trust, dying September 10, 1800, as President
of the United Medical Colleges of Ansbach and
Bayreuth.1

1 Hirsch, Biogr. Lexikon der hervorrag. Aerzte oiler Zeiten
und Volker. Fr. Ratzel, in Allgem. Deutsche Biographie.
Edw. Kremers, Introd., Materia Medica Americana, Lloyd

VI ADVERTISEMENT

As much as any other man at that time Dr. Schoepf
seems to have made North America his study. The
following are his most important contributions touch-
ing this Continent: Ueber Klima, Witterung, Leben-
sart und Krankheiten in Nordamerika ; 2 Von dem ge-
genwartigen Zustand in Nordamerika aus dem Lande
selbst, im Jahre 1783 ; 3 Vom amerikanischen Frosche ; *
Der gemeine Hecht in Amerika, and Der nordameri-
kanische Haase ; 5 Beschreibung einiger nordameri-
kanischen Fische, vorziiglich aus den newyorkischen
Gewassern ; 8 Materia Medica Americana, potissimum
Regni Vegetabilis ; ' Beytrage zur mineralogischen
Kenntniss des ostlichen Theils von Nord Amerika ; 8

Library Bulletin, Cincinnati, 1903. Rosengarten, The German
Soldier in the Wars of the United States. Philadelphia, 1890.
Pp. 91-98.

2 In Meusel's Hist. Literatur, 1781; appearing also, modified,
as a prefix, Reise II. Translation of the original pamphlet by
Dr. J. R. Chadwick, Boston, Houghton, 1875, Svo. pp. 31

3 In Schloezer's Staats-Anzeigen, VII, 1785. Four articles.

4 In Naturforscher, No. 18.
3 Ibid., No. 20 (1784).

6 In Schrift. der Berliner Gesellschaft Naturforschender
Freunde, No. 3 (1788), p. 138 ff. — "The first special ichthy-
ological paper ever written in America or concerning Ameri-
can species." Goode, Beginnings of Natural History in
America, Smithsonian Institution Report, 1897, II, 396 (Nat.
Museum).

' Erlangen, 1787 ; Lloyd Library Reproduction Series, Cin-
cinnati, 1903. The first treatise in that department, and the
authority well into the nineteenth century.

8 Erlangen, 1787 — " Commonly regarded as the first work on
American geology." Merrill, Contributions to the History of
American Geology, Smithsonian Institution Report, 1904 (Nat.
Museum), p. 208.

ADVERTISEMENT VII

Historia Testudinum,9 based in large measure on notes
made in America or on correspondence with observers
there. In addition, Schoepf had put together a manu-
script descriptive of the birds of North America com-
ing under his observation ; which material was lost at
sea between Virginia and South Carolina or more
likely disappeared through negligence. Regarding the
trees of North America Dr. Schoepf remarks, ' : What
I saw every day and in the greatest numbers was trees,
but in my travels I could the more aptly suppress my
observations, the work of my esteemed friend Head
Forester Von Wangenheim,10 of Tilsit in Curland, hav-
ing shortly before appeared, containing everything
which it would be of use for the European reader to
know." Taken together with his travels, this was a
very considerable body of work entitling the author to
a place in our intellectual history.11

On setting out from Europe, as appears from the
Preface to the Beytr'dge, the young Schoepf had been
counselled by Schreber to have an eye to the geological
structure of the new world, Kalm having given an in-
sufficient report in that item. The advice was followed
to good purpose,12 but the observer was able to do more,

8 Erlangen, 1793-1801 — " One of the earliest monographs of
the Testudinata." Goode, loc. cit. cf. Reisc, &c., I, 382-386;
II, 440-444-

10G6ttingen, 1787.

11 Bibliography in Meusel, Lexikon der vom Jahre 1750 bis
1800 verstorbenen Teutschen Schriftsteller, XII (1812), 364.
cf. Bock, Sammlung von Bildnissen gelehrter Manner. Niirn-
berg, 1791-1798, XV (1795) — Portrait, bibliography, and auto-
biographical material.

12 cf. George Huntington Williams, Bull. Geol. Soc. Am., V

, 591-593 — "An excellent but now almost forgotten

VIII ADVERTISEMENT

and fortunately had the opportunity : he returned with
full memoranda which are of interest today. Schoepf
could talk to a member of Congress about his crops or
his mines and come away with a very good idea of the
man himself and his relations to the commonwealth.
His work seems modern because he had a sense of
humor, had trained himself to think, and also because
the country he observed is still new. We learn that
' conservation ' has for a long time been waiting for a
chance.

Dr. Schoepf came with the other Allied Army. That
was, in some respects, a different time. Authority was
high, and patronage might show very excellent results.
The work is inscribed to

Christian Friedrich Karl Alexander, Marggraf zu
Brandenburg :

Durchlauchtigster Marggraf !
Gnadigster Fiirst und Herr!

The dictionary found most useful has been John Ebers's —
" A new Hand-Dictionary of the English Language for Ger-
mans and of the German Language for Englishmen. Elabo-
rated by John Ebers, Professor at Halle." Halle, 1819 — Pref-
aces dated 1800 and 1801. Dobson's Philadelphia edition of
"The Encyclopaedia" (1798-), and the American edition of
Rees (Philadelphia, 1810-) are recommended.

work [Beytrdge &c] on the geology and mineralogy of the
United States, south of New York, published at a time when
Werner and Hutton were just beginning to be heard in the
scientific circles of Europe. Many of the conclusions set forth
are in the main those now generally accepted, and bear witness
to the acumen of their author."

Thomas H. Atherton, Wilkes-

Barre, Pennsylvania
Baker & Taylor Company, New

York

C. H. Barr, Lancaster, Penn-
sylvania

John Hampden Chamberlayne,
Richmond, Virginia

E. I. Devitt, S. J., Washing-
ton

Eichelberger Book Company,
Baltimore

H. W. Fisher and Company,
Philadelphia

Worthington C. Ford, Boston,
Massachusetts

Granville Henry, Nazareth,
Pennsylvania

Hall N. Jackson, Cincinnati,
Ohio, 4 copies

John W. Jordan, Philadelphia

Judge Charles I. Landis, Lan-
caster, Pennsylvania

Charles E. Lauriat Company,
Boston

Dr. John Uri Lloyd, Cincinnati,
Ohio

A. C. McClurg and Company,
Chicago

H. R. Mcllwaine, Ph. D., Rich-
mond, Virginia

D. L. Passavant, Zelienople,
Pennsylvania, 5 copies

Preston and Rounds Company,
Providence, Rhode Island

Samuel N. Rhoads, Phila-
delphia, 10 copies

G. M. Robeson, Farmville,
Virginia

J. G. Rosengarten, Philadelphia

Scranton, Wetmore and Com-
pany, Rochester, New York

St. Louis News Company, St.
Louis, 5 copies

Torch Press Book Shop, Cedar
Rapids, Iowa, 10 copies

Major A. R. Venable, Hamp-
den-Sidney, Virginia

George Wahr, Ann Arbor,
Michigan

Rev. Asa Watkins, Bristol,
Tennessee

Academy of Natural Sciences

of Philadelphia

American Philosophical Society
Berkshire Athenaeum, Pitts-
field, Massachusetts
Boston Medical Library
Bowdoin College Library
Buffalo Public Library
Carnegie Free Library, Alle-
gheny, Pennsylvania
Carnegie Library of Pittsburgh
Cincinnati Public Library
Columbia University Library
Essex Institute, Salem, Massa-
chusetts

Hampden-Sidney College
Library

SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES

Illinois State Library

Illinois State Historical Library

Indiana State Library

Jersey City Public Library

John Carter Brown Library

John Crerar Library

Johns Hopkins University

Library

Lafayette College Library
Lancaster County Historical

Society, Pennsylvania
Lehigh University Library
Library Company of Philadel-
phia

Maryland Historical Society
Massachusetts Agricultural Col-
lege

Massachusetts Historical So-
ciety

Minnesota Historical Society
New York Historical Society
North Carolina State Library
Northwestern University Li-
brary

Pennsylvania Historical Society
Pennsylvania State Library
Princeton University Library
Richmond College Library
Smithsonian Institution
Society for the History of the

Germans in Maryland
Surgeon General's Library

(Army)

United States Military Academy
University of California Library
University of Cincinnati Library
University of Georgia Library
University of Indiana Library
University of Nebraska Library
Virginia State Library
Wilmington Institute Free

Library

Wyoming Historical and Geo-
logical Society of Wilkes-
Barre
Yale University Library

preface

TTJTT was to be expected that the last war in America
11 would be the occasion of sundry descriptions of
travels, so many and divers Europeans having
been thus afforded opportunity to pass through and
examine the most widely distant parts of that country.
But so far this has not been the case. Only the follow-
ing are known to me, as having appeared since that
time :

New Travels through North America, in a Series of Letters,
exhibiting the history of the victorious Campaign of the
Allied Armies, under his Excellency General Washington
and the Count de Rochambeau, in the year 1781 ; inter-
spersed with political and philosophical Observations,
upon the Genius, temper & customs of the Americans &c.
Translated from the Original of the Abbe ROBIN, one
of the Chaplains to the French Army in America. Printed
by Robert Bell, 1783. — 8°. no pages.

Besides observations thrown in, touching the relig-
ion, character, and manner of life of the inhabitants,
contains chiefly the history of the march of the French
army from Rhode Island to Yorktown in Virginia, and
of the siege of that place ; the articles of capitulation ;
accounts of the unfortunate expedition of General
Burgoyne, 1777; and an Appendix, letters of General
Washington and Lord Cornwallis.

2 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

A Tour in the United States of America &c. By J. F. D.
Smyth, Esqu., London 1784. Vol. I. 400 pages. Vol. II.
455 pages, large 8.

The author had taken up residence in America, and
both before the outbreaking of the war and during the
war travelled through the southern and middle prov-
inces, as well as the regions beyond the mountains ;
his accounts and descriptions, so far as I could judge
from a brief examination of the book, are good and
just, but too much interwoven with the particulars of
his own history, the persecutions and oppressions suf-
fered by him as a Loyalist, with other events having
reference to those times.

Voyages de M. le Marquis de Chastellux dans 1'Amerique
Septentrionale, dans les annees 1780. 81. & 82. Paris 1786.
T. I. 390 pages & T. II. 362 pages, large 8; with several
maps and views.

Of this work I have seen only an abridgment, under
the title : Voyage de Mr. le Chev. de Chastell. en
Amerique, which has appeared without indication as to
where printed, in 12 mo. 191 pages, with the date 1785.
The above title of the larger work I take from the
Getting. Anzcigen, art. 199, 1787, where several cir-
cumstances are remarked that do not help support the
credibility and exactness of observation of the Marquis.
Not to repeat the criticisms given there of the mang-
ling of German and English names, it is astonishing
how he seems to have been altogether careless even
with French names, calling the painter du Sumitiere,
(of whom I have also made mention, p. 85), Cimetiere.

PREFACE 3

— Whether this was a blunder or was purposely done
so as to bring out a bon mot, he rendered himself sus-
pect, and one will easily form an opinion how far to
trust such a man in his observations of natural history.
Immediately after the war, and almost at the same
time the united American states were visited by sundry
learned and intelligent men who had come over from
Europe with the express design of travelling through
the country. Germans, Swedes, French, English,
Dutch, and even an Italian conte, were present to muse
upon the wonders of the new states, and they journeyed
almost always with pen or black-lead in their hands.
But now, after the passage of several years, none of
them has been pleased to give to the public the results
of his observations, if I except the brief reports of Pro-
fessor Martyr, in the Physikal. Arbeiten der eintracht-
igen Freunde in Wien (ist and 3rd year, and 2nd year,
ist quarter). It may be that the others were deceived
in their expectations, not finding memorable things in
the hoped-for plenitude, and have done what I perhaps
should have done, in this respect not less unfortunate
than they, and more restricted in the items of time, cir-
cumstances, conveniences and helps. But since it may
be better to have a few contributions, rather than none,
to a knowledge of the latest status of these parts, I ven-
ture now, (only since I see that none of the travellers
mentioned has cared to forestall me), to give the dry
observations which offered themselves to me incident-
ally during a journey through the United States under-
taken with a different purpose in view. I willingly ad-

4 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

mit that these notes are neither so complete nor of such
importance as I could wish, but it may easily be seen in
them that the putting-together of a book of travels was
not really my object. To be candid, the motive of my
journey was curiosity not altogether blameworthy, it
is to be hoped. From June 1777 to July 1783 I had
lived in America without seeing more than the small
Rhode-Island, York-Island, an inconsiderable part of
Long-Island, and for a very brief space the narrow
compass of the city of Philadelphia, so that strictly I
could hardly boast of having set foot on the main-land.
It would have been irksome to me, and likely to other
travellers as well, to be obliged to return to the old
world without taking with me, for my own satisfaction,
a somewhat more enlarged visual acquaintance with
the new. But at the same time, and especially, I wished
to extend in the interior of the country the collecting
of natural products I had begun on the coast but which,
by reason of the war, was restricted, and embarrassed
enough. However, I was considerably checked in my
purposes, the time allowed me for the journey falling
in the circumstances at a late season of the year, and
other unavoidable casualties rendering my hopes idle in
many respects, so that I was very much deceived in
my great expectations of examining the most remark-
able natural productions of the interior country. Here
as elsewhere, both plants and animals are little ready
to cast themselves in the way of a hurried traveller,
when, where and how he desires, he not seeking them
out and unwilling or unable to wait for them. I have

PREFACE 5

therefore designedly omitted to speak at length of
matters in which I have been able to bring forward
little or nothing that was new. What I saw daily and
oftenest was — trees ; and what observations I made
under that head I could the more aptly suppress in my
travels, the recently issued work of my esteemed friend
Head-Forester von Wangenheim of Tilsit in Curland
containing everything on that subject which can be of
use to the European reader.

Of certain other subjects which lay nearer the pur-
pose of my journey, I have already given account, in
the Verzeichnis der nordamerikanischen Heilmittel,
(for which I had opportunity on this journey to as-
semble much important information), and in the Bey-
trage zur mineralogischen Kenntnis des ostlichen
Theils von Nordamerika. As confirmation of the de-
scription given in these contributions, of the American
mountains lying to the south of the Hudson river, I
have been pleased to find in the G fitting. Anzeigen
(Art. 176, 1787) a notice of Mr. Belknap's description
of the White Mountains in New Hampshire, (inserted
in the 2nd volume of the Transact, of the Americ.
Society at Philadelphia) ; this exactly fits with my own,
and confirms my suppositions regarding the continued,
regular, uniform course of the mountains through those
regions not visited by me.

In the item of fishes, what I had leisure and oppor-
tunity to observe in the North American waters, partly
on this journey and partly before, will be given in a
separate treatise, to appear in the Schrift. der Berliner
Gesellschaft Naturforschender Freunde.

6 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

I should likewise be able to give numerous descriptions
(exact as I could make them) of almost all the North
American birds that came to my notice, were it not that
I must deplore the loss of the manuscripts which, with
certain other packages, I had left at Manchester in
Virginia in the hands of an obliging fellow-country-
man, Mr. Riibsaamen, to be despatched to Charleston
— but nothing more thus far has been heard of them.

For the rest, these sheets will not please him who, in
books of travel, has been used to expect astonishing
adventures or wonderful phenomena — splendid palaces,
beautiful gardens, great libraries, rich art-collections,
collections of natural curiosities, antiquities &c., fab-
ricks, and other public institutions worth the seeing, all
of which help fill the note-books of travellers in older
settled countries, — these as yet are not to be found in
America, and one might perhaps, not to give the matter
a bad turn, tell as much of what America is not as of
what it is. But I have been content to put down, aside
from the chief objects of my journey, what I saw and
learned, and if it is no more, it is not my fault. I relate
simple facts and give dry observations, without seek-
ing to embellish them by the refinements of speculation
or by edifying considerations. I shall therefore hardly
be charged with having industriously described the
Columbian States, (where I am persuaded also that
many people live very happily) merely in their bright-
est aspects; as a critic has guessed, not unreasonably,
of the author of the famous Lettres d'nn Cultivateur
Americain, noticing the latest Paris edition of that

PREFACE 7

book, which however contains much that is beautiful
and true. If perhaps there may be asked of me more
detailed and circumstantial information regarding
moral, political, ceconomical, and mercantile conditions,
I can offer apology for incompleteness in no other way
but that these subjects were not precisely a part of my
plan, and that the period of my travels — immediately
after the war — when judgments and opinions were still
uncertain, statistical accounts unreliable, and peace and
order, especially, had not yet been firmly re-established,
the time, I say, was not the most opportune for these
things. Besides, there is no lack of writings giving
trustworthy information in the items of the agriculture,
trade, exports and imports of the former British col-
onies— but the changes arisen in these matters during
and since the war were as yet hardly to be determined
with certainty. Just as during the period of my
journey all manner of plans were making and institu-
tions beginning, and everything was still in a ferment,
so it will be easily understood if certain of my intelli-
gence comes too late and appears superfluous because
of newly hit-upon changes — what I have learned in
this respect I have made note of, and the rest may serve
to show how matters were at that time.

I hope I shall not bring upon myself by any of my
remarks the reproach of having blamed without reason
or maliciously, and where there may be the appearance
of such a thing it should be known that every thing I
say here I myself gave expression to in America, where
freedom of thought, of speech, and of the pen are

8 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

privileges universally allowed ; moreover I am confi-
dent that I have not said many things, have left the
reader to form his own judgments, where citizens of
the United States themselves would freely and without
hesitation have given their opinions.

Regarding many things not touched upon by me, in-
formation may be had from Professor Kalm's report of
his travels, whose relations I have everywhere found to
be true and exact, so far as I have examined the same
territory. The travels of this learned and diligent ob-
server (as much of them as have been published) hav-
ing been from Philadelphia and New York towards the
North, and mine being from thence towards the West
and the South, the two may be placed together — in that
respect only — giving as they do a continuous survey
of the state of the eastern half of North America, with
the exception of the New England and Nova Scotian
provinces.

The reckoning in miles is the English throughout,
just as all the other measures and weights given, as
used in America, are the same as those customary in
England, and in consequence need no further expla-
nation.

The money-reckoning in the United States is vari-
ous ; throughout, the pound is 20 shillings and the shill-
ing 12 pence, but these by the different currency stand-
ards are of different values, and the best comparison is
to be had from the value of Spanish dollars or piastres
and of English guineas.

PREFACE 9

The worth of . f .

Spanish dollar English guinea

In New Hampshire, Con-

necticut, Rhode Island,

and Virginia ......... 6 shillings I Pd. 8 sh.

New York and North

Carolina ............. 8 shillings I Pd. 17 sh.

New Jersey, Pensylvania,

Maryland, and Dela-

ware ................ 7 sh. 6 pence i Pd. 15 sh.

South Carolina ........ I Pd. 12 sh. 6 pence 7 Pd. 7 sh.

Georgia ................ 5 shillings I Pd. 3 sh.

But since the war, in the last two states, the basis has
mostly been sterling, the dollar at 4 shillings 6 pence,
and the guinea at 21 shillings.

Accordingly a pound current is in Virginia &c. =
$l/4 Span, dollars ; in New York &c. — 2l/2 Span, dol-
lars ; in Pensylvania &c. = 2% Span, dollars.

I should mention also that of the so-called carnivo-
rous elephants, (p. 266 if. of my Travels), beautiful
representations of which are given in Buffon's Epoques
de la Nature, remains have been found outside America,
in other parts of the old world. In Germany a molar
tooth, kept in the cabinet at Erlangen, has been found
very similar to that coming from the Ohio; and there
lies before me a drawing of bones and teeth which were
discovered in the year 1762 at Gruebberg between Un-
tergrafensee and the Gruebmiihle, near Reichenberg in
Bavaria, the figure showing molar teeth altogether like
the American, with partly sharp, partly worn apo-
physes.

And it is worthy of remark that the complaints made

10 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

by the country people of several regions (p. 213, 228),
that new-made dams and mill-ponds are the cause of
intermittent fevers, less frequent previously in those
parts, have been confirmed by Dr. Rush in a treatise of
his to be found in the 2nd volume of the American
Philosophical Transactions (vid. Gott. Anzeigen, art.
176, 1787) who likewise believes the causes of the in-
creasing bilious and intermittent fevers in Pensylvania
to be the greater number of mill-ponds, the clearing-
off of the forests which had been a protection against
the exhalations from standing water, and the far more
frequent rains of the past few years.

Bayreuth, nth January 1788.

3foitrneg Cftrougft

1783

CRANQUILLITY was now in some sort re-es-
tablished in America. Ratification of the Peace
had not yet come over from Europe, but under
the guarantees of the provisional truce, there was al-
ready a certain intercourse opened between New York
and the United States. Business and curiosity tempted
a number of travellers from the one side and from the
other. For near seven years I had been confined to
•the narrow compass of sundry British garrisons along
the coast, unable until now to carry out my desire of
seeing somewhat of the interior of the country. The
German troops were embarking gradually for the re-
turn voyage ; and having received permission, July 22
I took leave of my countrymen at New York, in order
to visit the united American states, now beginning to
be of consequence.

In the evening at five o'clock, with Mr. Hairs, an
Englishman who accompanied me for a part of the
journey, I went on board a Petty- Auger,* from and

* Petty-Augers are a sort of craft, used to any extent only
in New York waters, where they were introduced by the Hol-
landers. They are half-decked boats, of five to ten tons
burthen, flat-bottomed, so as to be navigable in shallow water.
Flat-built, they would in the open bay, with wind, waves, and
currents, make too much leeway unless counter-equipped — on
each side a large board, oval-shaped, which may be let down

12 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

for Elizabethtown in New Jersey. As we were on the
point of pushing off, our Jersey skipper was threatened
with the necessity of taking with him a lading of blows
consigned by a man of the King's party who fancied
the skipper had injured him in Elizabethtown. The
skipper defended himself by keeping to his cabin, with
his musket cocked. The matter was for the time ad-
justed and we got loose, but not without fear, and the
risk, at least of experiencing on the other shore some-
thing of the law of reprisals. We were however hardly
under sail before the skipper began to assure us of
everything agreeable on the part of his countrymen,
and in particular promised us great respect in our ca-
pacity of British officers, which he no doubt took us to
be. I mention this little circumstance because our
friends in New York were uneasy for fear we should
meet with a sorry reception among the still irritated
American populace and on that account sought to dis-
courage us from the journey. The sort of evil entreat-
ment with which they alarmed us in New York was
attributed in prospect solely to such Tories as had ven-
tured again among their former countrymen and were
by them recognized. Pride often overcomes a desire
of vengeance ; at least that was my explanation of the
skipper's over-busy courtesies, shown us after his own
rude experience in a British garrison at the hands of
British subjects.

or taken up at the side of the vessel. This board is let down
against the wind (on the lee side) ; the so-called Lee-board,
then, hangs in the water several feet below the bottom of the
vessel, and the greater resistance so gained balances the effect
of the side wind which would otherwise tend to bring the
vessel too much out of its course.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 13

It was one of the warmest days. Light breezes and
calm lengthened our short way. As we moved slowly
over the Hudson and through the bay towards Staten
Island, there was opportunity to enjoy for the last time
the splendid view which is offered at a certain point
between the city and the islands. The Hudson opens
for several miles in a direct north line ; its fine breadth,
its high, precipitous banks adorned with bush and
forest growth, and a number of vessels at the time busy
gave to the stream a magnificent appearance which
bore a softer coloring by reason of the now sinking sun.

Two little islands standing in the midst of the bay
towards Jersey, however inconsiderable formerly, with-
in a brief space have become trading places of import-
ance. While traffic between the United States and
New York was still not entirely free and unrestricted,
the Americans grew accustomed to take from these
islands what they hanker after yet and will always —
English goods, which had been secretly expedited from
the city.

One of these islands, from its excellent oyster bank,
has gained the name of Oyster Island, formerly so
rich in oysters that from it alone the city and all the
country around could be supplied with this pleasant
provender by which a great part of the poorer people
lived. But for several years the most and the best
oysters have been brought from the southern coast of
Long Island, from Blue Point, where (as formerly
around Oyster Island) the oyster is found in extensive
beds, lying one above the other and many feet deep.
Strong, curved, iron rakes are used to fetch up the
fruit which never lies deep, preferring the shallower
but somewhat rocky or stony spots. Oysters may be

14 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

had in more or less quantity everywhere around New
York ; the reason is not known, but they are not every-
where of an equal size or pleasantness of taste. The
salt water product is always better than that which is
deposited in the fresher water near streams. Often
oysters climb so high on the beach, clinging to stones,
roots of trees, &c. that at ebb-tide they are for many
hours exposed quite to the air. The oyster of the rocky
shores of the northern parts of America is universally
larger and better than what is produced on the more
sandy coasts south of New York. A method of fatten-
ing oysters is resorted to here and there — they keep
them in cellars and set them up in sand, frequently
sprinkling with salt water. There was formerly a law
prohibiting oyster-fishery during the months of May,
June, July, and August, regarded as the spawning
season, when the eggs appear, small, thin scales, de-
posited on stones or on the shells of the older oysters.
During the war this restriction was not observed.
Quite apart from any regulation in the interest of the
oyster banks, oysters during the hot season have a
worse taste, are more slimy, and decay so rapidly that
any taken then must be largely lost.

Oysters are eaten raw, broiled on coals, baked with
fat and in other ways ; they are also dried, pickled,
boiled in vinegar, and so preserved and transported.
The American edible oyster is in form quite unlike the
oval-shaped European, being oblong and almost
tongue-shaped. In America one finds shells from eight
to ten inches and more in length, and from three to
four inches wide tapering somewhat towards the hinge,
generally straight, but often a trifle curved; the ex-
terior of the shell, which is of a layer formation, is

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 15

rougher than the European. It happens not seldom
that one oyster makes several mouthfuls. At times
incomplete pearls are found in the shells. In certain
regions the shell now and then has a diseased appear-
ance, whitish, half-transparent, and glassy, but such
oysters are eaten in quantities and without injury. In-
deed, people of a sickly, weak habit of body find that
fresh oysters are good for them, and here as well as in
Europe Tulpius's + oyster-cure is often prescribed. In
York they burn for lime the shells of oysters, clams,
and other muscles, because there is no limestone in that
region. Lime prepared in this way makes an especially
good white-wash, but for building it has not the best
lasting qualities.

Oysters, Clams (Venus mercenaries L.), and Pissers
(Myae species)* are the most usual shell-fish brought
to market in this region. In the country the range of
choice is wider, and a sort of cockle [Jakobsmuschel]
is there eaten. Of the Buccina a rather large and a
very small variety are relished by a few fastidious
palates. Even the King-crab (monoculus Polyphemus
L.)f is not despised by some of the inhabitants.

* Probably Mya arenaria L. — They live on the beach and
are betrayed by a round opening in the sand. If slightly
pressed they spurt with considerable energy a clear stream of
water. Their flesh is coarse and tough, but makes a strong,
nutritious broth.

f These, from their shape, are commonly called Horseshoe-
crabs, and are found on this coast only in the summer months.
Often left on the beach by the tide, they are sought after
greedily by hogs, which thrive on them. As a matter of fact
they belong among the larger insects. Some of them, includ-
ing the tail, are three feet and more in length. They live
several days out of the water.

16 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Of the crayfish order, these waters furnish for the
kitchen only the Lobster, (Cancer Gammarus L.), and
a Crab. Before the war lobsters were numerous, but
for some years have been seldom seen. The fisher-
men's explanation was that the lobster + was disturbed
by the many ships' anchors and frightened by the can-
non fire. How much ground there was for this theory
I will not attempt to say, but it is true that since the
war lobsters have this year shown themselves for the
first time in the Sound.*

We were compelled to spend a few hours of the
night at Staten Island, in order to catch the flood tide,
for light winds had brought us on so slowly that the
ebb from Newark Bay was already against us. The
tide coming in by Sandy Hook finds several channels
of varying length and breadth in which to distribute
itself; in consequence the rise and fall take place at
different times in the East River, the Hudson, and
Newark Bay, although each of these is filled and
emptied through the same channel.

The distance between York Island and Staten Island
is scarcely more than nine English miles. Staten Island
and the west end of Long Island are separated by a
channel only three miles wide at a point called the
Narrows, which is the chief entrance for ships coming
to York. The channel between the island and East
Jersey is of varying width, but navigable only for
smaller craft. Staten Island is sixteen miles long and

* Elsewhere they change their habitat with the season ; in
Sweden they are found at midsummer (um Johannis) six
fathom deep, in July at a depth of from eight to ten fathoms,
and later in the autumn at a depth of fourteen or fifteen
fathoms.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 17

from eight to eleven miles wide ; the northern part is
hilly and stony, the land becoming flat and sandy to-
wards the south, similar in character to that portion of
Long Island lying opposite. Staten Island forms a
county of the province of New York, called Richmond,
which is the name of the village in the midst of the
island. Free entrance into the harbor of New York
depends upon the possession of this island, since the
harbor may be completely covered by works placed on
the steep hills near the Narrows. Further than this,
Staten Island is to be distinguished in nothing from the
neighboring country. In the morning at two o'clock
we arrived at Elizabethtown Point in Jersey, a prom-
ontory where vessels coming from York tie up. The
whole region is low, salt-marsh land exposed to the in-
flow of sea water. In summer such districts grow
somewhat more dry, and in addition the effect of broad,
deep ditches is considerable. In the dry season these
salt-marshes go by the name of salt-meadows, but
produce only a short hay, coarse and stiff, for the
most part rush, the usual meadow grasses not growing
on such lands. Horses do not like this hay, and the
milk of cows eating it rapidly sours. There is, how-
ever, one variety of salt-meadow grass, to wit Juncus
bulbosus L., known as Blackgrass and the best forage
for cattle. This is seldom sown, although the use of it
would make the handling of such tracts very profitable.
Surrounded by millions of Musquetoes, (Culex
pipiens L.), we were obliged to spend the time until
daybreak on the deck of the little vessel. These marshy
coasts are the favorite sojourning places of musquetoes,
more than usually numerous this year as a result of
moist and rainy weather, and grown to an unusual
2

18 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

size. Whoever has made the acquaintance of these
small enemies of the nights' rest will know that the
buzzing of a few of them is sufficient to banish sleep
for hours. I had covered myself with a cloak and a
thick sail, and the night being extremely warm I suf-
fered as in a perfect sweat-bath, but the musquetoes
found their way through. The complete stillness of
the night gave them liberty to swarm about at will, for
in windy weather they do not appear, and when high,
cold winds set in from the northwest such regions as
these are for a time swept of musquetoes, either be-
numbed by the cold or carried out to sea.

After daybreak we were taken to the house of the
man who owns the ferry, the only ferry thereabouts, a
few hundred yards from the landing place but not be-
yond the territory of the musquetoes. Before the door
stood a great vat, in which a wet-wood fire was kindled ;
the musquetoes were kept off by the smoke in which
the people of the place were making themselves com-
fortable. The owner of the ferry was a Doctor, no less,
and admitted with the greatest candor that he had
chosen such an infernal situation solely with the praise-
worthy design of making, that is gaining, money.

At this place I made the acquaintance of an Ameri-
can Captain. The day before, on his way to New York,
he had been arrested at Staten Island by a young
British officer, roughly handled and sent back because
he had no pass to show from the Governor of New
York. He was telling his story to the company in the
smoke, which had by degrees become more numerous,
and there was anger and vengeance in his words and
gestures. I found myself in a similar position, the
other way about; I was now in the jurisdiction of the

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 19

United States without permit from them. So I turned
to this irritated American, and without circumlocution
told him how I had come from the English army, like
him had no pass from one side or the other, intended
to travel through the country, hoped I should meet with
no difficulties, and so forth. The answer which I was
looking for followed. The Captain seized with pleas-
ure the opportunity which I offered him to show him-
self magnanimous. He volunteered to take me to his
Excellency Mr. Livingstone, the Governor of New
Jersey, and went with me to his country-seat in the
neighborhood of Elizabethtown. However, we had
not the pleasure of finding the Governor at home, which
I the more regretted because my companion had taken
trouble on the way to give me a high opinion of the
man with the noble Roman nose (for that was the
chief ground of his argument). Instead, I was taken
before certain other officers and furnished with a letter
of recommendation to a member of the Congress, near
Princetown. Meanwhile, I regarded this unexpectedly
polite behavior as a good omen, causing me to hope for
pleasant treatment farther on, and in this I was not
deceived.

Elizabethtown is a market town of middling size
which to be sure has no particularly large trade, but on
account of the passing between Philadelphia and York
many strangers are to be seen in the place. Oppor-
tunity was afforded us here of seeing a female opas-
sum with four young, which had recently been caught
in the neighborhood. It is remarkable that these ani-
mals are found no farther north than this, and never
on the east shore of the Hudson. Only in recent years
have they been seen this side the Delaware in Jersey ;

20 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

they crossed that stream on the ice, it is probable, for
they are said not to swim. In a similar manner these
animals, intended originally for the warmer provinces
only, might find their way still farther north, where it
is true they would miss even more their favorite food,
the fruit of the Persimon (Diospyros virginiana L.).
It is commonly believed in America that the false bag
of the female is a matrix as well, although there is
ample proof to the contrary. It is the fact, however,
that the young are produced very small and unformed,
and sustain themselves in the bag through the nipples
there found. It is claimed that the young of the opas-
sum have been observed as small as a large bean.*

When the greatest heat of the day was over, we set
out towards evening on the road to Brunswick. Five
miles from Elizabethtown we came to Bridgetown, a
neat little place on the Rariton river, where I visited
the father of one of my American friends. He, as one
of the King's party, had been obliged to leave his
former residence in Jersey and come to Bridgetown
because he expected and found more quiet in a place
inhabited chiefly by Quakers, who seek to do good to
every man or at the least make no use of opportunities
to do evil. The Rariton at Bridgetown is still an
inconsiderable stream, but large enough to float un-
laden vessels, built in the neighborhood, of ten to thirty
tons. The shipwrights do not restrict themselves to
the banks of the stream but set up the framework be-
fore their dwellings, perhaps a mile or two from the
river, and bring the finished skeleton to the waterside

* This fact among others was stated to me by Mr. Forster,
a skilful anatomist and surgeon in the English army.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 21

on rollers, oxen hitched before, which animals are much
used in this region for draught. We passed on through
a very pleasant country of low hills, and already be-
gan to encounter the red soil of Jersey, known gener-
ally by that name in America. On the surface this ap-
pears to be a weathered ferruginous clayey-slate *
showing certain veins. Farm and manor-houses were
numerous on the road, in appearance kept in good
order, and bearing evidences of attention and industry,
more so indeed than we had been accustomed to see
about York and on Long Island. Mr. Morgan who
formerly spent much time, more to the north, as a land
surveyor assured us that he had often seen dogs after
baiting hedgehogs stuck through, muzzle and ears,
with the quills of those beasts, and that the hedgehog
it is believed has the faculty of looseing its quills in
emergencies, but that it is not true, as asserted, that the
beast can shoot quills forth at distant objects. On
account of their exceeding smoothness and the force
drawing together the wounded parts both in men and
animals, the hedgehog quills, it has been observed, find
deep lodgment in the cellular tissue, and often must be
taken out with the knife.

From Bridgetown to Brunswick it is 16 miles over
a gentle succession of pleasant valleys and hills.
Everywhere a rather vivid green adorns the soil, which
in this region for the most part of the year presents a

* Vid. Kalm. Reise. Ft 2, p. 367 who calls this soil red lime-
stone very much resembling that found in Sweden at Kinne-
kulle and probably marmor stratarium of Linnaeus. But this
Jersey soil does not effervesce under acids, and does not con-
tain the petrificata copiosissima of Linnaeus' description; and
besides the surface is not harder than the subsoil.

22 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

dark red appearance. But this is hardly a distinguish-
ing mark of Jersey, for it is pretty generally observed,
even in other countries, that grass on red soils has a
particularly green color.

Brunswick. Here for the first time we underwent a
general questioning — on the part of the landlord at the
Queen. There are no people in the world of more
curiosity than the inn-keepers throughout the greater
part of America. It is told of Dr. Franklin (but it
may have been anyone else) + how on a journey trom
Boston to Philadelphia, he became so tired of the in-
sidious tavern-catechism, that on arriving at an inn he
had the whole family assembled and made it clear to
them once for all what his name was, where he lived,
what he did for a living, where he was going, and then
asked that no further queries be put. At the inn in
Brunswick nothing was to be had until it was known
where we came from and whither we were bound ; I
asked for a room and the woman of the house bade me
in a most indifferent manner to be patient ; she was
unwilling for us to escape too soon from the curiosity
of her husband, who in the meantime was looking up
slippers of every calibre, kept for the traveller's con-
venience.

Brunswick is pleasantly and advantageously situ-
ated. The Rariton even here reaches no great breadth,
probably ten to fifteen feet ; but with the help of the
tide, which ascends two miles above the town, tolerably
large vessels come up, and in former years the place
has exported directly to the West Indies flour, bread,
Indian corn, timber, and the like. Brunswick therefore
has great hopes of renewing its trade, since at one time
the town carried on more business than Perth-Amboy,

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 23

which is really the port and capital of East Jersey, lying
ten miles farther down at the mouth of the Rariton, a
safe and commodious bay where notwithstanding few
ships put in. Recently when a peace was looked for,
a company of English merchants offered to employ a
considerable capital, sufficient for the purpose, in re-
establishing the trade of Amboy ; by reason of untimely
animosities the project was abandoned, and Amboy *
will have, as before, only an insignificant traffic with
foreign ports. New York on the one side and Phila-
delphia on the other long since drew to themselves the
trade of Jersey, and without great exertions and the
capital assistance of rich merchants, this established
course of trade is not to be altered. The produce of
Jersey is the same as that of both the adjoining prov-
inces, and the Jerseymen find a better market and
longer credit in those two cities than in their own.
Thus, free to choose the best markets, it will not likely
happen that the people will deny themselves. In
Brunswick the royal barracks still stand, for which
there are no soldiers, and an English church remains
for which there is no congregation. The Quaker meet-
ing-house and the market-house, as well as many other
buildings, are in ruins. This section of Jersey, and
especially Princeton, Woodbridge, Newark, Bergen,
Elizabethtown, &c. suffered the most during the war,
from the troops of both parties.

From Brunswick we proceeded down the Rariton
through an incomparable landscape. A still stream,

* Latterly the State of Jersey has declared this a free port
and flatters itself that in this way the trade of Amboy will be
the more easily revived, since the neighboring states have
placed heavy taxes on shipping.

24 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

fairly broad ; narrow reaches of green bottom-land bor-
dered by gentle hills ; neat country-houses scattered here
and there, the buildings forsaken and half-ruined ; and
as background for the whole, a range of mountains.
Colonel Steward's house, on a rising ground by the
road, like so many others in America is thinly built of
wood, but after a tasteful plan. The construction of a
house, if the appearance is pleasing, need not worry
the traveller, since it is the owner who must contrive
how to offset the rude northwester streaming through,
and making cold quarters for winter.

Two miles from Brunswick we again crossed the
Rariton, over a wooden bridge, and after a few miles
down that stream reached Boundbrook and Middle-
brook. The whole region about Brunswick consists
of a red earth, but towards the mountains the soil
changes. At Boundbrook we visited Dr. Griffith, a
practicing physician whose skill and upright character
made him free of the general persecution which other
royalists were exposed to.

Beyond Boundbrook appears the first of those chains
of rather high mountains which in Jersey lie inwards
from the sea. In the company of Dr. Griffith and a few
other gentlemen we made an excursion towards the
mountain country where formerly Captain Mosengail
and Mr. Riibsaamen had establishments for smelting
copper, the first in America. In this region the stone
is a species of dense, grey, quarrystone, very similar
to that used in New York for tombstones. The road to
the old smelting-house is through a wide gap in the
first chain of mountains, the range being made up of
several chains one behind the other. Here, as farther
on in the winding valley, I saw what I took to be sure

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 25

marks of powerful dislocations at one time sustained.
Stones appeared as if pulled apart and again cemented
together. In other places the declivities seemed as it
were composed of plates lying one over the other but
fast bound together.*

In this narrow valley we were unspeakably oppressed
by the heat and the company insisted on returning,
earlier than I should have liked. At the same time,
in Dr. Griffith's house, the thermometer stood 94° Fahr.
in the shade, and I am convinced that in the valley at
midday and with no wind we suffered a temperature of
at least 120°. We all groaned for refreshment, but there
was nothing to be had except brook-water, and water
alone did not suffice.

The first chain of mountains in this region is dis-
tinguished from those lying behind it and running in

* Later, in Philadelphia, I came upon the Abbe Robin's New
Travels in North America. The Abbe came through Jersey
with the army of Count Rochambeau and cast a cursory
glance, only in Jersey, at the mountains. ' I was at the
trouble,' says he, 'to inspect the summits of the high moun-
tains (not high) of Jersey, and I find that they consist chiefly
of granite of several varieties, closely associated; aqua fortis
causes no effervescence — Mica is also found in great quantity
— If these mountains, which must be reckoned as primitive,
owed their origin to a vitreous mass, several thousand years
in that state, they would necessarily be homogeneous, but I
do not remember having seen here a mixture of various sub-
stances brought together in grains of regular figure and differ-
ing color. However that may be, these mountains must cer-
tainly have undergone a great revolution, for in many places
they have been burst apart, and fragments of appreciable size
are found at some distance from their first position.' The
Abbe had doubtless read shortly before the Epochs of Buffon
and attempted, but in vain, to discover traces of fire.

26 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the same direction by the name First Mountain, ex-
tending under this appellation from Newark, where
the stone is of a sort like granite, as far as Pluckamin,
about 28 English miles, a country richly supplied with
copper. Van Horn's mine has more than once been
profitably worked. The ore is red (Ziegelerz), flecked
with grey, and often contains fibres of pure copper.
Duely worked and refined this ore yields, it is claimed,
from 60 to 65 Ib. the cwt. of the finest copper. The
veins run up from the southeast, (i. e. from the coast
inwards), to the mountains, and continue there rising
and falling, wave-fashion — like most superficial veins ;
but far on in the mountain the veins suddenly plunge
and are lost in water, so that these mines cannot in
the future be worked without low stopings. After
getting through the grey rock, in which the ore lies, a
red stone is encountered which extends to unexplorable
depths.

In the year 1772 the smelter near this mine was be-
gun, but on account of various difficulties, lack of a
suitable stone for the smelting-furnace and the proper
alloy, it was not until 1774 that work could be under-
taken with a reasonable hope of success. The owners
of the land and of the mine agreed to bear all expense
until the business should be self-sustaining at a clear
profit ; on the other hand, the condition was that the
managers, Messrs. Mosengail and Riibsaamen, should
take two thirds the income for their trouble in estab-
lishing and keeping up the smelter. Later the owners
ran short of money and credit, and the work was for
some time interrupted, but by a new arrangement was
again vigorously prosecuted. Then the need of skilled
workmen was felt, the raw copper not being saleable in

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 27

America unless first prepared in sheets under the ham-
mer for the use of the coppersmith. In former years
it had been necessary for such establishments to send
to England either the ore, (of no great value), or the
unrefined copper. On this basis the dealer gained very
much at the expense of the mine-owner. So rolling
machines of a nice construction were brought from
England, of a sort which could not be cast and fitted
in America. Such an apparatus (two smooth iron
rollers working horizontally) made it possible to get
out the copper with more convenience and expedition
than under the hammer. In a short time nearly four
tons of sheet copper were got ready for market, as
fine as any ever brought from Europe ; and by the use
of the roller it was found possible to prepare 2.^/2 tons
a week. The first specimens of this Jersey-made sheet-
copper were brought to Philadelphia precisely, at the
time when the Congress had passed the non-importa-
tion act of 1775 ; and there was so much pleasure taken
in this successful and really fine product of the country
that without any hesitation a price was offered 6d. in
the pound higher than for English sheets, quoted at 35.
8d. to 45. Pensylvan. Current. But the war coming
on, the work once more came to a stand ; the workmen
were scattered, and finally the establishment was burnt
by American troops, merely to get nails from the ashes.
The mine has since gone to ruin ; we made a search
for ore in the rubbish, but could find only a few insig-
nificant pieces.

On the same mountain, near Pluckamin, other mine-
prospectors at one time sunk a shaft, and followed up
a good vein of grey copper ore. But water swamped
the work, which was given over because there was no
inclination to install hydraulic machinery.

28 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

About 26 years ago another copper mine was opened
near Brunswick, in a hill consisting of the red soil
(red-shell) mentioned above, which from the color, it
was believed, must certainly be copper-bearing. A vein
located by the wand (ausgehender Gang) nearly four
inches wide was a sufficient guaranty, but it was found
that it fell away almost perpendicularly. Solid copper
was taken out in quantity, lying in a brown mould
containing copper as well. However, it was a low hill
and the Rariton was too near; the shaft filled with
water and could not be kept clear by a small hydraulic
apparatus. The owners became discouraged and gave
up the works, after taking out probably two tons,
mostly solid copper, at an outlay of more than 12,000
Pd. Current.

From Boundbrook we came, by way of a beautiful
plain, hard by the mountain where Washington's army
camped in 1779; and further through an extremely
well-cultivated region along the Millstone River which
falls into the Rariton but, a narrow stream, is not
navigable. These waters contain a multitude of fish,
pike, gold-fish, and suckers.* Formerly shad also, in
numberless schools, came high up this river ; but dams,
of which many have been built in recent years, keep
back the shad and contribute appreciably to the pro-
visioning of the inhabitants along the banks. In the
Rariton, however, a law compels millers to leave a 40-
yd. passage way over dams during the running of the

* Suckers are found also in the Delaware ; I have seen none
about York. They belong to the species carp. Forster + has
given the first exact description of them, from a specimen
caught in Hudson's bay, under the name cyprinus catostomus.
See Beytrdge zur Lander und Volkerkunde, III, 270.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 29

shad. These fish (Chi pea Alosa L.) are found in mill-
ions every spring in all the rivers north from Chesa-
peake Bay and the Delaware, ascending- high enough
to be certain of depositing their eggs in fresh water.
In the Hudson they follow the main channel and tribu-
taries for a distance of 150 miles from the coast. They
come, if the weather is mild, early in April ; cold
weather often holds them back until later ; but by the
end of April or the beginning of May, the mouths of
all the rivers are generally full of them. At this season
fishermen line the riverbanks, cast their seines with the
flush tide, and at times catch during a running several
hundred pounds' worth. The many thousands taken
(in all the rivers, inlets, and creeks) amount to a very
small part of the host, which apparently begins to be
diminished only when, far inland, the danger from nets
cannot so easily be escaped in the narrower and shal-
lower streams. That they are all caught is not to be
believed, although few are seen descending, and those
thin and often dead. They are, at their first coming,
pretty fat and fullbodied, and it is claimed that as they
ascend the better they grow to the taste. They are
sought after when the season is young, and the first to
appear are costly morsels, but as they become more
frequent are seen no longer at fastidious tables. They
are also salted * and with careful handling resemble

* Salted shad are exported to the West Indies as rations for
the negroes, but are not greatly in demand there on account
of the careless preparation. Herring appear on the coast
somewhat later than shad ; they are like the European herring
but come neither in as great numbers as shad nor do they
ascend the streams so far; they are caught and handled in the
same manner as shad.

30 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the herring' in taste ; and again, only superficially salted,
they are split and air-dried or smoked and so served at
respectable tea-tables.

Red soil and loam continued until we had passed the
Millstone River, by a bridge not far from Black-horse,
where the sandy loam began again such as is found
about York. In the tavern at Black-horse we found
quarters for the night, on a little slope near the river
not far from a mill and several other houses as little
worthy of remark. Our landlord was loquacious and
extremely occupied, and in truth a man could be no
otherwise who did as much. He told us, without any
boasting, how many different occupations he united in
his small person- ' I am a weaver, a shoemaker, farrier,
wheelwright, farmer, gardener, and when it can't be
helped, a soldier. I bake my bread, brew my beer, kill
my pigs ; I grind my axe and knives ; I built those stalls
and that shed there ; I am barber, leech, and doctor.'
(Tria juncta in uno, as everywhere in Germany.) The
man was everything, at no expense for license, and
could do anything, as indeed the countryman in
America generally can, himself supplying his own
wants in great part or wholly. From this man's house
we set out the following morning along the sandy banks
of the Millstone River and came, by a stone bridge, to
Rocky Hill which was not idly named. A few houses
stand upon and around the hill. The landscape, after
we got out of the red soil, was much less green and
agreeable, the woods rougher and the bottom lands
more broken, more like the soil of York and southern
Long Island, thin and unfruitful, that is. But there
met us everywhere a pleasant balsam odor, from the
great profusion of pennyroyal (Cunila pnlegioides L.)

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 31

which grew in the dryest places along the road, and
on these warm days, was the more perceptible.

It was surprising, just at midsummer, to find every-
where in the woods leaves red or deadened, particularly
on the oaks. To be sure, towards the first of the
month (July) there had been a hoar-frost, seen on little
standing ponds and moist spots, on the mountain near
Middlebrook and elsewhere.* But this cold could
not so easily kill oak leaves, certainly not particular
oak leaves. Others, with as little probability gave
thunderstorms and lightning as the reason ; but the
best explanation was that the leaves had been killed by
a sort of grasshopper which comes every seventeen
years and just this year had been conducting operations.

Rocky Hill once had the hope of being one of the rich-
est and most productive hills in America. Ignorant of its
value a countryman found a fragment of grey copper-
ore, of nearly 100 Ib. weight. This occurrence inspired
several people, who had informed themselves of the
worth of the copper discovered, to set about establish-
ing works in the liveliest spirit of enterprise. The
ground was leased, the mine to be opened was divided
into eight shares, miners were brought from England,
and everything necessary was undertaken with en-
thusiasm. When the first shaft was sunk they came
upon a rich stock-work of similar ore, but not quite so
pure. By this time the shares were selling at 1500 Pd.
Current. Through the manager's ignorance, or per-
haps with a set purpose to damage the owners, the ore
brought up was packed in barrels, and in less than four

* At the same time we had several very cold days in York,
and one morning the thermometer sank to 42° Fahr.

32 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

months 1 100 barrels were filled with what was denomi-
nated saleable ore. This was sent to England at a
dead expense of at least 1000 Pd. Sterling. The ore
was tested and appraised in London and the price fixed,
considering its quality as crude ore, was not sufficient
to pay the freight. The undertakers were alarmed at
this unwelcome news and the works were given over
at a great loss. Several of the workmen offered, at
their own cost, to take out the ore still on the holdings
and that in the shaft, (easily done) wash it, stamp it,
and send it to England. The venture proved an ex-
cellent one, but none the less this happier outcome
aroused no further interest among the speculative, and
the establishment was closed.

This is no doubt the most suitable place to insert the
remaining mineralogical observations which I assem-
bled in regard to Jersey and several other parts adja-
cent. It was not my intention to give much time to
the various mines and foundries of this province,
richly supplied with them, and until now worked with
especial industry. I had resolved to visit the more dis-
tant mountain country of Pensylvania and Virginia,
and since the summer was waning I could waste no
time.

Almost every hill and mountain of New Jersey con-
tains ore of some sort, at any rate ore has been found
in greater quantity in this province, as a consequence
of greater effort. A line drawn from about the mouth
of the Rariton to the lower falls of the Delaware marks
the south-eastern limit of the ore-bearing region, be-
yond which no further traces of ore have been observed
by me. Thence northwesterly a series of hills and
mountains make up the rest of the province, which lies

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 33

east of the Hudson and west of the Delaware. This
advantageous proximity to both rivers, with their trib-
utaries, adds no little to the convenient working of the
mines and transportation of the product.

One of the largest and most famous copper mines in
all North America was until recently that of the Schuy-
ler family, on Second River in Bergen county. The
metal was found associated with a good deal of sul-
phur and was therefore easily fusible. For forty years
and more these works were carried on to great advan-
tage, and from their productive yield a very numerous
family became well established, highly regarded, and
honored. The ore was of the grey variety, yielding with
good management 70-80 lb., and in one of the best
years as much as 90 lb. in the hundred weight. About
twenty years ago a fire-engine * was installed to control
the water. This had to be brought from England, and
when set up in running order had cost 10,000 Pd. Cur-
rent, but a few years later was itself destroyed by fire.
A second engine met the same fate, the owners were
somewhat thrown back by these misfortunes, and the
mine, overrun with water, could no longer be worked.
Mr. Hornblower, from county Cornwall in England,
(who was the manager of the mine), after these two
mishaps made a contract with the owners some twelve
years ago by which he paid down so much of the clear
income and received permission to knock out the hold-
ings, which yielded him from 7 to 15 tons pure copper
annually, sold in England at 70-80 Pd. sterling the
ton. Proof of how carelessly the ore had been worked.
The war put a stop even to these operations. When

* Pumps set in motion by the steam from boiling water.
8

.'.I TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the mine was first given up to the water, the abandoned
vein was six foot wide.

On the banks of the Delaware, about twenty miles
up from Trenton, a copper-bearing slate stratum comes
to the surface. The slate runs in beds of varying width
and is flecked with grey copper ore. A friend, whom
I must thank for these items, found that this ore merely
at the surface contained 36 Ib. copper in the hundred-
weight. By the accounts of people resident there, it
appears that similar spots are found higher up the
river.

The following list of several other noteworthy copper
and iron mines was given me at New York in May

17831

" Suckasunny Mine ; Iron ; in a hill on the east side

' of Suckasunny Plains, in Morris county, 13 miles

" from Morristown. The veins, like all in that region,

' run almost northeast to southwest, and are from six

" to twelve foot wide. Many thousand tons of bar iron

" have been made from this ore at sundry works. The

' ore is especially valued because of its easy flux and

' rich content.

"Hibernia or Horsepond Mine; Iron; 12 miles
" north of Morristown, in a high hill, a continuous
" vein which has been opened from the bottom to the
" top of the hill, and found to be from three to eleven
" foot wide. Only 600 paces off is the furnace attached
" to this mine, called Hibernia Furnace. The sow of
" this ore is good ; the iron excellent ; easily workable
' in the furnace.

Ogden's Mine, 16 miles northeast of Morristown.

The vein is only from one to five foot wide. Bar iron

from this ore worked in the furnace is better than

tt
tt

tt

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 35

u any other bar of the region. However, the mine does
" not advance so rapidly as the two mentioned above.

" Yale's Mine, 3 miles northeast of the Suckasunny,
" probably the continuation of that vein, 3-8 ft. wide.
" The ore fluxes well and, like the Suckasunny, is
" highly valued.

" Ogden's Newfoundland Mine, 25 miles north of
" Morristown, 7-20 ft. wide, also produces good iron.
" Pompton Bog, 20 miles northeast of Morristown
" A bog-ore lying perhaps 12 inches deep and dug out
" of the water. Under the ore there is a ferruginous
" sand. The surface layer having been removed, in
" about 20 years a new layer is formed, a precipitate
" from the water quite as good if not better than the
" first.

" James Young's copper mine, near Musknecuneck
" in the county of Sussex.

" Deacon Ogden's copper mine, near to the head-
" spring of the Wall-Kill, in the same county.

" Tennyke's copper mine, in the county of Somerset.
" Ritschall's copper mine in the county of Somerset.
" The two last are situated on the southeast side of
" First Mountain, three miles beyond Boundbrook
" and Quibbletown, on the same ridge (a little to the
" north) as Pluckamin, Bluehill, and Van Horn's mine,
" which all yield copper of about the same quality and
" temper, lying very nearly at the same depth. Hence
" it is conjectured, and not without reason, that this
" whole ridge, 12 miles and more in length, is traversed
" by one and the same vein of copper. The ore occurs
for the most part in veins, generally superficial, in-
termixed with loose strata of earth and stone and
easily excavated. Notwithstanding, no vein has been

a

a

36 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

" discovered workable to advantage, with the price of
" labor customary now in Jersey and the uncertain sale
" of the ore in the English markets. Every copper vein
" in New Jersey has the same surface direction — from
" northeast to southwest ; and each plunges in very
' nearly the same manner, that is to say, making an
' obtuse angle towards the east. The veins grow
broader at a depth, and the copper better. It is still
unknown how far to the southeast the veins underlie
the surface, for although several mines have been
worked for 60 years, there is no instance of a vein
having been exhausted.
In the county of Morris alone there are a great num-
ber of iron mines, high furnaces, bloomeries, and forges.
Most of these were the property of a private English
company which long ago had already spent a great sum
on them. At such a distance, and under the super-
vision of managers, these works as early as 1773 had
consumed a capital of 120,000 Pd. sterling and never-
theless did not pay interest. A certain Johann Jakob
Faesch, + from Germany, wa^ formerly one of the
managers of this company's works, but relinquished
the business and set up his own furnace, equipped with
a particularly advantageous mechanism.

The business of the mines and foundries, in New
Jersey as well as throughout America, cannot be said
to be on as firm a basis as in most parts of Europe, be-
cause nobody is concerned about forest preservation,
and without an uninterrupted supply of fuel and timber
many works must go to ruin, as indeed has already
been the case here and there. Not the least economy
is observed with regard to forests. The owners of
furnaces and foundries possess for the most part great

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 37

tracts of appurtenant woods, which are cut off, how-
ever, without any system or order. The bulk of the
inhabitants sell wood only in so far as to bring the
land they own into cultivation, reserving a certain acre-
age of forest necessary for domestic consumption. The
Union, a high furnace in Jersey, exhausted a forest of
nearly 20,000 acres in about twelve to fifteen years, and
the works had to be abandoned for lack of wood. This
cut-over land was to be sure divided into farms and
sold, but was of trifling value merely because the wood
was gone. If it does not fortunately happen that rich
coal mines are discovered, enabling such works to be
carried on, as in England, with coal, it will go ill with
many of them later on. In and around this mountain
country, the forest trees are generally lea'f-bearing, oak
for the most part, and, what is to the purpose, this tree
does not seem of a very rapid growth in America.

Because at the beginning in the nearer, and latterly
in the farther regions of America, wood has been every-
where in the way of the new planter, people have
grown accustomed to regard forests anywhere as the
most troublesome of growths ; for if crops were to be
seeded it was a necessity to cut down the trees and
grub the roots, — a great labor, and if the forests could
only be blown away, then certainly few trees would be
there to give more trouble. A young American going
to Europe happened to land on the west coast of Ire-
land, where in certain parts not a bush is to be seen for
many miles. He exclaimed in astonishment, ' What a
wonderful country ! What a lucky people, with no
woods to plague them/ ' We are plagued,' they an-
swered him, ' precisely because we have none, and we
are planting as fast as we can.'

38 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

In America there is no sovereign right over forests
and game, no forest service. Whoever holds new land,
in whatever way, controls it as his exclusive possession,
with everything on it, above it, and under it. It will
not easily come about therefore that, as a strict statu-
tory matter, farmers and landowners will be taught
how to manage their forests so as to leave for their
grandchildren a bit of wood over which to hang the
tea-kettle. Experience and necessity must here take the
place of magisterial provision. So far there is indeed
no lack of wood, except in particular localities or for
particular purposes. Only in towns is the price high,
and for the reason that the charge for cutting and
hauling is four or five times the value of the wood on
the stump.

Since I am in the mining region, I shall ask permis-
sion to bring together a few additional mineralogical
items. On the Hudson, in many places, there are found
surface indications of ore, about which in its weathered
state nothing certain can be determined, for the heat
test would not be trustworthy in the case of minerals
decomposed by the action of sun, rain, and frost. At
Haverstraw, province of New York, it is claimed that
traces of tin have been discovered, near the former
country-seat of Mr. Noyelle. Twenty odd miles from
New York, at Phillips' Manor, silver was enthusias-
tically worked at in the years 1772-73. Solid silver
was found scattered in fluorspar. An amalgam-mill
was set up, which got out a regulum of silver, some
twelve ounces, worth to the operators 1500 Pd. York
Current — and with that, digging and amalgamating
came to an end. The Schuyler family, already men-
tioned, long ago worked a silver mine in Jersey, and

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 39

very profitably. The discoverer is said to have been a
negro. The mine lasted only a short time, and I have
been able to get no further information regarding it.
I have been told that dollars were struck from the
metal, but I have seen no specimens of them. There
have been traces of precious metals found still farther
north. Forty and more years ago, near Boston, there
was a silver mine, but worked with little profit, nobody
understanding the business, it is supposed. Judging by
several circumstances the ore was a silver-bearing lead
ore. At Middletown in Connecticut lead ore was once
mined, found associated with a yellow copper ore, and
yielding three to four ounces of silver in the hundred-
weight. Although this content was determined by a
goldsmith in New York, who tested specimens, it ap-
pears that the trick of separating the metal of the ore
was not sufficiently familiar, and this work also came
to a stand. At the beginning of the late war the Con-
necticut Assembly took up this mine again, for the sake
of the lead, but could neither manage the refining prop-
erly nor make enough bullets to shoot every English-
man, (a hankering after any little silver left was also
in vain), and for a second time the business was
abandoned.

From these few items it will be clear enough already
that North America was by no means forgotten of
nature in the matter of mineral wealth. Even now,
when the shell of this new world has been explored
in the most superficial way, in a few places only and
there, for the most part, by chance, the most useful
metals have been found in quantity, and there are at
least traces of the precious metals. Several important
reasons may be given why mining has not been gen-
erally more successful.

40 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

In former times the English government sought to
hinder as much as possible all digging after gold, silver,
and other metals, so that the working hands of a
country still young might not be withdrawn from agri-
culture, the one true source of the peopling of a
country, of its trade, and of its wealth. The export of
unwrought as well as of wrought copper from England
to America was always a considerable article of trade,
and in discouraging American mines it was a subsidi-
ary purpose of the government to bolster that trade.
There were and still are few capitalists in the country
rich enough to furnish on speculation great outlays of
cash in the slow and sure establishment of works. This
side the mountains, (beyond them conditions are still
less known), sundry minerals have been found, par-
ticularly silver and copper, but sporadic and so an al-
lurement and at the same time a discouragement. —
There was a lack of capable miners, for among the
English such are found only in Wales and Cornwall.
Vagrant Germans were employed, at times efficient and
again only pretenders ; who, as the case was, failed for
lack of support or aroused false hopes. Finally, the
greatest difficulty lay in the scarcity of laborers, and the
high wages in a country where the people, it must be
said, are not the most industrious ; moderate outlay
therefore seldom left the undertakers a profit. From
these several reasons taken together, it has happened
that no establishments, besides iron mines and fur-
naces, have kept active. The more general use of that
metal, and the greater ease in handling the raw
material, made sales and profits surer, notwithstanding
the fact that the English government admitted crude
American iron duty-free, in exchange for which was
taken wrought iron.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 41

Princetown. From Rocky Hill, where I broke the
thread of the narrative, the road lay for some distance
over a sandy-loam, and through long reaches of woods.
The red soil appeared again only in the neighborhood
of Princetown, 8 miles this side. The whole way I
missed the smilax, which about New York takes pos-
session of all open land.* Princetown is a little country-
town of only one considerable street in which few houses
stand, but its elevated site makes the place especially
agreeable, the view from it being splendid, out over the
lower country as far as the Neversinks and other parts
of the coast. There could, I thought, be no finer, airier,
and pleasanter place for the seat of the Jersey Muses —
for in 1746 under Governor Belcher, an academy was
established in this province, and given the privilege
of bestowing the same degrees as Oxford and Cam-
bridge. The College, a not uncomely building, stands
in the middle of the town, but is at this time in bad
condition. The British troops, in the winter of 1776,
used it for stalls and barracks, and left a Presbyterian
church near by in a state equally as bad. At the pres-
ent time only 50-60 young students are in residence,
partly within, partly without the College ; and only
humaniora and philosophy are taught. Among the
professors is Dr. Witherspoon, a Scottish clergyman,
widely known not only for his. learning but for the zeal

* About York several sorts of smilax grow with extraordi-
nary vigor. These are so lasting and pliant, bear cutting so
well, and grow together in such an impenetrable shrubbery
that certainly nothing better could be found for live hedges
around fields. They keep their leaves late into the fall, and
would be an ornament as well. The only objection is they
spread too fast.

42 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

with which he championed the cause of the Americans.
Recently Princetown had the honor of being for a while
the place of assembly of the American Congress-
after a handful of indelicate soldiers, demanding such
a trifle as back pay for five or six years, had frightened
the Congress from Philadelphia.

The unbearable heat prevailing kept us from going
forward except slowly, and was the reason why we
spent several days in coming from New York to this
place. Within a short space two men have died
suddenly at Princetown, seeking refreshment in cool
drinks when overheated. A diligence, known as the
Flying Machine + makes daily trips between Philadel-
phia and New York, covering the distance of 90 miles
in one day even in the hottest weather, but at the ex-
pense of the horses, only three times changed on the
journey. Thus, the last trip two horses died in harness
and four others were jaded. These flying machines are
in reality only large wooden carts with tops, light to be
sure but neither convenient nor of neat appearance.
They carry from ten to twelve passengers with lug-
gage, are drawn by four horses only, and go very fast.
The charge for this journey is 5-6 Spanish dollars the
passenger. Besides flying machines there are in the
country other excursion-machines, neither coach nor
cart, run for the behoof of visiting families ; these hold
commonly six to eight persons and are probably much
like the sort of vehicle which in old prints is repre-
sented as conveying Dr. Luther to Worms. In the
towns, however, there is no lack of fine carriages,
phaetons, and chairs (a two-wheeled cart or chaise) ;
throughout America almost every house is supplied
with a chaise, in which the fanner takes his broken
plow to the smith or his calves to market.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 43

I had the pleasure of meeting two members of the
Congress, agreeable and worthy men, and congratu-
lated myself especially upon taking dinner in the com-
pany of General Lincoln. I found in him a man of
great intelligence and open-mindedness, although, since
the surrender of Charleston, his military talents seem
less brilliant to the more unreasonable among his
countrymen. He possesses a considerable landed prop-
erty in New England whither he returns to tranquillity
and the brewing of excellent beer, now that he has
resigned his place as War Secretary, which office he
administered with approbation.*

Wheat in America suffers almost every year from
the mildew. It is remarked that usually the disease
attacks the wheat between the ist and the loth of July.
On that ground General Lincoln proposed a method of
prevention. Granted that at the season mentioned
wheat is at a stage of growth the most favorable to the
origin and spread of the mildew, it follows plausibly
that the disease might be kept off if the wheat could
be more quickly carried through that stage of its
growth, (when it is nearly mature), or on the other
hand if the period of maturity could be retarded. In
the middle and southern colonies this method could be
put into effect by procuring seed-wheat from the more
northern provinces, where the characteristic of the seed
is to make wheat of an earlier maturity, the several
stages of growth being rapidly passed through ; and
consequently, sown in a warmer climate there would
be formed a stronger grain, to defy the mildew at a

* He has lately assumed command again — of the New Eng-
land troops against the rebels of that country, and has made
an end of the disorders.

44 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

time when the indigenous wheat begins to be most
susceptible to the disease. Several experiments of this
sort have already been attended with good success.
With the maize-crop this method would not be of such
advantage, for the reason that seed from the more
northern regions developes more rapidly indeed, but
produces smaller and lighter grain.

This summer the wheat harvest in Jersey turned out
very moderately. There had been too little rain in the
fall, and the winter was too mild and open. The farmer
is well pleased, therefore, if his winter wheat, towards
the end of December or in January, is covered with
snow and thus protected against rain and frost, by
which (when snow fails) the tender, exposed sprouts
are killed or are pushed out of the freezing ground.
Here as in the other middle provinces almost no spring
wheat is sown, but that is not the case more to the
south and more to the north, as for example in Caro-
lina and in Massachusetts. Winter grain does not
thrive in the southern provinces, because of the warmth
of the autumn, the mildness of the winter, and the lack
of snow, which very seldom falls ; the young sprouts
therefore grow faster, and a frosty winter night often
kills off entirely the soft, exposed seed. What with ex-
treme cold and early winters, spring wheat also does
better in the colder provinces.* It is the custom here
to call a bushel of wheat 60 pd. English weight ; for
each pound more or less, a penny, Pensylvan. Current,
is added or subtracted in the price. The average price

* People here and there on Long Island have begun to sow
spring wheat, since winter wheat has often failed on account
of the uneven winter temperature.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 45

is at present 5-6 shillings current, i. e., about three shil-
lings sterling. About one bushel is seeded to the acre
(43,600 English feet in the square), and people expect
10-12 for one on the poorer lands, 15-18 for one on
better lands. In Jersey as in the other middle colonies
wheat is a considerable article of trade.

In New England the common barberry is in evil
repute. There is laid to its charge that its proximity
is injurious to the growth of wheat and other field-
crops. Whether it is a positive or a negative injury,
that is, whether it works damage actively, corrupting
the atmosphere, or merely exhausts the better juices of
the soil, nobody has been able or willing to determine.
However, a strict law has been passed against the poor
barberry, making the inhabitants responsible, with no
further judicial process, for the carrying out of the
death sentence imposed upon both varieties of this
shrub, (elsewhere harmless) whenever it makes its ap-
pearance— if any man extends protection to the shrub
his neighbor has the right to enter and destroy, and
can bring action against the slothful or unbelieving
condoner for damage and trouble incurred. But the
New Englanders are known for other strange beliefs
and practices as well, and it was among them that
witch trials, at the beginning of the century, were so
grimly prosecuted.

It is said that petroleum is found in or on the Mill-
stone River, not far from Princetown. Petroleum
occurs in many other parts of America, especially, I am
told, in and about the Oneida Lakes.

By General Lincoln's account a piece of solid copper
weighing 2078 pounds was found some years ago on
the summit of a mountain near Middlebrook, in the

TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

sand under the roots of a tree. A copper mine near
Brunswick yielded ore containing silver, but not enough
to warrant the expense of separation. The same thing
was told me by Mr. Peters, + (a member of the Con-
gress) in regard to a lead mine in Pensylvania, a share
in which he owns.

In the evening, not without regret, we took leave of
these agreeable Congressmen, so as to reach Trenton
that night, ten miles from Princeton. The road lay
through a country at intervals well-cultivated. The
wheat harvest was over almost everywhere. Maize we
found nowhere in Jersey so advanced as that we had
left on Long Island and about York. Is it perhaps true
that the red soil of this region does not produce corn
so well ? Six miles from Princeton we came to Maiden-
head, a hamlet of five or six houses. There are in
America a number of such places called towns, where
one must look for the houses, either not built or scat-
tered a good distance apart. That is to say, certain dis-
tricts are set off as Townships, (market or town dis-
tricts), the residents of which live apart on their farms,
a particular spot being called the town, where the
church and the tavern stand and the smiths have their
shops — because in one or the other of these community
buildings the neighbors are accustomed to meet. And
when later professional men, shop-keepers, and other
people who are not farmers come to settle, their dwell-
ings group themselves about the church and the shops.

The thermometer at high-lying Princeton, in a large,
airy room stood at 91° Fahr., and even late in the even-
ing the weather was extraordinarily close. After sunset
we arrived at Trenton, a name familiar enough from
the history of the late war. This is a not inconsiderable

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 47

place, standing on uneven ground, through which flows
a brook, crossed by a stone bridge. In view of the
fact that the town is perhaps no more than fifty years
old, Trenton contains very many buildings and among
them several of good appearance. The landlord here
permitted us to go to bed unquestioned being not yet
done with several other guests arrived shortly before,
and we not disposed to wait for him. The taverns on
the way were in other respects very good, all of them
clean, well-supplied, and well-served.

A mile from Trenton brought us to the banks of the
Delaware, over which the passenger is set, very
cheaply, in a flat, roomy ferry-boat. A large brick
house and several other houses, all in ruins, stand here
as a token of the war. A little above the ferry there
appears a reef, standing diagonally across the stream ;
at low water this is uncovered, and through the
many breaks the stream hurries \vith a swifter current
and a certain uproar. This is what is called the Lower
Falls of Delaware, the limit of shipping inland. That
is to say, little shalops and sail boats come up as high
as this place, but nothing ascends beyond. In the
spring and in the fall, when either rains or melting
snows swell the stream, and these rocks with others in
the channel are under water, there come down residents
of the upper country in large, flat boats, from a dis-
tance of 100-150 miles, bringing their wheat and other
products to market. Throughout America these swell-
ings of the rivers are called ' the freshes ' and are of
great importance to the more distant inhabitants. The
tide comes up to this fall some 200 miles from the sea,
but brings no salt water with it.* Judging by the

* The tides bring salt water hardly half the distance from

48 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

high-water marks the stream must often rise many feet.
The depth of the channel is very variable here. Some
12-15 miles above there is another fall, called the upper
fall.

Just above the lower fall there is a little island on the
Jersey side. Some one had formed the project of build-
ing a dam there and running a deep ditch as far as the
ferry, intending to erect a mill at that spot. The ditch
is to be 12 ft. deep and 20 wide, and will require
time and expense enough in the digging. At a depth
of no more than two to three feet below the surface
nothing but rock is found, for the most part a hard,
blueish sort of stone,* (with fragments of incomplete
granite), which also appears at the surface of the water
along the banks, and seems to be the material of which
the reef is composed. Above this stone, at the side of
the ditch, were to be seen loose rounded stones of
several sorts, the whole covered with the common
sandy, reddish soil. On the Pensylvania side, at some
distance, we were shown several houses belonging to a
forge of Colonel Bird's.

It was not my purpose to spend time in Jersey, which
(beyond its mines already described) has nothing
especial to show as between the adjoining provinces,
New York and Pensylvania. The products of the
country, its climate &c. are the same. Among the
natural curiosities the beautiful waterfall of the Peq-
uanok, or Passaik, deserves mention. Over a wall of

the sea to Philadelphia. In the Delaware, on account of its
length, there occur two flood-tides and two ebb-tides, at fixed
times but varying for different places.

* Seems to be similar to trap ? — does not strike fire on steel —
is not affected by acids — has a very fine grain.

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 49

rock 70 ft. high the stream falls straight away, 60 yards
wide. The roughness and wildness of the spot should
markedly heighten the loftiness of the scene, which I
did not visit. New Jersey was earlier settled and culti-
vated (by Swedes) than the neighboring provinces, and
formerly was called New Sweden. At present the in-
habitants consist of the descendants of the Swedish
settlers, with Hollanders, Germans, and English —
whether the number (including blacks) is actually 130,-
ooo, as the Congress gave out before the war, might
need further proof. Those parts of Jersey toward the
sea are infertile, sandy, swampy flats, grown up in pines
and red and white cedar. Along the coast itself are
few settlements, and those for the most part inhabited
by fishermen. Larger ships do not willingly approach
this flat coast, which is cut by many inlets.

This province is divided into two parts, East and
West New Jersey, the boundaries of which are still a
matter of dispute. East Jersey is made up of the
counties Monmouth, Middlesex, Sommerset, Essex,
and Bergen — West Jersey of the counties Cape-May,
Cumberland, Salem, Gloucester, Burlington, Hunter-
don, Sussex, and Morris. Of the latter division, Burl-
ington on the Delaware, 18 miles above Philadelphia,
is regarded as the capital, a town known for its good
tap-houses. Perth Amboy is the capital of the eastern
division. Among the more considerable places may be
reckoned Bordentown, Mount Holly, Freehold, Shrews-
bury, Greenwich, and Salem. Salem and Greenwich,
on the Delaware, formerly had a good trade.

The administration of this province is through a Gov-
ernor, a Legislative Council, and a General Assembly.
Each county sends a member to the Council, an estate
4

50 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

of 1000 Pd. and at least a year's residence in the prov-
ince being required for eligibility. Each county sends
three members to the General Assembly, and an eligible
must have lived a year at least in the county, and be pos-
sessed of realty to the value of 500 Pd. In order that
a law shall be valid, both Assemblies must agree to
its passage. Freeholders who have been a year resi-
dent in their county, and possess real estates to the
value of 50 Pd., are entitled to a vote in the election of
members of both the Assemblies. The Assembly re-
serves to itself the right of proposing and authorizing
all taxes and imposts. In this matter the Council has
no authority. The two Assemblies in common elect a
Governor for the term of one year, who constitutes the
chief executive power, presides over the Council, is
Chancellor, and is also Commander-in-chief of the
militia and other provincial forces.

The Governor and Council (of which 7 members are
a Quorum) are the highest court of appeal in all mat-
ters at law, and are empowered as well to pardon con-
demned criminals, if the case warrants.

Judges * of the Supreme or General Court, which
sits but twice a year at each capital, continue seven
years in office. Judges of the Inferior Court of Com-
mon Pleas for the several counties ; Justices of the
Peace f ; Supreme Court, Inferior Court, and Quarter

* Judges — Among the most highly regarded of public offices.
The judges are chosen from among the most experienced and
most learned lawyers. By one or more of them the several
courts are held ; they hear plaintiff and defendant, prove the
grounds and evidence brought forward, give their opinion as
matter of law, but leave to the Jury the final decision.

f Justices of the Peace — are charged with the keeping of

JOURNEY THROUGH JERSEY 51

Session Clerks ; the Attorney General ; and the Pro-
vincial Secretary remain in office five years — the Pro-
vincial Treasurer only one year. After these terms,
however, if nothing is charged against them, these offi-
cers may be again elected — the two Assemblies elect
and the Governor confirms them. Courts of Common
Pleas are held monthly in the Court House of each
county, and have jurisdiction merely in criminal cases,
personalia and realia, not of great importance. Quarter
Sessions Courts are held in like manner in the county
Court Houses, once each quarter, and their jurisdiction
is wider. The General or Supreme Courts receive ap-
peals from these lower courts and pass on them ; crimi-
nal processes also are brought before the General
Court, which may exercise original jurisdiction in all
suits whatever involving amounts exceeding 25 Pd.

Those residents of each county, eligible as electors,
choose among themselves yearly a Sheriff * and one
or more Coroners f ; the same persons may be chosen
three years in succession but not longer. After another
space of three years, these persons may be again elected.
The choice is announced to the Governor for con-
firmation.

good order and peace in their district or county; commonly
intelligent and upright men are chosen by the people to this
office.

The titles and duties of all the officers enumerated are, with-
out much difference, the same as in England and in the other
North American states.

* His office is to execute the commands and judgments of
the courts, and to see that the laws are obeyed.

t Whose office it is to make examination and determine the
cause, in cases of accidental, sudden, or violent death.

52 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Towns and villages elect yearly their Constables,*
and also three or more honorable and intelligent free-
holders before whom the residents bring their reason-
able or imaginary troubles, in the matter of unfair taxa-
tion, and must abide by the decision rendered without
further appeal. All criminal offenders have, in regard
to witnesses and counsellors, the same rights and privi-
leges as their prosecutors. Every man has the liberty
of serving God according to his own will and con-
science. No man can be compelled to any sort of
worship. No man can be forced to pay tithes, taxes, or
other levies for the building or maintenance of any
church or house of worship soever, or for the support
of ministers, except as he himself is willing.

No religious sect is to be given preference over any
other. No Protestant is to be denied any civil right or
liberty on the ground of his religion, but all persons of
whatever protestant sect, who peaceably conform to
this mode of government, are eligible for election to
any magisterial or other office. To obviate all suspicion
of extraordinary influence or corruption on the part
of the legislative assemblies, no Judge of the Superior
or Inferior Courts, no Sheriff or other person holding
lucrative office under the government, shall be admitted
a member of the Assembly ; and if such person is elected
his former post is to be regarded as vacant.

* Subordinate officers whose duty it is to see to the keeping
of the peace in their districts, and to arrest and bring to jail
all criminals, debtors &c.

After we had descended a little slope (on the Jersey
side) to the river, we had to ascend another gentle rise
beyond. The road then lay for four or five miles
through continued woods, and here and there we came
upon a wretched block-house. But the thoroughfare
cut out of the forest is broad, and in dry weather, as
now, very good. The country is level, but sandy and
sterile. We had the Delaware to the left, a little way
off, and through the forest openings fine perspectives
were often presented. Two miles beyond the Delaware
there was another small ferry to pass, over the Sham-
any; the ferry-boat runs on pulleys working along a
stout tackle made fast at either side of the stream. It
was yet early in the morning when we reached

Bristol, a pretty little town on the banks of the Dela-
ware, which although not to be likened to the Bristol
of the old world, on account of its mineral waters is
known in the new. Situated in a hollow, at the foot of
a large, high-lying, natural embankment, is the spring,
the waters of which are used as well for bathing as for
drinking. The water contains iron, and is of no espe-
cial strength. There is built over the spring a light
structure of wood housing the saloon, or long-room, in
the middle, a bath at one end and the pump-room at
the other — that is, the water is brought up through
pumps and dispensed to visitors in this room, and here
the rules to be observed and the schedule of charges

54 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

are posted on boards. Professor Rush of Philadelphia
has written a pamphlet on this water, giving the re-
sults of his experiments ; he himself says that it is but
very lightly charged with particles of iron, but, for the
rest, is a very pure and pleasant water. He does not
recommend it in special cases, but merely for its gen-
eral curative properties — for this spring is not superior
to many other iron springs in Pensylvania and indeed
throughout America. At Gloucester, at Abington &c.
in Pensylvania, there are iron springs ; the Abington
spring is said to be especially strong, depositing much
yellow ochre and therefore commonly called the Yellow
Spring. The habitual drinking-water of Philadelphia
contains much iron. The metal is so general over the
whole surface of America, and particularly in the wilder
parts, that it is impossible iron springs should be in-
frequent. I have come upon them in Rhode Island, and
on York and Long Islands. The especial excellence of
such springs lies in the more or less purity and very
agreeable taste of the water. Bristol must attribute
the honor done it more to its fine and convenient situa-
tion, only 20 miles from Philadelphia, than to any-
thing else. At the usual seasons all manner of guests
come hither seeking health and diversion, and more
would come if the people of Bristol were willing to de-
vote themselves to matters of entertainment and service.
From Bristol to the Sign of General Washington, a
lonely tavern, is 10 miles through a somewhat hilly
country, for the most part sandy, here and there red-
dish. The traveller comes by two walled bridges (a
sort still rarely seen) to the village of Frankfort, a
handsome little place five miles from Philadelphia ;
from that point to the city the road is quite level, over a

PENSYLVANIA 55

light, sandy soil. The nearer one comes to the capital,
the freeer of woods is the landsscape, and there are
more people and more farms. Wheat and oats had
been everywhere got in. Here also the corn was no-
where so good or so advanced as about New York.
The cattle which met us on the road were not of a sort
particularly fine. Between Bristol and Frankfort, and
elsewhere, churches stood by the road either quite iso-
lated or placed in a shady grove. The construction of
these was peculiar, invariably more height than length.
The design may have been to build on at some time and
bring the whole into proportion. The whole way from
New York to Philadelphia not a foot-passenger met
us. Few passengers met us at all, but in every case
riding or driving. To go a-foot is an abomination to
the American, no matter how poor or friendless ; and
at times he hits upon a means — he steals a nag from
the pasture or borrows one without asking.

In New York there had been an opinion that the
Americans, as a result of the war, were suffering for
lack of clothes and other necessities ; on the contrary,
we found on the road that everybody was well and
neatly clad, and observed other signs of good living
and plenty. On the 26th of July, in the evening, we
arrived at the pleasant city of Philadelphia.

Philadelphia. Who in the fatherland has not heard
of Philadelphia? And to whom should not this pre-
eminent city of America be known ? It is not indeed a
city such as it can and ought to be, but none the less
it is a remarkable place in more respects than one.
William Penn, sufficiently known in history, founded
the city in 1682, and in the space of 100 years it has
grown to a notable size. The houses today are 2400

56 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

in number, for the most part of two storeys.* It is to
be regretted that there is no thorough and impartial
history of this city, and it is especially deplorable that
no such history is to be had for this province, of which
the rise and wonderfully rapid growth would form so
valuable a contribution to the history of mankind. The
historical fragments which exist are but the prejudiced
accounts of political quarrels, neither instructive nor
interesting. The stedfast spirit of enterprise of the
honored founder, his amiable and philanthropic plan,
his unwearied efforts and conscientious fairness in the
acquisition of land from the aborigines, the wise, toler-
ant laws of the colony, the rapid increase of the popu-
lation and of its trade, the advance of the arts and
sciences, the gradual betterment of taste and morals,
the harmony among so many religious sects, and in-
deed the rise of new sects — all this would supply fruit-
ful and rich material for a history of wide acceptance.
There is no lack of men in Philadelphia who would be
entirely capable of this work, but these few are at this
time overwhelmed with other business. From predilec-
tion for his religious principles, and deluded by his
own goodness of heart, the first design of the founder
seems to have been to establish a colony free of earthly
authorities, free of soldiers, of priests, of individual
property, and also, it is said, free from doctors of
medicine. — Quite after the manner of the Golden Age,
all this, and as Voltaire + remarks, not to be found any-
where in the world outside of Pensylvania. Penn, as
it seems, felt and sought to avoid all the hardship which
inequality among men entails, those conditions de-

* In a recent news item the number is given as 4600.

PENSYLVANIA 57

scribed by Rousseau, in so masterful a fashion, only
long after. But experience soon taught that universal
love may be easily imagined and preached, but, in a
growing colony, may not so easily be practiced. How-
ever, the world had to be told in this way to what
lengths brotherly love may go — of which all hearts are
not equally capable, and over which self-love still holds
dominion. Certainly, laws would be necessary in a
society of saints, and perhaps would be nowhere more
needed than where people so easily become habituated
to think excentrically — The history of England at that
time, and the individual history of the immortal Penn,
must be read in Smollet, Raynal, and others, since so
many circumstances were united to give the founder's
plans and achievements the directions which they took.
Philadelphia lies under Latitude 39° 57' and Longi-
tude west 75° 20', and so, nearly at the middle of the
United States — the city, if not greatly beyond others in
America in wealth and number of houses, far surpasses
them all in learning, in the arts, and public spirit. The
plain on which Philadelphia stands is elevated ground
between the magnificent Delaware and the romantic
Schuylkill. Granite is the underlying rock, which
shows itself particularly along the banks of the Schuyl-
kill. The distance apart of the rivers, in the neighbor-
hood of the city, is not quite two miles ; three miles
below, they unite, and the tongue of land so formed,
called the Neck, is for the most part lower and swampier
than the site of the city. The plan of Philadelphia is
fine and regular, but not wholly faultless. The larger
and smaller cities of America have this advantage, that
they have not grown from villages by chance but were
planned from the beginning and have been enlarged by

58 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

a plan. By the original chart Philadelphia is fixed
within a rectangle from the bank of the Delaware to
the Schuylkill and a little beyond. But at the present
time not a third of the plan is filled in, and one must
not be led into the error of thinking it complete, as
represented in certain maps both of Philadelphia and
of Pensylvania. For nothwithstanding the swift push-
ing-back of the city, centuries yet must go by before
the ground plan is built up. The streets cross at right
angles. Those along the Delaware run nearly North
and South and are parallel, as are those running East
and West, or from the Delaware to the Schuylkill.
Along the Delaware the line of houses, including the
suburbs, extends for some two miles, and the breadth
of the city, including the suburbs, is not quite a mile
going from the river. Water-street, next to the Dela-
ware, is narrow and considerably lower than the rest
of the city. In this street are warehouses chiefly.
Commodious wharves, for ships of as much as 500 tons,
are built in behind the houses, and here a few feet of
land, often made land, yield rich returns to the owners.
The remaining streets parallel with Water-street and
the river, are called in their order First or Front-street,
Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, Seventh ; so many
at present — the three last are still short. The cross
streets running from east to west are the most elevated,
and in their order from north to south are : Vine, Race,
Arch, Market, Chesnut, Wallnut, Spruce, Union
From these a number of alleys traverse the chief
quarters. Market-street is the best street and the only
one 100 ft. in breadth ; all the rest are only 50 ft. wide.
Were all the streets as wide again the town would be
by so much the finer and more convenient. It is easily

PENSYLVAN1A 59

seen that Quakers drew the plan, and dealt frugally
with the space. Market-street is disfigured and the city
is deprived of the view, otherwise splendid, towards the
river and the Jersey side, by reason of the market-
stalls, two long, open buildings set in the middle of the
street and extending from First to Third-street.* It is
droll how the upper part of these buildings makes so
extraordinary a distinction between East and West,
rear and front. That is to say. the upper part of the
Market-house is the Court-House, and built at either
end are balconies, of which that at one end is the place
where newly elected Governors are introduced to the
people, and at the other end are the pillories for rogues.
It is a pity that when the town was laid off, there
was such a total neglect to provide open squares, which
lend an especial beauty to great towns, and grassed
after the manner of the English, or set with shrubbery,
are very pleasing to the eye. In Philadelphia there is
nothing but streets all alike, the houses of brick, of the
same height mostly, and built by a plan that seldom
varies ; some few are adorned outwardly by a particular
pattern or are better furnished than the general within.
Throughout the city the streets are well paved and well
kept, highest down the middle, but next the houses
there runs a footway sufficiently broad, and laid with
flat stones ; this side-way is often narrowed by the
' stoops ' built up before the houses, or by the down-
sloping cellar and kitchen doors. There being a super-
fluity of space, it would have been easy, at the founda-
tion of this new city, to avoid the inconveniences of old
ones. At night the city is lit by lanterns placed on

*And lately still farther.

60 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

posts diagonally alternate at the side of the footway,
but the lanterns are sparingly distributed and have no
reflectors. The streets are kept clean and in good order
by the householders themselves. Water and filth from
the streets are carried off through conduits to the river.
Appointed night-watchmen call out the hours and the
state of the weather. Behind each house is a little
court or garden, where usually are the necessaries, and
so this often evil-smelling convenience of our European
houses is missed here, but space and better arrange-
ment are gained. The kitchen, stable, &c. are all placed
in buildings at the side or behind, kitchens often under-
ground. Vaults I do not remember seeing in any
house. The attempt is made to avoid everything detri-
mental to the -convenience or cleanliness of dwelling-
houses. In the matter of interior decorations the Eng-
lish style is imitated here as throughout America. The
furniture, tables, bureaux, bedsteads &c. are commonly
of mahogany, at least in the best houses. Carpets,
Scottish and Turkish, are much used, and indeed are
necessities where the houses are so lightly built ; stairs
and rooms are laid with them. The houses are seldom
without paper tapestries, the vestibule especially being
so treated. The taste generally is for living in a cleanly
and orderly manner, without the continual scrubbing of
the Hollanders or the frippery and gilt of the French.
The rooms are in general built with open fire-places but
the German inhabitants, partly from preference and old
custom, partly from economy, have introduced iron or
tin-plate draught-stoves which are used more and more
by English families (as a result of the increasing dear-
ness of wood) both in living-rooms and in work-rooms.
Here especially there are seen Franklins (named in

PENSYLVANIA 61

honor of the inventor), a sort of iron affair, half stove,
half fire-place. This is a longish, rectangular apparatus
made of cast-iron plates and stands off from the wall,
the front being open, in every respect a detached,
movable fire-place.* + The comfortable sight of the
open fire is thus enjoyed, and the good ventilation is
healthful ; moreover, the iron plates warm a room at
less expense of fuel than is possible with the wall fire-
place, from which most of the heat is lost.

In so warm a climate the inconveniences arising from
the narrowness of the streets were felt at this time and
must be whenever the weather is hot. During three
days, June 23, 24, 25, Fahrenheit's thermometer stood
constantly at 93-95 degrees. The city is so far inland
that no wind from the sea brings coolness ; round about
is a dry, sandy soil ; and in addition narrow streets,
houses and footways of brick strongly reflecting the
sun's rays — everything makes for a high degree of
dead heat in the city. During these three days, not
less than 30 sudden deaths were announced in the
Philadelphia newspapers, martyrs to the heat by the
coroners' returns, and also, very probably, victims of
an indiscreet imbibition of cold drinks. But as every-
where else, not until after the event, were the people
warned by public proclamation to keep clear of cold
drinks.

The number of the inhabitants was placed at 20,000
as early as 1766, before the war at 30,000, and at pres-
ent (counting strangers) is fixed at 30-40,000 — with
what certainty I am not prepared to say. On account

* Description and drawing of which, to be found in Dr.
Franklin's Collected Works; there is a German translation.

62 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

of the many distinct religious sects, no exact register
is so far kept of births and deaths, which if attempted
might not be reliable. A strict enumeration of the in-
habitants is difficult in America, (and merely political
calculations are untrustworthy,) where people are con-
tinually moving about, leaving a place or coming in.

I remember once reading in some book of travels
that Philadelphia was a city of Quakers and beautiful
gardens. Brief enough, and for the time probably true.
Quakers from the beginning have been the most numer-
ous, the most respectable, and the richest among the
inhabitants ; in the government of the state they have
had an important, perhaps the weightiest, influence ;
and their manners, through imitation, have become
general among the people. Quakers purchased and
peopled the country ; they made with the aborigines
peaceable treaties, as Voltaire observes, the only treaties
between Indians and Christians, unsworn-to and not
broken. The greatest part of the useful institutions
and foundations owe their origin to this sect. By it
chiefly was the police organized and maintained. This
temperate and originally virtue-seeking brotherhood
takes no part in impetuous and time-consuming pleas-
ures which worldliness and idleness bring other, baptized
Christians into. Their religion, giving them a coat
with no buttons or creases, denies them play and the
dance. Thus they gain much time for pondering use-
ful regulations which do honor to their society and are
advantageous to the community. For the same reason,
where circumstances are equally favorable, Quakers
are invariably better-off than their neighbors, because
they bring order into their domestic affairs, undertake
nothing without the most careful forethought, and

PENSYLVANIA 63

prosecute everything with constant zeal. In Philadel-
phia the large Hospital and the Workhouse are stand-
ing examples of their benevolent views. Also, the field
of the sciences has them to thank ; the American Phil-
osophical Society was founded by them, and their sect
furnishes to it many worthy members. For gradually
the Quakers are giving over their former depreciation
of the sciences, since they find that increased intelli-
gence does not injure the well-being of a community,
and that everything is not to be expected from im-
mediate revelation. In their outward conduct, and in
their relations with their fellow-citizens of other beliefs,
they are beginning to recede from the strict attitude of
an earlier time. No longer does the hat sit quite so
square, and many young Quakers venture to half-tilt
the round hat, gently, so that the brims are brought into
a position, doubtful as yet, half perpendicular and half
horizontal. But the ' Thou ' and ' Thee,' which in our
title-seeking Germany was the chief hindrance in the
spread of Quakerism, they still find it well to retain.

It is against the principles of the Quakers to take
part in any feud whatsoever, because as Christians they
consider it their duty to love their enemies. Hence,
neither in former wars nor in this last war would they
let themselves be placed in ranks and companies with
murderous weapons in their hands, although the Jews
themselves have not in America declined such service.
In former times it was the easier to abjure all partici-
pation in war, since the Proprietors, the Governors, all
the more important citizens and officers of state were of
that sect. Besides, it happened that the unbaptized
blood-shy Friends stayed quietly at their plantations or
their towns in lower Pensylvania while in the farther

64 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

regions the poorer, baptized Christians were being
murdered and scalped by the Indians or the French.
To be sure they did not cease to deprecate these grew-
some contrivances of jealous and land-hungry mon-
archs ; but they excused themselves on the ground that
the Brotherhood never waged war, and would the
rather suffer everything at the hands of an enemy insa-
tiable. How long a state could exist, composed entirely
of Quakers and therefore inimical to war, may be easily
imagined. Adjoining states must be Quakers as well
or the supposed state less rich than Quakers commonly
are. The leaders of the now free American states very
clearly perceived that by the virtues of Quakerism no
victories could be won : so, during the war the Brother-
hood was left in undisturbed inactivity, but was doubly
taxed. But the Quakers resisted payment of these
taxes because they regarded them as mediate contribu-
tions in the effecting of bloody designs — for which they
professed an absolute hatred, but the results of which
were entirely to their liking. In the circumstances, a
part of the property of those refusing to pay was seized,
and sold below value in the name of the state. Event-
ually, most of them became amenable, if only to pre-
serve the appearance of the peace-loving and non-pay-
ing Quaker, and when the tax-gatherer came, (in
America the farmer does not seek him out), they fell
into a custom of laying a piece of gold on the table,
which could be taken for tax — the part of conscience
or duty, perhaps also the part of wisdom. Those
Quakers within the compass of the royal English army
conducted themselves in like manner during the war.
They never gave a horse, or a wagon, or a servant, or
anything which might be demanded of them for the

PENSYLVANIA 65

maintenance of the troops, but they looked on uncon-
cerned if without further question such things were
taken as needed.

During the late war, however, certain of the Quak-
ers permitted themselves to be led astray by the spirit
of schism and took an active part in the war ; but these,
with their friends and adherents, were excluded from
the meetings of the genuine, orthodox Quakers. Upon
that, they built themselves a meeting-house of their
own, in Arch-street, between Fourth and Fifth-street,
where they will, like the others, quietly await the mov-
ing of the same spirit. Their number is not large and
they are distinguished by the name of Fighting Quak-
ers. It might perhaps have been possible, by compli-
ance on either side, to avoid a separation ; but since this
is never the case in matters of opinion and faith, and
since the break has gone so far as the erection of a
new meeting-house, there will be no re-union, if only
because the building would then have been raised to no
purpose : and so Philadelphia gains a new rubric in
the list of its sects. A certain Matlock + is one of the
most conspicuous of these fighting Quakers, or quak-
ing fighters, and made no scruple of accepting a
colonelcy in the American army. Hr had always been
an enterprising genius, and as a consequence had debts.
When he was just made Colonel, and with his sword
at his side, was walking the streets, an acquaintance
met him — ' Friend, what doest thee with that thing at
thy side?' 'Protecting Liberty and Property,' (two
words very current in England and America), an-
swered the Colonel. ' Eh,' said his friend, ' as for prop-
erty I never knew thee had any, and liberty, that thee
hast by the indulgence of the brethren.'
5

66 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

After the separation took place, the old and the new-
school Quakers sent formal notice to every of the other
religious sects, who were pleased at the schism because
hitherto the Quakers had reproached them with the
twists and quarrels prevailing among them.

Many of the younger Quakers, who have travelled
in Europe, begin to find pleasure in the joys of the
world, and bringing back to Pensylvania a freer way
of thought, more pliant manners, and a modish dress,
the example is effective. The Quaker coat is hung on
a nail for a while, but with advancing age is at times
hunted out again ; with it there return other Quaker
ideas, and the old-time customs, imposing little re-
straint, are willingly followed — they serve as welcome
excuse to a frugal man.

When one of the Brotherhood by his behavior loses
the confidence of the society or deserves punishment
of them, he is not perhaps excommunicated, but ' they
disavow him' ; he is not recognized further as a member
of the Society. — The Society of Quakers does not now
increase, as formerly, through numerous proselytes.
They are now circumstantial and critical before ad-
mitting new members, who besides offer themselves
less frequently than at one time ; and since by marriage,
travel, and in other ways members here and there are
lost or resign, the number rather diminishes than in-
creases, and it is likely that with the course of time and
the changes resultant in manners and beliefs, the whole
sect will become if not extinct at least decayed : the
case, it is said, in England where there is a marked
falling-off among them in comparison with former
times.

Pensylvania, and in consequence Philadelphia, as-

PENSYLVANIA 67

sures freedom to all religious sects; men of all faiths
and many of none, dwell together in harmony and
peace. Tolerance, the advantages of which are only
now beginning to be felt in several of the kingdoms of
Europe, has been for a hundred years the foundation-
stone of this flourishing state. Whoever acknowledges
a God can be a citizen and has part in all the privileges
of citizenship. Whoever is a member of any of the
Christian congregations is eligible to petty office, and
can be elected also to the Assembly, to the governor-
ship, or to the Congress. Inspiration is left out of the
account, except among the Quakers who look for
everything from that source, and without it a man
may be a good citizen and senator of Pensylvania. By
such laws as these the Jews enjoy every right of citi-
zenry and, provided they own property enough, vote
for members of the Assembly. This everywhere op-
pressed and burdened nation can here and throughout
America follow any civil business, and is restricted in
hardly any way. The spirit of tolerance has gone so
far that different religious sects have assisted one an-
other in the building of houses of worship. At the
present time there are in Philadelphia more than thirty
such buildings, which if not all equally of a size and
comeliness are in every case of a simple and neat con-
struction ; costly and artistic decoration is not to be
found in them. Of these churches and meeting-houses,
the Quakers own five, including their new meeting-
house— there are three churches, using the English
liturgy and ceremonies, which formerly were under
the care of the English bishops — there are two Scotch
Presbyterian churches — two German Lutheran, of
which the one in Fourth-street is large and handsome

68 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

— one German Reformed church — two Roman Catho-
lic chapels, the one directed by a former Jesuit from
Ireland and the other by a German priest, the two par-
ishes numbering probably more than 1000 souls — there
is a Swedish church at Wikakoa near the city — there
is a synagogue — and there are other meeting-houses
belonging to the Anabaptists, Methodists, Moravian
Brethren, &c.

In the German Lutheran congregation there are bap-
tized yearly some 400 children, and perhaps half as
many burials are made. This difference is due to the
fact that people living at a distance from Philadelphia
bring in their children to be baptized, on occasions of
market or other business ; but with the dead the case is
that they are buried quietly in the country, behind the
houses they have lived in — for many landowners in
America have a family burying-ground in their gardens.
The priesthood gains nothing by the dead, unless their
services are desired at burials. You may (if the father
in the case consents) be born for nothing, and you may
die gratis — as you like ; only while you live must taxes
be paid.

Among the churches, Christ Church in Second-street
has the best appearance and the finest steeple. The
east side is well-embellished, the building, however,
stands too near the street. Christ Church has a beauti-
ful chime of bells, which makes a complete octave and
is heard especially on evenings before the weekly mar-
kets and at times of other glad public events. The bells
are so played that the eight single notes of the octave
are several times struck, descending, rapidly one after
the other, — and then the accord follows in tercet and
quint, ascending; and so repeated. On certain solemn

PENSYLVANIA 69

days, there is repetition to the thirteenth time, that
sacred number. At Philadelphia there is always some-
thing to be chimed, so that it seems almost as if it was
an Imperial or Popish city. The German Reformed
church, at the corner of Third- and Arch-street, has
also a fine steeple.

Among the other public buildings must be mentioned
especially the State House, a large but not a splendid
structure of two storeys. The fagade is of tiled brick,
with no particular decoration, but in comparison regu-
lar and handsome. In this case also the providing of a
large square in front has been neglected, and this
would have lent distinction. The lower storey con-
tains two large halls, one of which the Congress for-
merly made use of. Here they assembled for the first
time on the 2nd of Sept. 1774, and here they announced
the Act of Independence, 4th July 1776. Three limes
the Congress fled from this place — first, to Baltimore,
in the autumn of 1776, when the English army stood
on the banks of the Delaware in Jersey ; then, in the
summer of 1777, to Yorktown in Pensylvania, when
General Howe landed in Maryland ; and recently, be-
fore their own troops, to Princetown in New Jersey,
June 1783.

The other hall, on the ground floor, is for the use of
the Supreme Court of Judicature. Above, there are
two halls, for the General Assembly and for the Gov-
ernor and Council. Two wing-buildings are joined by
archways to the main building. A pretty large collec-
tion of books which belongs to a Library Company was
formerly installed in one of these wings but several
years ago was removed to a special building in Carpen-
ter-street, and at present the War Office occupies this

70 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

wing. The left wing is used as the office of the Comp-
troller General.

The new Jail is a large, but quite a plain building,
where the British prisoners of war found no great
cause to praise American philanthropy and magnanimity.
This building cost about 30,000 Pd. Pensyl. The old
jail stands, unattractive in design, in Market-street,
which is thus disfigured ; it is proposed to tear it down,*
since at all events there is sufficient room in the new
jail for the good and free citizens of the state.

At a little distance from the city stands the Pensyl-
vania Hospital, for the indigent sick and insane. This
is not yet complete, only one wing being built at the
present time. The whole will be extensive and accord-
ing to a fine plan. Meanwhile the space to be covered
is surrounded by a wall. There are only two sick
rooms, one for women above, and one for men below.
These rooms are high, airy, and long, and will be
kept, like the whole establishment, in a very cleanly
state. Half underground are the closed cells for mad-
men. There is a small medical library in the Overseer's
room. The Hospital has its own apothecary's shop ;
a young student attends to it, for which he receives
board and other perquisites. In an upper, corner
room, there is a splendid collection of anatomical en-
gravings and paintings, for the most part obstetrical,
the gift of the famous Dr. Fothergill + of London, who
was a Quaker and greatly interested in this establish-
ment undertaken by his fellow-believers. In addition,
there are three excellent metal-moulded designs, to be
used in obstetrical demonstrations also.

* This has since happened, and the space has been filled
with other, newbuilt houses.

PENSYLVANIA 71

This Hospital formerly had a fund of 10,000 Pd.
Pensyl. Current, for maintenance. But the war, and
especially the paper-money, entailed a considerable loss,
so that at the present time the established number of
sick cannot be cared for. Six Philadelphia physicians
take upon themselves the care of the hospital, without
charge, two every four months ; but by the arrangement
during two months, one of the two is to give his par-
ticular oversight, and the other may at his pleasure,
but both of them must be present at the reception and
discharge of a patient. A little old man from the
Neckar country paid down a moderate sum 23 years ago
and bought a berth for life in the hospital. He is now
in his Q8th year, having eaten out his franchise three
times over, and will live to be a hundred. I never saw
such dazzling, pure white hair as this ancient's, —
beard, eyebrows, the minute growth on the cheeks ;
which, with his costume of nothing but white, gave
him a very strange appearance.

Not far from the hospital is another public building
which in its plan and noble purpose does honor like-
wise to so young a state. This is the Bettering or
Working House, called also the House of Employ-
ment— not intended for malefactors but for the old, the
poor, and the maimed, where those still capable of work
could ply their several trades, and be useful to them-
selves and the community as spinners, weavers, knitters
&c., earning in this way a part of their keep. And
everything before the war was in the best of order, a
number of looms being kept constantly employed in
the house. Afterwards it was turned into a lazaretto
by the American troops who, more than the English,
were superstitious about desecrating churches by using

72 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

them for the sick. At the time I saw the house several
rooms were fitted as a hospital for women lying-in &c.
This building also is not complete, standing as two
separate wings, with adjuncts, between which the corps
de logis is to be raised.

The two buildings last mentioned stand a little way
from the city on the so-called ' Commons,' a region in-
cluded by the plan in the proposed limits of the city.
Formerly this Common was the property of the Penn
family which leased the ground, little by little, neces-
sary for the building of these houses ; and so, as late
as the year 1778 the tract was a desolate pasture grown
up in bush. But since the independent state has taken
over the proprietary rights, these Commons have been
divided into lots and sold, the necessary streets having
been indicated. The lots are for the most part en-
closed and for the time, are cultivated in vegetables and
grain ; here and there preparations are going forward
for raising houses on these lots, so soon, apparently, as
a peace shall be declared. Formerly as many as 200-
300 houses have been built in a year : house-building is
carried on rapidly and lightly, so that now and then
there may be seen two-storeyed houses conveniently en
promenade on rollers, brought from one end of the city
to the other, according as it seems best to the owners
to live in this quarter or that.

North of the city, in a part corresponding to Third-
street, stand the barracks * built by the English gov-

* No American city has walls and ramparts ; before the war
Philadelphia was not in any way fortified. Nor do there exist
the drawbridges and gates shown in Plates 6 and 12 of the
All gem. hist. Taschenbuch for 1784.

PENSYLVANIA 73

*

ernment for the troops stationed here at one time.
The building is in a miserable condition, because the
American troops which occupied them, (the rule held
throughout), were not the most orderly lodgers.

Promotion and furtherance of the sciences have long
since been a care with the state of Pensylvania. In the
year 1754 a College was founded for the instruction of
the young. The building stands at the corner of
Fourth and Arch-street, and intended for a different
purpose, is not of the distinguished, handsome appear-
ance of the College at New York. Particular attention
was given to the English language. A special teacher
imparted to the young the principles of their mother-
tongue, and disciplined them in correct reading and
pronunciation, not a superfluous exercise among youths
sent from such different provinces of the British Em-
pire. At the same time capable men gave instruction
in the Latin and Greek languages, Geography, Mathe-
matics, Logick, Rhetorick, History, Natural and
Moral Philosophy. Later a school of Medicine was
added. At the yearly public Commencements certain
ceremonies are observed. The Rector or Provost be-
gins these with several collects from the English lit-
urgy, and there follow sundry public exercises, partly
short speeches, partly disputations, in English or in
Latin. The Latin, here as with Englishmen every-
where, is so mangled, the vowels and consonants pro-
nounced according to their own usage, that it is not to
be understood by unanglicized ears. By an Act of the
Assembly, confirmed by the Congress, this College was
raised to a University in the year 1780. The Uni-
versity consists of two departments, the Academy or
lower preparatory schools for younger students, and

74 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the University proper, where the higher sciences, Phi-
losophy, the Mathematics, and Medicine are taught.
There are as yet no Professors of Law and Theology,
and the appointment of such will not easily be brought
about. Since no one religion is to be counted prevalent
here, none may be preferred through the choice of a
Professor. If a young man intends studying theology,
and has got a knowledge of the preparatory sciences
he can do nothing but travel to Europe, or betake him-
self to a minister of his religion and learn the neces-
sary through private instruction ; and it is so likewise
with students of the law. Among the trustees of this
University, besides other learned men, there have been
chosen ecclesiastics of these several religions, — Eng-
lish, Presbyterian, Catholic, Lutheran, and Reformed,
since the young from all parts are received as students
here, where nothing is taught respecting God and the
saints. Meanwhile, the University makes Doctors of
Theology, by diploma — Dr. Kunze, Professor of the
Oriental and German languages, was the first so
created, and very recently. At the same time General
Washington received the degree of a Doctor of the
Law, which he had so stoutly fought for.

The pay of the Professors of Philosophy, Languages
&c. is 300 Pd. Pensyl. Current. They call it, however,
a miserable pay and justifiably, because it is in arrears.

I made the acquaintance of Dr. Ewen, a meritorious
and learned man, who is the Professor of Natural and
Moral Philosophy. Mr. Davison is the Professor of
History, and his brother a Tutor in the Latin Language.
Dr. Smith, an erudite clergyman, who performed valu-
able service in the organization and endowment of the
college, was in some way wronged, and is now at the

PENSYLVANIA 75

new-established Washington College in the State of
Delaware. He is a skilled natural philosopher, and
gave lectures with much approbation on the experi-
mental physics at the time when the English army was
at Philadelphia.

The science of Medicine has the most Professors.
These are at present Drs. Bond, Shippen, Kuhn, Mor-
gan, and Rush. None of them has a fixed salary, but
they earn considerable sums, according to the number
of those attending their lectures. They do not lecture
during the summer, but, hitherto, only in the five winter
months, three or four times weekly. They have de-
termined for the future to restrict their lectures to a
term of three months, but to hold hours daily, and for
the reason that there are many practicioners coming in
from the county to hear lectures who cannot remain
long from home, and besides many young students
dread the expense of residence. Ordinarily they read
their lectures, and in the English language, in which
also examinations and disputations pro gradu are held.
For here it is regarded as superfluous to twaddle bad
Latin from a desk for an hour (or to listen), and to
muddle many hours with a language in which, later,
there is no occasion to palaver. Besides, most of the
books appearing in England on medical subjects are
written in English and it is these that are used in
America almost exclusively. At the creating of a Doc-
tor, in whatever faculty, all the Professors are present
and sign the patent. Candidates for the degree of Doc-
tor in Medicine, it is said, are exactly and strictly ex-
amined, and several have already been refused ; but,
with the degree, the practicioner has no advantage, in
honor or remuneration, over other practicioners and

76 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

bunglers, except as he himself chooses to make much
of his diploma.*

In America every man who drives the curing trade
is known without distinction as Doctor, as elsewhere
every person who makes verses is a poet — so there are
both black doctors and brown, and quacks in abun-
dance.f

Since this University lies nearer the West Indies
than any of the European universities, it is hoped that
young students from thence will now resort to Phila-
delphia rather than take the longer way to England.
But this will probably not come about at once. In the
University building there is a collection of books
neither large nor complete, containing however several

* " In a quarrel of the Connecticut Doctors with the hud-
dlers and quacks of the colony, it was the purpose of the
Doctors to allow no ungraduated person, unless first exam-
ined by them, to visit the sick or to prescribe medicines. The
Assembly of the province declared against the Doctors, call-
ing their Association a monopoly which was enriching the
learned. To the reply of the Doctors the Assembly, of 1766,
returned no answer but the following: 'Medicine can effect
nothing without the blessing of God. The quacks do not pre-
scribe unless a minister has first prayed for a blessing, whereas
the Doctors ascribe all the good to the medicine and none to
the blessing prayed for.' Every person, as before, had the
liberty of healing disease." Vid., Beytr'dg. zur Lander und
Volkerkunde (Neuest Zustand von Connecticut), II, 197.

f According to late advices, the physicians of Philadelphia
have come together in a society (after the manner of the
London and Edinburg Colleges of Physicians), the chief
object of which will be to contribute to the diffusion of medi-
cal knowledge through the publishing of their observations
and discussions. The same has happened in New York, and
perhaps the good example will be followed by the physicians
of the other states.

PENSYLVANIA 77

fine works and mathematical and physical instruments.
The most conspicuous work of art here is the Planet-
system or Orrery * of the famous Mr. Rittenhouse, a
detailed description of which is to be found in the
Transactions of the Philosophical Society. I had not
the pleasure of seeing the whole of this Orrery ; only
that part was there showing the course of the moon.
Mr. Rittenhouse had taken apart the remainder and
transferred it to his house, in order to make certain
improvements.

Public Schools and Academies are established also
in several of the other provinces : at Cambridge near
Boston, at New Haven in Connecticut, at New York,
at Williamsburg in Virginia, and in Delaware a new
college called Washington College ; however Philadel-
phia can boast of an advance still more considerable in
the prosecution and diffusion of the useful and benefi-
cent sciences. That is to say, there is established here
a Philosophical Society which owes its origin to the
industrious and fruitful genius of Dr. Franklin, known
for science and statecraft equally.

More than twenty years ago Dr. Franklin with cer-
tain of his learned friends founded a society of like
character. But a number of members getting in who
were pretty ignorant but proud enough to desire a
place among the philosophers, the society fell into a
decline. So in the year 1769 a new plan was formed,
and without recourse to all the members enrolled at
that time. Those excluded, out of revenge began to

* Lord Orrery was the patron of a certain Rowley who pre-
pared the first apparatus of this sort in England; hence the
name given all similar apparatuses.

78 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

recruit for themselves at the same time and elected
members indiscriminately, so as by a majority (among
which it was hoped a few good names might have been
fished in) to get the start of the new society. After
some time it was found that in behoof of the sciences it
would be better to form a union, and so it happened ;
but the spirit of party once aroused was not to be
checked immediately — by a majority of votes useless
members again got in, and several of the older mem-
bers felt injured and resigned. Notwithstanding these
unavoidable circumstances the progress of the worthy
undertaking was happily not stopped. In the year 1771
appeared the first volume * of the Transactions of the
American Society, in quarto, containing several pieces
on the subject of natural history. Of many other
papers ready for the press, nothing has so far appeared,
the war having prevented ; but the Congress, still inter
arma and of an undetermined sovereignty, did not
neglect to cast a glance at these musas silentes, and by
a solemn act was pleased to give the society confirma-
tion and new life.f

The President is Dr. Benjamin Franklin, but the

* The second volume of the Transactions of this Society
appeared in 1786.

t Extract from a communication from Philadelphia, 1787 —
" Another society has recently been established here, which
concerns itself with political enquiries. Its objects will be the
elucidation of the science of government and the furtherance
of human happiness. This society is regulated on the norm
of the European philosophical societies ; its papers and con-
tributions will be published annually so as to preserve many
valuable works which otherwise would be lost in the public
prints. The honorable Dr. Franklin is President of this
society."

PENSYLVANIA 79

Vice-President is Dr. Bond, a meritorious Hippocratic,
in his 7Oth year of great cheerfulness and activity of
mind, who has for many years practiced his art at
Philadelphia with much success. I had several times
the pleasure of enjoying his society. He was at one
time the appointed Health-Physician at Philadelphia.
The duty of this officer was to inspect all ships bringing
in servants and adventurers from Europe. For the
greed of skippers often tempted them to stopple too
many passengers together, thus giving cause for dan-
gerous maladies whereby very many of these poor
people were done for without ever seeing the land for
which, in the hope of better fortune, they had given up
home. Dr. Bond assured me that on several occasions
ships had come to port with so much malignant tinder
stowed in that no one could have stayed on board 24
hours without falling a sacrifice. But by precautionary
measures the spread of such poisons was prevented.
No person was allowed on land until he had first been
cleansed and all his old clothes thrown away ; and then
those landing were sent to an isolated spot on shore
for a short quarantaine. Contagious diseases are ex-
tremely rare in America, almost entirely unknown in-
deed, not reckoning the small-pox and what follows the
gallantries of armies and fleets. In the country the
people live scattered, among shade trees ; in the towns
there is no crowding, almost every family living in its
own house, and everything very clean. However, Dr.
Bond once observed a contagious fever in Philadelphia,
which had its origin in a space between Water-street
and the Market where some dead sturgeons and other
filth had been left neglected by the inefficient police of
that time. This fever, although extremely contagious,

80 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

was neither vehement in its attacks nor dangerous, and
spread no farther than the square in which it began,
but within that space nobody easily escaped who was
exposed as much as six hours.

In the year 1761 Dr. Bond observed a sort of in-
fluenza which followed a regular course almost
throughout America — a fever with an itching of the
skin, accompanied by a cough and an acrid running at
the nose and eyes. It showed itself first in some of the
West India islands, then in the Bermudas ; in the spring
it appeared at Halifax, and thence came down to Bos-
ton, and so to the south, through Rhode Island, New
York, Philadelphia, Baltimore &c, visiting all the larger
towns along the coast without being affected by any
dissimilarities of wind or weather, appearing to stop
in North Carolina not before July of the same year.
It was remarked that at the same time horses were
attacked by a similar fever, with running at the nose
and eyes, but with happier results, since the smiths
made cures more quickly and surely than the physicians
were able to do. The cure for the horses was, they
were tied and burning sulphur held before the nose for
15 minutes, by which treatment they all got completely
rid of the disease.

Among many other observations of this worthy man
the following account of an extraordinary worm is the
most astonishing. A horrible monster some 20 inches
long and on an average as thick as a man's wrist
worked for 18 months no small mischief in a woman's
body, ate its way through to the liver where it con-
trived a measurable cavity, continued through the duc-
tus hepaticus and the choledochus, taking leave shortly
after by the fundament — whereupon the woman died

PENSYLVANIA 81

suddenly. Dr. Bond has described the entire worm and
its history for the London medical commentaries.

Dr. Benjamin Rush is the Professor of Chymistry,
and is a very favorite practicioner — a man whose agree-
able manners, oratorical fluency, and flowery style abun-
dantly recommend him to his fellow-countrymen. He
is the author of several opuscula of a medical nature,
but also appears frequently as a political writer. Sev-
eral sheets of his on the newest methods of inoculating
for the small-pox and of treating that disease have
appeared recently in a German translation. During
the war he was for a time Physician-in-Chief of the
American army and frequently had occasion to observe
the fatal course of the lockjaw + in cases of insignifi-
cant wounds, although opium was administered heav-
ily. This led him to the opinion that the cause might
be found in an extreme weakness of the body. There-
fore his treatment was to administer Peruvian bark and
wine, at the same time making incisions in the wound
and applying a blister of Spanish fly. Results were
incomparably better. He intends himself to publish,
with other material, his observations and conclusions in
this matter, unless publication of them is managed
earlier in some other way. The idea is confirmed by
the comparisons made between the wounded of the two
armies, British and French, after the siege of York in
Virginia. Most of the wounded in the French army,
but especially those of West India regiments, were at-
tacked with the lockjaw and died, although their in-
juries may have been slight, whereas in the British
hospitals a fatal outcome was seldom remarked. It is
a known fact that soldiers from the West Indies always
show a weak state of health, and the remainder of the
6

82 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

French troops, (having made in the height of summer
a long and tedious march from New England to
Virginia), must have been in a weakened condition.
Lockjaw was not frequently the case at Philadelphia,
and was as seldom seen at New York, among the
British troops.

Some time ago an Irish woman made several fortu-
nate cures of blood-spitting, by the use of common
kitchen-salt. She recommended for patients suffering
with this malady a teaspoonful of salt every morning,
to be gradually increased to a tablespoonful several
times a day. In the more positive cases of blood-spit-
ting, several doses must be given, often repeated until
the symptoms cease, which will unfailingly happen in
a short time, it is claimed. Dr. Rush about thirty years
ago learned of this treatment, and has made use of it
since in more than thirty cases, and invariably with
good results. The cure is effectual also in bleedings at
the nose and in floodings, but is excellent for blood-
spitting. Only in two cases was there no good effect,
to wit, with a man who was an old and incorrigible
drinker, and with another who from distrust of so
simple a means, would not take the salt in sufficient
quantity. Something similar has been long known
respecting saltpetre and sal-ammoniac, but these being
not so generally at hand, the practice with kitchen salt
deserved mention.

The French physicians and surgeons, here as well
as in the West Indies, were very much disinclined to
give bark in cases of intermittent fever. The Americans
were always sooner done with their patients, whereas
the French showed a preference rather for enfeebling
theirs to the skeleton point; finally indeed brought

PENSYLVANIA 83

them round, but very slowly and at the risk of frequent
relapses and stoppages of the bowels, sequelae of long-
standing fevers very much more certain to occur if
bark is not given in time. Dr. Rush learned of a quack
doctor the use of blistering plaisters for obstinate cold
fevers, or agues, and his experience convinced him of
the value of the treatment. The blisters are applied to
both wrists and seldom fail of effect. (Several bands
about the hand have long been used by our German
country-people.) Dr. Rush in this way cured a Vir-
ginia doctor of a tertian which he had been dragging
about for three months, and he in turn used the treat-
ment again in Virginia with good results.

Dr. Morgan is Professor of the Practice of Medi-
cine, a man no less agreeable than well-informed. He
is a Fellow of the Royal Society at London and of
several other learned societies, and has travelled in
France and Italy. Chiefly through his efforts the medi-
cal school at Philadelphia was established. At the be-
ginning of the war he was Inspector General of the
American hospitals, but as a consequence of intrigues
resigned this place ; however, not before bringing upon
himself rude treatment on the part of the Congress. He
was one of the first men who at that time ventured to
expose the assumed infallibility of the Congress, his
action springing from the stedfastness of his character
and the consciousness of his own rectitude. At his
house I saw a collection of great bones brought from
the Ohio, which Mr. Peale was just then painting,
natural size, for Counsellor Michaelis.

Dr. Kuhn, of German origin, is the Professor of
Botany + and Materia Medica. He is a disciple of the
lamented Linnaeus, who named an order of plants in

84 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

his honor, the Kuhnia, — which Dr. Kuhn himself has
not seen, although it exists in Pensylvania. The pro-
fessorship of Botany is an empty title, since through-
out the summer there is neither lecturing nor botaniz-
ing. That the Congress can be obstinate in small
matters also, Mr. Kuhn has reason to know. During
the war he was for a time absent from America, and
coming from St. Thomas in the West Indies, a neutral
island, landed at New York from an English ship.
The Congress, to whom this scarcely seemed the most
direct way, would not permit him to come to Phila-
delphia, and he was obliged to sail back to the West
Indies, and make the return voyage in an American
ship.

Dr. Chovet, a learned old man of much reading, and
in his 7Qth year full of life and enthusiasm, although not
a Professor has at times lectured on Anatomy, his
favorite study. He is particularly known for his beau-
tiful wax-work collection, + largely his own fabrication
and designed to illustrate the parts of the human body.
He has, in addition, a considerable number of fine
anatomical preparations and a notable and rare collec-
tion of books.

I should tax the patience of my readers by an enu-
meration of all the Aesculapians and learned men of
Philadelphia. Those mentioned are the most conspic-
uous of the number there, where the labors of the
physician are as richly rewarded as at any place. The
yearly in-take of the most of these men is reckoned at
several thousand pounds Pensyl. Current. But their
greatest profit arises from the private dispensation of
remedies ; * to which end each physician of large prac-

* There are, besides, several apothecarys and dealers in

PENSYLVANIA 85

tice has a select stock of drugs and keeps a few young
men at hand to prepare prescriptions and assist in visit-
ing patients. By private reading or academical in-
struction, these young men contrive to increase their
knowledge and so fit themselves for practice on their
own account.

I must mention here two worthy men of whom Phila-
delphia boasts.

The name of Mr. Rittenhouse is known throughout
America, as it deserves to be. He is perhaps 50 years
of age, of modest and agreeable manners, open and
engaging. His parents or grandparents came from
Germany to Pensylvania ; he himself was apprenticed
as a watch-maker, but without the least assistance he
has made himself a complete astronomer, by his own
brains and industry. In the Orrery already mentioned
as at the College in Philadelphia he has given a gen-
erally admired proof of his mechanical talents. An-
other work of this sort prepared by him is at Princeton.
He has sketched a new plan for a third, a much im-
proved and simpler apparatus, but he himself does not
know whether he can ever bring it to completion.
They have made him a Collector of the Revenue and so
have quite snatched him from the paths of science.

Mr. du Sumitiere* of Geneva, a painter, is almost

drugs at Philadelphia — among others a German shop where
the ' Pensylvania-Dutch ' farmer, to his great comfort, is sup-
plied all the silly doses he has been accustomed to in the
fatherland.

* He has since died, and his collections are broken up. The
Assembly of Pensylvania threw out the bill for purchasing
them for the University, although the sum necessary would
have been very moderate.

86 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the only man at Philadelphia who manifests a taste for
natural history. Also he possesses the only collection,
a small one, of natural curiosities — and a not incon-
siderable number of well-executed drawings of Ameri-
can birds, plants, and insects. It is to be regretted that
his activities, and his enthusiasm for collecting, should
be embarrassed by domestic circumstances, and that he
should fail of positive encouragement from the Ameri-
can publick. In his collection of curiosities, which is
adorned with many specimens of North American
fauna and a few Otaheitian, the Americans take most
pleasure in a pair of French courier-boots and a Hes-
sian fuseleer's cap.

There had been begun in the so-called Fish House,
beyond the Schuylkill, a very respectable collection of
the natural products of America, but this was quite
destroyed in the year 1777 by the British army, at that
time passing.

Libraries also Philadelphia possesses, those institu-
tions contributory to the general enlightenment. A taste
for reading is pretty wide-spread. People of all classes
use the library in Carpenter-street, of which I have
already made mention. Dr. Franklin, supported par-
ticularly by Quakers, began this library as early as
1732 by the foundation of a Reading-society. The
rooms are open to the public twice a week in the after-
noon, but the members of the society have access every
day. Books may be borrowed on the deposit of a read-
ing-fee. The number of books is not very great, but
there are in the collection many fine English works and
also some Latin and French books. Two librarians are
installed who, however, could not always find books
named in the catalogue. It was not the misfortune of

PENSYLVANIA 87

this collection to be plundered and scattered by soldiers,
the case with the library at New York and with that
in Rhode Island. In an adjoining room several mathe-
matical and physical instruments are kept, as also
a collection of American minerals, but with no indica-
tion of name or place of discovery.

Another fine collection, especially rich in medical
books and in the Greek and Latin authors was given to
the public, in 1752, by Mr. Logan, a Quaker, who had
been at great pains and expense in the gathering of it.
At this time, I know not why, this library is kept under
lock and key, and is used by no one.

Notwithstanding, of writers of books, as well as of
other manufacturers, there are still few in America, but
there is no lack of printers at Philadelphia who are at
the same time book-dealers. I learned of the following :
Messrs. Aitkin, Bradford, + Hall & Seller, Dunlap,
Cruikshank, Baylie, Towne, Bell (who is besides an
antiquary and frequently holds auctions) — Mr. Cist
and Mr. Melchior Steiner + print in German. The
chief business of these is the printing of newspapers,
announcements, political brochures, and Acts of Assem-
bly. There appear 8-10 newspapers, weekly sheets in
large folio ; of them all the Independent Chronicle is
the favorite on account of its freedom in regard to pub-
lic affairs. Liberty of the press was one of the funda-
mental laws which the states included, expressly and
emphatically, in the programmes of their new govern-
ments. It arouses the sympathies to see how often the
Congress is mishandled in these sheets. The financier,
Bob Morris, recently found himself slandered by an
article in the Independent Chronicle and vigorously be-
gan process at law, but the public at large supported

88 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the printer and as free citizens asserted their right to
communicate to one another in this way their opinions
and judgments regarding the conduct of public serv-
ants. Since not all transactions (even of private
citizens) come under amenability to the law, zealous
patriots can use the press as a terrible scourge, for
giving timely warnings, for bringing officials to their
duty, for criticising abuses and shortcomings, instruct-
ing their fellow-citizens in all manner of things — when
elsewhere they would be free scarcely to whisper the
burden. But it must be said that through the misuse
of so special a privilege great harm may arise. How
many upright and innocent characters are roughly and
prejudicially treated under this shield of the freedom
of the press.

English books are reprinted here, but are very little
cheaper than the originals, and besides are often very
badly executed.* Reprinting therefore is restricted to
new books the authors of which enjoy a great hon-
orarium, that is to say, dear books. Books of edifica-
tion, school-books, bibles &c can always be had cheaper
from Europe, since paper and wages stand at a high
price in America, and the Americans have a fancy for
well and finely printed books, such as the English com-
monly are. Books brought in from England are all
bound (they may not be otherwise exported) and form
a very considerable article of trade. German religious
books come especially from Frankfort on Main. Since
the peace, Dutch and German ships have brought in a
great quantity of all manner of publications.

From what has been set down here it will be readily

* Types, ink, paper &c are had from Europe.

PENSYLVANIA 89

seen that the sciences are known and valued in
America, and that efforts are making to further them,
although no one anxiously studies as a means of liveli-
hood. The fine arts, on the contrary, have not yet made
a significant progress. Amateurs and connaisseurs
hitherto have had adequate opportunity to supply them-
selves with works of art, paintings and copper-prints,
from Europe. The genius of America, however, is
beginning to show itself in these matters. Philadelphia
possesses in Mr. Peale an artist, native-born, who may
be placed alongside of many in the old world. In an
open saloon at his house, lovers and students of art
may examine at any time a considerable number of his
works. This collection consists for the most part of
paintings of famous persons : Washington life-size,
with the British standards at his feet — Franklin, Paine,
Morris — most of the Major Generals of the American
army — all the Presidents of the Congress ; and others
distinguished in the new states are to be found here.
Several painters and artists of mark born in America
have settled elsewhere. Mr. West, and Mr. Du-
chesne + were particularly mentioned to me, and a
young man of promise, Mr. Copley. America as well
as the old world has its geniuses, but these hitherto
(conditions having been such as to assure easier and
richer returns in trade and agriculture) have remained
unknown and undeveloped.

America has produced as yet no sculptors or en-
gravers. But stone-cutters find a pretty good market.
Mr. Bauer and Mr. Hafelein, at Philadelphia, make
a business of preparing tomb-stones, chimney-pieces,
and other heavy decorative work, using the common
marble of those parts. A foot of worked marble costs

90 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

8-12 shillings Pensyl. Current. Mr. Bauer also makes
mill-stones, which are split in Salisbury Township,
Bucks county, of a rather rough grain, extremely hard.
A stone 10 in. in diameter and 14 in. thick costs 20
Pd. Pensyl. Current. He showed me a beautiful brown-
ish-yellow marble, diversly flecked, which came from
the region about Easton on the Delaware.

Music was before this last war still quite in its in-
fancy. Besides the organists in the towns and the
schoolmasters in the country there were no professional
musicians. A darky with a broken and squeezy fiddle
made the finest dance-music for the most numerous
assembly. Piano-fortes and such instruments were in
the houses of the rich only so much fashionable furni-
ture. But during the war and after it straggling mu-
sicians from the various armies spread abroad a taste
for music, and now in the largest towns concerts are
given, and conventional balls. In the item of dancing-
masters France has supplied the necessary.

During the first days of my stay at Philadelphia, I
visited among others Mr. Bartram, the son of the
worthy and meritorious botanist (so often mentioned
by Kalm) who died six years ago at a great age. Bar-
tram the elder was merely a gardener, but by his own
talents and industry, almost without instruction became
the first botanist in America, honored with their corre-
spondence by Linnaeus, Collinson, and other savans.
He was to be sure more collector than student, but by
his enthusiasm and love for plants many new ones were
discovered. He made many long journeys on foot
through the mountain country, through several of the
provinces, and (with Kalm and Conrad Weisser*)

* A German universally known and loved among the Indians,

PENSYLVANIA 91

into the interior of Canada. After the peace of 1762,
when both the Floridas were apportioned to Great
Britain, Bartram received a commission from the King
to visit those two provinces. Contrary to his own pur-
pose his journal was published, but Bartram should
not be judged by that dry record. Whoever wishes
more information regarding him may find it in Hector
St. John's Sketches of American Manners. The Bar-
tram garden is situated on an extremely pleasant slope
across the Schuylkill and not far from its junction with
the Delaware. An old but neat house of stone, on the
river side supported rather than adorned by several
granite pillars, was the residence of this honored and
contented old man. The son, the present owner of the
garden, follows the employments of his father, and
maintains a very respectable collection of sundry North
American plants, particularly trees and shrubs, the
seeds and shoots of which he sends to England and
France at a good profit. He is not so well known to
the botanical world as was his father, but is equally
deserving of recognition. When young he spent sev-
eral years among the Florida Indians, and made a col-
lection of plants in that region ; his unprinted manu-
script on the nations and products of that country
should be instructive and interesting. In the small
space of his garden there are to be found assembled
really a great variety of American plants, among others,
most of their vines and conifers, species of which very
little is generally known. The Sarracenia and several
other marsh growths do very well here in dry beds —

and therefore at one time indispensable on all important occa-
sions as interpreter and coadjutor.

92 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

confirmation of what I have often observed with as-
tonishment, namely, that American plants grow any-
where with little or no reference to the place of their
origin.*

Bartram senior in his travels had collected as well
all manner of rocks and minerals which are now kept
in a box without any system intermixed with European
specimens, especially Swedish, sent over by Linnaeus
Archiater. The son showed them me when I was a
second time at Philadelphia and able from my own
knowledge to distinguish what was American ; but Mr.
Bartram was not to be persuaded to sell me these at
any price, cherishing- in them the memory of his father's
industry.

Nearer to Philadelphia, but also on the farther bank
of the Schuylkill, there lives a botanist who is the equal
of Bartram neither in knowledge nor spirit, although
he makes more a-do — Mr. Young, by birth a Hessian,
who in a strange way has gotten to himself the title of
Botanist to the Queen. His father lived at this same
place, by what he could make on his bit of land ; the
son was frequently in Bartram's garden, and found
amusement in the variegated blossoms. One day, (so
I was told at Philadelphia) , he sent to London a paquet
of plants which he had collected in the garden, with a
letter addressed To the Queen. He had placed the
paquet unobserved in the bag which is usually kept
open at the Coffee-house by ships shortly to clear.
Arrived at London the skipper was in a quandary

* Since my return I have seen American trees and shrubs
more than once, in England and Germany, thriving on dry
soils, whereas in America it had been my observation that
these varieties were to be found only in swampy places.

PENSYLVANIA 93

«

whether to deliver the paquet, of which he knew noth-
ing, what it contained or who had sent it ; but after
consultation with his friends despatched it as directed.
The Queen, supposing this to be an extraordinary hope-
ful lad, had the youthful Young brought to London
and placed under the care of the well-known Dr. Hill.
300 Pd. Sterl. was appropriated annually for his use,
and after a time Young came back to America, with
the title, with a large peruque and a small stipend, and
fulfilled none of the hopes he had aroused. Some
years ago, indeed, he had printed at Paris an exhaustive
catalogue of plants presumably in his garden ; but I
found that his garden is very extensive — if this or that
plant of the catalogue is not to be found in his garden
he answers with his customary bombast that all
America, field and forest, is his garden.*

The taste for gardening is, at Philadelphia as well
as throughout America, still in its infancy. There are not
yet to be found many orderly and interesting gardens.
Mr. Hamilton's near the city is the only one deserving
special mention. Such neglect is all the more astonish-
ing, because so many people of means spend the most
part of their time in the country. Gardens as at present
managed are purely utilitarian — pleasure-gardens have
not yet come in, and if perspectives are wanted one
must be content with those offered by the landscape,
not very various, what with the still immense forests.

* Recently Mr. Humphrey Marshall has made himself known
by his American Grove, + or Alphabetical list of all North
American trees and shrubs, published at Philadelphia in 8vo.
1785. He lives in Pensylvania, in Chester county, and offers
to furnish at a moderate price collections of seeds or of living
plants noticed in his catalogue.

94 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

The fruitful warmth of the climate obviates indeed
very many difficulties which we have to contend with
in securing garden-growths — and makes careless gar-
deners. So long as people are content merely with the
customary products of northern Europe, these may be
had at small pains ; but with this management the ad-
vantages are lost which would be afforded by a better,
that is to say, many of the products natural to a warmer
climate might be had with a little care. Most of the
vegetables and flowers of northern Europe -have been
introduced. Many of these do well and have even been
improved, but others grow worse under careless man-
agement. American gardening has nothing of the
characteristic to show, beyond several varieties and
dubieties of pumpkins, squashes, and gourds, the cul-
tivation of which was usual among the Indians. Sev-
eral of our vegetables were first introduced by the Ger-
man troops, e. g. kohlrabi, broccoli, and the black
raddish. But certain of our good fruits are lacking,
(or at least are very seldom seen and then not the best
sorts), such as, plums, apricots, walnuts, good pears,
the domestic chestnut, gooseberries, and others, and
for no other reason but neglect to make the proper
efforts, with patience and attention — for the American
cares little for what does not grow of itself, and is
satisfied with the great yields of his cherry, apple, and
peach trees, without giving a thought to possible and
often necessary betterments. They know little or noth-
ing of grafting and inoculations, or use such practices
very seldom. Much, without sufficient ground, is
charged to the disadvantages of the climate, and people
have let themselves be too easily frightened away from
gardening, when the trouble was that nothing of the

PENSYLVANIA 95

first quality has been produced, because of thin soil,
bad seed, and unskilful cultivation.

The taste for garden-flowers is likewise very re-
stricted ; however, a few florists are to be found. Dr.
Glentworth, + formerly a surgeon in the army, has a
numerous collection of beautiful bulbs and other
flowers which he maintains by yearly importations
from Holland. But as a rule one finds in the gardens
nothing but wild jasmine, flower-gentles, globe- ama-
ranths, hibiscus syriacus, and other common things.
The beautiful gilliflower, the ranunculus, auricula &c.,
of these they are little aware. At Dr. Glentworth's I
saw another strange phenomenon, which I mention here
in passing, i. e. a cross between a cock and a duck. The
beast was a perfect hen in the forepart, but in the rear
constructed like a duck ; its feet were half-webbed and
set far back, so that its walk was a waddle, penguin-
fashion, almost upright. A person present told me he
had seen two similar bastards in the West Indies.
They are, however, rare, notwithstanding many cocks
seem to show a preference for ducks.

Deformities and misgrowths, especially of the hu-
man species, are rarer in America (where everything
is truer to nature) than elsewhere. An American
dwarf exhibited himself recently at Philadelphia ; I had
already seen him at York. He was born in Jersey,
was 23 years old, and his height 3 ft. 4 in., London
measure, with the exception of the head pretty well
formed to scale. It is worth the trouble to be a dwarf
in America : he showed himself for not less than a half-
dollar Spanish for grown people, and the half of that
for children. — Another rare phenomenon is an adult
with an immoderately large head, so heavy that he

96 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

can never raise it ; he lives in Jersey near to the Passaik
Falls and has lain 27 years, his age, in the cradle.*

The present Governor of Pensylvania, Mr. Dickin-
son, is known as a man of keen intellect, although his
enemies of which he has many, (governors of a repub-
lic may have them without much trouble), prefer to
paint him in dark colors. He showed his spirit and
capacity, politically, by a collection of Letters under
the fanciful name of An American Farmer but these
are not to be confused with another collection, of a
similar title, Letters of an American Cultivator. + I
desired to make him my duty, and in order to be re-
ceived by him I had recourse to a physician of my ac-
quaintance, who excused himself on the ground that
he had been against the Governor at the last election.
I then went to an American Major with the same re-
quest, and he likewise excused himself because at the
last rising of the troops he had had some difficulty with
the Governor over their pay. I betook myself therefore
to a Quaker confidently believing I had come to the
right man since Dickinson himself is of the Society of
Friends ; but my Quaker assured me he had nothing
to do with the Governor, and that my intended courtesy
was superfluous. Finally I sought out another doctor
who also thought my proposed visit unnecessary and
told me the Governor was ill. So I let the matter stop

* " His name is Peter van Winkle, born 1754, from the feet
to the chin he measures 4 ft. 5 in., from the chin to the poll a
foot precisely, from the chin to the root of the nose 7 in.,
thence over the head to the neck 25 in., round the temples 32
in." Further information has been published by Counsellor

Michaelis in Med. Beytrdg. Michaelis, Med. prakt.

Bibl. I, 91.

PENSYLVANIA 97

with that, but regretted I could not meet one whose
vainglory, not satisfied with the government of so con-
siderable a province as Pensylvania was at the same
time putting in for another, that of the state of Dela-
ware. But this may have been from lofty patriotism.
The inhabitants of Philadelphia seemed to me to
have retained something of that suspicious reserve
which policy compelled them to adopt at the beginning
of the war, and while it lasted, in their dealings with
strangers — behavior due in the first instance partly to
fear, partly to aversion for political dissentients. It has
been said for a long time of Philadelphia that one
might not gain a footing in houses there so easily as
in the neighboring York, the explanation of which was
chiefly that the Quakers excluded all but their own
particular friends, and this behavior, imitated among
the bulk of the inhabitants, has in some sort remained a
characteristick. The war, however, which must be
thanked in America for so many things, and the num-
ber of Europeans present in the country (especially the
French) have worked already a positive revolution in
America. Burnaby remarked with regret that people
were not very courteous and hospitable to strangers ;
he would have less cause to say as much now. But I
must acknowledge that those among the Philadelphians
who have visited foreign countries are incomparably
more engaging and polite than others who hold court-
esy to be reserve; those who have travelled have
learned by experience how obliging even the smallest
attention is to a stranger, and they practice what else-
where has pleased them. Not so, those entirely home-
bred. Two of my friends, Englishmen, came from
York to see Philadelphia and found rooms in a house
7

98 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

where strangers were customably taken in. It so hap-
pened that an American traveller, by the exchange of
a room, made place for the two Englishmen. The lady
of the house promised that the matter would be so
arranged, but at the same time unreservedly remarked,
' you know/ (as if a thing of common knowledge in
Philadelphia) , ' you know that people do not like to
inconvenience themselves to oblige a stranger.'

The behavior of the Philadelphians is for the rest
only one among the consequences of the spirit of free-
dom, a British inheritance strengthened by removal to
American soil and still more by the successful outcome
of the war. From of old these were strong and active
republicans. Freedom has been, since many years, the
genius and the vow of Pensylvania and of all the
North American states. Many and various as have
been the reasons assigned for the outbreak of the war
and the separation of the colonies from the mother-
country, it has seemed to me that the true and only
reason has been overlooked. There was a set purpose
in America to make the land free and any pretext would
serve. England might have removed one burden after
another, might have given encouragement after en-
couragement, but fresh excuses would have been con-
stantly sought and found so as to bring about a final
breach. It is a matter of wonder to me, in this con-
nection, that nobody mentions the prediction spoken of
by Kalm * + who heard it as early as 1748 during his
stay in America and gives it as a thing well-known.
" I have often, he remarks, heard it said openly by Eng-
lishmen, and not only by those born in America but

* Reisen. Deutsche Ausg. II, 401.

PENSYLVANIA 99

also by those recently come from Europe, that the
English plantations in northern America would in 30-
50 years form a separate kingdom, quite independent
of England."

People think, act, and speak here precisely as it
prompts them ; the poorest day-laborer on the bank of
the Delaware holds it his right to advance his opinion,
in religious as well as political matters, with as much
freedom as the gentleman or the scholar. And as yet
there is to be found as little distinction of rank among
the inhabitants of Philadelphia as in any city in the
world. No one admits that the Governor has any par-
ticular superiority over the private citizen except in
so far as he is the right hand of the law, and to the
law, as occasion demands is respect paid, through
the Governor ; for the law equally regards and deals
with all citizens. Riches make no positive material
difference, because in this regard every man expects at
one time or another to be on a footing with his rich
neighbor, and in this expectation shows him no knavish
reverence, but treats him with an open, but seemly,
familiarity. Posts of honor confer upon the holder
merely a conditional superiority, necessary in the eyes
of every discreet man as a support of order and gov-
ernment. All rank and precedence is for the rest the
acquirement of personal worth. Rank of birth is not
recognized, is resisted with a total force.

Luxury, which is unavoidable in enlightened free
nations, prevails here also, without, however, any dis-
possession of industry and thrift, being largely re-
stricted to the luxury of the body ; virtuosity, sensibility
and other manifestations of soul-luxury are not yet be-
come conspicuous here.

100 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

The taste in dress is chiefly English, extremely
simple, neat, and elegant. The finest cloth and the
finest linen are the greatest adornment. Only a few
young gentlemen, especially those of the army, approxi-
mate to the French cut, but they by no means give them-
selves over to the ostentatious frippery by which, here
also, certain Frenchmen are distinguished. The
women, as everywhere, seeking to please allow them-
selves more variety of ornament. Every year dressed
dolls are brought them from Europe, which, silent, give
the law of the mode. However, distinction of rank
among the feminine half, is not striking as a result of
any distinct costume ; in the item of dress each selects
according to her taste, means, and circumstances.

The women of North America have long since been
the subject of particular praise, + regarding their vir-
tue and good conduct, rendered them by both travellers
and the homekeeping. It is not easy to find a woman,
remarks one of their panegyrists, who makes a parade
of unbelief, although they are not always members of
any particular sect. Gallant adventures are little
known and still less practiced in this last refuge of
virtue pursued. Conjugal disloyalties, on either side,
are punished by ineffaceable infamy, and the culprit,
however protected by wealth, position, or other advan-
tage, soon finds himself without honor, distrusted.
This is no extravagant praise, and the Abbe Robin
himself admits that his countrymen did not in America
meet with their habitual good fortune in affairs of
gallantry. The feminine part of America is none the
less made for pleasure and partakes, and Rochefou-
cault would have likely assigned another reason for
their virtue. Thus, a traditional practice of bundling,

PENSYLVANIA 101

the vogue in certain parts of America,* especially New
England, + might well give our European fair another
idea of western restraint. That is to say, it is a custom
there for young men to pay visits to their mistresses ;
and the young woman's good name is no ways im-
paired, so that the visit takes place by stealth, or after
they are actually betrothed ; on the contrary, the par-
ents are advised, and these meetings happen when the
pair is enamored and merely wish to know each other
better. The swain and the maiden spend the evening
and the night undisturbed by the hearth, or it may be
go to bed together without scruple ; in the latter case,
with the condition that they do not take off their clothes ;
and if the anxious mother has any doubt of the strict
virtue of her daughter, it is said she takes the precau-
tion of placing both the daughter's feet in one large
stocking, and in the morning looks to see if this
guardian is still properly fixed, but the inquiry is com-
monly superfluous, the circumstance having rarely any
other consequence than in regular betrothal, which is
the object had in view in allowing the meeting. When
it is said in praise of America that there are seldom
other consequences due to the intimate association of
the sexes, it must be remarked that people there gen-
erally marry with less forethought and earlier, and that
in almost every house there are negresses, slaves, who
count it an honor to bring a mulatto into the world.

Philadelphia boasted once of its especially good police,
and knew nothing of tumultuary and mutinous gather-

* Burnaby noticed it in Virginia. Vid. Travels through the
Middle Colonies of North America, p. 170. [Burnaby's note
is in regard to a different custom, cf. reprint, 3d ed., New
York 1904, p. 142]

102 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

ings of the people which were not seldom the case with
their more northern neighbors. This advantageous
character (due, like everything else good, to the peace-
ful principles of the Quakers), was lost during the war,
when mobs often took possession of the city and par-
ticularly mishandled the Quakers in their quiet houses.

To be industrious and frugal, at least more so than
the inhabitants of the provinces to the South, is the
recognized and unmistakeable character of the Phila-
delphians and in great part of all those inhabiting
Pensylvania. Without boasting, I daresay it is the fact
that, in conjunction with the Quakers, the German-
Pensylvania nation has had the largest share in the
forming of this praiseworthy folk-character.

The German nation forms a considerable part, prob-
ably more than a third, of the state of Pensylvania.
The Quakers, who at first gave the tone in political
affairs, strove for that reason to win to their side the
Germans, who were scattered about the country and
commended themselves by their retired, industrious,
and frugal manner of life. The Quakers have never
gone very far from Philadelphia, individual members
of the sect not liking to settle far from the rest, but
preferring to draw together in little colonies. It was
therefore a policy with them to be on good terms with
the outlying inhabitants and they found it the easier
to come by their ends through a good understanding
with the Germans, since these together outnumbered
any one of the other nationalities among the colonists,
English, Scottish, Irish, and Swedish. The ancestors
of these Germans came to America all in similar cir-
cumstances, as indeed many have come during and
since the war. That is to say, they left the fatherland

PENSYLVANIA 103

out of poverty or in the hope at least of finding better
fortune, able to grow rich with less trouble. Many of
them, indeed very many of them, have seen their de-
sires fulfilled, although at first they were obliged to
bind themselves out for a term of years so as to pay
the cost of the voyage, if, as it often happened, they
did not bring with them property in that amount. From
very insignificant beginnings the most of them have
come to good circumstances, and many have grown
rich. For here the poor man who is industrious finds
opportunities enough for gain, and there is no excuse
for the slothful. Where a German settles, there com-
monly are seen industry and economy, more than with
others, all things equal — his house is better-built and
warmer, his land is better fenced, he has a better gar-
den, and his stabling is especially superior; everything
about his farm shows order and good management in
all that concerns the care of the land. The Germans
are known throughout America as an industrious
people, but particularly those of them that come over
from Europe, and in all the provinces it is desired
that their numbers increase, they being everywhere
valued as good citizens, and I daresay that Pensyl-
vania is envied for the greater number of them settled
there, since it is universally allowed that without them
Pensylvania would not be what it is. The greater part
of the German emigrants were originally of humble
origin and meagre education, nor have they or their
descendants greatly changed in their principles of ac-
tion. On the whole they show little or no zeal to bring
themselves up in any way except by small trade or
handicrafts or farming. To use their gains for allow-
able pleasures, augmenting the agreeableness of life,

104 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

this very few of them have learned to do, and others
with a bad grace. The lucre is stuck away in old
stockings or puncheon chests until opportunity offers to
buy more land which is the chief object of their de-
sires. In their houses, in the country especially, they
live thriftily, often badly. There is wanting among
them the simple unaffected neatness of the English
settlers, who make it a point, as far as they are able,
to live seemly, in a well-furnished house, in every way
as comports with the gentleman. The economy of the
German farmer in Pensylvania is precisely the same as
that customary in Germany — even when his next neigh-
bor every day sets him a better example. A great
four-cornered stove, a table in the corner with benches
fastened to the wall, everything daubed with red, and
above, a shelf with the universal German farmer's
library : the Almanack, and Song-book, a small ' Garden
of Paradise/ Habermann, + and the Bible. It is in vain
to look for other books, whereas in the cabins of the
English there are not seldom seen, at the least, frag-
ments of the Spectator, journals, magazines, or dic-
tionaries. The highest delight of the German country-
man in Pensylvania is — drink. He drives many miles
to Philadelphia to market, sleeping in his wagon, living
on the bread and cheese he takes along, but having
made a good sale, he is certain to turn in at some grog-
shop on his way home — drinks in good spirits a glass
of wine, drinks perhaps a second, and a third, recks
no more and often leaves his entire wallet at the bung.
They give their children little education and have
no fancy for seeing their sons parading in the pulpit
or the Court-house. Not until this last war, (when
several regiments were raised among the Pensylvania

PENSYLVANIA 105

Germans), have any of them been seized with a passion
to appear in a better light, by going about after posts
of honor. Their conversation is neither interesting
nor pleasing, and if so, it is because they have had a
better bringing-up in Germany or, native-born, have
become English quite, and thus they are no longer
Germans and withdrawn by their own wish from in-
tercourse with their people. In the towns there pre-
vails an altogether different tone among the German
families. They feel that no distinction of rank imposes
any restraint on them, and behave as if farmers turned
lords. I met at Philadelphia only one or two agree-
able and intelligent women of German origin, but they
spoke German very little and did not owe their breeding
to their own people.

There is a striking contrast between the untaught
class : German and English. In the same circumstances
and with the same faculties the Englishman invariably
shows more information ; the German has the advan-
tage in superstitions and prejudices and is less intelli-
gent in political matters. However, the German
country-people are extremely jealous of their liberties,
and of their rights in the matter of sending members to
the Assembly, although they find it difficult at times to
get capable men. For it often happens that members
chosen from among the German farmers and sent to the
Assembly are not sufficiently equipped with the English
language, and so make but dumb chair-fillers and never
dare to give their opinions openly — and, when ques-
tions are to be decided, discreetly range themselves
with the majority, sitting quietly by until they see
which side has the numbers. Really they often know
nothing of what the question is before the Assembly,

106 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

because of the very slight tincture they have of the
language. The story is that once an honorable Ger-
man member heard that the business was whether to
Move the House,* which he literally took to mean
whether the house should be removed. He said noth-
ing, but went out to the door and entirely around the
large Assembly-house, then came back shaking his
head and gave it as his opinion that it would be no
easy matter. Just this year an old German country-
man, no doubt an oracle among his tap-house friends,
was elected to the Assembly from his district and sent
to Philadelphia, where he was welcomed and congratu-
lated. ' Ey,' said he, ' I wish they had let me alone —
what do I understand of all that chitter — I wish I was
at home looking after my things.' I have since seen
members of that cut, in blue stockings and yellow-
leather breeches, sleeping off boredom in the Assembly.
The lack as yet of numerous good schools and of
capable teachers for the people; the further lack of
educated and disinterested Germans who might by
their example inspire imitation ; the prevalent policy
under the former regime of bestowing conspicuous
office mainly on the English, European or American ;
and the extremely trifling advantages accruing to the
merely educated German — such are the chief reasons,
possibly, why the German nation in America has
hitherto shown so little zeal in the item of self-ad-
vancement, preferring the gains from moderate labor

* ' Move the house ' signifies to lay before the Assembly a
question for decision by a majority of votes; the vote is taken
either by a raising of the hands for ' Aye,' or by those in the
affirmative going to one side and those in the negative to the
other, where they are counted by the Speaker.

PENSYLVANIA 107

and trade (certain and uncomplicated) to any difficult
pestering with books.

The language which our German people make use of
is a miserable, broken, fustian salmagundy of English
and German, with respect both to the words and their
syntaxis. Grown people come over from Germany
forget their mother-tongue in part, while seeking in
vain to learn the new speech, and those born in the
country hardly ever learn their own language in an
orderly way. The children of Germans, particularly in
the towns, grow accustomed to English in the streets ;
their parents speak to them in one language and they
answer in the other. The near kinship of the English
and the German helps to make the confusion worse.
If the necessary German word does not occur to the
memory, the next best English one is at once substi-
tuted, and many English words are so currently used
as to be taken for good German. In all legal and
public business English is used solely. Thus English
becomes indispensable to the Germans, and by contact
and imitation grows so habitual that even among them-
selves they speak at times bad German, at times a worse
English, for they have the advantage of people of other
nationalities, in being masters of no one language.
The only opportunity the Germans have of hearing a
set discourse in their own language, (reading being
out of the question) is at church. But even there, the
minister preaching in German they talk among them-
selves their bastard jargon. There are a few isolated
spots, for example in the mountains, where the people
having less intercourse with the English understand
nothing but German, but speak none the better. The
purest German is heard in the Moravian colonies. — As

a

ft

108 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

proof I will give literally what a German farmer said
to me, a German, in German : +

' Ich hab' wollen, said he, mit meinem Nachbar
' tscheinen (join) und ein Stuck geklaret (cleared)
'Land purtchasen (purchase). Wir hatten, no doubt,
ein guten Barghen (bargain) gemacht, und hatten
konnen gut darauf ausmachen. Ich war aber net
capable so'ne Summe Geld aufzumachen. und konnt
' nicht langer expekten. Das that mein Nachbar net
' gleichen, und fieng an mich iibel zu yuhsen (use one
'ill), so dacht ich, 's ist besser du thust mit aus (to

" do without) . Or thus : Mein Stallion ist uber

' die Fehns getcheupt, und hat dem Nachbar sein
: Whiet abscheulich gedamatscht." That is, Mein
Hengst ist uber den Zaun gesprungen, und hat des
Nachbars Weizen ziemlich beschadiget — But it is not
enough, that English words are used as German — e. g.
schmart (smart, active, clever) — serben, geserbt
haben (serve, &c) ; they go farther and translate lit-
erally, as absezen, instead of abreisen, sick auf den
Weg machen, from the English ' set off ' ; einen auf
den Weg sezen, einen auf den rechten Weg bringen,
from the English ' put one in the road ' ; abdrehen,
sich vom Weg abwenden, from the English ' turn off ' ;
aufkommen mit einem, jemanden auf den Weg ein-
hohlen, from the English ' come up with one.' — Often
they make a German word of an English one, merely by
the sound, when the sense of the two is quite different,
as das belangt zu mir, das gehort mir, from the Eng-
lish ' this belongs to me,' although ' belangen ' and
' belong ' have entirely different meanings ; or ich thue
das nicht gleichen, from the English ' I do not like
that,' instead of das gefallt mir nicht. It is not worth

PENSYLVANIA 109

the trouble to put down more of this sort of non-sense
which many of my countrymen still tickle the ears
with. And besides speaking scurvily, there is as bad
writing and printing. Melchior Steiner's German estab-
lishment (formerly Christoph Sauer's) prints a weekly
German newspaper which contains numerous sorrowful
examples of the miserably deformed speech of our
American fellow-countrymen. This newspaper is
chiefly made up of translations from English sheets,
but so stiffly done and so anglic as to be mawkish. The
two German ministers and Mr. Steiner himself over-
see the sheet. If I mistake not, Mr. Kunze alone re-
ceives 100 Pd. Pens. Current for his work. ' If we
wrote in German/ say the compilers in excuse, ' our
American farmers would neither understand it nor
read it/

It was hardly to be expected that the German lan-
guage, even as worst degenerated, could ever have gone
to ruin and oblivion with quite such rapidity — public
worship, the Bible, and the estimable almanack * might,
so it seems, transmit a language for many generations,
even if fresh emigrants did not from time to time add
new strength. But probably the free and immediate
intercourse now begun between the mother-country and
America will involve a betterment of the language.
Since America, in the item of German literature, is 30-
40 years behind, it might possibly be a shrewd specula-

* Several Deutsche Amerikanisch Stadt-und Land-Calender
appear annually, published by Mr. Steiner and Mr. Carl Cist.
Plan and arrangement the same as with our praiseworthy
Almanack in quarto — articles on bleeding and lancing, how to
judge the blood, how to fell trees, edifying stories, home-spun
verse — nothing omitted.

110 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

tion to let loose from their book-stall prisons all our
unread and forgotten poets and prosaists and transport
them to America after the manner of the English (at
one time) and their jail-birds.

There has existed for some years a Privileged Ger-
man Society at Philadelphia Plan and Status of
which an Address before the Society by Joh. Christ.
Kunze, Professor of the Oriental and German Lan-
guages at the University of Philadelphia, and Mem-
ber of the said Society. Philadelphia. Printed by
M. Steiner. 1782. 8vo. pp. 62, sets forth. +

Mr. Kunze, who plainly sees the lack of good Ger-
man schools (and the consequent decline of the lan-
guage), and feels as a patriot the necessity for better
instruction generally, proposed to establish such
schools * with a view mainly to the education of young
people of the three religions. His enthusiasm greatly
meriting approbation has thus far received little practi-
cal support. Meetings of this society are regularly
held; its objects are not merely scientific, but include
assistance to be rendered in-coming Germans who
finding no one to take them in and meeting with no
friends are often the victims of greed or other wicked-
ness— the attention of the society is directed to every-
thing which may redound to the honor, good treatment,
and encouragement of the German nation. Since this
is a matter which cannot well be of indifference to
many of my readers, I can do no better than devote a
few pages of the Appendix to the statements of the
founder himself. f

* With regard to his plans for a Latin school among the
Germans of Philadelphia, Vid. Schlozer's Brief weeks el. I,
4, 206.

t A German Society at New York, + on the plan of the Pen-

PENSYLVANIA 111

The clergy of the German nation, it was to be ex-
pected, would scatter not only the seeds of the gospel
but those of scientific enlightenment as well. However,
among the few ministers in all America a few only can
give their mind to these things and fewer yet will.
With the exception of several worthy men, chiefly in
the larger towns, the services of the clergy are very
ambiguous. Their position is not an agreeable one.
They depend absolutely on the caprice of their congre-
gations who (to use their own expression) hire a pas-
tor from year to year at 20-30 or more pounds. — And
so the ministers are often obliged to take charge of
several congregations if they are to earn a passable
support. Many of them, after the manner of the
Apostles, have to carry on another occupation for a
living. Mr. Kunze recently paid a visit to a worthy
colleague beyond the Schuylkill. When he came into
the house the pastor's wife asked him, ' Do you wish to
see the pastor or the cobbler ? ' — the pastoral office not
bringing in enough to support the little family, the son
added to the income by shoemaking, in which his father
lent a hand. Congregations may dismiss their minis-
ters so soon as they have the misfortune to displease.
But before that pass, much must happen ; the pastor
preaching no strict morality, out of recompense and
Christian love little faults on his part are overlooked.

To be sure, all the clergy in America (outside the
English establishment) were without support from the
civil authorities, which not inducting them left them
to their congregations entirely. Each sect was per-

sylvania Society, held its first meeting Sept. 15, 1784, — the
President is Colonel Lutterlobe.

112 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

mitted to dance as it would and manage the whistling
as it could — for if the state interfered in church affairs
in America there would be no end, and only evil could
come of it. The Presbyterians indeed are not exposed
to the blind choice or dismission of a freakish congre-
gation, their discipline depending on an assembly of all
the ministers. Only the ministers of the English es-
tablishment (because consecrated by some one of the
English bishops and paid by the King) had under the
old regime a closer connection with the state. The
German Lutheran ministers, however, meet together at
times in Synods to discuss general questions ; at such
meetings the office of President passes from one to
another, since they are all equally independent.

The Philadelphia market deserves a visit from every
foreigner. Astonishment is excited not only by the ex-
traordinary store of provisions but also by the cleanli-
ness and good order in which the stock is exposed for
sale. The Market-house proper consists of two open
halls which extend from First to Third-street, and ad-
ditional space, on both sides of Market-street and along
adjoining streets, swarms with buyers and sellers. On
the evenings before the chief market days (these are
Wednesdays and Saturdays) all the bells in the city are
rung. People from a distance, especially the Germans,
come into Philadelphia in great covered wagons, loaded
with all manner of provender, bringing with them
rations for themselves and feed for their horses — for
they sleep in their wagons. Besides, numerous carts
and horses bring in from all directions the rich sur-
plus of the country ; everything is full of life and action.
Meats are supplied not only by the city butchers, but
by the country people as well — for America is not yet

PENSYLVANIA 113

cursed with exclusive guild-rights and the police is not
bribed. The Americans on the whole, like the English,
consume more meat than vegetables and the market
furnishes them the choicest store, cut very neatly. Be-
sides the customary sorts of meat, Europeans find in
season several dishes new to them, such as raccoons,
opossums, fish-otters, bear-bacon, and bear's foot &c, as
well as many indigenous birds and fishes. In products
of the garden the market although plentiful is not of
great variety, for divers of our better European cab-
bages and other vegetables are lacking ; on the other
hand all sorts of melons and many kinds of pumpions
are seen in great quantity, and fruits also. I have by
me no prices-current of the Philadelphia market, but
I remember that at the time the best butchers' meat
cost only four pence, in the same market where we had
paid 15 times as much in the year 1778, 3 shillings 9
pence Pensylv. Current , that is, to 4 shillings ; and not-
withstanding that prices of provisions have in general
not fallen to the low level customary before the war,
for not more than a guinea a week a room could be had
in several of the public houses, with breakfast, plentiful
dinner, and supper, and in private boarding-houses for
less or more as one preferred.

The war has left no sign of want here ; now, as be-
fore, the same exuberant plenty prevails. The in-
habitants are not only well clothed but well fed, and,
comparatively, better than their betters in Europe.
Few families can be found who do not enjoy daily their
fine wheat-bread, good meats and fowls, cyder, beer,
and rum. Want oppresses but few. Work is rewarded
and there is no need of catch-pole beadles.

While the war still lasted several institutions were
8

114 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

established at Philadelphia which are not commonly
thought of during a war, and if so, only because a
fortunate outcome is anticipated with certainty. In
this category is a public Bank *, an establishment as
useful to trade in general as to the individual merchant,
furthering his convenience and security. This bank is
adequately secured by the subscriptions of a great num-
ber of moneyed persons, under mortgage of their real
property. It is at the same time a bank of exchange
and of loans. As a sure guaranty of hard money de-
posited, there are issued bank-notes (the smallest
amount 10 Spanish dollars) which are unhesitatingly
•received, both in the city and in the country, at their
specie valuation. These bills are signed by the Presi-
dent, Director, and Company of the Bank of North
America, but there is no right to the title except in so
far as this was the first bank established in North
America ; for certain other cities, Boston and Charles-
ton, are about to open banks, seeing the great advan-
tages of such institutions in the furtherance of an ex-
tensive trade. The founding of the bank was made the
easier by the great quantity of Spanish dollars brought
into the country during the last years of the war for
American flour sold at the Havannah, and by the num-
ber of British guineas put in circulation by the army,
both prisoners and effectives. The guineas have all
been carefully clipped, partly to make them more uni-
form with the other currency, partly to prevent their
desertion to the fatherland. Against security given,

* " The bank established at Philadelphia for the facilitating
of commerce and the circulation of money has had no stability
and is entirely given over " Hamb. Polit. Jour., Octob. 1786.

PENSYLVANIA 115

merchants may borrow cash from the bank. Interest
accruing in this way and other perquisites bring in a
considerable amount. The first plan of this bank, if I
am not mistaken, was sketched by the celebrated finan-
cier Bob Morris.

Instead of a Bourse they use the Coffee-house, where
most people engaged in business affairs meet together
at midday to get news of entering or clearing vessels,
and to inform themselves of the market.

Trade was still at this time in a very uncertain and
disordered state, and it was difficult to foresee what
turn it would take. On the one hand the hatred of
England, as yet pretty general and pretty warm,
seemed to be favorable to the French and other nations
competing for the American trade, and all the more
because their goods were offered cheaper than the Eng-
lish. But on the other hand, their manufactures are
found to be inferior to the English in intrinsic good-
ness, not executed according to the English mode, and
less substantially ; and instead of the general preference
for the English manufactures being done away with,
they have gained by comparison with the goods of
other nations. Besides, no one of the trading nations
is able or willing to give such long and heavy credits
as the Americans have been accustomed to from Eng-
land. The peace proposals in the spring of 1783 at
once tempted to America a great number of European
vessels from various countries. Only a few came off
well in the speculation. Most of the undertakers were
acquainted neither with the goods current among the
Americans nor with the American taste, and the mar-
ket being so overset it was a difficult matter to sell
either for cash money or for produce. Money began to

116 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

be tight shortly after the peace, and the Americans,
accustomed to deal with England on long credit, were
neither able nor inclined to pay cash for cargoes. Prod-
uce was not everywhere to be had in such quantity as
to make up profitable return cargoes, and prices rose
so high with the heavy demand that on returning to
Europe it was found that such articles were almost as
cheap there as in America. The American merchants
(a peace seeming to be pretty certain) had fore-
handedly placed their orders in England; but when
they found that so many Germans, Hollanders, and
French were coming in with goods, they hurriedly and
secretly countermanded their orders in England, but
at the same time gave the foreigners to understand
that they were hourly expecting from England the
same sorts of goods as those offered, and for other
reasons as well could make no use of their goods. And
so these adventuring foreigners were obliged to let
their cargoes go under the hammer at any price at all ;
the Americans in this way secured the goods below
purchase-price and, the English orders being in great
part written off, could sell at a great profit. — Thus they
came by their ends and gained at the cost of inex-
perienced foreigners, their very obliging friends.

Philadelphia is the only sea-port of Pensylvania;
therefore the whole trade of the province centres at
Philadelphia, with the exception of certain regions be-
yond the Susquehannah to which Baltimore lies more
convenient. To Philadelphia the countryman brings
what he has to sell and there buys what he needs. The
products of Pensylvania are in no way peculiar to
itself, being the same as those found in the adjacent
provinces of Jersey and New York; however, certain

PENSYLVANIA 117

of them are preferred to those of other regions. The
chief products are, — wheat, flour and biscuit, peas,
beans, Indian corn, salted meats, bacon and hams,
tongues, dried and smoked game, salted and dried fish
(shad and herring), honey and wax, hides and skins,
iron, masts, timber, boards, rafters, shingles, stoves, and
ready-built ships. Of this domestic produce, the
greater part was formerly sent to the British West
Indies, whence was brought back sugar, brandy, cotton,
coffee, cacao, mahogany, and silver — part for use in
the country and part exported to other colonies and to
Europe. There was formerly a trade in wheat to the
south of Europe, to Spain and Portugal ; and to Eng-
land there was sent iron, hemp and flaxseed, leather,
skins, ships, and ships' supplies, and profitably, be-
cause on certain of these articles the Americans were
paid a premium by the English government ; others,
however, could be furnished cheaper than it was pos-
sible for England to find them elsewhere, because the
Americans took back manufactured articles, indeed
were obliged to. For Pensylvania and America at
large had not then, nor have they now, considerable
manufactures of their own, and for this reason will
long be dependent on Europe. Several obstacles stand
in the way of manufactures. Lack of the necessary
workmen, able on the whole to do better at farming,
and for that reason the English government was care-
ful rather to keep back manufactures than to encourage
them. So long as land is to be had there will be few
persons willing to subject themselves to the heavy,
tedious, and regular labor necessary for manufactures,
when by farming they may earn their bread with more
freedom and on the whole with less work. Another

118 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

hindrance is the high wages which every class of
laborers demands, and all the more stubbornly de-
mands because they know the scarcity. A third hin-
drance is the want of money, and the uncommonly
high interest paid for the use of capitals — in Pensyl-
vania and New York 6-7 per centum, in South Caro-
lina 8 and more ; this with the other difficulties in the
way would too much diminish any profit that might be
hoped for. Besides, it has been sufficiently shown by
experience that nothing can be made in America which
cannot be had cheaper from Europe. To be sure,
America has the crude material (or can get it) for all
kinds of manufactures, but until all the land is occu-
pied and so far settled that all hands cannot be em-
ployed in agriculture and a part must look for other
ways of getting a living, that is to say, for many years
yet, America must bring from Europe the most of what
it needs for use or luxury. The countryman, indeed,
makes from his wool a sort of rough cloth or contrives
linen from his flax, but such things are not for the
exigencies of the multitude. Hats are made in several
parts of America, but especially at Philadelphia, of an
excellent quality and from nothing but beaver-skins,
and in the country these are preferred to any of Euro-
pean make. The best are sold for 6-8 Spanish dollars.
Their fault is they are too thick and heavy and do not
hold the color so well as the European. They make
commoner sorts of racoon, mink, and hare-skins ;
woolen hats of an inferior sort can be imported cheaper
than they can be made, and of the finer hats a great
number are sold every year to the Americans by
Europe, and because of the cheapness. Notwithstand-
ing there is no lack of shoemakers in America, every

PENSYLVANIA 119

year a great quantity of shoes are brought over, par-
ticularly to the southern provinces. But women's
shoes find a good market everywhere. There is made
in America almost as good upper leather as in Eng-
land, but not in sufficient quantity. Their sole leather
is inferior to the English. A sort of rough paper is
made in America, but not enough of it to supply the
printers of newspapers. There are sugar-refineries in
New York, at Philadelphia and in New England —
here and there the domestic maple-sugar is mixed in
and boiled with the rest. Rum and brandy distilleries
are everywhere. Several glass-fabrics have been set
up but they have not all succeeded. One at Boston and
one at New York went to nothing. At Frederick-town
in Maryland, in Pensylvania, and if I am not mistaken,
in Jersey, there are several fabrics but the product is
only a bad sort of green glass. It is said that no suit-
able earth has yet been found in America for the glass
smelting-furnaces, and hence the necessary materials
have had to be brought from England ; but the
materials will certainly be found whenever a vigorous
enough search is made for them.

A porcelain fabrick was about to be established at
Philadelphia [August 1783] by a French regimental
surgeon. The clay brought from Maryland for the
purpose is fine and smooth, and some small specimens
of porcelain had been fused out very successfully.
However, many difficulties are yet to be overcome and
the price of the finished porcelain must be greatly more
than for European ware.

Someone at Philadelphia had made steel from
American iron, which, by the account of trustworthy
people is equal to the best European steel ; but nothing

120 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

was done beyond the experiment, and I suppose that
there were no profits to be reckoned on.

At the beginning of the war sakpetre was prepared
in America, but, as it appeared, merely because it was
necessary to find a substitute for the cheaper European
article. For so soon as the alliance with France made
importations freer, the preparation of the inland salt-
petre, was given over, and so, in the mountains par-
ticularly, no end of material is on hands.

A similar fate met other attempts in several branches
of manufactures. But all this is proof only that in its
present situation America cannot undertake what, after
a few generations,* will be less difficult. Of individual
craftsmen America has, if not all that are needed, at
least the most necessary.

* And until then they must contrive to do without dispen-
sable articles and must give thought to the best possible way
of augmenting their inland products, these being not sufficient
to pay for necessary importations from foreign states. For
it is only because America, on the whole, needs or imports
more foreign articles than it can pay for in cash or in produce
that there have arisen complaints recently over the decline of
trade.

jfrom pfnlaDelpfna

After a stay of 10 days I left Philadelphia the 6th of
August, intending to visit Bethlehem and from there
to proceed into the mountains.

In the neighborhood of Philadelphia, towards Ger-
mantown, many doleful reminders of the war were
still to be met with, that is to say, burned and ruined
houses. The road to Germantown is over a level
sandy-loam, through a pleasant, open, well-cultivated
region, of many houses. Here as well as along the
exquisite Schuylkill are to be found sundry neat and
tasteful country-houses, although of a plan neither ex-
tensive nor durable. There met us going to market
many wagons, drawn by four or more splendid horses,
driven without reins merely by the voice and the whip.

Germantown is distant only six English miles from
Philadelphia ; the place itself is two to three miles long.
The houses all stand more or less apart, and about each
are grounds with garden and outbuildings. Most of
the houses are well and thickly built of stone, and some
of them are really fine. Among the most conspicuous is
the house at the north end of the town, where Colonel
Musgrave with a company of British light infantry so
stoutly defended himself in the fall of 1776 against a
numerous corps of the American army. Germantown
owes its name and foundation to a German colonv

*/

which was brought to Pensylvania by Franz Daniel
Pastorius of Weinsheim in the year 1685. The in-

122 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

habitants are still almost entirely German, with a few
Quakers who have settled among them. Their busi-
ness is farming with somewhat of linen and woolen-
weaving and other trades ; in particular a good quantity
of common woolen stockings was at one time made
here, but by no means enough to supply a fourth part
of the country. It is asserted that America does not
yet produce wool enough to furnish each inhabitant
so much as one pair of stockings. Among the residents
of Germantown are many well-to-do people ; and many
Philadelphians own land and houses here, and use the
place as a resort for summer. By reason of its near-
ness also, excursions are often made hither ; on Sun-
days the whole street is filled with the carts and coaches
of pleasure-seeking Philadelphians. There are in the
place a Lutheran and a Reformed church and a Quaker
meeting-house. Also a few families of another sect,
called Tumblers,' live here ; they wear beards and a
simple dress but not after the manner of the Quakers.
They are similar to the Anabaptists, but I cannot say
how they are distinguished in creed or opinions, for it
is a difficult matter to come at the idiosyncrasies of the
many religious sects in America.

Beyond Germantown the country lies uneven and
hilly, but still shows the sandy clay which in spots re-
sembles somewhat the red Jersey soil. Some loose
fragments of rock by the way were made up of a sandy
slate or splintery stone with much mica. The same sort
of rock * appears frequently throughout the German-
town region and towards the Schuylkill ; most of the
houses of Germantown are built of this stone.

* A sort of gneiss containing granite at times. Kalm men-
tions that he found Hme in the splintery mica-rock.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 123

Two miles beyond Germantown we came to Ches-
nut-hill and spent the night there. Chesnut-hill is
one of a range of hills, all dry and infertile, or at least,
if anything is to be got of them requiring more labor
and manure then is commonly given. The lower land
hereabouts brings three and four times as much as
these meagre limestone hills. But here and there a
beautiful prospect may be had from them, over the low-
land in the foreground and its jewel the city of Phila-
delphia. As yet one looks in vain for such prospects
in most parts of America. A Quaker, Mr. Elm, was
moved by the situation to build him a house in the form
of an ancient, high wratch-tower. So extraordinary a
building astonished the country-people who with one
consent gave it the name of Elm's Folly; but they come
assiduously to make the Folly useful, for a small do-
native delighting the eyes from the roof of the building.
From there can be seen, some miles distant, the White-
marsh region where General Washington safe on the
heights, mocked at General Howe in the winter of 1778.

In the woods by the road no remarkable plants were
to be found. These dry hills seem as if designed for
sheep walks. Nowhere in America are many large
flocks kept ; it is common for landowners to keep a few,
according to the acreage of their possessions. Com-
munity pastures are not the custom, but by means of
them in many places larger herds could be kept with
less trouble and oversight. What with the lack every-
where of manure (they give no attention to the mat-
ter), it is astonishing that pen-folds have not been
introduced here to a greater extent — they are very
seldom seen. A farmer in Jersey found pen-folding
very profitable, since in that way he made a tract of

124 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

poor land rich and at the same time got wealth by the
sheep themselves. Sheep in America, it is said, are
less subject to diseases than our European sheep, and
seldom have the snivel, except now and then a similar
disease shows itself on low swampy meadows. Dr.
Bond says that this disease resembling the snivel is
neither so contagious nor so severe as the disease in
Europe, and the same is true of cattle diseases, which
very seldom appear and in certain regions are un-
known. The wool, notwithstanding the negligence with
which the sheep are handled, is really very good and
fine; but nobody thinks of increasing the supply and
making it a branch of trade.* The country people
make hats or articles of dress of the wool, doing the
work themselves. Indeed they are often too negligent
to shear at the proper time, and quite indifferent, see
wool on every bush, left hanging by the sheep pasturing
beneath.

The taverns in the country are recognizable, even at
a distance, by a sort of gallows arrangement which
stands out over the road and exhibits the patron of the
house. So far we have observed many times the
counterfeit presentment of Frederick the Second, King
of Prussia, hung up in this way, that monarch having
been a great favorite of the Americans ever since the
war before the last. We still found a few Georges, let
hang perhaps out of sympathy, but of Queens of Eng-
land we saw a good many. We have as yet seen no

* As yet no province has a superfluity of wool for export.
Only from Nantucket Island is any wool exported, but there
the most considerable flocks are pastured on commons. A
pound of wool in America costs about I shilling sterling or a
little more.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 125

King of France, but a number of Washingtons and
still more numerous Benjamin Franklins — the latter
makes a particularly alluring sign if everything else is
as well kept.

From Chesnut-hill we came through Flower-town,
a very small place, the few scattered houses of which
stand in a low situation, but the soil of the region is
better than that about Philadelphia, although still of
the sandy-reddish description. Iron seems to be every-
where abundantly scattered about America; the color
of the soil in this region and that of the sandstone is
due to iron or its constituents. As far as this we have
found many good solid stone houses, the roofs of which
hereabouts are made of shingles, for the most part
after the German manner — the shingles of one thick-
ness throughout and laid touching each other merely
at the sides. The English custom is to make the
shingles thinner at one 'edge, so that the edge of one
overlaps that of the next. From the exterior appear-
ance, especially the plan of the chimneys, it could be
pretty certainly guessed whether the house was that of
a German or of an English family — if of one chimney
only, placed in the middle, the house should be a Ger-
man's and furnished with stoves, the smoke from each
led into one flue and so taken off ; if of two chimneys,
one at each gable end there should be fire places, after
the English plan. Beyond the region of Whitemarsh
the true Jersey red soil appears again for the first time,
perceptible only here and there on the slopes of the
hills, but towards the ridges overlaid again with the
common sandy soil and rock fragments. It was to be
remarked, as we proceeded West, that this red soil
showed itself very generally on the east side of the hills

126 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

and was more obscured on the west slope. The road
lay over many ridges of hills, all running very nearly
northeast and southwest. And therefore it is all the
more to be wondered at how most of the brooks and
streams of any size go through and across these ridges,
having forcibly broken a way towards the sea from
West to East, not following the lay of the valleys. We
saw only a few smaller books running along the valleys
between the ridges.

Somewhere near Spring-house Tavern, ten miles
from Germantown, we unwittingly got out of the
straight road to Bethlehem and into a by-road through
extensive woods. From time to time we saw farm-
houses standing at some distance from the road, and
inquiring after a tavern we were directed farther and
farther on until at last we had come 19 miles, a hot
day, having found no tavern on this unfrequented
cross-road. We were obliged finally to turn in at the
nearest farm so as to get our horses fed. The owner of
the farm, where we alighted without much ceremony,
was a German. Our arrival perturbed him no little.
There had been very recently several robberies in that
neighborhood, which there was every reason to believe
had been committed by some Tories scattered about
through that country ; for the perpetrators, untimely
zealous for the royal cause, had selected only tax-
gatherers for their prey, exacting from them, as they
said, in this unlawful manner what they had unlawfully
exacted from the inhabitants — they harmed nobody
else. This royalist band of robbers appeared only in
disguise and well mounted, but one of them after a
pursuit was caught. Nothing could move him to dis-
cover his comrades, who by letters scattered about the

FROM PHILADELPHIA 127

country were making threats of fearful vengeance if
the prisoner, who had been taken to Philadelphia, met
with any hurt. This was the occasion for arresting and
taking to prison several of the inhabitants of those
parts, believed to be associates of the man who had
been caught — well known Tories apprehended merely
on suspicion. Thus our host fancied nothing less than
that we had come to haul him into court, but we soon
reassured him ; he let it be seen that he was a Tory
but of such an honorable character that we too absolved
him from any implication in these thefts committed in
the name of the king. However, after his first alarm
was over he was for some time mistrustful of us for
another reason, and would not believe that we were
simply neutrals on our travels. During the war the
Congress had adopted every conceivable means to spy
out the royalists, so as to keep them anxiously ineffect-
ive. Besides ordering frequent hangings, imprison-
ments, and outlawing of those persons who openly
and actively supported the British cause, the Congress
was at pains also to find out who were still on the side
of the old government, but not declared adherents.
Such people had an understanding among themselves,
and if they could do nothing else, were able to help
British prisoners regain their liberty. In this way
many British prisoners of war succeeded in escaping
from Maryland, Virginia, and elsewhere, traversing,
undiscovered, an enemy's country for many hundreds
of miles to New York — directed from house to house,
everywhere joyfully received by the royalists, cared
for and hidden away until they were out of danger.
In order to discover what houses were giving shelter
in this way the Congress sent its agents about who pre-

128 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

tending to be escaped prisoners, asked assistance on
their way to New York. And whoever was induced
by such methods to show his principles was informed
against and sorely mishandled. The Congress suc-
ceeded in arousing a general distrust among the people,
suspicious of each other and of strangers, and all this
was vastly useful in the furtherance of their designs.

Since the beginning of August the people in this tract
of country had been busy with their second hay-crop.
The first is got in generally about the middle or to-
wards the end of June. Nowhere is a third mowing
thought of, even on the best of meadows ; whatever
grows after the second cutting is pastured by the cattle.
The hay is nowhere kept under cover, but after the
English fashion in stacks standing out. The soil of
this region is of still less fertility than that about Phila-
delphia or Chesnut-hill. But red earth lies every-
where at a small depth beneath the surface, and could
be turned up with little difficulty. Although it is well
known from the experience of other regions that this
red earth exposed to the air makes good land, it is let
lie where it is undisturbed. The value of land rose
here unwontedly during the war, from 5 Pd. Pensylv.
Current to 8 Pd. the acre. The reason was that many
people thought to employ their money more safely,
whether already invested or not ; and also because of the
increased price of living due to the war. Our host, who
really is only a tenant, pays 25 Pd. Pensylv. Current
land-rent for 146 acres, and has the taxes to pay as
well, 15 Pd., in all 40 Pd. a year. Before the war his
taxes were only some twenty-odd shillings. Formerly
the usual basis of the land-tax was 6 pence to I or 1^2
shillings for every pound of land-rent. This farm

FROM PHILADELPHIA 129

lying in Philadelphia county, both rent and tax are
higher than in other counties. The nearness of the
capital, that is, assures the farmer more profitable and
quicker returns, and there are other advantages which
are taken into the account. Moreover, those land-
owners suspected of adherence to the old government
are still assessed higher, and (as just now mentioned)
many British sympathizers are supposed to live in this
region, of whom only a few have so far condescended
to swear allegiance to the United States. The Pro-
vincial Assembly determines the amount which each
county shall contribute for the good of the country.
The counties themselves then apportion the amount
among the several places and farms within that terri-
tory, and in their estimates and equalizations are gov-
erned by the extent, goodness, situation, and use of
the lands — in this way the taxes apparently fall out
very unequally. This same afternoon we came to an-
other farm (in another county, Bucks) in a stony, hilly
region called Rocky Hill, where a young man had to
pay only 10 shillings for 74 acres, but mostly woodland.

Among the several classes of taxes in Pensylvania
there is a special one levied on bachelors and called the
' Batchelors' Tax/ Every male person 21 years old and
still unprovided with a wife pays from that time on 12
shillings 6 pence Pensylv. Current a year. However
inconsiderable this tax is in itself, it effects the desired
purpose, because young men will not long expose them-
selves to mockery of this sort in a country where work-
ing hands can so easily find support for a family.

This tax has long been imposed, here as well as in
Maryland ; and very recently the example has been fol-
9

130 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

lowed in South Carolina from the conviction that such
a tax will be useful in the furtherance of salutary ends.

Hereabouts there is a seeding-plough in use and
highly regarded, which is known as the Bucks county
plough. Elsewhere the wheat is seeded on fallow
broken but once, and then the seed ploughed in. The
allowance is one half to one bushel of seed to an acre,
according as the wheat is old or new, if new a half-
bushel is sufficient. They commonly expect, from three
fourths of a bushel seed on unmanured land, 10-15
bushels yield, but in other parts of Pensylvania, about
Reading and in the Tulpehocken valley, the yield is
25-30 bushels. A four-horse wagon hauls 40-50
bushels of wheat to the city, the price at this time being
one Spanish dollar a bushel, or 7 shillings 6 pence
Pensylv. Current. What with the quantity of land many
farmers own, they cannot work the whole of it properly,
and therefore many acres lie fallow7 5-6-7 years to-
gether. The usual practice is to plant maize the first
year ; the second year wheat is sown along with Eng-
lish grass-seeds, and after the wheat is off, the field is
pastured for four or five years. At other times they
sow buckwheat (l/2 bus. to the acre) after wheat, or
it may be turnips.

Most of the lime used at Philadelphia comes from
the region about Whitemarsh and Plymouth, some 15-
17 miles' distance. Nearer than that no good limestone
hills are found, and wood for the kilns is not to be had.
And beyond the Whitemarsh country no usable lime-
stone occurs until five miles this side Bethlehem.
Formerly the price of a bushel of burnt lime delivered
at Philadelphia was a shilling, but at present a shilling
and a half. A four-horse wagon brings in (according
to the goodness of the road) 40-50 bushels.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 131

Orchards are a part of every farm ; when the trees
begin to show age, a new orchard is set on fresh land,
for it is not regarded as good practice to put young
trees where the old ones stood — because commonly
there is plenty of land, and people prefer to avoid the
trouble of ploughing up the old land and improving it
by manure and stirring. Little care is taken in the
choice of good sorts of fruit ; apples and peaches are the
commonest, but they might be greatly improved, espe-
cially the peaches.

From our host's mentioned above we came through
almost unbroken forest to Rocky-hill township, in
which we could find only a few scattered houses ; the
road deserved the name stony. A blue stone like trap,
and a laminated sort of rock resembling gneiss covered
the surface, and beneath there was often to be observed
something of the red Jersey soil. We went through a
devastated tract of woods, probably 2000 acres in ex-
tent ; the trees had all been destroyed by an iron-
foundry which fell to ruin when the owners had used
up all their wood. The forests are in great part oak,
with beech and birch. Beech-bark and birch-bark are
in this region especially liked for tanning. On this dry
barren soil the growth was nothing but small trees of
all kinds, apparently of no great age. However, most
of the forest-growth in the farther regions is likely
very young, the first settlers having made it their chief
business to burn off the wood from their lands — the
fire generally spread, and the original growth was in
great part wiped out.

Fences certainly are nowhere else to be found of so
many different varieties as in America, where at any
moment the traveller comes upon a new sort and can-

132 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

not but be astonished at the inventive genius of the in-
habitants. But in every case, the device shows that
more care has been taken to avoid trouble than to save
wood and space or to build durably. Commonly the
fences are but dead enclosures, either light poles or
split logs, bound together in one way and another, laid
the one over the other, or, it may be, upright stakes
worked in and across, and so forth. The so-called
' worm-fences ' are the commonest, and for this pur-
pose chestnut wood, if to be had, is used because of its
lightness and because it lasts well, barked. Kalm took
the trouble to give drawings of several sorts of worm-
fence, but they deserve imitation nowhere.

Live hedges are extremely rare, only to be seen near
certain towns ; they find the planting and the attention
too troublesome. However, in many regions a live
fence is very ingeniously managed. In order to enclose
a piece of land they choose out the younger trees, and
if a sufficiency is not found in the line, they plant others
so as to fill up the row — the trees must all be soft and
and pliant and stand together as much as possible.
Then, a deep cut is made in the trunk, several feet
above the ground, and the sapling is bent until it lies
horizontal, making a right angle with the butt. In this
way the row is gone through, one sapling bent over the
other ; the cut heals, and this part of the trunk be-
comes a good knuckle for all manner of growth. For
the rest, the trees thrive, the branches spread, inter-
cross, and together with the sprouts coming up from
the butt and the roots, form a pretty thick and lasting
enclosure. This sort of fence is seen especially in cer-
tain parts of Long Island.

From Rocky-hill the road, ascending, leads into a

FROM PHILADELPHIA 133

wide-lying plain, known by the name of the Great
Swamp, which covered the whole region once, but the
greatest part of it is now made into good meadow-
land. However the low situation causes overflowings
in the fall and the spring, and the inhabitants therefore
find it more profitable to cultivate summer crops than
winter crops, winter seedings often being heaved out
of the soil and ruined.

Quaker-town ; a small place, probably twelve houses
standing together which are inhabited for the most part
by English and German Quakers, like the whole neigh-
borhood. Here the host paid for tavern license, and
perhaps five acres of land, 12 Pd. taxes Pensylv. Current.
He had very little to give and so much the more to
ask. We were not a moment free of his curiosity ;
unceasingly busy he inquired now of us, now of our
servants, what our designs were in going this journey.
It so happened that from all the answers he received he
could make nothing whatever, and we were the less
inclined to satisfy his curiosity, since he himself from
ignorance let all our questions go unanswered which
we put regarding the state of affairs in his region.

From this Quaker colony we came again (August 8th)
into a rough, hilly country, full of fragments of the
hard, blue stone already mentioned, and rode for a good
many miles through untilled land and wild forest.
Here and there in the midst of woods (but very rarely)
we came upon little spots of ploughed ground, the
settlers mainly Germans. Thus without knowing it we
passed through Philipps-thal and Richards-town,
there being no such places and these designations to be
referred either to districts or to cabins. Six miles from
Quaker-town we arrived at a little village of 10-12

134 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

houses and a mill, named for the first settler, Stoffel
Wagner's, and after we had driven through more lone-
some woods and between more high hills, and had
crossed Saucon creek, there opened up a splendid
valley, its mellow, fat soil presenting everywhere a
cheerful prospect ; and soon after we came to the quiet,
but magnificent Leheigh. The last hills between
Quaker-town and this valley have the same name as
the river, that is, are called the Leheigh * hills ; so far
as I could see they do not form one connected chain,
but are broken ridges and heights, quite separate or
meeting by their jutties, and in appearance ranged in
sharp lines from East to West, but really they fall in
with the other hills and are part of a broken chain run-
ning northeast to southwest. The surface of the higher
hills was partly of the blueish stone mentioned and
partly of a sort of laminated gneiss. But in the valley
there appeared a grey limestone, quite without petri-
factions. A mile perhaps across the valley, and one
reaches the banks of the Leheigh, which with a magical
beauty show united every charm of a delectable
region. Almost all the finest North American shrubs
and trees push forward to lend the scene heightened
grace, their branches flung far over the river and
shadows cast — the calamus, the rhododendron, cepha-
lanthus, sassafras, azalea, tulip-tree, magnolia, and
many others which we desire consumedly as guests in
our gardens. The Leheigh river is not more than 100
yards wide, a soft, clear, pure stream flowing over a
rocky bottom. Soon we caught sight of Bethlehem
lying near, the first view of which, from its situation

* Leheigh is commonly pronounced Lecho [ ?]

FROM PHILADELPHIA 135

and from the orderliness (for America) of its large
houses, made from a distance the best impression, and
all the more because to reach this excellently chosen site
so long a road through such wild regions must be
followed.

The whole way from Philadelphia we saw only a few
birds in the forests, chiefly woodpeckers and certain
birds of prey.* We had met with no wild beast nor
with any other indigenous quadruped. Moreover, very
few flowers appeared along the road, and no great
variety of plants. The woods are in large part com-
posed of the several kinds of North American oaks,
the sassafras, tulip-tree, sour gum, chestnut, birch,
wild-ash, and others, which are commonly found along
the coast as well. Nor did we find many mature seeds
nor many seed-bearing plants, so that we became un-
easy thinking that if we had no better fortune farther
on our journey would afford us little pleasure in these
respects. And especially, we had seen nothing thus far
which as a product of the country might be highly
recommended for adoption in other lands. In most
places the soil seemed to be only of a moderate good-
ness, in the valleys and flats a few conspicuously fertile
spots. The inhabitants of such a country might, to be
sure, call themselves happy under a mild government,
so long as they lived by the yield of their lands in
peace and satisfied with very inconsiderable returns,
extensive possessions balancing want of natural fertility
and unskilful cultivation. I do not yet observe any

* Among others Picus principalis L. which at this season is
returning from the north ; I had never seen this bird about
New York — We saw also the Picus varius, Picus villosus, Sitta
europaeaf, which likewise I had never before seen.

136 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

exclusive advantage of this country in itself, beyond
that arising from the sparseness of the population—
that is to say, the diminished difficulty that people of a
certain condition find in accumulating a landed estate
has been hitherto the especial allurement held out by
America, and this may be the case for a long time to
come, but not everywhere equally so.

No one met us on this road until we came to the
ferry opposite Bethlehem, where on this side the river
there stands a tavern. The ferryman and two others
who were put over with us gave the impression as if
the pleasantness of the region had had its influence ;
they were more friendly, politer, and more obliging
than the run of the inhabitants thereabouts.

Bethlehem ; a colony of the Moravian Brotherhood,
stands on the north side of the beautiful Leheigh, on a
commodious rising ground, in North-hampton county,
53 English miles north of Philadelphia, and under lati-
tude 40° 37' north. Approaching, the place shows to
great advantage, and after one has come the last half of
the way from Philadelphia through a tedious sameness of
bush and forest, relieved only here and there by cabins,
often mean cabins, it is certainly an astonishment to see
all at once rising up, one above another, lofty buildings
in this presumptive wilderness. The whole number of
the houses may be about 60. The first settlement was
made in the year 1741, Count Zinzendorf himself hav-
ing chosen the site and regularly secured the land from
the Indians there established and claiming title. The
chief building of the place is of good appearance, large,
and furnished with two wings — in one of them the
Assembly-hall of the Brothers and the ministers'
quarters ; in the middle the children's house ; and in the

FROM PHILADELPHIA 137

left wing the house of the Sisters. Opposite this
building stands the house of the Widows, and farther
on (descending the slope), the house of the Brothers.
These and all the other buildings are of stone, the lime-
stone of the region ; the houses mentioned are 3-4
storeys in height. In the house of the Sisters the
greatest neatness is the rule, with no ostentation. The
unmarried Sisters employ their time in spinning, weav-
ing, knitting, and skilfully embroidering. Likewise the
Brothers in their house are occupied with several crafts.
For the rest, the arrangement of these houses is the
same as in other settlements of the Moravian Brethren
in Germany, and so, as everywhere, shows the marks
of order and of constant industry.

The community here numbers probably 600 souls, of
which by far the greater part are Germans, and the
remainder a few English. However, almost every
member is familiar with the two languages, and on
Sundays a sermon is preached in the English language
by one or the other of the ministers. Since most of
the Brethren, the ministers in particular, are sprung
from Saxony, it is not surprising that here at Bethle-
hem and in the other colonies of the sect, the purest and
best German is spoken of which America can any-
where boast.

Mr. Ettwein and Mr. Hiibner are at present the
ministers. The first was absent, but in Mr. Hiibner I
found an agreeable and amiable man, and a lover of
botany for which his profession allows him no time.
The health of the community is cared for by Mr. Otto,
at once physician, surgeon, and apothecary.

There is but one tavern here, maintained at the
charge of the community, and not inferior to the first

138 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

and best of American inns. Ever} tiling is good, and
so much the better because in so obscure and small a
place a comparison is not to be expected with other
taverns of the same size or even larger. This house is
seldom without guests. + Besides those travelling on
business, Philadelphians often come to the place on
pleasure excursions, as well to admire the excellent
institutions and edifying methods and industry of the
Brethren as to find good entertainment at the tavern.
At this house I made the acquaintance of the Baron
Hermelin, + a learned Swedish mineralogist, who had
come over to visit the mines of America and with
other business in view. He had spent some time in
the various mines and smelting-houses of Jersey, but
as a consequence of the incidental fatigue and the un-
commonly hot season had contracted a serious illness,
which induced him to come to this place. He was now
restored through the efforts of the skilful Mr. Otto.
His observations, if it seems good to him to communi-
cate them to the learned world, will be of very great
importance to all mineralogists, but especially to the
Americans, for no one before him has given the sub-
ject such attention or has been so equipped with the
requisite intelligence.

The Leheigh, at the time of the spring rains and
thaws, often rises suddenly to a considerable height ;
according to a measuring pole set up at the brewery,
as much as 7-8 feet any year, and once n feet, per-
pendicular height. This fresh always lasts for some
time and helps the flat-boats, laden with grain and
other produce, to pass the rocks and shallows which at
other times obstruct the navigation of this stream ; the
Leheigh flows into the Delaware and so affords (dur-

FROM PHILADELPHIA 139

ing the spring freshes) a convenient passage to Phila-
delphia. In the Leheigh and tributary creeks are
found Muscles (a thin-shelled mytilus a good deal like
that living in European ponds) which at times contain
pretty large and clear pearls. Recently a man of this
region sold more than an ounce of them at Philadel-
phia. To find a few good pearls many muscles must
be opened. The muskrats lighten the labors of the
pearl hunters. These beasts are great lovers of the
muscle. They hold their feasts preferably at still reaches
of the stream, on the sand or on rocks jutting into the
water. If they find pearls they spit them out. Certain
people observed the circumstance and made use of it —
they examined the sand of such places and found with-
out trouble many pearls ready shelled.

We visited the certainly remarkable farm and factory
buildings of this place. — A well constructed oil and
flour mill. The oil mill is new-built, having been burnt
a few years ago, and in an incendiary way, it is sup-
posed. On the topmost floor of the mill a crane is so
fixed that by the mill machinery itself the heaviest
loads can be drawn up without further trouble. — A
lucrative tannery, with tan-mill attached. — A con-
siderable dye-works, where they dye red and blue to
excellent effect.

Since Bethlehem stands on a height composed of
limestone, a single spring, but a strong and beautiful
one, must supply the whole place and all the houses
with water. This spring lies far below at the foot of
the hill and near to the river. An excellently con-
trived water-works, (suction and pressure), raises the
water through copper pipes to a water-tower, standing
some distance away on the hill near the larger buildings.

140 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

The reservoir to which the water is brought stands
more than 80 ft. above the spring, reckoning in the
natural elevation. Thence the water is taken through
sundry pipes to special cisterns, and is carried to all
parts of the place, even to parts lying higher than the
tower, and so every house is supplied adequately with
good water. This water-works has repeatedly had the
disagreeable experience that the strongest pipes were
burst by the air held in the water — until there was in-
stalled recently a large copper air-bubble, at the point
where the distributing pipes leave the pump-pipe, and
by that means the air developing was given a void. +

Hard by the river stands a new brewery, a profitable
and excellently ordered establishment under the direc-
tion of Mr. Sigmund Leshinsky. The water for brew-
ing is pumped from the river. The cauldron in which
it is boiled is placed so high that the boiling water is
easily run out over the malt, and is thence sent back to
the cauldron, by a hand-pump, for the seething of the
hops. Thence it is drawn through pipes to the cooling-
tub, and passed on through other pipes to the casks in
the cellar immediately beneath. By this method two or
three men are sufficient for all the work. The malt is
air-dried. The beer is excellent. The year before Mr.
Leshinsky had brewed beer of oats, and he makes the
assertion that of all the American grains oats give the
best beer ; but the preparation is somewhat troublesome
and requires stricter attention, oats sprouting rapidly
when softened. — When the cellar for this brewery was
dug, it was matter of inexplicable astonishment to find
10 ft. below the surface and at least 15-20 ft. away
from the bed of the stream, an iron nail of the thickness
of a little finger and three inches long. Nobody knew

FROM PHILADELPHIA 141

of former diggings at this spot and no trace of digging
was found. They dug down two feet through garden
mould, four feet through the common yellow earth, one
foot through fine sand, and the remainder of the depth
through coarse sand, and from this bed, never before
disturbed, the " nail " was taken. It will be easily un-
derstood how this find excited attention and started
theories ; but this is neither the first nor the only in-
stance in America where on a casual digging artificial
products have been found,* in all probability of Euro-
pean origin. Hence it may be supposed, with every
show of reason, that long before the discovery by
Columbus of this part of the earth European ships
bound for other regions by wind and weather were
turned out of their course and wrecked on the shores
of America, and their crews deprived of the means of
return either died of starvation or were murdered by
the inhabitants. From the wreckage of such ill-fated
ships the roving Indians may well have taken things
strange to them, as a nail must have been, and since
they everywhere had their settlements on streams and
creeks it is easily fancied how this nail came where it
was. What space of time may have been required to

* Kalm mentions several, foreign to the Americas, and dis-
covered deep in the earth — It is told at Bethlehem that in
Jersey not many years ago a board was taken out at a depth
of 36 ft. — Mr. du Sumitiere, at Philadelphia, makes the. state-
ment on the authority of responsible people that a spoon was
found on the ' Neck ' four feet below the surface, and in
Front-street an old sword at a depth of 19 ft. A large and
heavy iron hammer of peculiar make was dug up at a depth of
many feet, in Maryland, and an iron axe 20 ft. deep some-
where in Virginia. Very probably there have been similar
finds + not made known generally.

142 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

bury it in sand under ten feet of earth might possibly
be estimated if for any given place it was exactly
known how much sand and earth was deposited by the
yearly fresh and a like amount reckoned for each year
of a term.

Much good earthen-ware is burnt here and the neigh-
borhood far around supplied. I should be tedious if
I undertook to mention all that is good and beautiful in
this little place and among its inhabitants, of whom
there are those plying most of the useful arts and
crafts. Their manufactures are not yet enough to
supply them with all they need, but they have among
themselves the most important and are obliged to bring
in very little, and so much the less because the uni-
formity and frugality of their way of life admit of few
wants. Unlike their sister colonies at Neuwied, Ebers-
dorf &c, they have not yet established the finer branches
of manufactures, the fewness of their numbers and the
circumstances of their situation not rendering these
feasible.

The good order and the comfortable prosperity,
which are so especially pleasing to every foreigner, are
the fruits of religion and piety, activity, and industry.
Everyone is occupied and whatever is made shows in-
trinsic goodness and the marks of judicious pains-tak-
ing. Here are seen the effects of the same causes
which I mentioned when speaking of the Quakers —
the time wasted by the greatest part of mankind in
idleness or unprofitable pleasures is here applied un-
ceasingly in the best manner and for the common good.
What a land might not America already be if all the
inhabitants had fashioned themselves on the pattern of
the community at Bethlehem. Certainly they make

FROM PHILADELPHIA 143

excellent citizens for any land — and in America, in a
shorter time than any other people, they have changed
numerous wildernesses to flourishing spots.

The hills about Bethlehem consist of the common,
coarse, grey limestone in which, as elsewhere, occur
hardly any traces of petrifactions. Beyond the Le-
heigh in a shaly rock, (presumably limestone also)
large cavities are often found, when the stone is split,
full of a fine yellowish meal which they use here for
blotting strew-sand : in the meal there always occurs a
spherical pyrites. On another declivity beyond the
river there are to be seen, I am told, remarkable stone-
falls, i. e. large flaws are found hollowed out of the
rock-wall and stuffed with little pieces of stone of the
same description as the solid rock — as if designedly
broken up and poured in. By reason of later changes it
could not be accurately determined what was the cause
of this local disturbance of a former time. Similar
stone-falls are not rare in other parts of America.
Also, landslips (as they are here called), tunnel-like
hollows 20-30 ft. and more in depth and section are
not infrequently found in these limestone hills and are
caused by the shifting and sinking of the rock-beds at
a depth. For the same reason caverns are almost al-
ways found under landslips, but they are not every-
where of easy access.

Some six miles from Bethlehem and two from Dur-
ham on the Delaware there is a rather large cave of
which people at Philadelphia already talk with respect
under the name of the grotto of Durham. Mr. Otto,
the younger, has several times visited the cave. It is
near the ferry, opens towards the north, is probably
150-160 ft. deep, has a sloping course, but is wide

144 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

enough and high enough to be traversed without stoop-
ing. This cave is likewise in a limestone hill, but is
said to contain no stalactites.

The lime which is burned from the grey limestone
common here must be used fresh, because otherwise it
worsens very fast and loses its best binding qualities.
I was told at Philadelphia that agates, carnelian-stones,
and fine pebbly flint-stones (all these are called there
moccas or mocca-stones) are found in great numbers
in this region, but they knew nothing of such stones
here ; nearer to the mountains, they said, there are
such stones found. Likewise there was much told me
regarding a silver-ore from the Nazareth region, but
I was unable to procure any of it.

All the European pot-herbs flourish exceedingly at
Bethlehem, under the good care of exact and inde-
fatigable gardeners. They have very fine colly-
flowers which will not do well in New York and
Philadelphia gardens — the sea-air which is given as
the reason of failure cannot be so contrary, for colly-
flowers are raised excellently well on the coasts of Hol-
land and also in England. The explanation is rather to
be sought in careless looking-after — Peach and pear
trees, which elsewhere yield much good fruit, sicken
here after a few years and die in numbers ; it is Mr.
Otto's opinion that insects are the cause. For sundry
observations on the medicinal properties of certain
indigenous plants I must thank the experienced Mr.
Otto. It is not generally known that the European
juniper-bush grows easily from twigs stuck in the
earth, after the manner of most cuttings from leaf-
trees. In Mr. Otto's garden are several shrubs grown
from the planted twig.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 145

Their love of peace and quiet cost the Moravian
Brethren dear during the last war. On the one hand
suspected of adherence to the royalist cause, and on
the other prevented by their principles from taking up
arms, they had to pay double taxes, (like the Quakers
and other religious sects similar to them in this matter),
and were grievously burdened with many charges
besides.

Bethlehem is the principal seat of the Moravian
Brethren in North America, and thence are managed
the affairs of their other and smaller communities, of
which already there are many. In the neighborhood
of Bethlehem are Nazareth, Christiansbrunn, Scho'n-
eck, Gnadenthal, and Gnadenhiitten. In Jersey there
is a considerable community at Hope, and others
smaller elsewhere. In North Carolina + Salem is their
chief place, from which Bethabara is seven and Beth-
ania 17 miles distant. Besides, there are communities
and meeting-houses at Philadelphia, New York, New-
port, and Lancaster.

Their activities are not restricted merely to those
regions settled by Europeans. Through tireless zeal
and wonderful patience they have succeeded in mak-
ing a wholesome impression on several of the Indian
nations. Beyond the mountains, on the Muskingum
(a stream flowing from the north into the Ohio) they
formed a numerous and hopeful community, confessing
the Christian religion, from nations not easily to be
tamed in any other manner. In three of their colonies,
Schonbrunn, Gnadenhiitten, and Salem,* many Indian

* Gnadenhiitten and Salem — two Indian villages — are not to
be confused with the settlements of the same name in Pen-
sylvania and North Carolina. These Indian villages lay 160-
170 English miles west of Pittsburg.
10

U6 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

families * have already come to live, under the over-
sight of directors and pastors, dwelling together
quietly and peaceably in well-built wigwams, having
renounced war and the chase, accustoming themselves
gradually to the tillage of the land, and so laying the
first foundations of a civilized way of life. Similar
attempts have been made with success by the Jesuit
missionaries in Canada and in Florida, and by blame-
less, pious men f in the English colonies ; and by these
it has been proved that the so-called American savages
under a milder and more intelligent treatment are not
so absolutely incapable of a moral life as had been
commonly imagined. It is very general in America

* " At the beginning of the year 1781 there were at Schon-
brunn 143, at Gnadenhiitten 135, and at Salem 105, of whom
315 baptized and 68 unbaptized (mostly children), in all 385
persons " The bringing together of this Christian Indian
colony was due to the efforts some 30 years ago of an Indian
named Papunhank. At first these Indians lived at Whihaloo-
sing on the Susquehannah, 200 miles from Philadelphia. But
when European colonists began to increase in their neighbor-
hood and grew troublesome the Indians voluntarily removed
to the Muskingum. An especial cause of their removal was to
escape the danger of intoxicating drinks, which had been
brought among them by their new neighbors and were making
idle all their efforts at keeping the peace and living orderly.
Papunhank, on a visit to Philadelphia, had particularly re-
quested that nobody give his people strong drinks or send any
to them where they lived.

t Thomas Mayhew, John Elliot and others in Maryland who
have left accounts of the happy outcome of their labors. Later
accounts, with proofs of the Indian susceptibility of moral and
religious instruction, are contained in, David Brainard's Mira-
bilia Dei inter Indicos, or The Rise and progress of a remark-
able Work of Grace amongst a number of Indians, in the
Provinces of New Jersey & Pensylvania &c.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 147

to bring out the blackest and most hateful side of the
Indian character in order the more easily to justify and
excuse every unrighteous and grewsome act committed
against them, and gladly committed. In confirmation
there may be given in passing the following sad and
little known story, of the inhuman treatment which a
part of these christianized Indians suffered without
cause at the «hands of their neighbors who call them-
selves more enlightened and more moral.

The three Indian settlements on the Muskingum
(known under the general name of the Moravian
Indians) found themselves at the beginning of the last
war in a very unpleasant situation. They were often
urged by the contesting parties to join in the war, but
they remained constant to their adopted principles,
kept quietly neutral, and regarded not the threats and
maltreatment to which they were subjected by other
Indian nations taking part in the war. As was neces-
sary in their uncertain situation they bore themselves
patiently with roving parties of the one side and of the
other. For in their expeditions through the wild
woods between Canada and the farther regions of
Pensylvania and Virginia both sides were glad to turn
in for supplies at the Moravian villages. I have heard
American officers, sent out against hostile Indian tribes
far back on the Mississippi and the Ohio and on their
return visiting the settlements of these Christian In-
dians, speak of the great pleasure it was to find so un-
expectedly evidences of good order and careful manage-
ment— they and their men, after long marches through
a wild country, being in want of supplies, the good
Indians gave them everything they could spare and
were only rejoiced to be left undisturbed to the minis-

148 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

trations of their spiritual directors. With the same
amiable hospitality, they received those bands of In-
dians from Canada, allies of the English, who came
through their settlements going towards the back parts
of Pensylvania and Virginia. So far were they from
encouraging hostilities against the outlying settlers of
the American states, that on the contrary it is well
known how by their representations they at times
turned aside certain Indian warriors from murderous
designs against the settlers. However, they were un-
able to escape the suspicions of both sides, parties to
the war. The American frontiersmen conceived that
they suffered all the more from the massacring ex-
peditions of the English Indians, especially the San-
duskys, so long as these were able to get supplies from
the Moravian villages, without which support they
could not long maintain themselves in those otherwise
desolate regions. On the other hand, those Indians
allied with the English harbored suspicion against the
Moravians on the ground that they gave the frontiers-
men information of their movements and so enabled
the settlers to escape craftily contrived ambushments —
they laid it to the account of the Moravians if their
plans were balked by the flight of the settlers.

Therefore both sides undertook by cunning or force
to remove the Moravian Indians from their villages.
On the part of the Americans the proposal was that
they withdraw from the Muskingum to the neighbor-
hood of Pittsburg. They rejected this offer because
they preferred to remain in their comfortable dwell-
ings and on their lands, and because they were un-
willing, against their known principles, to declare
themselves so openly for one of the parties at war.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 149

More stringent measures, apparently, were adopted by
the Canadian Indians, allies of the English. During
the first days of August 1781 a message, with a wam-
pum-string, was sent the Moravian Indians by the
so-called half-king or chief of the Wyandots : " that
' a great number of warriors were coming, but they
' should have no fear for he was their friend and was
' coming himself." After a few days 200 warriors
appeared. The chiefs and all the heads of families
from the three villages were summoned and it was an-
nounced to them, ' They had come to take them away,
' because the Brethren and their Indians were in their
" way, and a great hindrance to them in their expedi-
' tions of war." To this unexpected outgiving the
Moravian Indians made answer : : That they held it
" impossible at that season of the year to undertake
' such a journey, because they should have to leave
" behind their grain and so could look for nothing for
* their children but death from hunger in the wilder-
' ness." The leader of the Wyandots and his council
appeared disposed to grant the reasonableness of these
views. The warriors were already making prepara-
tions for the return journey but certain Englishmen
who were of the company egged them on to carry out
their first intention, and now towards the end of Au-
gust or the first of September the Moravian Indians
were compelled to leave their three settlements, the
Wyandots having burned their fences, killed their
cattle, and done much other mischief so as to hasten
their going. After a tiresome journey of four weeks
through the wilderness all the inhabitants of the three
villages came to an arm of the Sandusky river which
flows into Lake Erie. Here they were to remain and

150 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

here were bidden take up their abode for the future.
Within a short space they had built for themselves a new
meeting-house and some sixty block-houses. Their
new dwelling-place was 100 miles from their former
settlements and a like distance from Detroit. The
chiefs and a few of the most regarded of the Indian
Brethren were summoned to Detroit by the English
Governor (Major Arent Schuyler de Peyster) who at
once set aside the charges brought against them and
told them that they were to remain at that place only
during the winter and, come spring, might go and
plant anywhere in the country they wished, but nearer
Pittsburg they could not go. As it turned out, this
forcible removal of the Moravian Indians from their
villages was undertaken with the consent of the Gov-
ernor at Detroit and was brought about in the first
instance through motives of philanthropy. This was
the reason why the destruction which menaced the
whole of these Indian communities befel only a part
of them. There were good reasons to fear that these
harmless Indians, delaying on the Muskingum after
their refusal to transfer themselves to Pittsburg, would
be exposed to great maltreatment at the hands of the
frontiersmen of the farther regions of the American
states, suspicious of them and embittered. The result
confirmed these apprehensions.

In the spring of 1782 certain of the Moravian In-
dians asked permission to go to the Muskingum in
order to fetch back some of the grain which at the time
of their marching off they had left standing in the
fields. On the Sandusky they were in great want of
grain and every other necessity of life. Receiving per-
mission for the journey, a number of them set out ac-

FROM PHILADELPHIA 151

companied by sundry of their wives and widows with
their children. News soon reached the settlers along
the Monongahela that a number of Indians had ap-
peared in the Moravian villages, and from there were
intending to fall upon the frontier settlements — this
was given out in palliation of the subsequent inhuman
proceedings. However, from other circumstances
demonstrable it is more than likely that it was known
perfectly well who these Indians were and what their
intentions were. Towards the end of February 1782
there assembled on the Monongahela probably 160
white Christians, citizens of the united free American
states, who set out on horses for the Muskingum to
forestall, so they gave out, the hostile plans of the
Indians there.* There came forward as the leader of
this party a certain Williamson, Colonel in the Virginia
militia, a monster whose name should hardly be men-
tioned. As they drew near the Moravian villages, in
and about them they observed industriously occupied
Indians who made not the least sign as if to run or to
offer resistance. Although at first this sudden visit
alarmed them, they assembled without delay at the call
of the white Christians, (who greeted them in pre-
tended friendship), and quietly allowed themselves to
be made captive. The whole number was 53 grown
men and women and 42 children. It is never the

* No sooner was news of this undertaking received at Pitts-
burg than the American garrison there and all the right-
thinking men of the place became alarmed for the safety of
the Christian Indians. Colonel Gibson sent messengers to the
Muskingum to inform them, if there, of the danger threaten-
ing them and of his anxieties in consequence. These messen-
gers came too late.

152 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

custom of the Indians to take with them children and
women when they are on the war path. When sur-
prised they were busy making sugar (from maple
sap) and gathering their spoiled corn. As Christian
Indians they gave themselves up to their supposed
friends, and they told them that a small store of wine
which was found among them was their communion
wine. They manifested the greatest pleasure when the
white Christians explained to them in reassurance that
for the safety of both parties they had come to take
them to Pittsburg. But after Williamson and his
party had further advised together what should in fact
be done with these peaceable, unarmed captives, men,
women, and children, the unanimous conclusion of the
white American Christians was that on the following
day without any exception they should all — be put to
death. And immediately this judgment was an-
nounced to the captives, with the addition that since
they were Christian Indians they might in a Christian
manner prepare themselves, for on the morrow they
must die. This sudden message of death prostrated
them indeed but they went about patiently and spent
the night singing and praying. The next morning
they were taken to two houses chosen for the purpose,
(and still expressively called the slaughter-houses),
led bound two and two, first the men and then the
women and children, and without mercy were mur-
dered in cold blood and scalped. They met death with
extraordinary patience and resignation. After this
blood drenching, begun by Williamson, the two houses
were filled with the bodies of the slain, and the whole
was set on fire and destroyed. Their horses, blankets,
and other possessions, which they were allowed before-

FROM PHILADELPHIA 153

hand carefully to collect, were taken as good booty and
publicly sold at Pittsburg. All this befel the villages
of Salem and Gnadenhiitten. At Schonbrunn there
were still some thirty Indians. But a boy who had
been scalped at Gnadenhiitten and left for dead in a
house there, contriving to escape in the night brought
news of what had happened, to Schonbrunn 10 miles
away — the Indians there took flight and escaped the
bloodthirsty murderers, who came thither the next
morning to repeat the scene of the day before, but
could only burn the empty village.

Unheard of as were these murderous proceedings,*
abominated by every individual right-thinking man,
the murderer who gave the orders was not called to
account officially, — for he acted without any orders
except the promptings of his own bloodthirsty soul.
He boasted of his deeds and exhibited everywhere his
bloodstained hatchet. Eternal shame to the states.
But this was the maxim throughout the war, to wreak
vengeance on the innocent and allow no man justice.
Whole nations of Indians were aroused by this occur-
rence to a zealous prosecution of the war and they
redoubled their attacks in order to avenge the death
of their Moravian brethren.

We left Bethlehem (the evening of the 9th of
August) and came 10 miles to Nazareth, through a

* No longer so unheard of ! For a pendant to this story,
Vid. Hamb. Polit. Journal, 1787, p. 474 " The war with the
" Indians has been begun by the Americans in a rather Indian
" fashion. They fell upon the Indian chiefs who according to
" their custom had assembled in council. After this slaughter
" some 1900 of the Shawanese Indians swore blood-vengeance "
— which will be thought extremely unreasonable in America !

154 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

high-lying country but for half the way pretty level.
The region is not yet much settled, but here and there
a farm is seen. The road was straight, almost due
north, and with the dry weather extraordinarily good.
The forests consisted for the greater part of white,
red, and black oak, with very little undergrowth.
There appeared frequently a dwarf willow, not more
than 3-4 ft. high, with small leaves. All this high
land between Bethlehem and Nazareth, and off to-
wards Easton, goes by the name of the dry land.
And it is indeed dry. This tract, chiefly limestone
soil, contains few springs, slow, and found only in cer-
tain lower spots ; and often water is in vain dug for to
a great depth. None of the dug wells is less than 80
ft. deep, and in some places they have gone as deep as
136 ft. through the limestone and found only weak
veins of water going dry in summer. The inhabitants
who begin to be numerous are here in bad case. Their
grass crops are insignificant, and during the winter
they have to feed their cattle on turnips, or stubble and
other dry fodder. Most of the houses get their water
one, two, and three miles away, for which purpose
each establishment keeps a special wagon with a barrel.
One stream, the Monocacy, goes quite dry in sum-
mer ; we passed it without knowing it. The pasturing
cattle wander far around looking for puddles. But
cattle easily grow accustomed to infrequent supplies
of water, can indeed quite dispense with water for a
long time, if there is green pasturage or (as the rule
is in America) if the stock remains out day and night
and can get refreshment from the falling dew. I
know certainly that on Long Island horses as well as
horned cattle were enclosed throughout a long, hot,

FROM PHILADELPHIA 155

and dry summer in a thin fallow pasture where there
was no water at all and the puddles were dry from
long drouths, and yet kept healthy and fat. Sufficient
moisture was supplied them, partly by plant juices and
partly by the dews of the morning, but these were in-
frequent. It is known besides that in some of the
West India islands, Antigua for example, where all
the supply of water is from rains or must be fetched
from other islands, cattle are never able to get a drink
of water, but live solely by the moisture in the vegeta-
tion. Notwithstanding the dearth of water, much
cattle is raised in this dry tract. For the rest, the land
is fruitful in grain and there are a good many pros-
perous farms of which only a few are settled by
Moravians, but the industrious example they give their
neighbors has an influence which is not to be mis-
taken— for everywhere hereabouts one sees good build-
ings and good management.

Nazareth was settled later than Bethlehem; and so
numbers only about 20 houses, but of a good and
spacious design, among which there are a House of the
Brothers, an Assembly-house, and a ware-house. The
plan of the place is more regular than that of Bethle-
hem, where the ground does not allow of a regular
plan. As yet there is only one street, short and
straight, leading to a pretty large square, half sur-
rounded by buildings. Here also there are no wells,
but from the springs of a neighboring hill an abundant
supply of excellent water is had which is brought
through the little town in pipes along one side of the
street and at certain distances is distributed through
pumps. All of the inhabitants have their trades and
do not concern themselves with agriculture. They

156 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

have their own minister who at present is Mr.
Laembner.

In Mr. William Henry, a rifle-maker, I got to know
a modest and sagacious man. He not only under-
stands his art thoroughly but occupies himself with other
branches of knowledge. From him I obtained some
Indian arrow-points such as they at one time worked
from the hardest carnelian and agate. Since the In-
dians exchanged their bows for fire-arms, the art has
been lost among them of making these and other
utensils, such as pottery, tobacco-bowls &c, from dif-
ferent sorts of stone. Arrow-points like these are now
found only by chance in fields or other places where
Indians on the hunt had lost them. In this region
several rifle-makers are occupied in the making and
repair of arms for the Indians as well as for other
people of the country. At Mr. Henry's I saw a little
piece of a fine, yellow sort of marl which had been
dug up not far away at a depth of 15 ft. Near Beth-
lehem, on the other side of the Leheigh, marl is fre-
quently found at a less depth, but coarser and not of
a uniform color. The people of the back country
yearn for marl because they imagine it to be a uni-
versal manure and fancy it might save them the trouble
(which they do not like at all) of collecting other
manure — and should they find it there it would not be
suited to their lands which are more sand than clay.
Mr. Henry mentioned that he had several times found
about Nazareth sand-stones containing a core, ap-
parently lime. Sand-stones are also found which are
hard enough to be squared, but there are too many
quartz-veins in them. The limestone hills which begin
about Easton continue between and around Nazareth

FROM PHILADELPHIA 157

and Bethlehem, next the Leheigh, Flying, and Oley-
hills.

The upper strata of this region in many places ap-
peared to consist chiefly of a fine black slate, which
should be found quite adequate for every common
use, but is not used because the preparation costs too
much. Under this slate, wherever it appears, is the
grey limestone which also comes to the surface fre-
quently ; and near to the town, along the road, there
occurs a light grey schist from which good lime is
burned. All the fields are strewn with quartz, at times
white, at times reddish ; and in many of these stones
are seen thin layers of black slate and quartz alter-
nating. The commoner soil, on the high places espe-
cially, is of the general yellow-red, clayey sand de-
scription ; only the low spots are black and fertile.
Where the slate can be found somewhat deeper, its
lowest beds appear like a rather dense pit-coal ; and
somewhere in the region it is claimed that coal has
been dug up. — In the off-hang of a wood we found
sundry beautiful plants in tolerable quantity, the
Canadian cypripedium, helonias, the blue lobelia, the
collinsonia, and many others. When in full bloom as
now, the collinsonia fills the air with a strong and
pleasant odor. Nazareth lies at a considerable height
above the sea, but I could not learn that anybody had
had the curiosity to determine in any way what the
height is. The weather however seemed to us quite as
hot as we had found it on the coast. Here also the
complaint was that cherry and pear trees for some
years had not done well, but no certain explanation
could be given. A gardener said that the reason was
the gum worked out too much and insects lodged in

158 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

it. Plum trees, planted in the ware-house garden,
bloomed full every year and yielded abundant fruit.
But at one time either the blooms dropped or the fruit
was lost before ripe. They assured me that the evil
was remedied by boring two holes in every tree, one
near the ground and the other higher up, both going
clear through the trunk, and in each of which a piece
of iron was stuck. Certainly, since this operation
blooms and fruit do not fall so much as before. In
other parts of America there are very few pear trees ;
it is said that along the coast they will not stand the
climate, but it might turn out differently if good ex-
periments were tried.

I had heard of sundry ores, among others a silver-
ore, to be found in the neighborhood of Nazareth, but
wherever I enquired people knew only of similar
stories told of places more distant. But there was
everywhere the belief, so common in all mountain
countries, that really many treasures lay buried in the
dear earth, if only one had them or knew how to find
them.

Nazareth has a very good and clean tavern. In
peace times the road this way is much travelled, from
Philadelphia to Canada, Albany, and New England.
But the excursions of the Indians made this road dur-
ing the war extremely unsafe. Before the war this
was the customary route of Indians travelling to Phila-
delphia, but they were never pleasant guests at Naza-
reth. There was a strict regulation that no Indian
should be given more than half a gill of rum, and then
only on payment of the cash money, two laws that the
Indians did not willingly conform to, and not to be set
aside without danger, if the consequences of their

FROM PHILADELPHIA 159

brutal drunkenness were to be avoided. The people of
Wyoming are now again beginning to travel this road
more frequently, after having, for a long time, dared
use it only at the peril of their lives. These people,
among whom we shall shortly be, are described by our
host as a lawless and rude populace.

From Nazareth we travelled (Aug. loth) North
and North-west. At a little distance from the place
the Blue Mountains come in sight. A mile on is Schbn-
eck, an incipient village of the Moravian Brethren.
There are only a few houses and families, but several
families of the neighborhood are counted as of the
community, and at Schoneck they have their meeting-
house.

A mile beyond we entered all at once what appeared
to be a tract of public and vacant land. All the hills
about, as far as the eye could reach, were grown up
with the bush oak (Quercus nana, Dwarf oak).*
Only here and there stood a chesnut quite alone, or
one of the other oaks. We overlooked in part and in
part passed through some thousands of acres of land
bearing nothing but this description of oak. Their

* This bush oak was similar to that growing on Long Island
and called Qu. Ilicifolia by von Wangenheim (Vid. his Ameri-
kanische Holzarten, p. 79). Marshall in his American Grove
calls it Dwarf black oak (Quercus nigra pumila} — But Mar-
shall makes dwarf varieties of almost every kind of oak,
according as it is a growth of poor, thin soil. Thus he has a
Quercus alba minor, Barren White Oak. Quercus rubra nana,
Dwarf Barren Oak. Qtfercus prinus humilis, Dwarf Chesnut
or Chinquapin Oak — In this way there might be dwarf vari-
eties of every sort of tree, wherever there is lack of nourish-
ment in the soil — and the question may still be put, whether
this oak is an independent variety.

160 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

twisted and bushy stems seldom exceeded a height of
3-4 ft. ; at times we observed trees of 10-12 ft. or even 15
ft., but very few of them. These oaks seem to take
possession of this dry and infertile hill country as if
by privilege. And there is found among them besides
scarcely any variety of other plants. We noticed only
the Actcca racemosa (which we missed hardly any-
where along the whole road), the Galega virginiana,
Sophora tinctoria, Gerardia, and a few others, along
with a dry bristly grass. In the lower valleys between
these hills the other oaks occur, as also the Chesnut
Oak which is seldom seen elsewhere in this region.
The land grown up in this dwarf oak is of very little
value. The people living near by set fire to the bush
every spring, in order to give air to the grass beneath
and so furnish their cattle a little pasture. However,
the growth comes out again, although the bark is al-
most coaled. Fire seems to do them little hurt, where-
as the chesnut and other tree-oaks stand among them
dry and scorched. Nobody cares to buy this land or
put it to use. For should the fire kill the dwarf oak,
it would mean more labor than elsewhere to dig up the
roots standing thick together. It is a rare prospect
over this extensive tract of low bush-growth, made all
the finer by the nearness of the Blue Mountains — but,
however agreeable, it is little inviting to the planter.
Everywhere these oaks are taken to be a symptom of
an unkind soil. Not a single dwelling is discovered
among them ; everything is desolate and void. Even
wild beasts and birds dislike to live here, where they
find neither food nor shade nor shelter. The whole
way from Nazareth to Heller's House, eight miles,
we came upon only three houses, standing in the hoi-

FROM PHILADELPHIA 161

lows, of which the best was at Bushkill. But the road
was for the most part good, and the grades gently
sloping. However, these hills and foothills are very
broken, cut irregularly by valleys in divers directions.

Our quarters for the night were at Heller's, a lone-
some tavern at the foot of the Blue or Kittatinny
Mountain. Already a good many settlers, especially
Germans, have come to live here, in a narrow but
pleasant valley, and scattered as they are in the bush
one hardly knows they are there. It was a Sunday
and .we found assembled at the tap-house, (according
to the traditional German custom), a numerous com-
pany of German farmers of the neighborhood, who
were making good cheer with their cyder and cyder-
oil. Cyder-oil is a pretty strong drink ; it consists of
the combustible spirits of cyder, mixed again, in divers
proportions, with cyder of the best grade.

The farmers were not very well content with their
lands. The nearness of the mountains brings them in
winter unpleasant visits from wolves and now and
then bears. And there is no lack of other sorts of
game ; deer and foxes are numerous ; elks * wander
hither at times. The turkey-cock is seen more fre-
quently here than nearer towards the coast. The
passage-dove (Columba migratoria) which appears
along the coast only in the spring and autumn, moving

*From several descriptions furnished by people hereabouts,
it seems that they give the name Elk to the Moose as well as
to the Canadian Stag, + and so give rise to errors. Both ani-
mals come down from the North where the one is known as
Moose, Black Moose, or Original, and the other (the Cana-
dian stag) as Grey Moose, to distinguish it from the first.

11

162 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

to warmer climates or coming thence, is found here
now in pairs.

The celebrated Blue Mountains appear from here
not so high and praiseworthy as, from descriptions, I
had been led to expect. What gives them a particular
face, at a certain distance, is their lying so straight the
one after the other. Thus the first range (at the foot
of which we are here) seen from Heller's house ex-
tends south as it were a steep wall ; the little foot-hills
and offsets and other irregularities disappear in the
view of the great and uniform whole with its cover-
ing of forest. Measured from its foot, the height of this
first range, called particularly the Blue or Kittatiny
Mountain (and under this name extending from
Jersey through Virginia) is by no means considerable.
Beyond Heller's house, a mile to the north, is a natural
pass, from three-quarters of a mile to a mile wide, the
so-called Wind Gap which vastly lightens the labor
of crossing the mountain, the cut being at least half
the height of the mountain and only a moderate climb
remaining. It is not easily guessed what was the
cause of this section through the otherwise pretty uni-
form ridge. No water flows through this gap. Per-
haps ten miles to the north-east there is another open-
ing through the mountain where the Delaware crosses
and hence called Delaware Gap ; a third, and the nar-
rowest, is to the south-west, also at no great distance ;
the Leheigh comes through this and its name is the
Water Gap. There is a very fine view at this gap, it
is said.

In the Kittatiny the rock-species is a hard, fine-
grained Cos, either grey, whitish, or verging on red.
Fragments lay along the road in vast quantities and

FROM PHILADELPHIA 163

of every size but with no indications of a water-polish-
ing. This sort of stone, that is, appears at the surface
and covers the backs of the mountain. But near the
Delaware Gap, about Easton, mill-stones are quarried,
of a rough and sharp-grained quartzose sort of stone,
which with other circumstances inclines me to think
that this or a similar stone lies beneath the first. On
the north-western slope of the mountain the red soil
appears again ; and beneath it patches of a fine brown
earth very like umber, in every case surrounded by a
paler earth. This would certainly make a good dye-
earth.

The Kittatiny is crossed without especial difficulty
and in the next valley one comes to Eckard's house,
3-4 miles from Heller's. The man who lived there
had the place for a third of the nett income from all
produce ; but there is the stipulation that every year
six acres of land shall be cleared of wood and made
ploughable — that is to say, four acres of upland and
two of bottoms. These are hard conditions.

Beyond this house the next mountain (much lower
than the Blue Mountain, but running in the same di-
rection) contains a blue limestone; the darker the color
the better it is held to be. Along the road over this
hill no limestone comes to the surface, only sandstone ;
with it is a horn-stone or agate which in color and ex-
terior appearance resembles the limestone but strikes
fire on steel.

Leaving Eckardt's we got out of the straight road
which we should have followed to Brinker's Mill, and
bore to the right, in this way passing by several plan-
tations which we should not have looked for here.
These lie scattered in the forest-vallevs and are settled

164 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

mostly by Germans, who are well satisfied in such re-
mote regions where they can have land at a trifling
cost. We passed a little wooden meeting-house which
serves alternately as a place of worship for a Lutheran
and a Reformed congregation. Pastor Weber lately
had charge of these congregations, but he mispleased
because he preached too much of the war ; they asked
him to leave and he was under the necessity of with-
drawing to Pittsburg. The first settlers of these
wastes came a few years after the last peace and be-
fore their numbers grew somewhat, had many hard-
ships to bear. The neighborhood of Indians, at that
time still numerous there, was not the most agreeable.
They had to fetch in all their necessities and seed-
grain a distance of 50 miles, and if they wanted bread
were obliged to go 30 miles and more to the nearest
mill. For fear of the Indians, during the recent dis-
turbances, many left their cabins, which now stand
deserted and gone to ruin.

We reached Brinker's Mill not before midday
(three and a half miles from Eckardt's) and found
the family over a repast customary here but which in
Germany the farmer permits himself only on festive
occasions : young chickens and rice. — Three more miles
to Dieter's who settled here just ten years ago. He
was at that time quite alone and had many Indians
around him who at first caused him great uneasiness
but later showed themselves placable. But when he
began to bring more and more land into cultivation
and found it necessary to take up for meadow a field
planted by the Indians in wild red plums, that dis-
gusted them and they went away. They are very fond
of this insipid fruit, which grows wild in the woods,

FROM PHILADELPHIA 165

and plant the seeds wherever they stay for any time.
And so these plums, not much bigger or better than
sloes, are called Indian Plums.*

The land in this wilderness shows good spots only
here and there, in low places. The high land is dry
and owes its green appearance merely to the thick bush
growth ; there is no good grass and little pasture for
cattle, and were bush and forest once taken off, the soil
would grow thinner and thirstier. The woods still
showed all sorts of oaks, black and white walnuts,
elms, elders, sassafras, maples &c., but few pines. All
the dwellings are block-houses, so-called (houses of
squared timber) and stand mostly near streams or
brooks. The farms, unlike those less remote, are un-
fenced — living far apart and the cattle keeping mostly
in the woods, people do not take the trouble to fence.
The first and most important crop of these mountain
people is corn, and then potatoes ; these supply the
necessary food for themselves and their cattle. What
else they need comes from hunting and the sale of
skins. These farmers, as they express it in their Eng-
lish-German machen es just so aus, make out pretty
well, which is to say, they do not get rich, have a
plenty to eat and drink, do little work, and pay no
taxes.

We staid the night at Sebitz's, whose house is the

* These Indian Plums thrive in low rich spots, where they
grow to a height of 5-6 ft. The leaves are spear-shaped, twice
as long as broad, sharply dented, and pointed. The fruit
grows single, is round like an egg, and at maturity reddish.
There are, however, several varieties of this native wild plum
— Prunus sylvestris, fructu majori rubente — Gron. ft. virg.,
and Prunus americana, Marshall's Amer. Grove, p. 112.

166 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

last, absolutely, on the road to Wyoming, a distance
reckoned at 37 and one half miles from here. There-
fore Sebitz regards the ' Great Swamp ' as his best
friend — because all travellers, coming or going, are
compelled to stop with him, and in consequence his
house, however sorry and draughty, is well supported
as a tavern. The entertainment in woods-hotels of this
stamp, in lonesome and remote spots throughout
America, consists generally of bacon, ham and eggs,
fresh or dried venison, coffee, tea, butter, milk, cheese,
rum, corn-whiskey or brandy, and cyder. And every-
thing clean.

Sebitz, a German Anabaptist, settled here some nine
years ago, and two or three neighbors about the same
time. He paid for the land I Pd. Pensylv. Current the
acre. For fear of the Indians all his neighbors left
him during the war ; he alone had the courage to stay,
notwithstanding a whole family was murdered a mile
from his house. Often he was surrounded by Indians
who simply lurked about waiting for somebody to
open the door or come outside (for it is not their way
to enter a house forcibly) ; and they shot down his
horses and cattle. To be sure, he had with him a
militia guard because this place was looked upon as
an outpost ; but they lived all together behind closed
doors and barricaded, in continual fear of death ; they
opened to nobody without a close examination as to
whether who knocked was friend or foe. Such is the
doleful case of the frontiersman in times of an Indian
war.

We met a troop of carpenters here who were like-
wise on the way to Wyoming, to re-build a mill burned
down by the Indians. We were very glad of their

FROM PHILADELPHIA 167

company, because we had 37 and a half miles to go,
through wilderness, the road bad and several streams
to cross — and must drive the distance if we were to
avoid spending the night in the woods. We got early
upon the road (Aug. I2th) but reached our destination
not until after sunset. That part of the mountains
beyond the Kittatiny and between the Delaware and
the Eastern arm of the Susquehannah is called in sev-
eral maps St. Anthony's Wilderness. I could not
learn how St. Anthonius, who is not much known else-
where in America, received this honor. The region is
better known by the name, above-mentioned, of the
Great Swamp, which designation applies in strictness

•

only to a part. The entrance to this unpeopled waste
is, at one point, through the gap in the Pokono
Mountain, pretty high but not steep. Then the Pokono
creek is passed and the road lies up that stream six
miles to White-oak Run, a frightful and narrow path
over stump and stone. Then follows upland, with a few
smaller hills. The whole way the road is grown up
on both sides in bush, notwithstanding that fire has
often passed over and left standing great numbers of
fine trunks half-burnt. These fires in the woods spread
at times accidentally from the camp-fires of travellers,
and again the woods are purposely burned by hunters
who post themselves behind the wind and wait for
game frightened out by the fire and smoke. Farther
on, we got into the veritable Great Swamp, so-called,
which extends only 15 miles across but no one knows
how far it lies to the north and south. Really, the
whole of this region is not what is commonly called
swamp, several mountains and valleys being included
under the name. I do not trust myself to give a pic-

168 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

ture of this region. The road cut through is nowhere
more than six foot wide, and full of everything which
can make trouble for the passenger. On both sides the
forest so thick that the trees almost touch, by their
height and their matted branches making a dimness,
cold and fearful even at noon of the clearest day. All
beneath is grown up in green and impenetrable bush.
Everywhere lie fallen trees, or those half-fallen, despite
of their weight not reaching the ground. — Thousands
of rotten and rotting trunks cover the ground, and
make every step uncertain ; and between lies a fat bed
of the richest mould that sucks up like a sponge all
the moisture and so becomes swampy almost every-
where. One can with difficulty penetrate this growth
even a little way and not without danger of coming
too near this or that sort of snake lying hidden from
the sharpest eye in the waste of stones, leaves, and
roots. Nature shows itself here quite in its original
wildness. The trees were still of the same sorts as
in the country behind. A particularly deep and nar-
row valley in this great swamp is The Shades of
Death; its steep mountain sides are distinguished by
a great number of the tallest and slimmest pines, with
white and hemlock spruce, and these are mixed below
with a profuse and beautiful growth of rhododendron
and calamus, their roots waxing lustily in deep beds
of the richest mould. One must imagine for himself
the effect of a very narrow, steep, stony, marshy, mel-
ancholy, dark road which on both sides is shadowed
thickly by pines more than 80-100 ft. high.

Our fellow-travellers were of the opinion that all
these hills and valleys would never be used for any-
thing, because they thought cultivation would be im-

FROM PHILADELPHIA 169

possible or certainly too troublesome. If there was
ore here, they said, there was wood enough for the
working of it ; for all this immeasurable quantity of
wood grows and rots at this time quite unused. Cer-
tainly, the numerous streams which traverse the region,
and in the spring and fall become greatly swelled, will
later, (particularly when the woods to the east have
been more ravaged), offer a profitable trade in timber
and masts — for these trees would make ship and other
timber. Many spots would then be available for as
fine plantations as are to be seen in any other mountain
country where men find an easy and rich support.
But the people here, already, are all the time dreaming
of mines and sudden wealth, and many of our Ger-
man countrymen still help to keep strange hopes alive.
The farmers about Heller's, mostly Germans, have
brought with them their stories of kobolds and mount-
ain sprites and treasures lit ; still hear the hill homun-
culus working and knocking, see the tell-tale flames,
but unluckily can never find the spot.

Without wasting time on the road, now near being
swamped and again almost breaking our necks, we
hastened forward as fast as our horses could go, and
all the more because we were threatened by storm
clouds. We stayed half an hour at Locust-hill and in
the evening half an hour at Bullock's-place, our
friends sharing with us their store of provisions with-
out which we and our horses should have had a hungry
day's journey, for besides grass and water there was
nothing to eat; we were pretty thoroughly wetted in
the swamp, and coming over the last hill were obliged
to stop in black darkness on account of a thunder-
storm ; reaching Wyoming after eight o'clock, tired,

170 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

wet, and hungry. This road was formerly nothing but
an Indian foot-path and was made as usable as it is
not until Sullivan's expedition which was sent out
from Wyoming against the Indians in 1779.

Wyoming, the settlement of this name, (the chief
place of which is really Wilksbury), lies in an ex-
traordinarily fertile valley west of the Blue Mountains

•• a>

and on the Eastern branch of the Susquehannah,
leisurely winding through. Some 20 years ago a few
New Englanders came hither, followed shortly after
by people from anywhere, so that in a brief space 90
families had come in who would or could not live else-
where. Fear of the law drove some of them and the
goodness of the land tempted others to settle in this
remote wilderness, cut off from the inhabited parts by
rugged and pathless mountains, but their numbers
rapidly increasing the country was soon changed to a
region of beautiful open fields. Then, the colony hav-
ing begun to take on importance disputes arose over
land-titles between the states of Connecticut and Pen-
sylvania. Connecticut claimed that this tract of land
was included in its charter, by the terms of which
(about the middle of the last century), the state was
granted a region bounded to the south by a line pro-
ceeding from the Atlantic ocean continually west to
the Pacific sea. At that time there was little known
of the geography of the interior, and some other
charters were given in England to the states of New
York, Jersey, and Pensylvania, by which was appor-
tioned a large part of the territory falling to Connecti-
cut, the boundary lines following given streams the
course of which was very uncertain as well. Connec-
ticut begins its old line at the Byram river, carries it

FROM PHILADELPHIA 171

through Phillips' Manor, across the Hudson, across the
Delaware at East-town, and in this way divides Jersey
and the Moravian establishments in Pensylvania into
two districts. By such claims as these a great part of
the state of Pensylvania was made disputable territory
and Connecticut asserted title to lands it had never
possessed. Connecticut admits that the debateable
tract in the state of New York was set off from itself
by grants to New York made later, but claims that it
does not therefore follow that its right has been with-
drawn to lands falling on its line beyond New York.
Thus it has happened that the first settlements in Wy-
oming were made by New England and these have
kept their hold there in matters of government. Pen-
sylvania, on the other hand, shows by its grant that
the Wyoming region, with other districts in dispute,
lies in the midst of its original territory as fixed by
England. These claims and assertions on the one side
and the other have been the cause of many difficulties.
Pensylvania as well as Connecticut sold and made
over lands there, so that of the land-owners of Wyom-
ing one held his land under the one state and another
under the other. With such dispositions, animosities
were inevitable, and thus even before the outbreak
of the Revolution there was a continual private war
between the Pensylvania and New England parties
in Wyoming. People fought over the right to the
land. If a Pensylvanian came with a deed to so much
land, he must first see if it was already taken up by a
New Englander. If so, he must attempt to gain pos-
session by force: failing, he reserved his right for the
time and chose an unsettled place in the neighborhood,
from which after a few years, and improvements be-

172 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

gun, he might very probably be dispossessed by an-
other New Englander coming with a Connecticut deed.
The New Englanders were always the strongest
party. + In the early seventies bloody rights took place
between the colonists, when several lives were lost.
However this was only private war and the war with
England coming on suppressed the quarrels beyond the
mountains, the matter at issue having not yet been de-
cided. But since the peace these dissensions have been
again renewed, and both states recently laid their
claims before the tribunal of the Congress. A commit-
tee decided for Pensylvania. The New England party
is altogether dissatisfied with this judgment, because in
this case they must lose their gains, Pensylvania hav-
ing long since granted to its own subjects much of the
land in dispute. To be sure, Pensylvania has offered
the New Englanders reimbursement in lands else-
where, but they prefer if they can to stay where they
are, and threaten to do so by force of their fists ; for
orders of the Congress are not regarded here if not
pleasing or unsupported by force. So far the outbreak
of further hostilities has been controlled by the little
garrison which the state of Pensylvania maintains here
against the Indians until a treaty with these nations
is drawn up.*

Wyoming, according to the New England claim,

* According to sundry items of a public nature, there have
been of late other bloody proceedings in Wyoming, and the
disquiets among the colonists of both states have only very
recently been brought to a peaceable conclusion — Extract from
a communication from Philadelphia, 1787. ' The tedious
" territorial quarrel between Pensylvania and Connecticut has
" at last been happily ended without bloodshed. The Connecti-

it
it

FROM PHILADELPHIA 173

lies in Westmoreland County; but in Pensylvania it
forms a part of Northumberland County. The colony
consists of Wilksbury, the chief place, and a few
smaller beginning villages, as Nanticook, Hannover,
Abraham's, Jacob's Plains, and Shavannah, in all of
which there are probably 400 families. Wilksbury had
a court-house once where the laws were administered
after the manner of Connecticut whence the Justices
were sent. But during the disturbances of the war
they lived some years in complete anarchy, without
law, magistrates, taxes, or priests. ! We act on our
sense of honor, and depend pretty much on that,
said the miller of the place ; nothing can be gained
' by law and nobody punished, — our only rule is trust
' or distrust." Since a garrison was placed here, how-
ever, the commanding officer has at the same time
acted as Justice, without any recourse to military law.
The inhabitants hear his opinion and adjust their deal-
ings thereby, if that seems good to them. But the
people of Wyoming, with all their freedom and living
on the most productive lands, are pauper-poor. The
war was something of a back-set, but their sloth still
more. They live in miserable block-houses, are badly
clothed, farm carelessly, and love easeful days. Last
winter most of them sent all their corn and wheat over
the mountains, turned it into cyder and brandy, (for
they have not yet planted orchards themselves), so as

" cut party has peaceably submitted to the government of Pen-
" slyvania. This happy outcome is an effect of the magnanimity
" with which the government of Pensylvania has forgiven and
" forgotten past injuries and deeds of violence, by an especial
" mildness suddenly converting old enemies to friends and
" brothers."

174 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

to drink and dance away the tedium. And so in the
spring they had neither seed-corn nor bread ; lived
meanwhile on milk and blackberries, or by hunting,
(and many of them on less), in expectation of the
harvest which has turned out well, and now they are
preparing for fresh quickenings. With all their negli-
gence, they had before the war fine store of cattle,
hogs, hemp, flax &c., of which the superfluity sold
brought them what they needed. Of their mills one
was burnt by the Indians, and there was no water for
the other ; they must therefore send their corn 50 miles
over the mountains, or whoever could not do this was
obliged to pound it in wooden troughs after the fashion
of the Indians. Of what faith they are, no man
knows. An old Anabaptist lives among them and
preaches to whomsoever has a mind to hear. We came
a day too late to see the solemn baptism of a young
girl 20 years old, who was baptized in the Susque-
hannah.

The especial fertility of this splendid valley is owing
chiefly to a thick clay-bed which lies just beneath the
fat and strong black mould. They dig through 2-4-8
inches of good garden earth, then 4-5 ft. of rich white
clay, then several feet of rough sand, and below a bed
of sand holding large smooth pebbles. At this depth of
12-14 ft. they find their wells of water, having struck
no hard rock. There are places where the soil is
greatly richer. The Shavannah bottoms, four miles
down the river on the west side, are 14-15 ft. deep in
mould, with little clay or sand intermixed. This spot
of perhaps 1000 acres of the choicest, inexhaustible
land is like a garden. But this fatness of the soil gives
the water an unpleasant taste.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 175

The mountains which border the Wyoming Valley
are not without traces of ore and fossils. The high
steep water-side a mile above Wyoming contains, be-
neath the surface covering of sand and clay, a heavy
bed of coarse slate which becomes finer on going down.
Along the open wall of the mill-race there, many traces
of ferns and perhaps other plants can be seen im-
pressed on the slate fragments. But after hours of
search in the exposed and mostly half-weathered
strata, I could find no fair specimen of any size ; the
incomplete specimens which I took back with me to
Philadelphia were the first of the sort which they had
seen there. Going down, the slate gradually changes to
a bed (not deep) of fine, light, lustrous coal which
rubbed leaves no smut on the hand and burns without
any bad smell. This coal is to be had for the taking,
and a smith who has set up his shop hard by praises it
much. Although this coal is good, that found on the
western branch of the Susquehannah and on the Ohio
is regarded as better still. Beneath the coal is a red
splintery sand-stone with much mica ; then, a course of
rough slate ; and next the water-line a reddish white
sand-stone occurs again in layers. The transition from
slate, (with plant-impressions), to coal explains the
origin of the coal, and is warrant for an antiquity of
this part of the world greater than that assigned it by
certain investigators. The same alternation of slate
and coal is observed at other places in this valley, on
both sides the river, and one cannot but suppose that at
some time the whole valley was filled with piled layers
of plant-earth, from which slate and coal developed,
and afterwards the river cut through.

Higher up the river the banks consist solely of a

176 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

laminated sand-stone, with mica in varying quantities,
and the layers of divers degrees of hardness. At one
place in this region, near the river, there comes to the
surface a vein of ore thick as a man's leg, blackish,
and micaceous, which from its look might be lead-
ore.* For a long time this was thought to be silver,
until experiments were made at Philadelphia showing
that there was no ground for the belief but not deter-
mining what the ore was. Beyond the river there are
said to be ores at one or two places which have been
found on experiment really to contain silver. These
spots, I am told, were once pointed out to certain per-
sons by the Indians, and are at present known to a few
who speak of them mysteriously. It appears also that
a long time ago Europeans may have worked there ;
at least, the first New Englanders who came hither
said that they found remains there of horse-trappings
and smelting tools.

On the rocky banks of the west side, and at other
places there is seen after dry weather a deposit of
natural copperas and alum, both of which are often
collected in pounds by the country-people. According
to accounts they use this copperas for dyeing, and in
the following strange way : For each pound of the yarn
to be dyed, a pound of the purest copperas is taken.
The yarn is dipped first in a clear, warm lye, and then
into the copperas solution, the dippings repeated 6-8
times ; but each time the yarn should be a little while
hung up to air ; in this way, it is said, a deep straw
color is given the yarn. — I saw nothing of this cop-

* I had specimens of this and other minerals and rocks of
the region, but lost them.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 177

peras. But several miles down the river I had myself
taken to a place where an outcrop of saltpetre is
scraped from the cliffs, which with the addition of lye
is made into good saltpetre. At the beginning of the
war many hundred-weight of saltpetre was prepared
here and farther up the river. I shall have further
opportunity to mention the natural saltpetre of
America.

At Jacob's Plains, a few miles from Wyoming, there
is a spring on which floats a fat, viscous scum deposit-
ing a yellow sediment. The water is said to have an
unpleasant bitter taste ; probably contains petroleum ;
the neighborhood of the coal-beds makes it likely.

Down the river towards Sunbury cubical lead ore
has been found ; and on the western branch of the
Susquehannah lead occurs in still greater quantity, as
also alum and marcasite.

Taking a turn to Nanticook we passed by the ruins
of a beginning iron-foundry. Much swamp-ore is
found thereabouts, which is probably what was used ;
besides, there is iron-stone in the neighboring mount-
ain. The reopening of this works will mean a con-
siderable gain to the region, since the distance and the
bad roads over which the iron needed must be fetched
vastly heightens the cost to the farmer. One obstacle
in the way of further attempts at getting out ore in
this region was the territorial quarrels ; hence anybody
who thinks he knows where there is a good spot is very
mysterious about it. About Wyoming there has been
discovered so far no lime or marble, but 15-20 miles
down the river, especially about Sunbury, several hills
are said to show lime and marble ; and likewise higher
up the river.
12

178 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

On the west side of the Susquehannah several
mountain-ridges, belonging to the principal chain, are
little known because only hunters and Indians go
through them. The first of these ridges (bordering
this valley) is remarkable for its singular slope, which
gives a dented appearance to the whole. Whatever
the thrust of the mountains, it is invariably the case
that their southern slope, reckoned from the highest
line, falls away more precipitously ; the northern slope
is longer and gentler.

The Susquehannah on its way to the sea has to pass
more than one line of rocks and as often makes what
are called falls. Not far above this place is the so-
called Upper Fall where there is heard merely the
rushing of the water between rocks that hardly show
above the surface. Several miles below Wyoming
there is a more considerable fall. But the stream finds
its greatest impediment farther down towards the
Chesapeak Bay at several places not impassable for
boats but extremely difficult. The stream has been
proved to be navigable down by a few bravos who
made the voyage in two boats from here to Baltimore
and back. This was only out of vanity, for the diffi-
culties and dangers have kept them and others from
any further attempt. But if in future the passage can
be made easier by blowing up the rocks, this region
will be the gainer in the more convenient sale of its
produce. From here up the river there are few ob-
stacles or none. Single batteaux have already as-
cended from Wyoming 360 miles to the small lakes
west of Albany where the Susquehannah rises, and so
have come within 18 miles of the Mohawk river
which flows into the Hudson.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 179

At the beginning of the war a stockade was built
against the roving Indians and later a little fort, in
Wyoming on the river. Thence went out that great
expedition against the Indians which was undertaken
by the Americans in the autumn of 1779. The inac-
tivity at that time of the English army in New York
gave the Americans all the more leisure to carry
through a work of vengeance upon the Indians for the
many grewsome and inhuman acts they had long been
committing in the frontier regions. A small corps,
with artillery, was chosen for the purpose, under the
lead of General Sullivan assisted bv several other well-

mt

known officers, among whom was General Irwin. At
the same time other smaller corps proceeded from
Pittsburg and Albany, to support the main body and
also to divert the attention of the enemy. The real
objective was the famous five or six nations (as they
are diversly called) who in the remotest wilds of
America exhibit a sort of republican union. The Five
Nations inhabit a wide region at the back of the North-
ern and middle colonies, among the great Canadian
lakes, rivers, and impenetrable woods. They have
been long known for their courage and for the espe-
cial fidelity with which they have supported the Eng-
lish crown against the French and even against their
own people. At the beginning of the war they had an
agreement with the Americans to observe a strict neu-
trality during the contest between the colonies and the
mother-country. It is pretended on the side of the
Americans that these nations offered at that time to
wield the war-axe against the English, which pro-
posal was rejected, with the well-known American
large-mindedness and humanity, and merely neutrality

180 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

was stipulated. Presumably, the Americans did not
seal the bargain with largess. So it came about that
the preponderant English generosity, and the influ-
ence which Sir William Johnson and several others
had over these Indians, brought them easily to the
point of letting go their peaceful sentiments and prom-
ises and indulging their inborn and quickly aroused
propensities to war and ferocity. They were soon tak-
ing a most active part in a very bloody war, and they
brought desolation to all the frontier settlements (those
on the western side of the mountains) of the United
States. The Oneida Indians, it is said, were the only
nation which remained true to their promise of neu-
trality, or at least no hostilities against the Americans
were laid to their charge. Therefore these were to be
excepted from the universal destruction which had
been determined on for the others. For nothing less
than an entire extirpation and rooting-out of those
nations was the proud purpose of this expedition, so
far indeed as this might be possible against an enemy
who rarely lets itself be found or placed, and is tempted
to show itself only by the appearance of an especial
advantage. There was the conviction beforehand that
these Indians must be forced quite to relinquish their
haunts if the numerous but helpless settlers of the
frontier were to be given any hope of lasting peace and
security.

The troops composing General Sullivan's command
assembled in Wyoming. Already they had had to
make their way through the wilderness so far, bring-
ing hither the necessary provisions and military sup-
plies which were to be sent on up the river in boats,
and as opportunity presented were to follow the troops

FROM PHILADELPHIA 181

by pack-horse. In order to bring up these stores the
Congress had summoned all its strength and had been
at great expense. The Indians, who were thoroughly
informed of these fear-striking preparations, assembled
numerously and in good heart on the borders of their
country. They had as leaders Butler, Brant, and Guy
Johnson, and all their related and united tribes were
further strengthened by several hundred Refugees, or
Tories as the Americans called them. They took posi-
tion advantageously in a pass, in the woods between
Chemung and Newtown, not far from the Teaoga
river ; here they threw up a breast-work, or rather
abattis, more than half a mile long. Posted thus, Sulli-
van attacked them in August 1779, and they defended
themselves so obstinately and stoutly that only after a
warm fight of two hours could Sullivan bring them to
yield, and then not without the very active support of
his rude artillery. He boasted, however, of his com-
plete and stupefying victory over the allied Indians,
so much so that during the subsequent devastation of
their country they would not let themselves be drawn
into a second stand-up fight. This battle merely
opened the way for the beginning of Sullivan's real
enterprise, and there remained a number of other dif-
ficulties to be overcome which offered the greatest
obstacles to the undertaking. If any impression was
to be made it was necessary that this corps should stay
at least a month in the field, in an entirely unfamiliar
country moreover, where nothing was to be hoped for
in the item of any of the necessary supplies. But not-
withstanding all the care taken, on account of the dis-
tance, the bad roads, and other circumstances, Sullivan
found it possible to secure provisions requisite for

182 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

hardly the half of a month ; and had there been the
desired amount on hands there was a lack of pack-
horses to get it forward,* although in order to have
less to carry, the cattle intended for meat-rations was
driven along with the army, for of salted meat they
had none. The burning desire of the troops to be
avenged on the Indians, the enthusiasm of the officers,
and an animating speech of the General removed all
obstacles ; the proposal to diminish the daily rations
was universally approved, and without protest the
ration was fixed at half a pound of meal and half a
pound of fresh meat.

I should not have given so much space to this expe-
dition had it not been a doubly remarkable one, on
account of the fact that on this occasion there was dis-
covered among these nations more of a polity and a
higher degree of civilization than even those had
guessed who had long lived in their neighborhood, in-
deed had lived almost among them. Sullivan found
with astonishment that no guides familiar with the
country were to be had, and there was no way for
him to find out where the Indian villages were except
by following up their tracks as if they had been wild
beasts. But since it is their custom to march one be-
hind the other, the last always covering with leaves
his own track and his companions', it is a difficult
business to trace them, requiring much practice, much
patience, and a sharp eye.

By Sullivan's account (which I have made use of)
the degree of civilization remarked in these Indian vil-

* However the statement was that some 1200 horses were
either worn out on this expedition or lost in the woods.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 183

lages was superior to anything which could have been
expected from former observations or from the general
opinion regarding the morals and way of life of these
nations. The beautiful situation of their villages, often
plainly the result of choice ; the size, construction, and
arrangement of their dwellings, these were the things
first to strike the beholder in this new and unknown
country. Sullivan reported, (and I had later General
Irwin's personal confirmation), that their wigwams or
houses were not only spacious but even cleanly, and
he several times mentions that they were regularly
framed. The size of their corn-fields excited astonish-
ment no less than the industry with which they were
cultivated. As to both facts an indication is to be had
from the statement that the troops destroyed corn in
the field to the amount of 160,000 bushels. Still more
striking was the number of fruit-trees found and de-
stroyed, and also the size and apparent age of several
of their orchards. Sullivan mentions that at one place
they cut down 1500 fruit-trees, many of which seemed
to be very old. To be sure, he does not say of what
varieties these were ; the greatest part of them were
very likely the above-mentioned Indian Plum-trees.

Such circumstances are proof that these nations have
long practiced agriculture, and are not to be charged
with an incapacity of providing for the future or with
an absolute carelessness of their posterity. No doubt
the case with man in his uncivilized state is the same
as that observed among beavers and other animals,
that is to say, they become more careless, wilder, and
less regardful of the future when they find their works
disturbed by the approach of man and their peace and
quiet interrupted. It is well known that the natives of

184 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

America have quite forgotten most of the devices and
arts of their ancestors in the fabrication of utensils,
now that the coming of the Europeans has supplied
their needs and spared them the trouble of manu-
facture.

This business of devastation was concluded within
the time fixed, and really there was not an hour to lose.
Forty Indian villages were burnt, among which Chi-
nesee was the largest, numbering 128 houses. From
Sullivan's report, as well as from oral accounts, it ap-
pears that this region, until then unknown and un-
visited, was beheld with no indifferent eyes ; descrip-
tions show it to be an especially beautiful and fertile
country. Several days' march from Wyoming, north-
west, the troops found themselves in a fine, level
country extending as far as the Canadian lakes and
covered with an excellent grass extraordinarily tall.

But the expedition, extremely tedious, costly, and
bloody as it was had not the desired effect, had none
except that of destruction carried almost too far. The
Indians fled everywhere before their pursuers, offer-
ing no resistance after the first battle, but they fol-
lowed on the track of the enemy and all stragglers, sick
and wounded, or those cut off in any way from the
corps became their victims.

When one hears of the trouble the Indians have
made for the settlers in this frontier region, the back-
woodsmen must be in a measure pardoned if they
speak of these nations in the bitterest way, swear eternal
enmity against them, and are dissatisfied that the Con-
gress should be making preparations to conclude a
peace with them ; for they are at this time kept from
further hostilities only by the peace negotiated between

FROM PHILADELPHIA 185

t

England and the United States. But although the
usual peace-ceremonies have not yet been observed
between the American states and the several Indian
nations, many people have ventured up the Susque-
hannah, exposing themselves to the danger of falling
in with Indians still perhaps in a vexed state of mind.
I have, however, heard of no instance in which the
Indians have misused the good faith reposed in them
or have broken the peace of the English, their allies.
The journeys to their country were undertaken by
people searching for new lands and what was found
suitable they wished in part to measure off. Several
land-surveyors were already come here with com-
missions. In America speculations in land form the
trade of a certain class of people, who either singly
or in companies take up great tracts of land from the
Indians, disposing of them later at a great profit. To
that end, skilled judges of lands are sent out in ad-
vance so as to pick out the best spots which are then
bargained for. In one way and another the Indians
are often scandalously overreached.

We collected in this region several varieties of
mature seeds ; but I must confess that considering the
place and the season we found little that was new.
Rattlesnake-root (Poly gala Senega) grows here in
quantity; also Chenopodium anthelminthicum; and
Cleome dodecandra, which is praised as a vermifuge.
A new species of the Parnassia, which I discovered
about New York, grows here plentifully in swampy
meadows. Among trees there was conspicuous a
group of beautiful larches, called Tamarac ; they use
here a drink made from the bark, for swollen feet after
fevers.

186 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

After a stay of five days, delayed by the weather,
we left this country the i8th of August in the after-
noon, and made seven miles to Long Meadow where
we spent the night in a half-ruined cabin and on the
bare earth. We found a small boy there, whose par-
ents were intending to settle here, but they had been
several days absent looking for provisions and had
quite carelessly left the youngster by himself in the
woods. He was extremely happy when we gave him
some bread and meat.

Very early we left our dreary quarters but were sev-
eral hours delayed when we came to Bear Creek.
Since our passage that way a family had appeared,
even here, and within the few days had made their
block-house nearly ready. Of the logs meant for that
purpose one had fallen across the narrow road, and it
was in no way possible to get our horses through the
very thick and swampy bush at either side ; we had
therefore to wait patiently until the log was sawed
through and got out of the way. Farther on, in that
half of the road lying through this wilderness, we hap-
pened on still a third family which likewise had just
come to settle there. These people expect to make a
temporary support by selling brandy to travellers, until
they have gradually brought enough land into cultiva-
tion to supply their needs. This will indeed require
some time, but meanwhile through them a beginning is
made of the future settlement of this waste. All these
poor families chose the region because here they can
at no outlay have the use of land taken up by nobody
else, until some one acquires it by purchase and obliges
them to leave, in which case however they have the
right of pre-emption. Going back we followed the

FROM PHILADELPHIA 187

road we had come as the only, passable one through
this comfortless region, and about sunset reached
White-oak Run. The last eight miles we had to go
a-foot, for there was now thick darkness among the
high, close-standing trees, obscuring the friendly light
of the moon which shone clear, but not for us, and it
would have been neck-breaking work to keep on horse-
back. We could find our way only by knocking from
time to time into the trees and stumps on both sides,
and thus being put back into the narrow path. The
dull light from the many rotting trunks was pleasant
to be sure but of no use. Finally we had 2 or 3 times
to wade through the circuitous Pokonoke Creek, and
at nine o'clock arrived at Sebitz's house, tired and
wet. It is indeed thoroughly tiresome to drag along
throughout a whole day in such a wilderness where,
besides the plants growing just by the way there is
very little to entertain. The restricted outlook is al-
ways the same ; after the highest summits of the
mountains are past, there is nothing more to delight
the eye except, in the deepest valleys, the environment
of trees. On this return journey I counted ten differ-
ent ranges of hills and mountains which have to be
crossed between Wyoming and Sebitz's.*

These particularly distinct chains of mountains and
hills are all parallel and extend northeast to southwest.
Their divisions are reckoned merely by the larger
brooks and streams running through them ; for all
together they may be aptly regarded as one mountain,
of which the several ridges are set apart by these

* Vid. Beytrage zur mineralogischen Kcnntniss des ostlichen
Theils von Nordamerika, p. 118 &c.

188 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

streams. Such streams taking their rise on one or the
other side of a range, the number of them must in
some measure modify the plan of the whole, although
the breadth of the entire range is not affected. What
is called the Great Swamp of the region is in itself an
extensive and high-lying tract observable especially
from the last long slope. One has no opportunity to
examine the different rocks except in so far as these
appear along the road, only six feet wide ; everything
else being covered with stumps, roots, trees, leaves,
grass, and swamp. What most commonly appears at
the surface is the often mentioned laminated sandstone,
which is everywhere of a very fine grain but pretty
hard ; the eye seldom discovers micaceous constituents ;
the smell shows the clay content. The color is of many
sorts : white, grey, blueish, reddish, reddish-brown
&c. Each particular fragment, solid as it may appear
at the first glance, is made up of divers and diversly
thick plates, close bound together ; such is the appear-
ance on breaking. All these hills are superficially
overlaid with this sort of stone. Not only along the
roads, but in the few open and level spots there are
seen millions of fragments or scales of this stone ; it
is rarely found at the surface in a dense stratified for-
mation. What was the cause of this general shatter-
ing of the uppermost layers ? Frost and weather may
have done somewhat ; but the explanation of the people
hereabouts is not entirely from the purpose. They
liken this burst upper shell of the mountains to the
bark of a tree split by its growth, and a few form the
erroneous conclusion that their mountains grow. — But
that by some ancient convulsion of these mountains
their shell may have been so cracked to fragments,
this may be indeed supposed.

FROM PHILADELPHIA 189

The deeper, less shaken, and older bed of this range
appears to be of the unpolished, quartz-grained stone
elsewhere mentioned. For this is seen on the east side
of the mountains, at Easton, and to the west in the
hills towards Wyoming; is therefore probably the un-
derlying bed, and is throughout overlaid with the
laminated sand-stone, which quite as probably is to be
regarded as a deposit from water standing above these
mountains. Not here indeed, but later, and on the
continuation of this range, I have found in similar
sand-stone impressions of muscles and animalcules of
the sea. But it is surprising to find in this part of the
range no appearance of limestone. On the road fol-
lowed by us today I saw none, and I could on inquiry
hear of none. The greatest part of this road, the land
seemed too stony or too poor to be used for cultiva-
tion ; but in the Swamp especially and in most of the
lower spots, there are tracts affording deep layers of
the finest black earth. In such places are to be found
many beautiful plants and shrubs, but to be come at
only with the greatest difficulty. Here the American
botanist has much in reserve for him, and it is to be
hoped that his zeal will soon be aroused.

From Sebitz's to Heller's the road is for the most
part down-grade, through a multitude of sand-stones.
The Pokonoke Creek is again crossed several times ; it
winds through very pleasing low-grounds. In the
mountains as well as here it is plainly to be seen that
most of the higher trees, especially those standing
apart, lean sharply from northwest to southeast,
the course, that is, of the strongest and most frequent
winds. Near Brinker's Mill there is a rarity — a beau-
tiful prospect, of the Delaware Gap to the left and in

IPO TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

front, (over a lower ridge of hills), the range of the
Blue or Kittatiny Mountain running straight away.
The smaller hills in the foreground are adorned now
with a beautiful green covering, and at a distance give
the look of a fertile landscape, but it is only a green of
leaf-bearing trees or of plants growing in their shade.
For where the bush is taken off, the soil is burnt up
by the sun and the air, and all the meadow and pasture
land looks brown and yellow.

Some iron-stone appears in the hills between Sebitz's
and the Mill, and traces of copper have been dis-
covered. Quite at the top of a hill, between the Mill
and Eckhardt's we came upon a little lake, in which
there should be fish. There is also such a clear little
separate lake to be found on a higher hill near Sebitz's,
and another on Locust-hill.

In order to rest our horses and to pack the plants,
seeds, and stones we had collected on the road to Wy-
oming and thereabouts, we were obliged to spend a
warm day at Heller's ; in the cool of the evening we
returned to Nazareth. Just out of Nazareth there
stands a roomy stone house, with a few outbuildings,
which is at present called Old Nazareth. The famous
Methodist preacher, Whitfield, who with such an ad-
venturous zeal preached through all the American
provinces, and either established or sketched several
praiseworthy institutions, built this house, intending
it as a school-house for Indian youth. The Moravian
Brethren afterwards came into possession of it. There
is nothing remarkable about the house ; but the report
that the steps before the entrance were of alabaster in-
duced me to visit it, since I had as yet heard nothing
of alabaster in this part of America. The stone is

FROM PHILADELPHIA 191

largely white, showing broad flecks reddish and yel-
lowish, and scraped comes off very white. Wanting
a mineral acid I could not determine whether it was
really alabaster ; I could not knock off a specimen and
take it away with me. It was not exactly known
whence these steps had been brought ; it was believed
they came from near Easton, 6-8 miles from Bethle-
hem, where it was known that several sorts of marble
occur, but as yet no alabaster has been found there
within the memory of the inhabitants. From Naza-
reth we saw at the distance of a mile the beautiful
farm, Christiansbrunn, belonging to the Brethren,
which lies in a pleasant and fertile spot. The farm
contains about 500 acres of land, of which only 100 is
good clean meadow. Some 300 head of black cattle
are kept there ; several yoke of draught oxen which
they showed us exceeded in size and beauty all others
I have observed in America. All the buildings and
arrangements here have the conspicuously pleasing
neatness, decency, and carefully ordered plan which
are nowhere missed in the settlements of this Society.
There is a water-wheel mill there of the over-thrust
description, a sort rare in America. The water is con-
ducted in underground pipes, and has sufficient fall
to ascend 20 ft. and turn the wheels. There is also a
large brewery, and a large dairy where much butter and
good cheese are made. Of craftsmen there is none
here except a gun-smith, an indispensable man among
the mountain poachers. The place takes its name from
an excellent spring in a beautiful stone casing, whence
the region for 5-6 miles around is supplied with water.

jfrom jQa^aretl), bp Reatung anD Leba-
non, to Carlisle

From Christiansbrunn to Allen-town, n miles, we
passed over a new road, for the most part through
woods ; we saw only a few insignificant houses. The
dead trees still standing numerously in the corn fields
was proof besides that these were new settlements
mostly. It would be impossible for the new settler to
bring a piece of woods-land thoroughly into cultivation
the first year, felling all the trees, getting them out of
the way, and rooting up the stumps. And so at the first
they have to be content with ' girdling.' This opera-
tion consists in cutting a ring out of the bark, in the
lower part of the tree, one or two spans wide. In this
way the sap taken up through the roots is checked in
its ascent through the veins found particularly in the
bark, and the upper part of the tree gradually dies.
Death follows quickest with the pine ; leaf-trees appear
to be somewhat more tenacious of life. We observed,
in these and other fields, oaks girdled last year and a
few as much as two years ago which notwithstanding
have put out new leaves this year, although few and
small.*

* Therefore it must be that the veins carrying up the sap lie
not only in the bark but in the outer spongy wood-rings as
well — or, the suction-veins in the bark may for a certain time
supply nourishment to the upper parts of the tree — or the little
sap still remaining in the sap-tubes after girdling may be
expended entirely in forcing the leaves — I saw on Long Island

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 193

The Blue Mountains were now to our right. Nearer
towards Allen-town, Leheigh Gap appeared in the
distant view, and a mile from it we passed the river at
a ford. The land of this region seemed to be of mid-
dling strength and less stony ; we noticed sand-stone
scattered about here and there, but everywhere lime-
stone jutted from the soil, for the most part a reddish
sandy-clay. — The landscape, of low hills following the
river, offered a pleasant change to the eye, weary of
monotonous and gloomy woods. But not so the in-
habitants of the region ; all who met us looked so de-
fiant and independent that it was easily seen they were
not of the Moravian Brethren whose softer and more
pleasing manners were still fresh in our remembrance.

Allen-town, of which the official name is North-
ampton, numbers 40-50 houses ; the first name was
that of a fort which in the war before the last stood
several miles away towards the mountains, as defence
against the Indians, called Fort Allen and now in
ruins.

The road from here to Reading leads over the ridges
of connected hills which are counted a part of the
afore-mentioned Dry Land. Perhaps three miles from
Allen-town is the famous curiosity of the region, the

a sour gum cut down the fall before, putting out leaves and
blooms in the spring. Single branches of certain trees may
continue alive regardless of the fact that rings have been cut
in them down to the wood, and the connection thus broken
between the veins taking up the sap through the bark; of this
I saw a remarkable instance in a pear-tree at Hampton Court
in England — one branch had been widely girdled for many
years and nevertheless bore more heavily than any of the
others.

13

194 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

so-called ' Big Spring,' which breaks out of the earth
in a vein large as a man's leg and within the first
hundred rods of its course sets three mills going. It
appears that in this hilly and dry country the water is
assembled at only a few places, gushing out thence in
greater volume and force. This range of hills is too
low to furnish such supplies of water, but running as
they do with the Blue Mountains it may be supposed
that the few (and therefore more considerable) springs
of the Dry Land come from the mountains, and are
here raised through subterranean canals, as by an el-
bowed pipe.

Ten miles from Allen-town is Maguntchy, a village
of few houses ; its name is Indian. Not far off is
Cedar Creek which also rises in a very large spring.
The Leheigh hills are now to the left and pretty near ;
they appear to make a continuous parallel course with
the Blue Mountains, which are constantly in sight at
a distance of 8-10-12 miles running uniformly; where-
as the summits of the Leheigh hills are more cut into
and of a wave formation. The land hereabouts is
fairly good ; fields and meadows of a fertile appear-
ance, the latter conspicuously green at this time. The
farm management seems pretty orderly. One gets a
glimpse of many good stone houses, many of them
very neat, and everything about the premises shows
order and attention. The people are mainly Germans,
who speak bad English and distressing German. The
buck-wheat, greatly seeded here after wheat for the
second harvest, stood in full bloom and with the penny-
royal (Cunila pulegioides) , so common on all the
roads, made a strong and pleasant evening odor.

America is indeed the land of the oak. All the

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 195

forests are largely oak,* but the trees are nowhere
either large or strong. What we have seen yesterday
and today would be counted young wood, but this is
hardly probable, because we observed no old stumps.
Besides, the thin trunks do not stand very close to-
gether ; the dry soil of these hills does not give any
superfluous nourishment. And this was confirmed by
the accounts of the inhabitants who say they rarely
find an oak more than six inches through. Hence they
are obliged to fetch their fence-rails 4-6 miles, split
chesnut-rails being used for this purpose, the oak rot-
ting faster, especially if the bark is left on.

After sunset we came to Kutz-town (19 miles from
Allen-town and 31 from Nazareth). A well to-do
German, in order to cut something of a figure with his
name in his ears, gave the land for this place, which
is only some three years old, and the houses but few
and not large.

From Kutz-town to Reading, 19 miles, through a
similar landscape, over limestone hills. — Nearer the
town the land grows better and is better farmed ; and
the houses are more numerous and finer. We did not
cross a brook until six miles from Reading ; on the
road there appeared many kinds of soft clayey-slate,
grey, white, reddish ; at times we saw the red earth, •
but the common surface covering continued the red-
dish-loam.

Along all these limestone hills, and only on them, are

* The soil of these forests is not a very good grass-soil and
furnishes but meagre pasturage for cattle. It was long ago
remarked that the European oak was a hindrance to the
growth of grass and other plants within its influence. Is this
true here also?

196 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

to be found numerous black horn-stones often in large
fragments. Hence where these stones occur else-
where, it may be guessed with considerable certainty
that there is limestone soil near by. The limestone of
this region is also frequently covered with sand-stone.

At the first glance, on account of its especial dryness
the soil on these hills seems not to be very fertile. Be-
sides, it promises little by reason of the common goose-
grass (Verbascum Thapsus) which so often takes pos-
session, and other plants fond of dry and poor soils.
But this land is praised as very good wheat-land. The
wheat sown in the fall grows through the temperate
and commonly moist spring until by June, when the
greatest heats begin, it has reached so much of its
growth as rather to be helped than hurt by the summer
heats ; whereas later field crops, such as maize, buck-
wheat, turnips &c depend more on seasonable rains and
therefore oftener fail. The lighter soil of this region
is moreover not disagreeable to the farmer because it
requires no great labor in the working. They flatter
themselves here that they can increase the fertility of
the soil by lime and plaister,* but this method is by no
means adapted for this soil.

From the last hill, a mile from Reading, there is an
agreeable prospect over sundry ranges of larger and
smaller hills that with apparent regularity rise one be-
hind the other. The Blue Mountains are hardly to be

* About Philadelphia and Germantown, Whitemarsh, Lan-
caster, and York the use of plaister for grass and plow-land
has recently become a favorite practice, because there is less
trouble involved than in the collecting, lading, hauling, and
spreading of the common dung of cattle — trouble which the
farmer here does not willingly submit to.

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 197

discovered in the back-ground. To the left are the
Oley hills, a continuation of the Leheigh hills. In the
fore-ground, on the lowest of all the hills, by the
Schuylkill river, one is pleased to find a neat town,
(and not a small one), where only 36 years ago there
was mere wilderness — for older Reading is not. The
town has four principal streets which stand exactly
with the compass-points, and where these cross is a
fine Court-house. The inhabitants are chieflv Ger-

J

mans, almost all of them in good circumstances. And
the farmers living around are all well clad and well
fed, few of them owning less than 200 acres of land.

Mr. Daniel Udree's iron-works lie 10 miles from
Reading, in a narrow valley among the Oley hills.
The mine which supplies the ore is five miles beyond,
and has a depth of not more than 6-7 fathom. Re-
cently ore has been discovered still nearer, which in
several respects is better than the first, and in future
this will be used in mixture ; hitherto they have not
known how to apply the advantage to be gained from a
mixture of several ores. Nearly at the top of the hill
and immediately behind the high-furnace, a mine was
formerly worked which is rich in the best and most
compact ore. The rock of this hill is a coarse-grained
wacke, lying in thick beds running almost north and
south. The ore is found at a depth of only 12-20 ft.
below the surface mould and in places along the hill
even shallower. A gallery-stoll had been driven in the
hill, some 12 ft. high, 15 ft. broad, and about 300 ft.
long, and then a 60 ft. shaft was sunk, and a beautiful,
compact, quartz-ore, shimmering green and blue, was
taken out which was the richest and most easilv fluxed

j

of any ore in that whole region. But water broke in

198 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

strongly and drowned out the work. And besides, the
ore having to be blasted, at the beginning of the war
powder was too dear and work-people scarce ; and so
they were compelled to give over this mine, but will
now take it up again.

A reddish fine-grained sand-stone which stands the
fire excellently is brought to the high-furnace from
beyond the Schuylkill, and is called merely Schuylkill
stone. Formerly they tried at a loss the wacke found
on the nearest hills ; this split and burst in the fire.
The cost of setting up the interior of the furnace, in-
cluding the expence of breaking and hauling the stone,
amounts always to about 100 Pd. Pensylv. Current ;
but the furnace often bears two smeltings. Some
10,000 acres of forest are attached to this high-furnace.
The oaks on these dry hills are small, to be sure, but
there are among them many chesnuts which make the
best coals. The furnace consumes 840 bushels of coals
in 24 hours, for which 21-22 cords of wood are neces-
sary. It is estimated that 400 bushels of coals are used
in getting out one ton of bar-iron. A turn of coals,
about 100 bushels, costs about 20 shillings, Pensylv.
Current. (The guinea at 35 shillings.) Wages for
wood-cutting are two shillings three pence the cord.
A man chops two and a half to four cords a day, and
so can earn 6-g shillings. At present only six men
work at the mine ; but they supply more than the
furnace can consume. If the work was uninterrupted
there could be turned out yearly between 2-300 tons
of iron. A hundredweight of the ore worked at this
time yields 75 pounds of cold iron. A miner receives
40 shillings a month and rations. The furnace men,
founders and hammer men, are paid by the ton. For a

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 199

ton of pig — 5 shillings ; for a ton of furnace iron or
other ware — 40 shillings. In this way, if much is
worked, the first founder stands to receive several
pounds in the week.

Nowhere among the sundry mines and forges of
America had wages become fixed as yet, the custom
being to treat with each man conformably and accord-
ing to his abilities. Miners by profession worked com-
monly by the fathom ; in Jersey they asked 5-6 pounds
current a month, with lights and tools. Common
laborers there received always 2-3 pounds a month.
But then they asked more during hay-making and
harvest, when with lighter work they could easily earn
for some weeks together 16-20 shillings a day. Coalers
and founders were likewise well paid in Jersey. A
foreman or head-founder 9 pounds a month ; a coaler
5-6 pounds. Hammer men were paid in Jersey by the
ton also.

The price of a ton of pig-iron (which on account of
the easier transport is cheaper in America) is 10
pounds current. A ton of furnace iron, kettles or other
utensils, 2025 pounds. Bar-iron, in the good times
before the war, cost the iron-masters 22-23 pounds a
ton ; they sold it at 25 pounds cash money or 30 pounds
at six months credit. But at present they cannot de-
liver a ton for less than 32-37 pounds.

If the furnace is not properly managed the slag is
pale green and coarse, but otherwise a fine sky-blue.
There lay at the furnace more than 200 tons of such
slag, which Mr. Udree had turned over to a man who
was to give him 15 tons of iron for the privilege of
breaking it up, washing it, and getting it worked over
at a bloomery ; his estimate is that it will take him two
years to clear out this slag.

200 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Mahogany wood is used for mould- forms at fur-
naces, because it is the least subject to warping and
splitting.

Formerly Mr. Udree dealt with his workmen as is
customary in Germany ; that is, he furnished them with
all necessaries on account. They made use of the op-
portunity to run up their accounts, and not being
trammeled with families got out of the way ; and so
he changed his method.

America throughout its mountainous parts is richly
supplied with iron, and the ore besides is easily to be
got out; but with all that, (and the superfluity of wood
notwithstanding), the high price of labor at present
makes it possible to bring iron from Europe cheaper
than it can be furnished by the high-furnaces and
forges in America. The owners of iron-works in sev-
eral provinces, in Jersey and Pensylvania particularly,
attempted without result to bring their governments
to forbid the import of foreign iron or by high duties
to make it difficult. But this proposal being against
the immediate interests of the Assembly-men as well
as of their constituencies it was hardly to be expected
that they should agree to raise the price of their do-
mestic iron and iron-ware. Therefore several of the
richer furnace and forge-masters proposed to hinder
the further import of foreign iron by coming to an
agreement among themselves that whenever iron came
in from Europe they would offer their own at a certain
loss under the price of the European merchants, so as
to frighten them off from any further imports. But
they all would not come in, and the few who made the
proposal were unwilling to sacrifice themselves for
the profit of the rest. However, the Americans were

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 201

formerly in a position to send their pig and bar-iron
to England at a profit ; that is to say, they were ex-
empt from the heavy imposts which Russian and
Swedish iron had to pay in England. This was the
case chiefly in the middle colonies, and during the
years 1768-70 the export to England amounted to some
2592 tons bar-iron, and 4624 tons pig, with which they
paid for at least a part of their return cargoes from
England. And besides they took back axes, hoes,
mattocks, shovels, nails, scythes and other fabricated
ware ; for although several of these articles could be
as conveniently made in America as in Europe it could
only be done at a price three times as high. Thus there
has been no especial profit hitherto in America in any-
thing except cast-iron. There was even a time when
crude American iron might be sent to England cheaper
than it could be supplied there. The English owners
of iron-works were in this way inconvenienced and
there was much debate in Parliament over the permis-
sibility of letting in this article from America duty-
free. However, under the pretext it was a worse prod-
uct, every ton of American iron was paid for at an
off-set amounting to the duty on Swedish and Russian
iron. The advantages which this export to England of
American iron formerly enjoyed are, naturally, now
removed ; and for the first time attention will now be
given in America to the preparation and sale of the
cheaper domestic product, so as to hinder the import
of foreign iron. Steel was formerly made to some
little extent in New York, Jersey, and Pensylvania ;
but during and since the war greatly more has been
done in that regard, and it is asserted that at Philadel-
phia steel has been prepared quite as good as the

202 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Styrian steel ; so much at least is proved, that there
is no lack of iron suitable for the purpose.

The following forges and high-furnaces are to be
found merely in Berks County in Pensylvania :

Mr. Udree's forge, Glasgow-forge, Pine-forge,
Spring-forge, and Oley-forge.

Furnaces: i) Mr. Udree's, already mentioned. 2)
Mr. Bird's, whose iron-mines are said to yield lead
also. Two men supply as much as the furnace uses.
3) John Patten's, ten miles above Reading, near
Heidelberg ; the ore from the mines is not sufficient
and more is fetched from Schefferstown and Grubb's
mine, 10-15 miles off. 4) Warwick-Furnace, 19 miles
from Reading, near to Pottsgrove, makes the most
iron ; often 40 tons a week ; the ore lies only 10 ft. be-
low the surface. 5) Reading- furnace, not far from
the preceding ; is at present gone to ruin ; at one time
there was often smelting here for 12-18 months to-
gether. The story is that a negro who had been fore-
man at this furnace discovered silver in the region and
made an excellent thing of it; but being at outs with
his master could not be induced to disclose the spot ;
he broke his neck accidentally and they still look in
vain for his silver.

The Oley hills run pretty well northeast to south-
west ; but not quite regularly, making a few turns.
The hills between them are smaller, broken, and lie in
sundry directions.

They told us of the Ringing-hill, or as the Germans
call it the Klingelberg which lies on the road from
Philadelphia to Reading, some 36 miles from Phila-
delphia, near Falkner's Swamp or Pottsgrove. On
this hill there is a quantity of large, loose rock-frag-

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 203

ments, one over another so that people ascribe the
disturbance to an earth-quake. These stones struck
together give out divers clear and ringing tones ; the
largest fragments, and those not lying on the earth but
upon a bed of other pieces, give the clearest and
sharpest sounds, like a bell. The stone is of a blue
tint, and by reason of the sound is thought to contain
iron, especially since in the springs near-by there is
found a considerable ochre-like deposit ; so this ap-
pears to be similar to the bell-stone mentioned by
Linnaeus in the Westgothische Reise.* The last two or
three days the weather among these hills was uncom-
monly hot. — On the road from Reading to Lebanon,
at Red-house Tavern, a new well had been dug. They
found no water until at a depth of 40 ft. The upper
stratum was several feet of the common sandy-clay
soil ; then, coarse sand and gravel for 18 feet, inter-
mixed with iron-bearing stones. Next was limestone
in fragments, and farther down limestone in beds.

We crossed Tulpehacken Creek, and passed through
a part of the Tulpehacken valley, an especially fine and
fertile landscape along that small stream. The in-
habitants are well to-do and almost all of them Ger-
mans ; for long since the Germans have been looking
out for the best and most fertile lands. Everywhere
here the limestone protruded from the ground, show-
ing in bulky lines from northwest to southeast, also

* Saxum clangosum; Saxum tinnitans ; Bell-stone. " Set up
" it sounded like a metal. It was blackish-grey, showed a little
" iron, consisted of mica so finely flecked with quartz as hardly
" to be seen with the naked eye ; these stones contained besides
" many opaque granates." Linnaeus, Westgoth. Reise, under
June 28.

204 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

from nortli to south. — We met this morning the first
travellers since we had left Nazareth. They were tak-
ing- wheat to Philadelphia in wagons. Hauling is done
to better advantage in Pensylvania than in most of the
other provinces. During the war Pensylvania alone
supplied almost the whole of the American army with
wagons and horses ; and in the British army there were
many Pensylvania horses and teamsters. The Pen-
sylvanians regard size and strength of breed more
than beauty, and their wagons are the strongest and
best in America ; they cover them with sail-cloth
stretched over hoops, and always have four good
horses hitched in front. — We reached Myerstown at
midday, a small village ; a German to whom the land
belonged gave it his name. He was shot thirteen
years ago in his own house at supper, and the mur-
derer has not been found to this day. His son, the
present landlord, came to the tavern in a beggarly rig ;
he did not know how many houses there were in the
place ; ' all I know/ said he, ' is that I have about 600
Pds. rent to collect.' The lots * are 50 ft. by 100, and
pay 16 shillings Pensylv. ground-rent a year. — Keep-
ing on over similar roads, limestone hills and dry, thin,
monotonous oak woods we came to

Lebanon, a not inconsiderable country town ; which
like Reading is laid off in straight streets ; and con-
tains many good houses. And this town also is not
over thirty years old. The town-lots are 40 ft. by 60,
and pay 6 shillings a year ground-rent. The inhabi-
tants are for the most part Germans. There is a

* The portion of land measured off in a new-settled place
for house, yard, and garden.

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 205

Lutheran and a Reformed church here, but no Court-
house as yet. I made the acquaintance of the Lutheran
minister, Dr. Stoy, who, after he had been many years
settled as pastor of the congregation, left them for a
few years to go to Leyden and study the art of medi-
cine. At his house I saw several large and beautiful
pearls which came from a near-by stream, in which
region also traces of excellent pit-coals were found.
Hornblende and several other trifling minerals were
shown me with a mysterious confidence by a German
goldsmith who is hunting for silver. Large specimens
of quartz, brown on the outside and white within,
showing blunted crystals at the surface are often
ploughed up hereabouts. — A dense reddish sand-stone
(freestone) comes to the surface a few miles from here
towards the South Mountain, and is fetched hither for
chimneys &c ; but for house-walls they use the common
grey limestone. A lump of gold, according to Dr.
Stoy (and he named witnesses who had heard it from
other witnesses) was out of gratitude given last spring
by an Indian to a Pensylvania farmer who had fur-
nished him supplies through the winter ; he got it from
the neighboring mountains, and the silly farmer was
too skittish to follow the Indian, who wras willing to
show him where his gold-pocket was. There are al-
ways Germans who bother themselves with such fairy
tales. If the Indians knew where there was gold they
would oftener make it manifest, for they know very
well the value of the yellow metal. Dr. Stoy main-
tained that the descendants of the Germans originally
settled here are less strong and healthy than their
fathers and do not live to be so old, because their
better circumstances make them less industrious and

206 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

more given to extravagances and excesses. He may
be right ; but one must take into consideration that it
was impossible for those to be weaklings who came out
from Germany and got as far as Tulpehacken, over-
coming all manner of difficulties so as to establish

o

themselves in the wilderness. It is true that the physi-
cal constitutions of the Americans, taken in the aver-
age, are certainly not particularly strong or stable. It
may be that the great contrast between the hot season
and the cold, and the frequent sudden changes of the
weather gradually weaken the bodily strength ; it may
be that the minor degree of physical labor to which the
country people are subjected fails to build them up
sufficiently. However, they are healthy, and there is
no lack of instances where people have lived to a great
age. On the other hand, they have in general several
striking advantages. Throughout America one sees
few mis-shapen people. The generality is slender, tall,
and well formed. So will be found the Virginians in
especial, and among them may be observed again the
happy influence of a warm climate, characteristics
which in the old world distinguished the Georgians,
Circassians, Persians, and Greeks. A number of physi-
cal deformities very common in Europe are much more
rarely seen in America.

A letter which I had brought to him gave me the
opportunity of knowing another Doctor ; and only
with difficulty was I able to rid myself of him. Quite
against our will he insisted on taking us the next
morning to a marvellous cave, the like of which ac-
cording to him was not to be seen elsewhere in the
world. It was a rainy day, and for several hours we
were led about aimlessly through the woods ; finally,

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 207

having crossed the Quitupahilla, we came to a lime-
stone quarry in which there was a natural opening,
narrow and low, pointing towards the southeast. We
went up a few steps to a milk cellar which had been
installed at the entrance of the cave, for the con-
venience of the houses near-by. Thence the hole
wound away about 150 ft. towards the southwest ; there
was no going farther, because the cave continually
got narrower. The greatest height and breadth was
some 6 feet, and a few smaller cavities gave off at the
sides. The cave contains a quantity of stalactites, in
which our Doctor has discovered a new and powerful
antidote, news of which he has sent to Philadelphia.
He calcined, that is to say, these stalactites, and found
— that the powder was as efficacious as Mercurius
praecipitatus in extreme cases ; and he told us repeat-
edly that he would not have disclosed this treasure to
merely anybody. Mr. Grubb's iron-works are known
throughout Pensylvania. We directed our way thither
but found neither the Colonel nor the Captain (father
and son) at home. They had gone to salt-water, that
is, to the sea coast ; a journey which the well to-do
living inland often make during the hot season, for
their pleasure and for the healthfulness of the baths.
In the absence of the owners, to whom I had letters, I
could find nobody who would take the trouble to give
us any information. These iron-works lie near to the
South Mountain and not far from Lebanon. Several
short and broken hills running in promiscuous direc-
tions are made up almost wholly of good rich ore
which lies shallow beneath the surface. To get out
this ore nothing whatever need be known of mining.
The ore is dug out of the hills quite as elsewhere pav-

208 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

ing-stones are got out. They make a distinction here
between a red and a black iron-stone, these differing
in magnitude and the layers breaking out differently.
Grubb possesses such a store of iron in these hills that
he supplies other establishments at a price. The
wooded hills adjacent, for 6-8 miles around, belong to
him. An Irishman, just recently come out from
Europe, was the only one polite enough to show us
the place where the ore was dug and roasted. He
seemed very dissatisfied, deceived in his expectations
af America; 50 shillings a month and keep hardly
seemed to him worth the trouble of exchanging dear
Ireland for America. — There lay about numbers of 12
and 24 pounders, and a quantity of iron ovens. At
times there is a lack of water, and the works are often
long interrupted on that account. Very near is to be
found also the red foundation-stone, as about Reading.
-Another iron mine, + on one of the hills near-by,
contains copper besides, which is often a great hind-
rance in smelting, unless every care be taken, spoiling
the iron. Many other of the American iron-mines con-
tain copper, it is said, and several of them lead.

Three miles from here, at Orth's Tavern, we found
quarters for the night. The whole family and neigh-
bors willing to help, all of them Germans, were occu-
pied in peeling and cutting the fallen apples, (mostly
green), so as to dry them; the English country-people
have not so generally adopted this means of using their
superfluous fruit. For the entertainment of the nu-
merous company a humorous old Irishman was retail-
ing his jests. He was 65 years old, drank every day
his allowance, and more, of brandy, and worked em-
ulously along with any young man. His trade was

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 209

stump-grubbing, and since he dug more stumps and
more skilfully than others he called himself the King
of the Grubbers. This business, always difficult, is not
so much so in America as in Europe ; because almost
everywhere here the roots take no great hold in the
earth. A stump-grubber receives 20-24 shillings
Pensylv. Current and victuals, for every acre of land
he clears ; clearing up an acre in 3-4 days.

This evening the extraordinary number of locusts,
(apparently more numerous here than elsewhere),
were making an unspeakable uproar in the near-by
garden, woods, and bush. The history of this insect
is not yet thoroughly known. They are called locusts
and again grass-hoppers. — They are said to appear
only once in 16 or 17 years in the extraordinary num-
bers they show almost everywhere this year. In the
year 1766, and thus 17 years ago, they appeared in
similar quantities. They deposit their eggs on the young
branches of most trees. When, after a few weeks,
the sun's warmth has hatched them out, the young
descend to the ground, get into holes and remain
until after some time they come out in force, chiefly
to carry on their breeding. It is claimed that they have
been found 30 ft. deep in the ground ; trustworthy
people have assured me that they have seen them 8-9
ft. deep. Regarding the time they spend in the ground
there is uncertainty ; some people hold that they stay
in the ground many years, and point to the following
circumstance. It is universally the case that these
locusts keep in and about woods and nowhere else, and
the young creep into the ground immediately where
they are. And often they have been observed coming
out of the ground in places where for several years
14

210 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the wood had been cleared off, and hence it is believed
they were all that time in the ground at those places.
But this is not proof that they have passed 16-17
years in the earth. When they come out, they bring
a thin, transparent coat of exactly their shape. In
this coat they crawl to the nearest bush, tree, or other
fixed body, stick themselves fast, and extract them-
selves from their shell through an opening from the
shoulder to the fore-part of the head. Of these empty
hulls there are found numbers fixed to trees, fences,
and strong grass-stalks. These locusts furnish many
animals with a gluttonous fare ; hogs and chickens
especially fatten on them ; and the Indians, it is said,
eat them at times as delicacies. During their breeding
season, throughout the summer almost, they make
from morning until evening a loud, incessant noise,
so that wherever they are numerous in the woods
hardly anything else can be heard. (Cicada septemde-
cini. Linn.) — Another insect, of the cricket species,
makes nearly as much noise ; they call them about New
York ' Katy did's ' + and ' Katy did's not,' from the
similarity of their shrill note to those words. They
come every year and are heard throughout the summer
until late in the fall.

The road to Hummelstown was mostly level ;
through nothing but woods, and we saw few houses.
A skunk ran straight across the road ; our dog gave
chase, but sure of his defence the skunk by no means
doubled his pace, trotted quietly on, and all at once
gave the worrisome dog his entire stinking cargo.
The dog was close behind ; at the opportunity the
skunk raised his tail, turned it over his back, but made
no use of it, as is elsewhere stated, in squirting the

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 211

dose. He kept on his way quite calmly, but the dog
jumped back with a distressing howl, and was chased
off by us as precipitately. For both he and the atmos-
phere stank unspeakably at the moment ; he rubbed
his muzzle incessantly in the sand, and wallowed in
every puddle, but the unbearable smell stayed by him
4-5 days, and he had to submit to be run out of houses
everywhere.

Hummelstown — a place of perhaps 50 houses, built
along the road, and only 20 years begun. The first
land-lord, Hummel, a German, has been dead some
years. The town lots are 60 ft. by 80 and pay 15
shillings yearly Pensylv. Current. — A mile from the
place, behind Valentin Hummel's house, there is a
cavern which reaches quite through a limestone hill.
The cavern is 4-500 ft. long, and from 12 to 30 ft.
high. The larger entrance curves considerably to the
southwest, towards the Swatara ; the smaller opening
gives to the northwest. The rock is the grey, scaly
limestone, which is the same as far as Nazareth. Large
pieces of rock lie fallen in the cave, which has nothing
remarkable to show beyond many variously shaped
stalactites. Bats live there. Petrifactions are looked
for in vain, as throughout this limestone tract. With-
out doubt there are similar caves in this and other
regions where the rock is stratified ; far above this
cave may be seen sunken spots due to the rock giving
beneath ; sinks like these appear frequently where no
caves are known to exist below. Valentin Hummel,
who took us to the place, was of the opinion that the
land of this region is too good for dunging because it
still brings good hemp ; indeed the hemp stood here-
abouts six to eight feet high, but is raised only for do-

212 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

mestic use. Such over-confident opinions regarding
the inexhaustible goodness of his soil gradually puts
the farmer's industry to sleep, and when, finally, better-
ment is necessary many of them had rather move on
to take up fresh land than be at the trouble of im-
proving the old.

A few miles from Hummelstown flows the Susque-
hannah. Here at Harris's Ferry it is three quarters
of a mile wide, but in the summer months so shallow
that only canoes can cross ; horses and wagons ford
over. In the middle are a few small islands, called
Harris's and also Turkey Islands. These, with the
steep limestone banks on the farther side, the mount-
ains running left and right, and the fine breadth of the
stream make all together a beautiful landscape. A
shallow ford being at this place, it comes about that
most travellers, particularly the Virginia cattle-dealers
(and others farther on), bringing up their herds,
choose this ford while the water is low, so as to avoid
the expense of the ferries above and below, where the
river remains deep even in summer.

On the farther bank an extraordinary ' stag-horn '
sumac (Rhus typhinum) excited our astonishment; its
trunk was over 12 ft. high and near a foot in diameter.
In the more northern parts they grow smaller and
bushier. There is a spring of the finest water near
the edge of the river ; it is thought remarkable that this
spring is governed by the rise and fall of the river,
and stands at a constant level above the surface of the
river-water ; there is nothing wonderful in this when
it is considered that the spring and the river communi-
cate through a bent pipe as it were. This side the
Susquehannah the Conedogwynet Creek flows in
through a beautiful and deep valley.

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 213

At White's Tavern, seven miles from the river by
the road, we met a herd of black cattle + which had
come about 500 miles from the frontiers of North
Carolina, and was destined for Philadelphia. The
handlers do not always find their account in this long-
distance traffic. Shortly before, a herd had been driven
by this place which could be sold at Philadelphia for
only 9 Spanish dollars the head, 3-4 years old and
weighing some 500 pounds. Not only do the cattle
in so long a journey become thinner and worse-look-
ing, but the Pensylvania farmer squints at the busi-
ness because he himself raises enough cattle to over-
stock the market. But the people from the back parts
of Carolina and Virginia, having no large populous
towns near them, must make this long and tedious
journey if they are to get any use of their numerous
cattle. But situated as they are they themselves gain
next to nothing.

Almost the entire family at White's Tavern + was
smitten with an intermittent fever. Nothing of this
sickness was known in this hitherto dry region until a
few years ago a mill and dam were established here.
Afterwards I heard the same complaint at many places
in the mountains and everywhere a similar reason was
given.

The forests this side the river had a better look, al-
though still consisting largely of oak. We saw only
a few good houses along* the road from the river to
this place, and little cultivated land. Coming nearer
to Carlisle, after riding through so many miles of
woods, one is agreeably startled to find suddenly spread
before him a beautiful, open, high-lying plain, quite
without trees. In the eternal woods it is impossible to

214 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

keep off a particularly unpleasant, anxious feeling,
which is excited irresistibly by the continuing shadow
and the confined outlook. One breathes freer and
everything seems to take on a brighter, more glad-
some look, so soon as the eye feels the limits of the
view extended, although really this bald prospect any-
where else would have precisely a contrary effect.

Carlisle. This pretty little town is the chief place
of Cumberland county, and very nearly midway be-
tween the South and North Mountain, here about 10-
12 miles apart. Carlisle is 17 miles from the Susque--
hannah and 120 from Philadelphia, whence by this
place is the customary road to the Ohio, as well
as from and to the outlying regions of the southern
provinces. The town is therefore well situated for the
inland trade, and drives a considerable trade of that
sort ; formerly it had also the greatest part of the trade
with the Indians, who brought hither and exchanged
their furs. This traffic came to a stand during the
war, and it is not yet known whether in future the
Indians will consent to come back to this place. The
consuming hate which the citizens of the new states
have for them and will not at once cast off, makes it
probable that in the future the Indians will seek mar-
kets for the exchange of their furs either to the north
along the Canadian lakes and the river Lawrence or
to the west on the Mississippi, and they will find
plenty of encouragement to do so. But even with the
loss of this traffic, Carlisle has still a great deal of
trade, because all the people living in the mountains
fetch hence what they need. It is already noticeable
in the place that trade is carried on there, which has
an influence on the manners of the inhabitants. The

FROM NAZARETH TO CARLISLE 215

streets of the town are straight and there are many
genteel houses, with a German Lutheran church, a
Presbyterian Meeting-house, a Town-hall, and a gaol.
Outside the town there is a long, new-built, four-file
barracks where during the war a number of workmen
made muskets, locks, sabres, and the like. Here also
cannons were forged from iron gads and hoops sol-
dered together, which in strength and beauty were
little inferior to metal ordnance. Not far from here
are Mr. Eger's iron-works. To the north, and not far
away, is a cave through the opening of which a loaded
wagon may pass, very spacious within and said to con-
tain smaller chambers and a fine spring. All that was
said of it did not tempt me to a visit, because nothing
more remarkable was probably to be expected than I
had already seen in other caves afore-mentioned. The
ladies of Carlisle are accustomed to resort thither to
drink tea.

The bat common on the coast, without front-teeth,
(or the North American bat *) is seen also farther
inland. From the snout it is commonly four inches
long; breadth of the wings 10 inches, the face of a
light brown color, but the ears and wings black — I have
also seen them with two front-teeth in the upper jaw,
straight and sharp, but with none in the under- jaw ; I
saw one here like this ; it may be asked whether these
are merely sports? It is more probable that the de-
scription given by Mr. Pennant of his New York bat
was made from an immature specimen.

In a musk-rat f which we saw along this road I ob-

* Schreber's Saiigthiere, I, 176.

t Ondathra. Schreber's Saiigthiere, IV, 638. Kalm, III, 25.

216 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

served that the skin of the roof of the mouth is built up
in terrace fashion, as it were, and that at both corners
of the mouth long bristles are pointed in towards the
mouth. The eyes appeared to me smaller than I had
before observed, and there were no hairs on the lids.
The upper front-teeth were not covered by the lip.
The female of this animal has not the strong musk-
like odor of the male. The testicles are placed in the
abdomen.

Jfrom Carlisle to tfte SDfrio

Coming from Nazareth we had the Blue or Kitta-
tiny Mountain always in sight except for a little while
near Reading. It seemed always as if the road was
leading straight to the mountain, and one never got
nearer; the reason being that in these parts the range
makes a bend to the west without altering its chief
course from northeast to southwest. Towards Car-
lisle the ridge does not lie so unbroken as before, but
shows more and deeper cuts, and falls away more
precipitously to the South. At any point where there
is an outlook over a tract of this range, the view is in-
deed august, of its high and seemingly straight wall
extending away. From Carlisle to Shippensburg it is
21 miles through tiresome woods, still over the same
dry limestone soil and between the North, or Kitta-
tiny, and the South Mountain. At M'Gregan's, 14
miles from Carlisle I saw for the first time a variation
in the marble and limestone hitherto observed by me.
The house was built of a very beautiful grey and liver-
colored marble, of a hard and fine grain. The quarry
was not far off. Since I had before seen everywhere
nothing but rough, grey limestone and marble, I had
been very much inclined to believe that several persons
were right whom I had heard say that America stands
far behind the old world in the variety and the beauty
of coloring of its marble. Those observations were
grounded merely on the species occuring in the nether
regions, among which, to be sure, there is little variety.

218 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

As yet, too little is known of the fossils of the new

J '

world to warrant any invidious statements. — Marl,
building-stone, and iron-ore are found in this region ;
but we saw very few and insignificant block-houses
and plantations.

Shippensburg has a good number of houses, but
mostly of wood. There are really two distinct places,
each standing on the side of a little hill. We paid here
uncommonly dear for very sorry entertainment. From
here the great road to the frontiers of Virginia and
Carolina keeps on along the valley between the North
and South Mountain ; but our road now lay to the
right towards the mountain itself, and from now on
began to grow worse, for miles together full of loose
limestone rocks. Wild turkeys we had hitherto seen
only here and there, and singly, in the remoter parts ;
but today we came upon sundry large flocks. They
were running on the road in the woods, and with the
utmost speed got into the bush ; a few were roosting
on trees. They are distinguished from the tame sort
only in being more uniformly black, brown, or dirty
white ; for the rest they are quite like them and belong
to the same species. Here and there the statement is
made that they mix and breed with the tame sort, but
this is also denied. Their flesh is well-tasting, and
they are found of good weights.

Seven miles from Shippensburg a well was digging
where a new house was going up. The first 15 feet
there was the common yellow sandy clay; then 20 ft.
through limestone rock ; the limestone growing darker,
verging on black, farther down, and showing holes and
nests of clear white spath-crystals which in the air
soon softened and grew darker. At 35 ft. no water
had been found.

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 219

The man here owned 300 acres of land in part
ploughable. A few years ago he bought it at 5 Pd.
Pensylv. Current the acre, and paid for it in paper-
money at a time when this was worth about 50 for one
in hard dollars ; so that the small estate cost him only
60 Pds. hard money. He was one of the few who were
wise enough during the war to exchange their paper-
money for land + at the right time. In order to get free
of the linen-money, high prices were offered for land,
and thus many land-owners, willing to put faith in the
solemn promises of the Congress, were tempted to let
go their holdings, in the expectation of putting out the
paper capital at usury, for they flattered themselves
they would be able to exchange it very soon for like
amounts in silver. But unfortunately all these specu-
lators found themselves vastly deceived in the result. —
On his 300 acres this man pays 12 Pd. Pensylv. Cur-
rent, and praises it as good land.

Just in this region both the North and the South
Mountain appear all at once very high, steep, and
crested, but the latter soon falls away and seems to
disappear. The road to Fort Loudon now proceeds
over hills alternately of yellow flint-stone and rough,
black, broken, slaty soil through the whole of Hamil-
ton Township ; and no more limestone is to be seen on
these hills. It is said that on digging down gravel is
reached after 10-15 ft. of this sort of slate. Most
of the foot-hills seemed to be of this structure. Lime-
stone very probably lies beneath, for the other road
through Chambers-town to Loudon is through lime-
stone the whole way, and it appears again on descend-
ing the other side of these hills towards Fort Loudon.
This almost forgotten and certainly ruined fort was

220 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

built for protection against the Indians during the war
before the last. Now nothing is there but a few miser-
able cabins. For the site of the fort a wide opening
was chosen, several miles broad, which occurs here in
the wall of the Blue Mountain or its continuation.
Keeping on by a narrow road cut out of the great
woods and, as the case was today with cloudy weather
besides, one finds himself suddenly, (and apparently
without having climbed any especial ascent) in the
rear of the mountain which shortly before had lain in
front ; for the road which hitherto has run southwest
turns gradually through the gap and continues north
and northwest around sundry high and noble eleva-
tions. Among them Bernard's Knob is the steepest
and highest, of a truncated crest. Every 1-2 miles a
sorry block-house is seen in the woods, until (a few
miles from Fort Loudon) the somewhat better house
of a Mr. Harris is reached. It was late, and it was
raining ; the wife had first to be consulted, she agreed,
and we were taken in ; having set behind us 27 miles
from Shippensburg.

Our agreeable host was a native Englishman and,
for such a mountain country, well to-do. Besides his
farming and cattle-raising he makes a trade of tan-
ning ; pays out nothing for bark and little for hides,
but sells his leather as dear as that brought from else-
where. For tanning he prefers especially the bark of
the chesnut-oak, because it gives the leather a higher
and clearer color than the bark of other oaks. Besides,
this bark is distinguished for a particularly pleasant
odor, which it imparts to the water. The bark of the
black-oak makes good leather also, but gives it an ugly
dark color. Most of the country-people in America

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 221

know how to tan and themselves prepare, in little pits,
the greatest part of the leather they need. They have
even learned from the Indians an easy and rapid
method of making leather from the skins of both wild
and domestic animals. They call it Hirn-garmachen,
i. e. brain-tanning. The skins are scraped ; the brain
of the animal, perhaps a bear, is broiled with the fat, and
then the soup is thinned with water ; the skins are sev-
eral times rubbed smartly with this brew, and after-
wards smoked. It is not a very cleanly process, but the
leather is supple, good for all manner of use, and
durable. — Our host had also set up a saw-mill, and
makes a profit on the boards, getting the logs for the
mere trouble of taking them. For these remote forests
are at this time almost nobody's property. With all
the rest of the unsurveyed, unsold, or unleased land,
they were formerly held by the Penn family ; but now
belong to the state of Pensylvania which has not the
time to worry over such a trifle as a few thousand
tree-trunks. The former proprietors were glad if any-
body in the more unsettled parts cut off the wood and
made use of it, because it was then the easier to bring
in people and sell them the land at a good price. —
However, these desolate-seeming woods are not alto-
gether without inhabitants. They are about in spots,
where one hardly expects to find them, at the foot of
hills and by brooks. There is even a plantation on the
top of a high mountain to the right of us. Not until
after the war before the last did people begin to settle
here and spread about.

The basis of these mountains is a quartz-grained
rock, from which good mill-stones are taken. Rough
grind-stones are also found, but not many. The

222 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

valley here extending north, like most of the valleys
from this point on, contains limestone. Iron-ore is
found here and there, and there are traces of copper.
To the left there runs a little chain of hills towards
Fort Littleton and Sideling-hill, with other hills en-
closing fertile valleys, already thickly settled and
known as ' the great and little Cove/

The next morning, a mile beyond Harris's house,
we came to the so-called tavern which we had been
unable to reach the day before ; and had no cause for
regret, finding a lamentable cabin, and shop at the same
time. For the convenience of the people living
scattered about, shops of this sort (under the very
engaging name of ' stores ') keep everything that may
be needed ; as, sugar, coffee, tea, wine, spirits, linen,
woolen stuffs, hats, stockings, paper, books, spices,
iron-ware, and the like. The country-people have not
always cash money for purchases, but then the store-
keepers or merchants take any sort of produce in ex-
change. In the mountains and other remote regions
hides and skins are the especial money. This or a
similar adjustment is the case almost everywhere in
America. Other travelling merchants (pedlars) go
about the country in little wagons, selling and swap-
ping; fetch their freight from and return with it to
the larger and smaller towns where, as yet, there is no
great variety of handicraftsmen, but at least the most
necessary, such as tailors, cobblers, dyers, smiths, lock-
smiths, hatters &c, and then, merchants, lawyers, sur-
geons, and others, who supply the wants of the far-
scattered settlers.

After seven miles through a stony valley the foot of
the Tuscarora is reached, which from its situation ap-

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 223

pears to correspond to the Pekono, mentioned in the
journey to Wyoming. In the woods we saw a few
cabins and only a little ploughed land. The soil of this
valley was for the most part gravelly and slaty, with
fragments of a reddish sand-stone showing quartz-
veins. The Tuscarora, which is pretty high and steep,
was of the same sort of rock. There appeared also a
reddish quartz, the surface quite covered with little
clear-glistening crystals. The mass of the mountain
seemed to be partly fine, partly coarse-grained quartz,
overlaid with grey sand-stone not so regularly laminated
as elsewhere. At the top of the mountain was a tap-
house built of wood, where, as commonly in these parts,
nothing but bad whiskey is to be had. The Cove-hills
were to the left and Path Valley to the right. From
the ridge of the Tuscarora to Fort Littleton it is 10
miles. We saw several deserted cabins, so they call
the smaller block-houses, built of unhewn logs placed
one above another. Passed the Burnt Cabins, a region
still so called from a few cabins burnt during the war
before the last. Arrived at a negative inn. The host
answered everything with No; one might ask for
whiskey, cyder, milk, food, anything ; he had in return
for every question two others to put — Where bound?
Where from? How far? Frenchmen? Prisoners?
Looking for land? Trafficking? &c &c., all which, in
retaliation, we answered with No. Three miles
further, over gentle hills of sand and clay brought us to
Fort Littleton. It is merelv one house that bears

j

this name ; but a considerable extent of land around is
cleared of wood, and this of itself gives the place a
cheerful aspect. Behind the house are the remains of
a fort, set up against the Indians in the war before the

224 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

last war — from which the house has inherited the
name.

The valleys around are pretty well settled, but, for
the trees one cannot see the houses, of which there
must be a number, if one is found every mile or two.
Path Valley and Aughwick Valley show a good and
fertile soil and excellent grass. These people were
greatly embarrassed over the long drouth this sum-
mer. They must always get their winter wheat into
the ground before the end of August, because other-
wise the following year it will not be large and strong
enough to be safe against the mildew. But while the
farmer, here as elsewhere, is expecting the rain neces-
sary for seeding, he often loses valuable time and
finds himself in the end mistaken, or his harvest not so
good. In such cases it would be an advantage, with a
little more trouble, if the device was adopted which
Hasselquist mentions as in use among the Egyptians,
where the ploughman, by means of a water-skin slung
over his shoulder, supplies the furrow with enough
moisture for the development of the seed which is
dropped immediately behind him. — Iron and lime are
found in these valleys. In these mountain regions, as
throughout Pensylvania, much spelt is raised ; which
is used more as feed for horses than in any other way.
There are nowhere set up mills of a fashion to grind
the fine meal from it. Horses like it and thrive on it.
—From here to the foot of the Sideling-hills, nine and
a half miles, we found the road better than we had ex-
pected, for the most part level, and red clay soil, which
promises good wheat-land. Saw only two cabins the
whole way, the only ones in these parts.

Sideling-hill is, together with the Alleghany and

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 225

Laurel-hill, one of the most considerable ranges of
these mountains. We had been given a fearful de-
scription of it, and therefore probably found it the
more endurable. The road up and down is somewhat
steep and stony, but along the ridge there are many
wide, level, sandy stretches. The range is in fact two
ranges, (running parallel and joined by hills between),
of which that to the east is called Sideling and that
to the west Rayshill. Both show quartz-grained rock,
coarse and again clear, and scaly sand-stones. The
range is in height by no means above the limits of
vegetation, but like all these mountains is covered with
forest and bush in which, along our road, we found
nothing especially remarkable. The same trees pre-
vail as in the lower country. On the sandy flats of the
ridge there grew many twi-bladed firs, or ; Jersey
pines.'

It is seven miles from the woful tavern on the one
side to the first house on the other. Half way over the
mountain we came upon one of the encamping-grounds
very many of which are seen along lonesome mountain
roads and in other sparsely settled regions. These are
grazing spots and little places cleared of wood, near a
good spring or a clear-flowing stream, some of them
having been selected by the Indians. The farmers,
teamsters, and pack-horse men in America do not
commonly lodge or feed at the rare and necessitous
taverns ; they take with them provisions for themselves
and their horses, make fires, go to bed in the forest
and turn their horses out to graze — and these some-
times wander off or are set upon by wolves and eaten.

The western slope of the mountain is very much
the steeper. In a house standing at its foot a poor
15

226 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

family, with their cattle, were murdered the last year
of the war, probably by the Indians. The dog belong-
ing to the family came to a neighbor's house and in his
whimpering dog-language bewailed the sad event. He
was chased off, but continued coming back to repeat
his story, and by flatteries and courteously running be-
fore seemed to be asking the neighbor to follow him,
until finally some one went with him back to the house
and there found the slain.

Farther on we came over Crossing-hill down to
Juniata Creek, its crooked banks shaded by calamus,
cephalanthus, rhododendron, Weymouth fir, chesnut
and beech. The Juniata falls into the Susquehannah ;
it was not deep at this time, but in the spring and
autumn swells to the inconvenience of the traveller.
The slopes of Crossing-hill showed a red, micaceous,
compact sand-stone (cos), iron-bearing, and splitting
in half-inch slabs. Towards the summit there ap-
peared a fine grey grind-stone which is used for the
purpose to good advantage. Beyond the- stream there
lives a Colonel in a wooden hut. — We kept on over
hills not so high, in which there is found greyish or
reddish whet-stone (cos) splitting in slabs an inch
thick ; in these were to be seen dendrites roughly
sketched across. At midday, seven miles this side
Bedford, we arrived at Captain Paxton's house. The
bread was baking in the pan. The meat had a smell.
There was no whiskey. Coffee and tea had just given
out. — However, the country between these hills is at
times beautiful and there is much good land, especially
up the Juniata along which runs the road to Bedford,
a narrow valley between high steep mountains where
warmth and moisture assure a livelier green and the

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 227

trees luxuriating in a fat soil cast wider shadows. Be-
fore reaching Bedford, the Juniata has to be crossed
five times ; the last crossing is over a neat wooden
bridge. We passed several houses and a mill.

The blue magnolia or mountain magnolia (Magnolia
acuminata Linn.) was one of the more conspicuous
trees peculiar to this mountain region. They call it
here the cucumber tree, because its long cones, before
they ripen and open, are in shape somewhat like that
fruit. The seeds, seed-receptacles, and in less degree
the bark and twigs have in common with other mag-
nolias a very pleasant bitterness of taste, and the seeds
are often used in bitter spirituous infusions. This tree
is distinguished from its relatives by its habitat ; it is
found only in dry spots in the mountains, and bears
more cold than other magnolias. The ripe seed-vessels
have a pleasant odor and taste something like the cala-
mus. The unripe fruit blackens the fingers and stains
the knife.

Bedford is a little town, but a little town in a great
wilderness may easily please without beauty. Here
one has come 96 miles, or not quite half the way from
Carlisle to Pittsburg. The place is regularly planned,
has a court-house, and is the county-seat of the ex-
tensive Bedford county, its namesake and as yet very
little peopled. There are two houses of worship, for
Lutherans and Presbyterians ; these cannot be called
churches, being only wooden huts. In the war before
the last a fort was built here, partly to control the in-
vading Indians and partly to aid the operations di-
rected towards the Ohio ; this fort was in connection
with the old Fort Cumberland on the Potomack, 20
miles south of here, and Fort Shirley on the Juniata.

228 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

After the capture and abandonment of Fort du Quesne
(now Fort Pitt) on the Ohio, these defences were
given over. But the establishment of this town was
seen to be necessary in order to the easier maintenance
of communication with the new conquered frontiers,
and particularly as an encouragement and convenience
to the people settled in these mountains. The place is
quite surrounded with hills and mountains. The ele-
vation of its site makes the weather often somewhat
cool, although the latitude is almost the same as that
of Philadelphia. The 2nd of September, the day after
our arrival, it was so cold that fires could not be dis-
pensed with. In the morning the thermometer stood
at 42 degrees Fahrenheit. Heavy hoar-frost these
mornings covered all low and shaded spots, and people
claimed to have seen ice and even snow on the mount-
ains. All cucumbers and melons were frozen in the
gardens. And yet the week before, the heat was so
excessive that clothes were burdensome. But the
country is healthy and supports no Doctor, because the
people are not often sick ; and they are sick less be-
cause they have no Doctor. Just now there prevails
an uneasy wonderment in the neighborhood. Two
young girls at a mill, in a spot made swampy by the
new mill-dam, were attacked with the cold fever or
ague, a malady hitherto unheard-of here. People came
from a distance to see this wonder.

The town of Bedford and the country around do not
yet produce what is necessary to pay for their wants.
Hunting must supply the rest ; skins and furs, which
their guns bring in, are all they have to send to market.
And on account of the distance and the badness of
the roads the people are kept from taking up more

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 229

land than they themselves can use in a small way.
The Juniata may contribute somewhat to a better trade
in future. Boats of 12-15 tons can almost nine months
in the year come up to within a mile or two of Bedford.
Four men can with no great trouble push such a boat
against the stream.

There was mentioned to me a man who had smelted
silver from stone found on Stoney Creek. He lived
in the woods a mile from the town in a miserable
smoky cabin, quite alone, with neither human nor
animal society. It so happened, but not without the
persuasions of my landlord who accompanied me, that
be brought out a small piece of his silver, which he
pretended had been melted out at a forge, and showed
me a large sack full of roasted and powdered ore, but
no crude ore. Like all people of this stamp he was
very mysterious, and notwithstanding his find ex-
tremely poor. The next morning he came and offered
to sell me his sack of powdered stone. The owner of
the land, whence he fetches his supposed wealth, does
not hinder him from taking all he wants. This same
man told me of a blue stone, full of muscles, which he
had seen three miles from here at a certain Henry
White's mill, but that was several years ago. I prom-
ised to reward him for his trouble if he brought me
some of it ; he went away and came back with the
excuse that he could not find the place now. In the
sand-stone of the mountain near-by I knew from my
own observations that impressions of muscles are to
be found, but I should have been curious to know
whether those mentioned by this man occur likewise
in the limestone common hereabouts — for I have never
observed even the slightest trace of petrifaction in
the limestone.

230 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

The mountains, in the midst of which we are, con-
sist of several ranges running pretty nearly parallel.
At one time they are called all together the Blue
Mountains and again the Alleghany Mountains, but
these designations belong more exactly to individual
ranges ; for each of the sundry ranges has its own
name. The easternmost of all is the often mentioned
North or Kittatinny Mountain which is often pref-
erably called the Blue Mountain merely. Between it
and the South Mountain lying parallel and farther
east, runs the broad, beautiful, and rich limestone
valley which we followed a distance of 140 miles from
Nazareth to Shippensburg ; this extends much farther
towards the south, into Carolina and perhaps Georgia.
Behind the Kittatinny, to the west, lie several indefi-
nite ranges following the same direction. Among these
are the ranges observed on the road from Fort London
to this place, the Tuscarora, Shade Mountain, Black-
log, Sideling-hill, Rayshill, Aleguippy, and Evits
Mountain ; and before us now, between Bedford and
Pittsburg, are Willis's Mountain, Alleghany, Laurel-
hill, Chesnut-hill, and others. But the continuations of
these mountains have most of them other names
farther north (as will be recalled from the journey to
Wyoming) , and others again farther south ; but they
all belong together and form a principal chain of
mountains. This chain begins really near the Hudson
river in New York, and thence runs through almost all
the more southern provinces, in a direction from north-
east to southwest, and in consequence pretty nearly on
a parallel with the eastern coasts washed by the At-
lantic ocean, from which these mountains keep a dis-
tance of 100-150 miles, and farther south 200 miles.

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 231

From New York into Virginia they have the name
Alleghany Mountains ; through Carolina and Georgia
and until, gradually diminishing, they lose themselves
in Florida, they are called the Apalachian Mountains.
To the north and east of the Hudson river, they have
very probably a connection with the New England and
Canadian mountains. Northwest of these mountains,
towards the Canadian lakes, the country is indeed less
mountainous, but its level is higher than that of these
mountains themselves, and so there is ground for re-
garding the region about the Canadian lakes and be-
yond them as the highest platforms of North America.
But considered as mountain-chains and ridges, the
Alleghany and Apalachian Mountains are the highest
within the territory of the United States, and probably
in all North America (the more western parts of which
we still know very little of) ; however they lose on
comparison with the mountains of South America as
well as with the chief systems of Europe.

Between the principal ranges of these mountains
there lie smaller hills, cut-ofTs and jutties, which for
divers reasons show different directions. The great
and principal ranges are distinguished by their more
parallel course, their greater height, and the species of
their rock. This appears to be in basis a grained,
quartzose rock, invariably overlaid with laminated
sand-stone or whet-stone species, in which appear
pretty often traces of sea-organisms. The lower hills,
frequently parallel with the mountains, and the valleys
contain limestone, in which I at least have discovered
no traces of organic remains. The chief ranges such
as the Kittatinny, Tuscarora, Sideling, and others,
present on the whole very regular, uniform slopes, but

232 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

their continuity is here and there broken by great open-
ings or gaps. Between their highest ranges there are
long, broad, and fertile high-lying valleys. These
mountains as a whole, but especially the Alleghany,
(more distinct throughout its course), form the water-
shed of the country to the east and the west, the
streams flowing off to the one side or the other. These
mountains, in regard to their ranges and branches, are
very differently traced in the several maps, and it can
hardly be otherwise since no examination of them has
been made for the purpose. Governor Pownall's and
Captain Hutchins's maps + in this respect seem to be
the most reliable.

Although there are said to be many farms about
Bedford, some of them already good, we did not pass
a house until we had gone four miles on our road, and
it was three miles farther to another house. The
owner of this one had recently, for 200 Pd. Pensylv.
Current, bought no less than 300 acres of land, was
satisfied with his purchase, and called it good land.
From here on we had 12 miles through a thin forest
of little, spindling oaks, which had to find a meagre
living on a dry and narrow ridge, and there was among
them almost no undergrowth or bush. This long
drawn-out hill, ' the dry ridge ' is a jutty, what they
call here a ' spur ' of the Alleghany, and a good many
like it leave the main ridge. It is covered with broken
slabs of a reddish, micaceous sand-stone, from half an
inch to an inch thick ; it is noticeable that most of the
fragments along this road and everywhere hereabouts
have more or less a four-cornered shape. We found a
dearth of plants here and little variety among them.
In the afternoon at four o'clock we arrived at a large

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 233

tavern where, if one brings meat and drink along with
him he finds room enough to dispose of them. Two
young fellows kept house but had nothing except
whiskey and cheese ; bread and meat are accidental
articles. We were obliged to push on over the Alle-
ghany and as far as its foot had a swampy and stony
road.

The Alleghany, one of the longest and most con-
spicuous ranges, does not appear so high as might be
expected from its giving its name to the rest. But it
must be remembered that the road has been continually
over higher and higher ranges, and in consequence the
base of the Alleghany must be very elevated. On the
other hand the eye is again pleased with a steep wall
of a mountain running almost straight from northeast
to southwest. The sun was just going down when we
reached the foot of the mountain, and the tall thick
woods soon hid from us completely the dull twilight
and we found ourselves in darkness. A few other
travellers had joined us at the last house ; they were as
much strangers here as we, and were as little pleased
at stumbling from stones to slough, and from slough to
stones. We were not prepared to stay in the woods ;
we could neither make a fire nor care for our horses.
Everything was dead, still, and dark about us ; nothing
could be heard from the four-footed or feathered in-
habitants of these wastes. After four miles, which in
our situation seemed to us endless, we reached the
cabin of a smith on the other side of the mountain who
on occasion plays the innkeeper. Unfortunately his
house was no inn this evening ; he had nothing, and
we must grope for two heavy miles more, to the farm
of an Anabaptist by the name of Spiker whose milk-

234 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

white countenance stood out of a raven-black beard.
We arrived after 10 o'clock ; he kept no tavern and we
were glad of it, for we were taken in willingly and
given milk, butter, and bread, and straw for a couch.

The Glades or ' Glade-Settlements ' begin here.
This is the name given the great broad valley, which
lies between the Alleghany and the next-following
Laurel-hill, and is here 10-12 miles in breadth. The
level of the valley is naturally high, for from the ridge
of the Alleghany, as well as of the Laurel-hill, down
into this valley the way is by no means so long and
abrupt as that up the other slopes of both these mount-
ains. Really the word Glade denotes a meadow, past-
ure, or other open tract in the woods, naturally free of
timber, commonly not of great extent and lying about
large springs or along brooks. There is always much
high, thick grass in such places, which are unfavorable
to the growth of trees, because the seeds are either
swept away or rot faster than they can find lodgment
in the ground. Similar glades occur even more fre-
quently in the southern provinces and are tempting
spots. Ten or twelve years ago several families began
to take up land here, and now there are many settlers,
so that this part of the mountains is already as well
peopled as many tracts of the lower country. The land
is good and well watered. An acre at this time costs
35-45 shillings Pensylv. Current. It produces good
wheat and other crops, and on account of the continual
passing-through there is no difficulty in the sale of
them. Besides, they have near them the Potowmack
on the one side and the Ohio on the other. Several
times during the war, and even this spring, all the
wheat of the region that could be spared was sold and

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 235

sent down the Ohio to New Orleans in Louisiana and
to Mexico.

From our Anabaptist's we continued five miles
through a fine fertile country, of excellent meadow-
lands, and then seven miles partly good land, partly
dry or ridge woods. Last night there was ice, and yet
only ten days ago there was burning heat in this valley.
The road to the Ohio cuts across this valley and hence
there can be seen only a few of the plantations scattered
up and down.

Over Laurel-hill it is 12 miles from the last house
in the Glades to the first on the other side. A desolate
and wild mountain it is, its ridge and western slope
exhausting for horse and man ; not so much because
of steepness, as on account of the abominable rock-
fragments lying in the greatest confusion one over
another and over which the road proceeds. On this
mountain we fell in with two heavily loaded wagons,
carrying the baggage, women, and children of several
families travelling together. They lived far below on
the Ohio, at the Wabash ; during the war they were
taken captive by the Indians to Detroit, where they
passed several years until the peace. From Detroit
the road to their former settlement would have been
not more than 3-400 miles ; but because the English
thought it unsafe to allow these people to go among
the still unpacified Indian nations, they were obliged
to come from Detroit to Montreal by way of the
Ontario and the St. Lawrence, thence over Lake
Champlain and down the Hudson to Albany and New
York, and so to Philadelphia. This road, with that
still remaining, might be counted at least 3000 Eng-
lish miles. With them was a Captain Dalton, at one

236 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

time a hunter in the woods and later Governor and
Commandant of the post of St. Vincent on the Wa-
bash. It was distressing to hear what these people,
(living in the immeasurable forest so far removed from
the actual seat and source of all the hostilities), had
to tell of the frights and dangers they had passed
through ; and yet, returning thither, they were more
fortunate than many of their neighbors who had been
tomahawked on the spot. They travelled slowly and
camped every night in the woods. In the evening we
reached the first cabin on the western side of Laurel-
hill. This was the residence of Doctor Peter, a Ger-
man, who was absent looking for his pigs gone astray
in the woods. His wife, a good little old woman, and
energetic, gave our horses oats for their refreshment
and set before us mountain-tea and maple-sugar, which
as well as her bacon, whiskey, and cakes were the
products of her own land and industry.

We had been long coming down the mountain, and
from this place there still remained a few miles to go
until we reached the foot of the Laurel-hill. Here we
saw particularly extensive tracts of forest killed out
by fire. Barked and stripped of branches the high,
white, trunks stood naked, and among them there was
springing up an indescribably thick bush, not to be
found among the living, tall trees of the same region.
A man met us who was taking to Philadelphia some
500 pounds of ginseng-roots (Panax quinque folium L.*)
on two horses. He hoped to make a great profit be-
cause throughout the war little of this article was
gathered, and it was now demanded in quantity by cer-
tain Frenchmen. The hunters collect it incidentally in
their wanderings ; in these mountains the plant is still

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 237

common, but in the lower parts it has pretty well dis-
appeared. It grows in not too rich woods-earth in
mountain regions from Canada down to North and
South Carolina. Much is brought in to Fort Pitt. In-
dustrious people who went out for the purpose have
gathered as much as 60 pounds in one day. Three
pounds of the freshly gathered make only one pound
of the well dried ; which is sold by the gatherers for
one, one and a half, to two shillings Pensylv. Current,
commonly about a shilling sterling. The physicians in
America make no use of this root; and it is an article
of trade only with China, where the price is not so high
as it was, on account of the great adulteration. All
manner of similar roots were mixed in. The English
take very little of it. The taste of the fresh root is
very similar to that of our sweet-wood, or liquorice,
but is somewhat more aromatic. — In these mountains
also are gathered many pounds of the Senega (Poly-
gala Senega, L.) and of the Virginia snake- root (Ari-
stolochia Serpent. L.) ; the pound, dried, sells for two,
two and a half, and three shillings Pensylv. Current.

We breakfasted at a Captain's whither we had been
directed ; for along this road, and others like it in
America, one must not be deceived by the bare name
of taverns. The people keep tavern if they have any-
thing over and above what they need ; if not, the
traveller must look about for himself. The Captain
was not at all pleased that the neighborhood was be-
ginning to be so thickly settled. ' It spoils the hunt-
ing,' he said, ' makes quarrels ; and then they come and
want to collect taxes ; it is time some of us were leav-
ing and getting deeper into the country.' Hence we
supposed we should find a thickly settled region, but

238 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

had to go not less than seven miles before we came to
the next neighbor. Like most of the inhabitants of
these frontiers, he was of those whose chief occupation
is hunting, who from a preference for doing nothing,
and an old indifference to many conveniences, neglect
and dread the quieter and more certain pursuits of
agriculture. These hunters or ' backwoodmen ' live
very like the Indians and acquire similar ways of
thinking. They shun everything which appears to de-
mand of them law and order, dread anything which
breathes constraint. They hate the name of a Justice,
and yet they are not transgressors. Their object is
merely wild, altogether natural freedom, and hunting is
what pleases them. An insignificant cabin of unhewn
logs ; corn and a little wheat, a few cows and pigs, this
is all their riches but they need no more. They get
game from the woods ; skins bring them in whiskey and
clothes, which they do not care for of a costly sort.
Their habitual costume is a ' rifle-shirt,' or shirt of
fringed linen ; instead of stockings they wear Indian
leggings ; their shoes they make themselves for the
most part. When they go out to hunt they take with
them a blanket, some salt, and a few pounds of meal
of which they bake rough cakes in the ashes ; for the
rest they live on the game they kill. Thus they pass
10-20 days in the woods ; wander far around ; shoot
whatever appears ; take only the skins, the tongues,
and some venison back with them on their horses to
their cabins, where the meat is smoked and dried ; the
rest is left lying in the woods. They look upon the
wilderness as their home and the wild as their pos-
session ; and so by this wandering, uncertain way of
life, of which they are vastly fond, they become in-

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 239

different to all social ties, and do not like many neigh-
bors about them, who by scaring off the game are a
nuisance besides. They are often lucky on the hunt
and bring back great freight of furs, the proceeds of
which are very handsome. Uncompanionable and
truculent as this sort of men appear to be, and how-
ever they seem half-savage and, by their manner of
life, proof against the finer feelings, one is quite safe
among them and well treated ; they have their own
way of being courteous and agreeable which not every-
body would take to be what it is. Their little house-
keeping is, for their situation, neat ; and their wives
and children are content in their solitudes where for
the most part they spend the time in idleness.*

Chesnut-ridge was still before us, which is tedious
not for its height but for the stoniness of the road. This
ridge appears to be scarcely more than the continued
declivity of the Laurel-hill range, its height from the
east being very inconsiderable. Indeed there would be
no great error in regarding the Alleghany and Laurel-
hill (with the Dry Ridge to the east of the first, and
Chesnut-hill to the west of the second) as forming
together in basis one and the same great range of
mountains, near 60 English miles in breadth from east
to west. The rock of all these mountains, on their
west side, is still the laminated sand-stone; but here
commonly more of a greyish tint. On the roads
through these immense forests the many fallen trees
are every moment a disagreeable hindrance, for no-
body removes them out of the way, and one must go

* For more in this regard, read St. John's Letters ; the 3rd
letter.

240 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

over or around as well as one can. Those inhabitants
more familiar with the country trouble themselves verv

w *

little about beaten roads. Through the woods, for the
most part clear of undergrowth ; guided by the sun,
the course of the streams, the appearance of the trees,
they travel straight to the place they are going and
seldom lose their way. In the less travelled regions
and along roads leading to remote dwellings or other
places, the way is marked by long, broad cuts in the
trees ; the white wood is even to be discerned at night.
This method was originally adopted from fear of
getting lost in the forest. Roads thus marked are
called ' blazed paths.'

In the afternoon we arrived at the house and mill of
a Colonel Berry. A few miles farther on, at a Cap-
tain's, we asked quarters for the night, but he having
nothing for man or beast directed us a mile beyond to
Salisbury or Millerstown. This town of the future
consists at this time of one house only, where we had
the good fortune to be taken in, the owner first pro-
testing at length that the Captain had called his house
a tavern when he had no provisions. The region has
been settled only 8-10 years; was it older most of the
people would not have been frightened off by the last
war. Several persons are living in the neighborhood
who have been scalped by the Indians ; when these
make hasty attacks or are in dread of resistance, they
often do not take the time to see whether the scalped
is actually dead, caring only for the sign of victory,
snatched hurriedly. We were shown a girl whose
scalp-marks after six years were not completely cured ;
doubtless from lack of good treatment.

From Millerstown it is still 32 miles to the Ohio —

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 241

Many deserted cabins stand by the way, the people not
yet returned, having fled from the Indians. The
country continues hilly and rough, but the hills are but
low and wavy ; the landscape somewhat more open and
not at all unpleasing; the soil almost everywhere very
good. The Laurel-hill passed, everything takes on a
better and more fertile aspect, in comparison with the
land on the east side of the mountains. An observa-
tion which strikes everyone coming thence.

We took breakfast at a house where several children
lay very ill of a malignant pox ; this year the disease
has raged in these parts and carried off many young
people. Thence 10 miles along the ridge of a barren
hill, without seeing a cabin ; but there are several in
the valleys. On account of the dryness the road has
been carried along the ridges, and here, as often else-
where, is very tedious for being so dry and monoto-
nous ; scarcely a flower even is to be seen. Descending
a steep mountain we came to

Turkey Creek Settlement, in a fine but narrow valley.
Our host here, as often happens in the mountains, gave
our horses unthreshed oats in bundles ; in this way
there is a saving of trouble, the horses indeed losing
a little but not the host. — There are a good many houses
here. Again up a steep mountain, and seven miles
through nothing but woods. The last three miles the
country was a little more settled. Sundry brooks are
to be crossed, named according to their distance from
Fort Pitt, as Six-Mile, Four-Mile, and Two-Mile
Branch. From the last the road lay along the Alle-
ghany river. It was already dusk, but the sky was
clear, and the landscape open and charming ; to which
contributed no little the prospect of a beautiful stream,
16

242 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the freedom from incessantly troublesome woods, and
the pleasure of having reached the end proposed. In
Pittsburg we were directed to the best inn, a small
wooden cabin set askew by the Monongahela, its ex-
terior promising little ; but seeing several well dressed
men and ladies adorned we were not discouraged.
Not we but our vehicle had the honor of being the first
object of their curiosity, for we had come the whole
way in a two-wheeled chaise, + what hitherto had been
regarded as next to impossible. Thus we did not think
it at all strange if, on passing a house in the mountains,
the mother called her children together in consterna-
tion to show them what they had never before seen in
their lives — a chaise.

In this mountain-journey one misses what might be
probably expected, finding no extraordinary works of
nature, cataracts, rock-peaks, or abysses. And so I
was disappointed with what I had seen, because from
what I had been told by the Americans I looked for
great things. Only those who have seen no others speak
of the Blue Mountains as a non plus ultra. From
Carlisle it is not only continual forest, but a very
monotonous forest, there being little variety among
the trees. For plants, the best season was over, but
along the dry roads we found not so many as we
could wish, and we could not explore all the swamps.
Indeed, there are very few birds to be seen, and all
wild animals are frightened off by the noise of the
passenger. We saw but one young bear which quite
without warning climbed down a tree on to the road
like a clown, and hurriedly made off. We heard here
and there of rattlesnakes, ' copper-bellies/ and moc-
assins (which being smaller and making no noise are

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 243

more dangerous) but saw not one. — The commonest
wild animal is the Virginia deer ; the Grey Moose, very
similar to the European stag, has also been seen in
these woods, but is more numerous in Canada. The
black moose, or elk, is seen here but very rarely.

Fort Pitt, formerly Fort du Quesne, lies in latitude
40° 31' 44", about five degrees west of Philadelphia,
on a point of land where the Monongahela and the
Alleghany unite, both of them considerable streams,
and thence under the name of the Ohio proceed
through the western country to the Mississippi. After
this place was transferred in the war before the last to
England, and with it the whole immense tract lying
between the mountains and the Mississippi, in the year
1760 there was first settled near the Fort a little town,
called Pittsburg in honor of the then minister. Before
that time, under the French, only a few hunters and
Indian traders lived there. In the year 1763 the In-
dians began a bloody war against the British colonies,
and attacked this region among others ; the inhabitants,
still few in number, had to leave their houses and take
refuge in the fort, and the new town was given over
to the enemy by whom it was entirely destroyed. Two
years afterwards the place Pittsburg was re-estab-
lished, and more regularly than before, on the eastern
bank of the Monongahela some 300 yards from the
Fort ; and numbers at this time perhaps 60 wooden
houses and cabins, in which live something more than
100 families, for by the outbreak of the last war the
growth of the place, beginning to be rapid, was hin-
dered. The first stone house was built this summer,
but soon many good buildings may be seen, because
the place reasonably expects to grow large and con-

244 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

siderable with the passage of time — Of public houses
of worship or of justice there are none as yet. How-
ever a German preacher lives there, who ministers to
all of the faith ; and the state of Pensylvania, as is
customary in this country, sends hither a Judge once
or twice a year to administer the law- -The inhabitants
are still poor, as circumstances are at present ; but also
extremely inactive and idle ; so much so that they are
recalcitrant when given work and opportunity to earn
money, for which, however, they hanker. There was
general complaint in this respect and we also found it
the case that every trifling thing made here is dearer
than at Philadelphia even ; that the people here do not
grow rich by industry and fair prices but prefer rather
to deal extortionately with strangers and travellers ;
and shunning work charge the more for it, their com-
fortable sloth being interrupted. They gained their
living hitherto by farming and trafficking in skins and
furs. But now that considerable settlements are be-
ginning farther down the Ohio which continually in-
crease by the great number of people daily going
thither, they find trade very profitable and what is to
be gained by catering to those passing through. How-
ever little to be regarded the place is now, from its
advantageous site it must be that Pittsburg will in the
future become an important depot for the inland trade.
The Ohio, (la belle riviere) is the only great river in
the whole extensive western country between the
northern lakes, the mountains, and the Mississippi,
receiving all other rivers into itself and flowing into
the Mississippi (at 36° 43') after a course, reckoned
from this place, of 1188 English miles. Of its two
chief branches the Alleghany comes from high up

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 245

towards the Canadian country, and through it (by
Venango and through sundry small streams) there is
opened up a good connection with the Canadian lakes.
Almost every season, very dry ones alone excepted,
boats of 2-3 ft. draught can go up the Alleghany and
into French Creek, and from thence there is but a
short portage to Lake Erie.* Down the Alleghany
such boats can make 50-60-100 miles a day. It has
even been estimated that goods and wares may be
brought hither (and expedited further) by the river
Lawrence and the Canadian lakes as profitably as by
the land road from Pensylvania or Maryland. The
Monongahela comes up from the South along the
frontier mountains of Virginia, and thus makes here,
where the Alleghany joins it, the most convenient
place for a staples-depot. +

The mountains perfectly well admit of very con-
venient land routes being established in time for the
furtherance of the trade with Philadelphia and Balti-
more, but the road may be very much shortened by
streams f on both sides the mountains. At present
there is paid 40-50 shillings Pensylv. freightage the
hundredweight from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, a dis-
tance of 320 English miles ; but this is diminished if
the waggoners find a return freight. The number of
considerable streams which net the extensive country

* Only a mile of land-passage, or portage, separates the
Cayahoga river, (which flows into Lake Erie and through it
into the St. Lawrence) from the Muskingum which falls into
the Ohio ; and so, but for that inconsiderable space, the Gulf
of Mexico is joined with the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

t From where the Potomack ceases to be navigable to the
nearest navigable arm of the Ohio it is only 60 miles.

246 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

from the great Canadian lakes as far as the western
regions of both the Carolinas, (the most of them bear-
ing ladings of 50 tons and more), almost without ex-
ception fall into the Ohio, and so facilitate communi-
cation between the remotest limits of that country.
This wealth of navigable waters inland will indeed
prevent Pittsburg from drawing to itself exclusively
the trade of the western country, as many are apt to
think, but it will always have the greater part of that
trade among other favorable conditions. In a country
of so many rivers no one place can expect to have the
exclusive trade, particularly if the people of these
frontier regions are themselves to become engaged in
trade, setting up their own little warehouses ; as is the
case in Virginia, which province has no especially
large commercial town for the reason that nearly all
the planters living as they do close by navigable streams
have built their own wharves and store-houses ; which
however is to be explained by other circumstances and
cannot be so generally imitated here.

A part of the northern fur-trade cannot escape this
place, (if the friendship of the Indians can be as-
sured) although New York has greater hopes in that
regard, and may secure the heaviest part of the trade
through the most convenient channel of the rivers
Oneyda, Mohawk, and Hudson. — From Pittsburg
down the Ohio and the Mississippi the way is long,
but the journey is often made in 14 days from here to
New Orleans at the mouth of the Mississippi. The
current of the Ohio is swift and supports great
burthens in the spring and in the fall. And this will
be the easiest, indeed the only road for the future ex-
port of the produce of these mountain parts.

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 247

The first French fort, which was only a stockade
and stood directly in the angle between the rivers, has
long since fallen to ruin. Under the English govern-
ment a spacious work of five bastions, with wall and
moat, was begun, but was not yet finished when the
last British garrison came away in the year 1774. At
that time peace had long prevailed with all the Indian
nations ; hence this and other fortified places, on the
Ohio, the Wabash, the Illinois, and the Mississippi,
were regarded as useless and the garrisons withdrawn.
The Americans, to whom this fort was very opportune
in the last war, have been at no further cost in its
equipment, but on account of the Indians have always
kept a garrison there, which just at this time is on the
point of being taken away. From its situation the fort
can be serviceable only against the Indians ; for it can
be quite commanded from several neighboring hills,
but especially from a high hill standing above the fort
on the other side of the Monongahela, at this point only
some 1 200 ft. wide ; and it is even said that the Indians
have shot their arrows from this hill quite into the fort.

Another, smaller fort stood 30 miles below at Mac-
intosh, and still another at Wheeling. The garrisons
maintained there helped to support this place and even
enlivened it, for during the war there were balls, plays,
concerts, and comedies here, 400 miles west of the
ocean. Therefore the Pittsburg ladies cannot but be»-
hold with troubled hearts the withdrawal of so many
fine gentlemen, and the cessation of so many diversions.

The Alleghany and Monongahela come together al-
most at a right angle. The point of land between them
is a sand-hill built up by their alluvion, and containing
polished pebbles, with the same reddish sand as that

248 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

of the mountains hereabout. The banks are 20-30 ft.
high above the water ; but this deep channel fills in the
spring and autumn, and at times the river overflows.
At such times, it is said, a frigate of 20 guns can pass
clear of all obstacles down the river, which then has
a depth of nearly 25 ft. throughout ; the swiftness of
the current is such that boats can descend about 100
miles in a day. There are so far but two wells, 35 ft.
in depth, at this place, and they are often short of
water. The bed of both rivers at one time lay much
higher, over what is now dry and cultivated land.
Two or three points of land may be observed rising
one above the other, of precisely the shape and direc-
tion of the point at this time washed by the rivers. Of
these, Grant's-hill is the hindmost, half a mile off from
the river. And so there may be distinguished very
clearly the gradations of the originally higher-lying
channels. — Both streams were at this time so shallow
that at many places one could ride through them.

The lowness of the water and our brief stay pre-
vented me from seeing anything of the fishes of the
region. It is said, and with great probability, that the
streams rising on the west side of the mountains, and
through the Mississippi associated with the Gulf of
Mexico, have but few species of fishes in common with
the rivers which flow from the east side into the ocean.
They have a sort of sturgeons or horn-fish which is
described as different from that seen in the Delaware
and the Hudson.* I was told of large trouts and pikes
which are similar to others of that kind. The yellow
perch is said to be found here. A sort of cat-fish, very

* See Carver's Travels.

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 249

like the common cat-fish of the Delaware, (Silurus
catus L.), is caught weighing 30-50 pounds; some
people even pretend to have seen them lower down
the river weighing as much as 80-100 pounds.*

A peculiar turtle, which I could not get a sight of,
keeps in the Ohio and its tributaries. It is called the
softshell'd, and again the green turtle. The higher
and middle part of the shell is hard, but the edges are
said to be soft and pliable ; and the whole shell may be
cooked to a jelly. f The hind-feet are described as
webbed, as with the sea-turtle, the fore-feet being
supplied with digitals, and the flesh very good to eat.
Also the snapping-turtle is found in the waters of the
Ohio. This variety of turtle, little known in Europe,
is very common on the eastern coast of America, par-
ticularly in the middle provinces. It lives in swamps,
and on the banks of little streams as well salt as fresh ;
swims, but also goes on land ; I myself found one
near New York on a dry hill in the woods. It is dis-
tinguished from all others of its kind by the sharp
indentations on the hinder edge of its dirty black shell ;
by the breast-bone which does not, as with other
turtles, form a shield wholly covering the under part,
but has the shape of a broad cross ; and finally by its
uncommonly long tail.J The feet are 4-5 inches in

* Carver mentions the cat-fish in the Mississippi, but of a
weight only of five or six pounds.

t So probably the same indeterminate species as that found
by Catesby on the Savannah river, which sodden over and
over is said to become soft and edible, although the shell be-
fore cooking appears as hard as that of other kinds. See,
Schneider's Naturgeschichte der Schildkrotcn, p. 347.

± With regard to the indented hinder shell and the long tail

250 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

length ; the long neck can be shortened at will or ex-
tended with great rapidity. It snaps impatiently at
whatever is held before it, at the same time supporting
itself on its hind-feet, as if to venture a leap ; and from
this singularity it gets its name. What it has once
got hold of with its sharp nib it does not easily let go,
so long as it has any strength. It is eaten, as are al-
most all the varieties of turtle ; and found weighing
2-3-4 pounds. — Still other sorts of the American land
and swamp turtles are to be seen here.*

this snapping-turtle appears to be most like the Testudo ser-
pentina L.; but the singularly formed breast-shield makes it a
species apart. A more exact description of the dry specimen
will be given elsewhere. Its method of defence it appears to
have in common with the Test, ferox. See, Schneider's Natur-
geschichte der Schildkroten, 333.

* Besides the soft-shelled and snapping-turtles mentioned,
the middle colonies of America (and probably the others)
have three other sorts of turtles, all of which are found fre-
quently about New York and Philadelphia. The first is that
described by Dr. Bloch as a new species, under the name of
Box-Turtle, Dosen-Schildkrote, (in Beobacht. der Gesellsch.
Naturf. Freunde zu Berlin, Bd. i, istes Stuck), which is par-
ticularly distinguished by the movable breast-shield, divided
in the middle, and adapted for the complete closing of the
upper shell — The two others have immovable breast-shields
closely attached to the upper armor by bony continuations of
the middle side-shell ; but in several ways are distinct from
each other — to mention only the most striking differences,
(there will be better opportunity elsewhere for an exact and
circumstantial comparison), in the second species the evenly
arched upper shell is quite smooth, brown along the back, and
at the fore-edges marked with a narrow black and a broader
yellow border, likewise smooth, from which three yellow
streaks run over the back. The side-shell is blackish brown,
the breast-shield white. This I believe to be a new species.

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 251

The whole region about Fort Pitt is hilly, but these
are fertile hills, of good soil, excellent meadows, and

Its habitat is in swamps. The third sort is in coloring simi-
lar to the first, the upper armor flecked brown and yellow, a
keel-shaped elevation along the middle of the back; but all
three varieties are lozenge-streaked, with shading at the mid-
dle of the figure. The breast-shield of the third is white; but
the seams of the different parts of the shell are arranged un-
like those of the second. Its habitat is preferably the creeks
and streams near the coast; this is probably the Test. Caro-
lina L.? — These three distinct species are often confused
under the name Terrapins, but especially the two first — The
coloring and distinctive marks of the young of these turtles
seem to me to be very variable, and likely this is often the
cause of many errors in determining the species where so
little is accurately known of the several characteristics.
Hence it would redound to the credit of the North American
naturalists if they gave attention to the history of these ani-
mals of which, in the southern provinces alone, they have
examples continually before them. I am convinced that still
other new species may be found in the more southern prov-
inces of North America or at least corrections of former ob-
servations might be made. In addition, as material for a de-
sirable contribution to the history of the turtle, there appear
every summer in America the three West Indian sea-turtles,
the Green, the Hawk's-bill and the Loggerhead. And finally,
there is seen on the American coast the Trunk-turtle (Test,
coriacea L.). In August 1779 one of this sort was taken in
the harbor of Rhode Island; it was already cut up when I
got news of it. It weighed almost 600 pounds, and from the
point of the head to the tail was five and a half feet long.
The shell was covered with a tight, smooth, blackish skin, not
too firmly stretched to be moved about here and there. Along
the back there were five raised callosities, dividing the surface
into flat compartments. In the circumstances at that time this
was a welcome catch ; the meat was dispensed in pounds at a
shilling sterling and was devoured, and although uncommonly
fat the taste of it was much inferior to that of the green
turtle.

252 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

flourishing forest-growth. This not being so generally
the case to the east of the mountains, every stranger
coming hither finds the western country pleasanter and
more to be desired. Over against Pittsburg land is al-
ready farmed and there are divers dwellings along the
high ridge of the steep hill looking towards the Mo-
nongahela. At the foot of this hill marble is found,
probably resting upon rock of a gneiss species. This
marble is blueish, becoming paler higher up the mount-
ain. At the same time it is harder, denser, and of a
finer grain than the common limestone, similar to it in
color, on the east side of the mountains. Along with
it occurs a fine and beautiful liver-colored marble. It
is said that lime burnt of it does not absorb moisture
so easily or fall away so rapidly in the air ; the reason
likely is that it is not thoroughly burnt, since as yet
there is nothing known in America of adequate lime-
furnaces. Above the marble lies a coarse slate, which
higher up the mountain becomes finer and passes into
a strong vein of the most beautiful coals, in turn
covered with a stratum of coarse clayey slate, white or
variegated in color. There follows then, almost to the
ridge of the mountain, a deep bed of laminated and
very micaceous sand-stone.

The coal-bed mentioned, midway of the hill or
mountain, is so much the more noteworthy because
elsewhere coals are to be dug for at a depth, and is
proof of what great changes have taken place in the
surface of this region. This appearance proves of it-
self that America must be older than it should seem to
be by the arbitrary assumptions of more than one illus-
trious man ; for years must pass before so wide a
stratum of coal is formed, (according to the general

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 253

opinion, from plant-mould accumulated and changed),
and this again covered with such deep layers of other
mineral species ; and how many more years would still
be requisite for a stream to sink its channel, below this
coal-stratum, 60-80 ft. deeper? — The singularity of
this coal-bed is an item of great convenience to the
inhabitants. The coals dug out are merely poured into
a trench furrowed in the steep wall of the mountain,
and thence rolled down to the edge of the river, where
they are immediately taken in by the boats lying ready.
The vein of these coals is 10-12-18 ft. wide, and ex-
tends throughout the length of the mountain. The
coals are clean, light, and glistening, not so glassy as
those of Wyoming, but more combustible and without
any disagreeable smell. A part of the fuel for the
garrison having been taken from this mountain, the
vein has been worked a considerable distance ; but for
convenience fresh spots are continually being trenched.
Moreover, the coals are the property of the land-
owners, who, for the trifling payment of a penny the
bushel, allow any one to fetch them away. The great
supply will be uncommonly advantageous in the future
settlement of this region, contributing as it will to the
more general cultivation of the land, less wood having
to be reserved. Also the use of the minerals here will
be facilitated, and these coals will even form a con-
siderable article for export. But coal is found not only
here but in almost every hill on both sides the Ohio
throughout the western country, and most of the
mountain valleys contain coal-beds.

But with other minerals also are these remote regions
richly and variously supplied. Iron and lead are found
at many places near the Ohio and its tributaries. Lead

254 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

occurs frequently at the surface ; on the Siotto, 400
miles below Pittsburg, there is great plenty of it ; from
this and other places similar the Indians fetch their
supply for war and the hunt ; they fuse out the ore
merely in their common fires. Here and there speci-
mens of copper * have been found, and as the story is,
of silver also.

Petroleum occurs in several ways ; but there is a
spring in particular, near Alleghany Creek 90 miles
from here, which is heavily saturated with it, and the
broad creek is for a \long distance covered with the
swimming oil. In the neighborhood of the Crossings,
on the Youghiagany (commonly called the Yach) a
mine is worked which is said to contain silver and
lead. The owners are the Messrs. Downer and
Lynch. A silversmith perseveres there, who sells the
people silver utensils ostensibly fabricated from this
domestic ore. But according to precise accounts this
artful silversmith appears to be using the gullible
country people for his own advantage. — Generally
speaking, with the passage of time there must and will
be discovered more and more on American soil not
only the treasures of the earth but everything neces-
sary for trade, crafts, and household economy. For,
little as is known of America there is already ground
for the assertion that nothing essential is lacking, and
there is good hope of finding what has not yet been
discovered.

One of the greatest gifts of nature, for the immense
tracts of country lying this side the mountains, is the

* According to Carver this metal appears most frequently
about Lake Superior.

FROM CARLISLE TO THE OHIO 255

salt-springs, already found at sundry places. It is re-
markable that in the whole of eastern North America,
or between the Atlantic ocean and the mountains, no
traces of these have so far appeared. There are a few
dirty salt-spots, or plashes, of no great importance, (at
the foot of the more easterly mountains and among
the mountains), which taste mildly of salt and in warm
weather show a white skim. Wild animals and do-
mestic cattle are the first to find these out, and they
like to keep near them. On the road from Pittsburg
to Virginia there is, near a brook, a salt-spring from
which a good quantity of salt has been boiled, but this
spring is often overflowed, and the water fouled and
made unusable for some time together. The attempt
was made to divert the spring and dig it out elsewhere,
and it was very nearly ruined in consequence. How-
ever, other improvements may be made, or by refining
the salt obtained the profits may be increased. Be-
tween here and Lake Erie, at a distance of some 60-70
miles, there are many salt-licks, which is the name
given such spots, because the buffalo and deer are ac-
customed to lick up the crystallized salt. It is said the
Indians have long obtained their salt from such places,*
although the use of it is not universal among them.
For the supply of the mountains and adjacent regions,
salt might still be fetched from the coast, whither it
is brought partly from Europe, partly from Tortuga
and other of the West India islands. But with the in-
creasing population of the more remote interior parts
of this vast country, it would be no slight incon-

* By others it is asserted that the Indian nations never used
kitchen-salt until they learned the custom of the Europeans.

256 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

venience to bring so necessary an article 1000 miles
and more from the coast. This difficulty will now be
obviated through the use of the salt-springs so numer-
ous in the interior of the country. The new colony at
Kentucky has already set up its own salt-boiling es-
tablishments, and thus supplies itself in greatest part
with the article, which will be of all the more im-
portance so soon as they can obtain it in sufficient
quantity to make a more profitable use of their surplus
of meat.

Cfte (HBestern Countrp, jTtontier

The Ohio country, between the mountains and the
Mississippi, or what is commonly called ' the West
country,' is estimated at 15-20,000 English square
miles. But by this is understood especially that tract
of country from the Ohio south ; for the whole extent
of the western territory, which by the last treaty of
peace is relinquished to the United States, between the
river St. Croix, the Lake of the Woods, the Missis-
sippi, and the Ohio, embraces some 400,000 English
square miles of which however almost the fifth part
is to be reckoned out, as included in the immense in-
land lakes and other waters.* All settlements which

* By the latest survey of the United States, of the year 1785,
it is stated that the territory of the Republic amounts to about
1,000,000 English square miles, containing 640 million acres of
land. From this deduct 51,000,000 acres for water surface and
there remain 589,000,000. That portion of the United States
to the west of Pensylvania, from the river St. Croix to the
north-western part of the Lake of the Woods ; thence by the
Mississippi to the mouth of the Ohio on the west, thence along
the southern side of the Ohio to Pensylvania, embraces 411,000
square miles, estimated to contain 263,040,000 acres. Deduct-
ing 43,040,000 for water surface there remain 220,000,000. Of
this tract the officers and soldiers of the establishment have
received 150,000 acres, and other troops serving in the last war
414,720 acres. 80,640 acres are appropriated for the mainte-
nance of public schools. The waters lying north-west of the
Ohio, but included in the territory of the United States, cover
43,040,000 acres, of which Lake Superior 21,952,780 acres, and

17

258 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

so far have been made by Europeans in the actual
western country are confined almost wholly to the
south and east sides of the Ohio. Beyond, that is to
say on the northern and western banks of the Ohio
and the Alleghany, and as far as the neighborhood of
the Canadian lakes, the Mississippi, and the Illinois,
there are (or were) no fixed establishments as yet.
All that country is still regarded as in the possession
of several Indian nations, and as such is stubbornly
claimed by them and murderously defended against
any actual or prospective encroachments. They were
willing to sell absolutely none of this land, so as to
preserve their hunting range from any further cur-
tailment than is already the case.* The land lying to

Lake Michigan 10,368,000. The total of the waters found
within the limits of the 13 United States amounts to 7,960,000
acres, therefore the total water surface of the country is
51,000,000 acres. Lake Ontario alone contains 2,390,000 acres.
Hamb. Polit. Journal, October, 1786. An acre of land contains
43,600 English feet in the square. An English square mile 640
English acres.

* However, at the time of my visit there were already sev-
eral land-surveyors at Pittsburg who were making prepara-
tions to go down the river in order to take up land partly on
the east side of the Ohio, and partly on the west or Indian
side. Their business is to seek out good land at the expense
of adventuring companies, survey it, mark the lines, and make
notes. These companies or private speculators buy the land
of the state of Virginia, expecting to sell it or lease it to in-
dividuals. The land-surveyor has his travelling expenses paid,
and receives besides a certain portion of the land surveyed.
Mr. Van Deering has commissions to survey 300,000 acres, of
which, as he says, 6000 fall to him. All who go out surveying
or looking for land on the west side of the Ohio must be care-
ful to avoid meeting any Indians, who forbid absolutely all
land-surveying on this side, and would kill any one they found

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 259

the south and east of the Ohio has been in part ceded
by them through treaty or sale, and in part has been
merely usurped by Europeans. At the beginning, in-
deed, the limits of the several colonies were marked
off by the mother country ; but with the growth of the
colonies the territory so fixed was to be conquered
from the Indians or bought of them from time to
time, they having never given up their rights and
claims to suzerainty. A part of the land assigned
by Penn's charter to the state of Pensylvania is in-
cluded in this Indian territory and is still in their
possession. The boundary of Philadelphia extends
60 miles west and north-west of Pittsburg, and
embraces therefore a considerable tract on the north
side of the Ohio and the Alleghany. On the part of
Pensylvania there is little disposition to purchase this
land by munificent gifts, and the Indians are as little
inclined to fling it away ; and thus it cannot be brought
into cultivation except through the shedding of blood
and the continual unrest of the settlers first established
there. And after a time this will be the case also with
the extensive country lying to the north and west of
the Ohio, given over to the United States by Great
Britain under the last treaty but without the privity
and consent of the Indian nations interested, who
therefore feel themselves in no way bound to regard
that treaty and withdraw from their forests and hunt-
ing grounds, unable or unwilling to comprehend how
any foreign power has the right to appropriate to

there. — These journeys are made in canoes or flats, and all
necessaries must be taken along, since there can be no de-
pendence on anything but what is found in the woods ; there-
fore a good hunter is an indispensable member of the party.

260 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

others what they are in possession of by inheritance
from their remote ancestors. Hence they will for a
long time offer resistance as much as in them lies, and
even now they lose no opportunity of cutting off all
who venture on the north and west banks of the Ohio,
suspected as coming in the quality of land-seekers +
and surveyors.* However, the Congress has already
determined upon a division of this still unpossessed
land which, falling to the Congress under the treaty
and lying beyond the limits of the old provinces as
hitherto fixed, is called Congress-land. From this tract
will be taken the bounty-lands for the troops of the
states of Man-land, Delaware, Jersey, Connecticut,
Rhode-Island, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire ;
the remaining states have enough waste land of their
own for the purpose. By a resolution of the Congress f
this soldiers' land is to form a new state of itself, in-
cluding all that country from the Big Miami up to
Lake Erie, with Pensylvania to the east and the Ohio
to the south-east, a tract nearly as large as Pensylvania.
So has the Congress declared, and there is only lacking
the consent and the cession of the Indians.

Among all those settlements begun to the west of
the mountains, none hastens more swiftly to comple-

* According to the latest accounts from America (of the
year 1786) the Indians are letting it be known, by numerous
murders committed along the frontiers, that they are unwill-
ing their lands should come into the possession of the Ameri-
cans. They will not be bound by treaties between England
and the United States, and they will in no way cede their land.

t New and remarkable resolutions of the Congress touching
the establishment and setting-off of ten new states, from the
whole of the western country, are to be found in Appendix
No. 2.

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 261

tion or is more attentively regarded by the whole of
America than the new colony at Kentucky. I make no
scruple therefore to set down here the information
regarding this colony which I was able to assemble at
Pittsburg. Before the war and even during it, but
altogether within the space of a few years, nearly
20,000 people had gradually removed from the frontier
regions over the mountains to help increase the planta-
tions there ; and now that the war is ended numbers
of people are going thither daily and by every road ;
we met them everywhere. This general emigration
is to be explained in several ways ; partly by the desire
to escape the taxes imposed during the war and still
increasing ; again, a propensity for a free and un-
restricted mode of life, fear of punishment and of the
law, necessity or the spirit of adventure, but chiefly
from the honest purpose of providing for growing
families. The owner of a small estate nearer the coast
sells it, and with the proceeds he can purchase 6-8-10
times as much land beyond the mountains, and is able
to leave to each of his children as much as he him-
self formerly possessed, having first by their help
brought the land into an arable state.

The Kentucky is a large river ; it takes its rise in
the Alleghany mountains under the name of Warrior's
Branch, is joined by several other streams, and after
a course of more than 400 miles unites with the Ohio,
being 200 yards wide at the point of junction. Its
current is throughout wide and deep and not rapid.
Along its banks everywhere there is said to be the
best land, the woods shading them yielding the finest
timber. From this stream the whole extensive colony
takes its name, but about its mouth, from the generally

262 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

tempting circumstances, the settlement is thickest and
most numerous. As is the case commonly, the first
houses of these colonists are merely of logs laid one
over another, which however keep off the bullets of
the Indians, against whom, so far, the settlers must be
continually on their guard.

Among the first to settle there, a certain Hender-
son + won for himself a particular regard, but he
brought them to the observance of a few general laws,
and made the beginnings of a separate republican or-
ganization ; and in the course of time it will be a ques-
tion whether or not they will recognize the authority of
the state of Virginia in whose jurisdiction they lie.*
The rapid growth of the population in these farther re-
gions is already causing vigilance and anxiety in the old
provinces. Thus Pensylvania has made a law by which
it is declared high treason for any one soever, in the
western territory of the province, to go about estab-
lishing independent communities. But it is, and will
continue to be difficult for the Congress or the individ-
ual states to keep dependent these beginning western
states, which having no great advantage to expect
from the United States will never be inclined to give

* An English journal of this year, 1785, gives the following
news : Extract of a letter from Danville in Kentucky, May 31,
1785 — "Our second Assembly has just opened. It is decided
" to ask of the state of Virginia a formal Act of Separation.
" Sundry laws of the Virginia Assembly, which are very bur-
" densome to this region, compel us to adopt this measure
" earlier than would have otherwise happened, although in the
" end it may be the better for us. This new state is to be
"called the Commonwealth of Kentucky; and at the present
" time contains by estimation 30,000 souls ; but before the
" separation takes place the number will be vastly increased."

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 263

heed to their commands and help bear their burdens.
These putative subjects will, so soon as they feel them-
selves strong enough, without doubt follow the ex-
ample of the mother-colonies, and desire to be and be
as independent. And have they not as much right? —
They are separated by extensive and impracticable
mountains, and their trading-interests will still more
set them apart. — Plans are made already for the es-
tablishment of several towns in Kentucky. The Ohio-
Falls, or rapids, are mentioned as a particularly ad-
vantageous site.* This is not really a water-fall, but
only a place where the river forces through rocks and
shallows with such vehemence that laden vessels can-
not be taken through ; although with high water the
difficulty is not so great. The boats are here commonly
lightened and a part of the cargo sent forward a cer-
tain distance by land to be taken on again below the
falls. And so here, it is believed, there will arise of
itself a ware-house and trading-town for commodities
coming down the river.

But many of these new colonists, even after they
have come half across America, find no abiding place
in Kentucky ; some of these restless people, I am told,
push on farther to the Illinois, the Wabash, and the
Mississippi, and there mingle with what still remains
of the French colonists. These incessant emigrations,

* A detailed account in regard to the country, the rapids,
and the trade of the Ohio is to be found in Thomas Hutchins'
Topographical description of the river Ohio, Kenhawa, Sioto,
Cherokee, Wabash, Illinois, Mississippi &c. London 1778. 8.
He travelled through these parts before the war, under orders
from the British government, and his is the best and only
map + of that country.

264 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

of which there will be no end so long as land is to
be had for little or nothing, hinder the taking up of
manufactures in the colonies ; for it is more befitting
the spirit of this population, and that of all America,
to support themselves on their own land necessitously
but with little work, than to live better continually em-
ployed for wages. This roving about, this propensity
for an independent life in the remotest parts, is not
without its advantages to those more regular and in-
dustrious classes of people who take the places of the
emigrants and carry on what has been left unfinished
by them.* These farthest colonists are rough and un-

* The first residents, or planters, in Pensylvania, who came
over from Europe, desired to introduce at once the most
finished manner of cultivating the land, according to the Eng-
lish fashion, and began the preparation of little tracts, making
them absolutely clean with unspeakable trouble and waste of
time. There was to be not a stump, stone, or thorn left on the
land. The small area which in this way they were able to
subdue was, notwithstanding the newness and fertility of the
soil, insufficient to supply them with the expected or the neces-
sary maintenance. Thus many allowed themselves to be dis-
couraged and returned to Europe where they found fewer
difficulties and more productive harvests for their work. But
others who had no place in Europe to retire to, and through
poverty were compelled to attempt anything, plowed and
sowed the land, between the stumps or among the trees but
recently killed. The rich and easily worked surface returned
a better harvest than they expected, and richly repaid the
slight labor spent upon it. Thenceforward this mode of culti-
vation was generally adopted and those who settle in the
farther regions still go about their farming in that way; and
some of them do no more, but give up their plantations, thus
roughly begun, to other families, and move on to repeat the
process elsewhere. — " In Pensylvania the impulse still con-
" tinues to migrate to the southern and western country."
Hamb. polit. Journ. May 1786.

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 265

lettered, but by mettle and intrepidity they make up
for what, in the stern conditions, must perhaps be
lacking in the items of good manners, peaceableness,
order, and the social virtues. Hardened by their man-
ner of life and not accustomed to particular comforts,
they are best adapted to offer resistance on the occa-
sions of inroads by hostile Indians ; and often the re-
mote countryman thanks them for the safety and quiet
in which he farms his acres.

The trade of these new colonies will be perhaps not
inconsiderable after a time. The raw products of their
soil, for the most part good, must supply them with
what they need from abroad. The former they will
send down stream, and the latter they will most con-
veniently have brought them from above. For the
navigation up the Mississippi and the Ohio is extraor-
dinarily tedious and difficult. The Spaniards have
long since made attempts, but without result, to make
easier the navigation against the current of the Mis-
sissippi. Considering how immense is the interior
country, the Ohio and the Mississippi are not sufficient
to distribute wealth and plenty everywhere alike.
Populous and powerful states these western parts will
likely see arise, but the weightier advantages of the
foreign trade, producing wealth more rapidly, will re-
dound only to the profit of the colonies along the coast.
Besides, at the present time there are reasons why
the trade of this interior country should be greatly
hindered, the mouth of the Mississippi (the single
great stream flowing through that immense land),
being wholly in the hands of the Spaniards.* The

* Contention with Spain, over the shipping and duties on the
Mississippi, has already begun, in the year 1784, and still
continues.

266 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

posterity of the new western states must and will seek
to make the mouth of the Mississippi free.

Particulars and circumstantial accounts regarding
the origin and natural condition of this new colony at
Kentucky I had recently from America, in a description
drawn up by John Filson, of which I have given an
epitome in the Gelehrten Anzeigen, Erlangen ; but the
repetition, in the Appendix, No. Ill, will not be un-
acceptable.

Among the natural curiosities of the Kentucky
country, the wonder of all travellers has long been
excited by the numerous large teeth and bones found
there, of an animal at this time existent neither in that
region nor anywhere in America. The place where
these were first discovered lying in great heaps is a
low hill on the east side of the Ohio, 2-3 miles from
its banks and about 584 miles below Fort Pitt, reckon-
ing by the course of the river. At the head-spring of a
little brook, where also there are several large salt-
plashes, the heavy tread of the buffalo congregating
there, what with the help of wind and weather, brought
to light this heap of bones, which lay buried only a very
little way beneath the surface. The quantity of the
bones is said to be very considerable; but judging by
what lies quite exposed or protrudes from the earth,
several persons have estimated that there must be there
skeletons of at least 12-15 animals. But how many
more might be found. below? This was likely a nu-
merous herd of animals which found here their com-
mon grave. — Touching the one-time owners of these
bones, the native Americans show quite as much igno-
rance as that so far displayed in the conjectures of
the most respectable naturalists. The enormous size

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 267

of the bones and the elephant-like tusks found among
them most naturally gave occasion to regard them as
the remains of elephants formerly native to this part
of the world or brought hither by chance and come to
grief; and there was all the more ground for this
opinion, in itself not at all contradictory, since in so
many other regions similar elephant-skeletons have
been found where the race of elephants was at the time
as little indigenous as in America. But on a more
exact comparison between these bones from the Ohio
and other bones and teeth derived from actual ele-
phants, certain differences were observed which aroused
fresh doubts. It was found particularly that the thigh-
bones discovered on the Ohio were thicker and
stronger than those of the elephant as known today,
that the tusks were somewhat more curved, and espe-
cially that the crowns of the molar-teeth were fur-
nished with wedge-shaped ridges, which is not the case
with the elephant. Influenced by these several cir-
cumstances, but more especially by the last mentioned,
the learned Dr. Hunter * believed himself warranted
in supposing that those American bones and tusks be-
longed to a carnivorous animal larger than the known
elephant. From the likeness of those relics to bones
found in Siberia, Germany, and other northern
countries of the old world Raspe f sought to show the
probability that they are the remains of a large animal
(elephant or not) of a singular species, and originally

* Philosoph. Transact. Vol. LVIII. 1768.

t Philos. Transact. Vol. LIX. 1769. Dissertatio epistolaris
de Ossibus & Dentibus Elephantum, aliarumque Belluarum, in
America boreali &c. obviis, quae indigenarum belluatum esse
ostenditur, I. C. Raspe.

268 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

meant for colder regions, the whole race of which for
reasons unknown has become extinct. Daubenton and
other savans subscribed to this opinion, and Mr. Pen-
nant even believed this indeterminate animal might
yet be found somewhere in the interior, unexplored
parts of America, and therefore in his Synopsis called
it the American elephant. The matter wants further
clearing-up, + if indeed remains of the hippopotamus
are not found mixed with those of the elephant on the
Ohio, thus giving rise to errors. At Pittsburg I saw
in the possession of an artillery-officer a thigh bone, a
tusk, and a molar-tooth, which he himself had brought
thence. The thigh bone, notwithstanding it was quite
dry and had lost something here and there of its sub-
stance, weighed not less than 81 pounds ; at its middle,
where it was tolerably flat, it measured only 20 inches,
but at the lower joint two feet six and a half inches in
circumference. — The tusk was three feet and a half
long and nearly four inches in diameter at the lower
end, but it was not a complete tusk ; however, in this
specimen I could discern no curve. — The molar-tooth,
which I received as a gift, weighed six full pounds, and
its crown was armed with three high, wedge-shaped
apophyses.* — The two other specimens were given to
the Library at Philadelphia, where I came upon them
later. — As a secondary matter it deserves to be men-

* This molar-tooth, which is at the present time in the splen-
did collection of natural curiosities belonging to Privy Coun-
sellor Schmidel at Anspach, is quite distinct from elephants'
teeth compared with it by the Privy Counsellor, both as to
weight and the entire structure — The molar-tooth of an ele-
phant mentioned by Sparrmann weighed only four and a half
pounds. See his Travels, p. 563.

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 269

tioned that the officer who had them, in order to get
these three pieces taken from the place of their dis-
covery two miles to a boat on the Ohio, gave one of
his soldiers the modest pour-boire of 1000 paper dol-
lars, worth 2400 Rhenish florins. — Besides this molar-
tooth I have seen at Philadelphia, (in the collection of
Mr. du Sumitiere), others which had been found in
other parts of America ; these were all alike, and in
some of them the high continuations of the crown were
especially sharp, but in others more worn away. And
if by further discoveries of elephantine skeletons in
divers places in America it appears that this sort of
molar-tooth was general, the supposition will be
strengthened that there was at one time a distinct
American species of elephant. — It has only recently
become known that these places on the Ohio are not
the only ones in North America where remains of this
sort are to be found. Teeth &c have come to light on
the Tar river in North Carolina, near York-town in
Pensylvania, and in Ulster county in New York.
Moreover, Catesby mentions an elephant's tusk that
was dug up in South Carolina ; Kalm, a whole skeleton
found in the country of the Illinois ; and others have
been discovered in South America. The greatest store
of fossil-bones from the Ohio is owned by Dr. Morgan
at Philadelphia. By reason of the impracticable dis-
tance it was formerly a hard matter to come by them,
scarcely possible except by a long way about, sending
them down to New Orleans and around by sea to
Philadelphia. But Kentucky now becoming more
settled, there are better hopes of soon securing an
exact knowledge of these remarkable accumulations of
bones. — It would be superfluous to repeat the several

270 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

conjectures which have been ventured in explanation
of this heap of remains of an animal so wholly foreign
to the country. Recourse was had to inundations, re-
markable changes in the climate, the earth's centre of
gravity, and the earth's axis. — The American hunters
are content to explain the death of these animals, taken
to be elephants really, by the severity of a winter
which they were not able to withstand ; and in support
of their opinion they say that very often uncommonly
hard winters kill in quantities other animals ranging
in this part of the earth.* But it is at once seen that
so local a cause cannot have worked the destruction of
these animals in the warmer climate of South America.
However, no one was happier in his conjectures on
this subject than the author + of the Essai sur I'origine
de la population de I'Amerique, Tom. II. p. 298, who
(whether in jest or earnest is not known) regards all
these bones as nothing less than what remains of a
troop (equipped with six-pound molar-teeth?) of
fallen angels, according to his system the original in-
habitants of the earth in its first and glorious state,
until for their transgressions they and their dwelling
place the earth were condemned to a common ruin,
and hereupon the remnant of the purified planet was
made fit for the reception of the present improved
race of the children of men.

I return again to the regions about Pittsburg. In

* During the very hard winter of 1779-80, (among others,)
there were found dead here and there great numbers of deer
in the interior woods of America and in the mountains ; often
many together, by frozen springs where in other seasons they
had been accustomed to drink or to lick salt. And during that
winter other animals and numbers of birds succumbed.

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 271

several excursions beyond the Alleghany we had occa-
sion to observe the goodness and riotous fertility of
the soil in its original undisturbed character. The
indigenous plants had a lusty, fat appearance, and they
grow vastly stronger and to greater heights than is
their habit elsewhere. In a new-made and unmanured
garden there stood stalks of the common sun-flower,
which were not less than 20 ft. high, measured 6 inches
in diameter, and were almost ligneous. The forests
were of chestnut, beech, sassafras, tulip-trees or pop-
lars, wild cherry, red maple, sugar-maple, black wal-
nut, hickory and its varieties, several sorts of oak, the
sour gum, the liquid-amber or sweet-gum, and other
trees known along the coast but here growing still
finer and stronger. The forests are for the most part
quite clear of undergrowth, which is equally fortunate
for the hunter and the traveller. We were shown sev-
eral trees, described as of an unknown species, which
appeared quite like the Gleditsia triacanthos, but had
no thorns. — Among the somewhat rarer trees are to be
reckoned the papaws,* which chiefly grow in moist,
rich, black soil, often called after them ' papaw-soil/
They are slender trees, with a smooth, white bark, and
beautifully leaved. Their smooth, egg-shaped fruit
when over-ripe is not at all unpleasant, but by no
means to every one's taste. The fruit has an odor of
pineapples, but the bark and leaves a disagreeable
repulsive smell.

The sugar-maple is largely used by the people of
these parts, because the carriage makes the customary

* Annona glabra. Gron. Virg. p. 83. Annona fructu lutes-
cente laevi &c. Catesby II. 85?

272 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

sugar too dear for them. The tree grows more nu-
merously here in the mountains than in the country
nearer the coast ; and one sees now and again in the
woods gutters and troughs by means of which the sap
is collected. The Indians also are known to make use
of the sugar, and they boil it down on the spot. Others
prepare it for sale, at one and a half to two shillings
Pensylv. the pound. It is brown to be sure, and some-
what dirty and viscous, but by repeated refinings can
be made good and agreeable.* A domestic tea is pre-
pared from the leaves of the Red-root (Ceanothus
americana) , which is really not bad to drink, and may
well take its place along with the inferior sorts of
Bohea tea. Jonathan Plummer in Washington county
on the Monongahela during the war prepared himself
more than 1000 pounds of this tea, and sold it for seven
and a half to ten Pensylv. shillings the pound. His
method of preparation he kept secret; probably he
dried the leaves on or in iron-ware over a slow fire.
By better handling, more careful and cleanly, this tea
could likely be made greatly more to the taste than it
is. At the beginning of the war, what with general
prohibitions and the enthusiastic patriotism, the im-
porting of Chinese tea was for some time rendered
difficult, and attempts were made everywhere to find
substitutes in native growths ; this shrub was found
the most serviceable for the purpose and its use is still
continued in the back parts. Along the coast this
patriotic tea was less known and demanded, but it will

* More circumstantial accounts in this regard are to be
found in P. Kalm's description of how sugar is made in North
America from several sorts of trees. Schwed. akad. Abhandl.
XIII.

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 273

soon banish from many houses in the mountains the
foreign tea which is now become cheaper. The use
of tea is everywhere quite common.

Besides the elsewhere commonly known sorts of
wild American grape-vines, there is found on the lower
sandy banks of the Ohio a particular vine, of a squat,
bushy stem, which bears small, round, black, and sweet
berries, and has been observed nowhere else by me.
Ginseng and both varieties of the snake-root occur in
plenty and are industriously gathered. Of other
medicinal plants there are found the Collinsonia,
Veronica virginica, Lobelia syphilitica, Aralia race-
mosa, nudicaulis, Spircea trifoliata, Actaa racemosa,
Asclepias tuberosa, Aristolochia frutescens, &c, and
numberless others which I have cited elsewhere in a
list of North American sanative remedies. What with
our short stay at a season already advanced, the list
of the remaining plants met with in this region would
be too uncertain and insignificant to be given place
here. We found only a few autumn plants in bloom
and those well-known ; but spring and summer in the
mountains and swamps of this western country would
certainly afford a rich harvest, not only of rare plants
but of those unknown. Among other things these
forests would supply many new contributions to the
order of mushrooms, of which uncommonly large
specimens are sometimes found. I saw a white Lyco-
perdon, which weighed two and a quarter pounds, and
was in diameter a foot and eight inches. Extraordi-
narily large specimens of Boletus parasiticus also occur.

Fruit is still a rarity, here as well as throughout the
mountains. Near to the Fort was an orchard, planted
by the English garrison but since wholly neglected,
18

274 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

and this was the only one for perhaps a hundred miles
around. In it were several varieties of the best-tast-
ing pears and apples. The common reproach that
America is unable to produce as good fruit as Europe
will certainly not apply to this region. In the woods
around there are many wild bees, and on a still, warm
evening one notices quite plainly a pleasant smell of
honey. The hunters are accustomed to gather honey
incidentally. The field-crops of the region are maize,
wheat, spelt, oats, buckwheat, and turnips. With the
present trifling number of the inhabitants the worth
of their produce is not great, and the income from
lands is inconsiderable. Mr. Ormsby, our host, owns
a tract of land along the Monongahela some miles in
length; but only 18 indolent families are settled on it,
who are required to pay a third of their harvest as
rent. But being careless whether they raise much
more than they themselves need or whether the owner
bids them go or stay, and having so far no competitors
to fear, what they render is very insignificant.

The inhabitants of the surrounding mountain-woods
are bears, wolves, the fox, the lynx, wild cats, now and
then a red tiger (Fells concolor, L.) raccoons, opos-
sums, and deer. Elks are much rarer ; and the buffalo
likewise have been frightened farther off, preferring
besides the flatter country. Deer * are already grow-
ing scarcer in the neighborhood, but it is nothing un-
common for a man to bring down at times 10-12 in a
day. Liberty of hunting being unrestricted, their num-
bers will soon become still more diminished. — It is

* By this I understand the ' Virginian Deer ' of Pennant,
or according to Zimmermann the 'Virginian Hart.'

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 275

hardly to be believed, the number of grey and black
squirrels we saw, at this time in movement, migrating
from the frontiers towards the coast.* Failure of the
nuts and acorns, it was said, was the reason for this
migration, which brought about the death of many
thousands of these animals ; for innumerable quantities
of them were shot. At Wheeling alone two lads within
three days brought down 219 of them. At our tavern
we had squirrels at every meal, baked, stewed, and in
pastries. From this migration it was prophesied at
the time that a hard winter would follow, and in reality
this was the case. — Beavers were here and there found,
also otters, minks, and ground-hogs ; but I could not
be clear whether by ground-hog, here in the mount-
ains, is understood the same as what is elsewhere in
America called ground-hog (Arctomys Monax, Schre-
ber), or whether, as appears more likely, a sort of
badger is not meant. I make mention of this so that
others may be informed, on occasion, of the confusion
of names in America ; for the Arctomys Monax is at
one time called ground-hog and again wood-chuck,
and according to Kalm f the name ground-hog is given
by others to a badger-like animal. — A smaller animal
of the mouse-species is said to keep in the woods, but
nobody has caught it or made it his business to settle
what it is.

A few Indian families, of the Delaware tribe, were
living at this time close by the Fort. Accompanied by
an officer of the garrison I visited their chief, Colonel

* Vid. Counsellor Schreber's Saiigthiere, Abth. IV, 770. Of
the rarer fox-squirrels (p. 774) none was observed in these
herds.

t Kalm's Travels, II, 332.

276 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Killbuck. It is well known that the Indians are very
proud of warlike titles, and take pleasure in hearing
themselves called Colonels and Captains. The Colonel,
whom we found in a dirty and ragged shirt, had the
day before returned from a long hunt, and was now
refreshing himself with drink. He spoke a broken
English, and brought out with pride a few letters
written to him by his son and his daughter, both of
whom, at the expense of the Congress, are at Princeton
for their education. — At the beginning of the war,
Colonel Killbuck, with a few families of his nation,
parted from the rest of his people, (who were gen-
erally on the side of the English), and betook himself
hither. Among all the Indians these were very nearly
the only ones who declared for the American party. —
Their whigwhams were contrived, merely for summer,
of poles and the bark of trees ; they would build better,
they said, against the winter. There were about a
dozen huts. Their beds of bear-skins were spread on
the ground about the fire which in every case was burn-
ing in the middle. The flesh-pot is never taken from
the fire except to be emptied and again filled, for they
are always eating and are bound by no fixed times.
The walls of all the huts were hung with bones, corn-
stalks, and dried venison, which forms especially their
maintenance. One of their more important men was
Captain Whiteye ; who was strutting about wrapped in
a checkered blanket, with rings in his nose and his
ears, and sumptuously adorned with colored streaks
down his face ; for, along with one Montresor, a
quarter-blood Indian, he had this morning had an
audience with the commanding officer. General Irwin
had several times, and again today, given them to un-

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 277

derstand that they could leave the Fort if they desired,
peace now being declared and their presence in several
ways being burdensome ; but they seemed not at all
inclined to go, apprehending perhaps not the most
friendly reception among their people. — A young, well-
formed, copper-brown, squaw was beating maize in a
wooden trough before one of the huts : her entire
costume consisted of a tight petticoat of blue cloth
hardly reaching to the knees, and without any ruffles ;
her straight black hair hung loose over the shoulders,
her cheeks and forehead nicely dawbed in red. She
seemed very well content with the society of her co-
adjutor, a brisk young fellow who except for two rags
appropriately disposed was quite as naked as the in-
genuous beauty. Other women were occupied in
pleating baskets, shelling corn, or in some such way,
for as is well known, the men give themselves no con-
cern about domestic affairs. The surplus of their
crops, their baskets, and straw-pleated works they ex-
changed for whiskey. There were several by no means
ugly faces among them, and their color is not of a uni-
form brownish-yellow. — Mistress Grenadier, an Indian
woman lives in a house of her own, built after the
European manner, in the orchard of the Fort. She is
no longer young, but still shows the traces of a faded
beauty which formerly elevated her to the companion-
ship of an English, and later of an American General.
Her daughter, with all the advantages of youth, is not
so attractive as her mother. By trade with the Indians
she has become rich, and still prepares for sale mocca-
sons (shoes of buffalo-leather) and sundry beautiful
articles made of colored straw.

The Indians are generally hated here quite as much

(I

((

27S TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

as they are pretty well throughout America. But this
hate does not always spring from the same reasons,
much less from those altogether just. — It is beginning
to be extensively and learnedly posited that none of the
Indian tribes, as many of them as are still scattered
throughout the whole of broad America, have the re-
motest right to the land wherein they and their fore-
fathers for unthinkable ages have lived. I have seen a
few outgivings on this subject in the United States
Magazine + which sound strange enough. For example,
" The whole earth is given to man, and all the children
of Adam have an equal right in it, and to equal parts
of it." The right of earlier possession and of heredi-
tary possession is accounted non-sense, + and after all
manner of digressions, the main proof continues, " that
" the revealed law has given the earth to man under
" the fixed condition that he use it in the sweat of his
" brow. Now the Indians do not use their extensive
' woods in the sweat of their brow, but only hunt
' there. Therefore it is plain as day that they have no
1 right to the land and it is permissible to drive them
" out at will. For it would be as ludicrous to seek to
" buy the land of the buffalo and deer which inhabit
" the American wilds as of the roving Indians ; for if
wandering about in the forest gave a title to it, the
buffalo and deer would have as good a one as these
Indian nations." On the same page the philanthropic
author admits that a German who finds along the
thickly settled Rhine no bit of free land for himself
and his family, following the natural law may sure
enough, in the less populous Pensylvania, justly de-
mand an allotment of land for nothing ; but at the same
time he discreetly mentions that nobody would give

u

II

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 279

him the land. Because, says he, for the common peace
and the security of property, general laws are preferred
by states, according to which one man may possess an
acre of land, or none at all, and another may own
thousands without being set at defiance because the
property is unequally shared.

But are there not similarly accepted laws as be-
tween nation and nation, ancient and sacred laws, re-
gardless of complexion or faith? Is not that reason-
able for one which is right for another? Is not the
reproach, that he fails to cultivate large possessions,
to be brought against the citizen of the United States
as well as against the Indian, and no question raised
as to title? In his bitterness against the poor In-
dians the same author continues : ; They are devils in
' the guise of men ; without truth and without faith ;
' to be won by no kindness ; breakers Of promises ;
' barbarous in war, &c." — Mere abuse, which touches
others besides the original inhabitants of America.
He lets fall this judgment however : : These nations
are so far degenerated from humanity, so insus-
ceptible of every magnanimous feeling, so extrava-
' gant in all their boundless passions, so faithless, so
' incapable of civilization, that for the good order and
' well-being of the world it is dangerous to allow them
' to dwell in it longer." -The author is loud in his
professions that it would give him pleasure to know
that the whole race was exterminated — but with singu-
lar mildness he contents himself with proposing:
' that instead of making treaties of peace with them,
' and thus tacitly granting them the rights of nations
1 and of property, they should without ceremony be
" compelled to give up the land of their fathers, to

(f

II

280 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

' withdraw into the cold regions of the North, and
4 never again show themselves below the sources of
' the streams falling into the Mississippi and the Ohio
' — there should they languish and decay.'' Who would
expect to hear so unrighteous a judgment, put for-
ward so unashamed by a citizen of the states, only now
become free, regarding thousands of his fellow-men?

That the Indians are not so entirely incapable of all
betterment is proved by the efforts, not fruitless, of the
Moravian Brethren on the Muskingum, and by those
of the French and Spanish missionaries in Canada and
in Florida. But without the influence of religion it
often happens that from other motives Indian families
here and there come to live in the neighborhood of
Europeans and to concern themselves less with hunt-
ing, which had been their custom from their unstable
and unsocial manner of life.

Thus there are living now as citizens on Nantucket
the descendants of the Indians of those parts who, like
the \vhite islanders, support themselves by whale-fish-
ing. Divers families are scattered along the coast of
Massachusetts ; and but a short time since other
families were living on Long Island, quietly and harm-
less, by what they made from their corn-fields, by fish-
ing and by the sale of baskets. That was the case in
several other provinces besides, where for the fish and
clams they for a long time kept to the coasts and
streams, until the numbers of the European colonists
constantly increasing drove .them out and they were
obliged to withdraw to the interior. It is however true
that even where they were content to live quietly and
peaceably in European neighborhoods, they never
showed an inclination to adopt the customs, way of

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 281

life, or modes of livelihood of their neighbors.
Whether there was lacking in them a natural spirit
of imitation and ability to discriminate between better
and worse, or whether they were restrained by the
peculiar pride which they possess in no small degree,
I will not attempt to say. Whatever the reason, they
sought everywhere to maintain their independence in
all ways, and so fled from every closer bond of asso-
ciation with Europeans, so soon as they began to fear
the slightest inconvenience or restraint. — But with all
their unpliableness, their moral character is not so
black as it is painted in America ; and it appears that
native Europeans who have had opportunity to know
them intimately are willing to do them more justice in
this regard than Americans born, who on all occasions
manifest for them an inherited and bitter hatred.
They possess and practice virtues for which, in their
meagre language, they themselves have no name. They
are hospitable and courteous and show respect for
every man who conducts himself conformably in their
regard ; they are grateful and sensible, and if they seem
not to be so, it is merely because they set a worth dif-
ferent from ours on complaisances and gifts ; they are
stedfast and trustworthy friends and are true to their
promises. It would not be difficult to support all that
has been said by examples, if I cared to assemble anec-
dotes. They can hardly be reproached with ever hav-
ing broken treaties voluntarily and unprovoked, at
least in no way less conscienceless than what is cus-
tomary with other and civilized nations. But once
aroused, their desire for vengeance and blood knows
no bounds, until they believe themselves indemnified
for wrong suffered.

282 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Their wars are fierce and barbarous ; and on this
ground, among others, it is sought on the one hand to
excuse the general bitterness against them, on the
other to disseminate and maintain it, the true reason
being only envy and greed of the lands still in their
possession. Their unmanly and dastardly way of mak-
ing war is fulminated against in America, but as
against European foes, (as is well enough known from
the history of the last war), every Indian device was
allowed and made use of. — It is called inhuman if the
Indians, without discrimination, murder the able-bodied
man, his wife, innocent children and still more inno-
cent cattle ; but a similar vengeance is practiced against
the families of Indians ; their dwellings are burned and
their lands devastated ; so that by Christian example
the horrors of their wars are justified. All the faith-
lessness, cunning, deception and treachery, suspicion
and ardor of vengeance which are pictured in high
colors as the marks of the Indian character, will cer-
tainly appear in milder light to every unprejudiced
person if there is taken into the account all the
wrong which they on their side have suffered, all the
blood which has been shed among them, all that liberty
and ease which they have lost through the European
colonists, all the territory from which they have been
driven, and the consuming maladies which have been
introduced among them. They hold carefully the re-
membrance of all the oppressions and deception, of all
the numberless instances of trickery practiced against
them and blood shed by the Europeans among them,
treasuring it up as a warning for their descendants
who may thereby demand vengeance for past en-
croachments and be on their guard against future. —

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 283

But it is neither my intention nor my right to speak
for the Indians. I leave this willingly to those who
go about among them intimately and know that they,
like all other nations, are supported by natural, by
prescriptive, and by fancied rights ; are proud in their
conceptions of their privileges, and direct accordingly
their dealings and their behavior.

There are, however, Europeans who are greatly
attached to the rude way of life among the Indians.
One of the inhabitants of Pittsburg at this time was
in his youth taken captive by them, and lived with
them for some years ; and the pleasure he took in their
customs and their careless and idle life got so strong a
hold upon him that after he had been released, with
other captives, he returned to them again secretly, and
had to be brought away a second time by his relations.
There are many examples of such captives who did
not care to be released ; and also of Europeans who of
their own accord live among them, exchanging with-
out regret all the advantages of civilized society and
convenience of life for the unrestricted freedom which
is the Indians' highest good.

Of the former works of the Indians, remains are
still here and there to be found, which give evidence of
great patience and often of no common inventive
powers, when it is considered that they lacked tools
and what they had were insufficient. General Irwin
possessed a tobacco-pipe made of a soft, blackish kind
of stone ; * it had a curved stem, with mouth-piece,

* " Near the Marble river is a mountain whence the Indians
' fetch a red stone which they use in the fabrication of their
" tobacco-bowls. There is found in that region also a black,

284 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

perhaps six inches long, the whole made together.
Although this had no ornament as is sometimes the
case, the work was rather neat and the boring of the
curved stem must have cost no little time and skill.
The Indians who had presented this pipe to the Gen-
eral, set a high value on it, and declared it to be very,
very old. There are found also, but rarely, little
figures, porringers, and other utensils of the same
material, which if not tasteful are always laboriously
made. The Indians no longer concern themselves
with the fabrication of such things ; getting all their
little needs from Europeans, this branch of industry
has become quite extinct among them.

Of the medical knowledge of the Indians the opinion
here and there in America is still very high.* The
greater number, but not the well-informed, are con-
vinced that the Indians, mysteriously skilled in many
excellent remedies, carefully and jealously conceal
them from the white Europeans. As always so here,
people are deceived by the fancy that behind a veil of
mystery there lie hidden great and powerful things.
I see no reason to expect anything extraordinary or

" hard clay, or rather stone, from which the Naudowessies
" make their household utensils." Carver.

The bowl seen by me looked and felt like steatite. Mr.
Kirwan supposes that the white and yellow Terre a Chalumeau
of Canada is a sort of meerschaum.

* This ungrounded but ancient misconception Dr. Benjamin
Rush of Philadelphia some time ago undertook to combat.
See his Oration delivered February 4, 1774, before the Ameri-
can Philosophical Society, containing an Enquiry into the
Natural history of Medicine among the Indians in North
America. — A translation of this readable essay is to be found
in Samml. auserles. Abhandl. fur praktische Aertzte, IV, 267.

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 285

important, and I am almost certain that with the pas-
sage of time nothing will be brought to light, if as is
the case, outright specifics are looked for and presum-
ably infallible remedies. I do not therefore deny in
any way that we must thank the northern half of
America for sundry medicaments of value, and I ap-
prehend as well that every new remedy must be to the
patriotic American physican a treasured contribution
to his domestic medical store. Most of the diseases
for the healing of which the skill of the Indians is
especially praised are simple, those in which nature
may work actively and effect the most salutary changes.
The variety of diseases among the Indians is not
great and is confined chiefly to fevers and superficial
injuries. The observers and panegyrists of the so
much belauded Indian methods of therapy are com-
monly ignorant people who find things and circum-
stances wonderful because they cannot offer explana-
tions from general principles. The bodily constitution
of an Indian, hardened from youth by vehement ex-
ercise and by many difficult feats, demands and bears
stronger medical excitants ; and endowed originally
with more elasticity, the physical system of an Indian
often rids itself of a malady more promptly than that
of a European, weaker and softer, is able to do. Their
weaklings succumb in early youth, and those who sur-
vive all the hardships of a careless bringing-up owe it
to their better constitution. The medicines of which
they make use are few and simple, potent naturally or
through the heaviness of the dose. A mild repeated
purgative the Indian knows nothing of, and with him
the effect must continue at least a day or maybe two
days without stop. The most of their praised specifics

286 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

are purgatives, perspiratives, or urine-stimulants,
which they use not sparingly at the first approach of
disease, and in this way often check the progress of the
malady. But success does not always attend the treat-
ment. Certainly, cases enough occur where the pre-
scription is agreeable to the malady, and great benefit
is suddenly experienced. Such instances are then
noised abroad until the story of one and the same case
becomes so varied and magnified that it is regarded as
a daily and hourly occurrence, proof of the medical
skill of the Indians, and so the craving after their
mysteries is continually renewed and maintained. On
the other hand it is not remarked how many Indians
fall unhappy sacrifices to their over-praised methods
of cure. It is not observed that inflammatory fevers,
small-pox, and other violent diseases ravage unspeak-
ably among them, because their received methods can
effect nothing in such cases, more than chance being
necessarv in the treatment. It is not observed how

•/

most of their chronic patients leave the world as a re-
sult of carelessness and unskilful handling. The In-
dian, when he falls ill, has recourse first to his roots
and sacredly regarded herbs ; he purges and sweats
inordinately ; fasts for days together ; leaps into cold
water, and submits to conjurings. Should he conquer
his disease by arousing another — well and good, the
medicines have done it. But should these first general
means prove in vain, he knows not what to do further,
uses promiscuously what strikes his fancy, and chance
not being favorable to him, gives himself up to despair
and his destiny. — And what should lead us to think
that a people as rude as the Indians, so heedless and
without foresight, could be more fortunate in the dis-

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 287

covery of specifics and more successful in applying
them than nations which by their united efforts and
assembled experiments have not yet learned how to
work wonders? Or why are we to believe that the
American soil is more beneficent than the rest of the
earth in the bringing forth of specific means? The
Indian lives truer to nature, if living wild and un-
constrained may be so called. His way of life subjects
him to a number of miseries ; he suffers alternately
the extremes of hunger and fullness, cold and heat,
activity and relaxation, all which must work in his
body powerful and mischievous changes. Is he ex-
posed to fewer diseases merely because he has less
knowledge and skill in the treatment of them? — Civ-
ilized nations live softer and more meticulously, and
bring upon themselves a greater number of maladies.
But also are they not able to remove or alleviate a
greater number of maladies, and to prolong the lives
of weaklings, who elsewhere perish? — But however
true these things are, and however grounded the
charge that the Indians jealously keep secret their
specific and wonder-working remedies, the burden of
accusation is in some measure lessened by their gen-
erous readiness to produce without reward their mani-
fold roots, barks, and herbs for the behoof of those
needing aid, even if they do not indicate whence they
got them. They show at least no selfish and mer-
cenary views, which are the commonest motives among
the no less numerous mystery-usurers of more civilized
and enlightened nations. A speaking example of this
has been just now afforded in Pensylvania and adja-
cent parts by a certain Martin, who boasted of possess-
ing an all-powerful but secret cure for cancer. This

288 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

aroused the credulity and won the confidence of his
people so much the more because of the clever pre-
text that the discovery of the root (according to him
the medicine came from a root) had been communi-
cated to him in confidence by an old Indian at Pitts-
burg. Although shrewd and impartial physicians at
Philadelphia found good reason to doubt the highly
praised worth of the remedy in genuine cases of can-
cer, the incredible number of imaginary or pretended
cases of the disease, news of which came in from all
parts, was astonishing. Never before had so much
been heard of this malady. But it was certain that
fear and prepossession caused the anxious patient to
fancy every obstinate or rooted impostume must be
cancerous, and it was to be expected of the purveyor
of the famous remedy that he, for his advantage,
should claim everything to be cancer and thus multi-
ply his cures. However it was by no means clearly made
out that the medicine used by him was in reality taken
from nothing but a root. But he sought to spread
abroad this belief, and almost every year made a
journey to Pittsburg pretending to dig his mysterious
root there from a particular hill on the Monongahela.
Since I had come from Philadelphia, the attempt was
made to search out this root for me, and I was shown
the region whence it was believed he got the root ;
I found there in great quantity the Sanguinaria cana-
densis (blood-root) and the Ranunculus sceleratus L.
Both roots have corrosive properties, and from many
other circumstances too numerous to mention, it is
highly probable that Martin made use of one or the
other, if only to conceal other and more powerful con-
stituents mixed in, for it was supposed that he added

THE WESTERN COUNTRY 289

arsenic to his medicine.* Both plants are very com-
mon in other parts of America, and the blood-root is
here and there used as a remedy for warts and in
cleansing slight sores. — It is to be wished that the
physicians in America, who have already in other
matters, shown their patriotism in many noble efforts,
may also have a patriotic eye to the completer knowl-
edge and more general use of their native materia
medica. It betrays an unpardonable indifference to
their fatherland to see them making use almost wholly
of foreign medicines, with which in large measure they
might easily dispense, if they were willing to give their
attention to home-products, informing themselves more
exactly of the properties and uses of the stock of
domestic medicines already known. They would then
have the pleasure of showing their fellow-citizens how
unreasonable it is to envy the poor Indians their re-
puted science, and they would be working usefully for
the community and beneficently for the poor if they
made it their business to further the employment of
the manifold wealth afforded by nature in its precious
gifts to them.

* After Martin's death, in 1784, Dr. Rush discovered & pub-
lished in the second volume of the Transact, of the Amer.
Philos. Society, that his cancer-powder consisted of white
arsenic and a plant ingredient.

Return from

We had now spent seven days at Pittsburg, had
industriously examined the country around and col-
lected all seeds and plants that came to our notice.*
I should not fail to mention the courtesies and as-
sistance rendered us by the officers of the garrison ;
and I must especially acknowledge our obligations to
the Commander of the Fort, General Irwin, + and to
Colonel Bayard. We returned this afternoon, Sep-
tember 13, to Turkey Creek Settlement. One of the
old inhabitants there assured us that he had often
made the following experiment. If in the middle of
summer the water of Turkey Creek or, as he says,
that of most of the other mountain streams, is whipped
and beaten with a stick, and then if a fire-brand is
passed over, a mist is enkindled and a faint evanescent
flame runs over the entire width of the brook. But
the experiment did not succeed when I was by, and I
do not know through what chance the observation was
occasioned. If it is true, it may be that the abundant
pit-coals in the mountains, or the petroleum here and

* But it was labor lost. We committed two chests full of
stones, plants, seeds &c to waggoners who promised to deliver
them within a fortnight at Baltimore, whither they were
bound. Not until after fourteen months did these boxes reach
Baltimore, and then plundered of everything which seemed of
importance to the conveyers, and the rest disordered and
marred.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 291

there found, had the greatest share in this phenom-
enon.*

Hard and continuous rains and a bad road delayed
our journey ; and the halt in these woods was all the
more dismal and tedious, since returning we were
obliged to follow the same road as we had come. —
There was already heavy hoar-frost almost every night
in the mountains — Wolves and bears had within a few
days done much damage in these parts among the
calves, sheep, and hogs, which are let run night and
day regardless in the woods. As little thought is taken
to protect these animals against danger by keeping
them in stalls as the people themselves give to warding
off thieves. Nowhere are doors barred for the safety
of those sleeping within ; for in these patriarchal
regions where the general poverty does not yet com-
pensate the trouble of stealing, few thieves so far find
a support.

Dr. Peters, already mentioned above, we found on
our return at home. He boasted that he had on his
book for a year's praxis almost 200 Pd. Pensylv. Cur-
rent, but unfortunately cannot collect any money from
the people, that being a scarce article in the mountains,
and he has no use for what they bring in kind. He
makes a charge of two Spanish dollars for inocula-

* It was not known to me until later that Dr. Franklin had
made the same remark in accounts given by him of swampy
brooks in Jersey and elsewhere, and that this phenomenon
shows itself in a good many slimey streams where combustible
effluvium, or marsh-air, is contained in the water, that being
the material cause. Several examples of this sort are given in
Fried. Knoll's entertaining Naturwunder; See, his chapter
Ents&ndbares Geu'dsser oder lustige Feuersbriinste auf Quellen
nnd Fliissen. +

292 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

tions. How much of an apothecary he is, I know not,
but he had neither whiskey nor bitters in store. He
would hear nothing of pay for the breakfast we and
our horses had had, and was so gracious as to heal in
a masterly way our vehicle which had suffered from
the ailments of the road. — With much difficulty we
came this time over the rocky and boggy Laurel-hill.
The extraordinary heat of the day oppressed us, and
along the whole road, 14 dreary miles, there are only
two places where water is to be had, and we had the
ill luck not to find them. On the other side of the
Laurel-hill, in the Glades so-called, we accidentally
got out of the direct road, as night was already begin-
ning to fall, and the road we were following led us
into a narrow, level valley. Two lads who met us
assured us, with a friendlier manner than that cus-
tomary here, that wre should be welcome in their
father's house which was near by. When we reached
the place, there appeared Mr. Herrman Husband, (for
this was the name of the strange man), barefoot and
dressed in worn and dirty clothes. The reception was
courteous, with no waste of words and with no im-
pertinent questions — almost the American habit. I
should have been rather perplexed how to volunteer
our history had not Mistress Husband, while she was
making ready the coffee for supper, shown somewhat
more of a natural curiosity. Suddenly, as we sat about
the fire, the talk fell on the mountains, their valleys,
inhabitants, soil and the like, and I was astounded to
hear our host, until then sitting still and reflective, all
at once begin speaking with enthusiasm, judiciously
and not wholly without learning. So far I had met
no one, not even among those citizens of the United

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 293

States better housed and clad, who appeared to have
given so much attention to the mountains. However,
Mr. Husband was over-interested in the regularity
and straight line of the Alleghany which he compared
to a solid wall, reckoning off-hand that the foot-hills
of the mountains signified neither more nor less than
the little inequalities made by the protruding stones
of a wall. He estimated the width of the Alleghany
as from the foot of the Dry Ridge or Willis's Mount-
ain to the western foot of the Chesnut Ridge, (thus
including the Laurel-hill), counting this one single
mountain-wall, and hence some 80 miles in breadth.
Then taking the one, two, and three-mile jutties as so
many eightieth parts of the whole, he compared them
to the projecting stone-points of a wall, say four feet
in thickness, and found that the apparently formless
off-shoots from the chief mountain wall are merely to
be regarded in relation as so many jutting stone-points,
of half an inch or more, in a wall of the thickness
mentioned, and therefore are quite insignificant. I
could at the moment make nothing of this vindicatory
estimate. He then spoke much of Woodward's and
Burnet's + systems, of the central fire and other igne-
ous and setherial hypotheses, and his talk became con-
tinually more astonishing. But among many just and
reasonable observations he made, it was plain that his
ideas as a whole turned about an axis and were directed
towards a main object which I could not by question-
ing discover. He mentioned that he had travelled
more than 400 miles along the Alleghany southwards,
and would within a brief space undertake a similar
journey, in which he most courteously invited me to
join him. I enquired what was the purpose of this

294 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

journey. " To complete a chart of the mountains,"

was his answer. I asked if I might see his sketches
for such a map. He promised I might examine them
the following morning. I could hardly wait for the
morning, and rejoiced at the chance which had brought
me to the acquaintance of this singular man. I
eagerly reminded him of his promise, and he drew
forth from the bed dusty papers, spreading them out
before him in a hesitating manner. The course of the
Alleghany through Pensylvania and Virginia was
pretty exactly set down ; but not without surprise I
saw that he had continued this chain of mountains
northwards beyond the Hudson, then westwards below
Hudson's Bay nearly to the Pacific Sea, and thence to
the west of the Mississippi to and through Louisiana
and Mexico, and finally had sketched in still another
chain through Florida and Georgia making with the
first a complete quadrangle, through which the Ohio
and the Mississippi spread their numerous branches.

Upon my question what warranted him in making
the mountains of the northern half of America run a
quadrangular course, I received the very unexpected
answer : — " Not I but the Prophet Ezekiel so set
' down the walls of the New Jerusalem," — and im-
mediately he began, step by step and mile by mile, to
expound how the Prophet Ezekiel has delineated with
the utmost exactness the geography of America and
its future states. Now I knew my man, and his
allusions of the day before to walls, masonry, and
gates were no longer a mystery, the subject of his
extravagances being in this manner revealed. All
further objections and questions were in vain, for I
was continually referred to Ezekiel the Prophet. With

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 295

this as basis he had placed the new Jerusalem within
the four great mountain-walls, and indicated in fair
quadrature the twelve tribes which according to him
and the Prophet were to be the ruling nations of this
part of the world. But Ezekiel has measured space
for only twelve tribes, and the United States are
thirteen, I objected. Herrman Husband was in no
way perplexed at this question : for the United States,
said he, have nothing to do with the New Jerusalem,
which will form a kingdom to itself and will bring
into vassalage all provinces and peoples from the
Alleghany, or the eastern wall, to the Atlantic Ocean.
—Fortunate it is for the Congress and the entire
thirteen United States that they know nothing as yet
of Herrman's and Ezekiel's prophecies, and careless of
the subjugation threatening them, live on tranquilly
in the sweet, giddy pleasure of their new-won freedom,
and will so continue long to live. On his chart Herr-
man had christened the several regions of the future
kingdom with Ezekiel's names. The Mexican Bay,
stood there as the Waters of Contention, the Gulf of
St. Lawrence and the New England Coasts as the fish-
stocked waters of Engaddi unto Enghain, &c. — So
wholly was he absorbed in the glory of this future
kingdom that it was quite impossible for him to admit
a reasonable thought, so long as the chart lay on the
table, and had I not interrupted he would have read
me his descriptions and explanations. But Ezekiel
out of the way, Mr. Husband was again master of his
thoughts. The loneliness of his mountain sojourning-
place, lively powers of imagination, and a certain de-
gree of erudition had doubtless given the man this
singular humor, who besides was naturally of a rest-

296 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

less and enterprising spirit. He lived formerly in
North Carolina, where he played a considerable part in
a company of men who shortly before the outbreak of
the war drew much attention to themselves and caused
great disturbance. They called themselves Regula-
tors, + and had undertaken nothing less than to demand
a reckoning of the Governor of the province, at that
time General Tryon, in the item of certain imposts and
the use made of them, intending also to abolish other
ordinances which they believed to be unlawful and
arbitrary. Whether it is true, I cannot say, but I have
heard several persons declare these Regulators be-
came an unlucky sacrifice to their reasonable, if blus-
tering, opposition to the oppression which threatened
them, laying themselves open to persecution. Their
complaints and grievances did not prevail, their pur-
poses were falsely represented, and they were treated
with the utmost severity. The war coming on, how-
ever, many of them are said to have remained worthy
and zealous friends to the royal government. At the
time, Husband could only escape through precipitous
flight the punishment in store for him. He betook
himself hither into the mountains, where under a
changed name and wearing strange clothing, he con-
trived to avoid further persecution, until the general
war breaking out assured him peace. Instead of
matters of state he concerns himself now with proph-
ecies, of which several have appeared in Goddard's
Maryland Calendar under the name Hutrim Hutrim,
or the Philosopher of the Alleghany. In one of these
he had calculated the time of his death, but has already
lived some years beyond the term. He is a Quaker,
and was occupied with iron-works in the mountainous

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 297

part of North Carolina. He told me of solid iron,
which admits of cutting, found (but rarely) in North
Carolina.

We found the road pretty good through the re-
mainder of the Glades until in the evening we came to
Marshall, the smith's, at the foot of the Alleghany.
Our horses needed shoeing. But we were obliged to
be patient spectators until he had leisurely devoured
his meal ; we gained nothing by asking him in a
friendly way to help us on, since the night and a bad
road lay before us. He was an American-German
gentleman !

In these Glades, described above, in reality a broken,
elevated valley between the Alleghany and the Laurel-
hill, all sorts of grain are cultivated. Maize, however,
does not everywhere come to complete maturity, and
the people are accustomed to plant only so much of
the commonest sort as they count on eating green.
When the maize has just formed its ' ears ', and the
grain is still soft and full of sap, the Americans hold
it to be a delicacy ; the ears are boiled or baked in the
ashes, and eaten with salt and butter, and in the towns
cried for sale as ' hot corn/ But in this valley there
is a variety of early corn which developes smaller in-
deed, but does better. Much summer wheat is sowed.
Winter wheat must be got into the ground very early,
the end of August or about the first of September.
When we first came over the road we saw wheat just
sowing at a certain place, and after 14 days, on our
return, it was already several inches out of the ground.
A light hoar-frost is observed in the Glades during the
summer, once or twice in almost every month ; this
summer more than formerly. — The inhabitants know

298 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

little of sickness. But they, (as others of their country-
men and from the same cause), are very subject to
rheumatick complaints ; letting their horses and cattle
run in the woods at night, according to the general
custom, in the morning if they wish to use them they
must often go far to find them through dewy grass
and wet bush, and thinly clad besides. There are coals
and limestone in this valley, but no traces of petrifac-
tions in the limestone. — The Helianthns tuberosus is
here and there grown in gardens and from it a toler-
ably good thin beer is brewed, and a syrup also is
boiled. Of fruit-trees there were few to be seen, and
as little industry observed in the item of gardening —
In the woods along the road we remarked no trees
conspicuously distinct from those of the lower parts
of the country towards the coast.

From the Glades the ascent is by no means steep to
the ridge of the Alleghany ; only four miles from
Marshall's to the opposite foot of the mountain, along
which runs a branch of the Juniata, and following this
it is three miles more, a level road mostly, to the first
cabin. Crossing the Alleghany we found nothing but
sand-stones, (grind-stones, whet-stones, cos), whitish
intermixed with red, grey, reddish, and blackish ; the
last named variety shows something of a fine mica, but
the others none of it or much less. The loose stones
lie as plates, half an inch to four inches thick, along
the road, or stick up out of the mould-earth. On one
of these plates I found the impression of a cockle
scallop ; but these must be very rare for notwithstand-
ing all my searching and turning over of stones I
could find no other along the road ; they are perhaps
to be found more numerously only in particular spots.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 299

— We reached the cabin mentioned towards sunset.
As before, there was nothing to be had. It was 13
miles to the next house, and we concluded to await
the rise of the moon which would appear about mid-
night. It began to rain and there was much thunder,
and lying on hard deal-boards we had to go hungry
through the night, man and horse, and hungry keep on
over the Dry Ridge which now appeared to us doubly
dry and barren. The remark above-made was again
confirmed, the nearer we approached the east side of
the mountains. That is to say, on this side the Alle-
ghany one misses the more general prospect of black
and rich soil which distinguishes the regions beyond.
We breakfasted with a Bonnet, four miles from Bed-
ford ; he was of French origin, made bad coffee, had
odorous butter, but read to us from a French gram-
maire, and brought out Welleri Opus Mago-Cabal-
listicum which he believed to contain much hidden
wisdom if it could be understood ; I referred him to
Herrman Husband for enlightenment. In the afternoon
we came again with pleasure to the little town of
Bedford.

As ore-bearing spots in the neighboring mountains
there were mentioned among others the following :
Sinking Valley, much lead ore, which is said to con-
tain by test one and three quarter ounces silver
in the hundredweight.

Colonel Chiswell's Mine, on the Virginia boundary
in Augusta County on Hosset's River ; a lead
mine which has been known some 20-30 years.
Dennis's Creek, alum schist, which the people use

for dyeing and tanning.

On the Conemaugh copperas is found ; and there is
said to be a salt-spring nearby.

300 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

The lead mines mentioned, and others, were worked
formerly. But their remoteness from the markets,
where the refined lead could be sold, heightened the
cost of labor and carriage, and afforded no profit.
This will not be the case when the interior parts are
once settled ; then this metal may be had cheaper from
their own mines than it can be brought from the coast,
as has been done hitherto.

A man who lives on the Ohio recounted how once
his father, hunting with a neighbor in the Kentucky
region, came upon a place in the woods quite clear of
trees and so uncommonly warm that they felt the
heat through their shoes. Curiosity led them to dig
down several feet, but they found nothing remarkable.
In this eastern part of North America there are found
no traces whatever of volcanoes or of what might be
otherwise regarded as the effects of any former sub-
terranean conflagration. I saw nothing anywhere
which could be so regarded. Long since there were
sundry questions in this matter sent over from France
to the Philosophical Society at Philadelphia, and by it
were laid before the elder Bartram for elucidation, his
repeated journeys through the mountains and the
frontier regions assuring the most thorough informa-
tion. But his answer likewise was that he had seen
nothing * of the things described in the questions.

* Thus America on the whole has been so far spared earth-
quakes. Kalm mentions one which was felt in Canada during
the last century. In the middle colonies none could be remem-
bered before the winter of 1757. A faint earth-quake was
observed some six or seven years ago; and very recently a
few shivers in the night of December 2nd 1783, chiefly felt at
Philadelphia, and remarked also by the ships lying at anchor

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 301

On the other hand, traces of volcanoes are found on
the west coast of North America, according to the
observations in Cook's Voyage. Not far from Bedford
on the north bank of the Juniata we passed along a
steep mountain (Dunning's Mountain?) on the sides
of which lay a quantity of large fragments of a solid
gneiss-like rock ; in color for the most part whitish,
whitish-grey, or reddish, and yellowish. The mount-
ains and hills about Bedford run in divers directions.
The main ridges keep generally the same directions as
those given in the maps ; it is only the various foot-
hills, interlying limestone hills, and hollows made by
the devious course of the brooks that show an ap-
preciable disorder. In the hills three miles from Bed-
ford, after the Juniata has been for the first time
crossed, there is found a dark blue, often black, lime-
stone, with white spath-veins and crystals, which being
greatly weathered give the stone a particularly pitted
look.

The landscape in this region grows somewhat more
agreeable and open. The inhabitants of these mount-
ains have not been long enough here to have a distinct
character of their own such as may be observed among
many other mountain-peoples. Lack of social inter-
course makes them indeed something ruder than those
who live in the flat country. However even here the
sound, keen understanding, and the good grace which
accompanies it, are not to be mistaken in the cabins.
Although they are everywhere very little well-to-do,

off New York. In the flat country of Maryland, Virginia, and
the Carolinas, a few quakes have been felt, but very slight ;
but as yet none in the interior of the country, that is, beyond
the granite line.

302 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

they feel none of the oppression of a cringing poverty
and have no anxiety as to a maintenance. They seem
content and gratify themselves and others by the
cleanliness which prevails in their insignificant dwell-
ings as well as by their simple dress and behavior.

Here and there old Indian tombs are found in these
mountains. These are merely large heaps of stones,
which have arisen through the friendly casting-on of
a stone by each Indian passing by.

We spent the night at a Mr. Elliott's an agreeable
man, not without good sense. He had made many
journeys deep into the western country and told as an
eye-witness, how there are found there ancient graves
and ditch-works, often comprising an acre of land.
These are at times rectangular, at times oval, their
high, steep bulwarks still plainly enough visible. The
Indians of those regions know nothing whatever of
who made them, their uses, or age.

Not many years ago a saga of Welch Indians + was
spread abroad by certain Canadian travellers. They
claimed to have found in the extreme western parts
of North America Indian families speaking Welch or
Old British, and having a knowledge of the Bible.*

* Similar reports appeared very recently in the London
Chronicle, by which they were taken from a Connecticut
journal: "that the American General Parsons had discovered
in the western country remains of buildings and fortifications
of brick and stone, which prove that these regions must have
been once settled by civilized nations, or visited by them
before the discovery of Columbus. In the same sheet it is
further mentioned that a Mr. Adair who has lived long among
the Indians and is familiar with their language, cites many
words and forms of speech, particularly the names of their
gods, which must be Hebraic. But it is still more remarkable

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 303

These accounts were repeatedly published in English
magazines, and the possible roads and opportunities
already indicated how these people could arrive thither
out of Britain, before the truth of the story was yet
established, which at the present time is regarded
doubtfully and with reason.

From Elliott's, six miles this side Bedford, it is
eight miles to the Crossings, the road between steep
mountain sides which seem only to open to let the
Juniata through ; then over the Alequippe, a high,
precipitous wall, and thence four miles along a narrow
ridge or foot-hill overlaid with red whet-stone. On
both sides of this projecting foot-hill flows the Juniata,
and turns about the point (at Colonel Martin's) in
such a way that on one side the direction of the stream
is opposite to that on the other ; and at one place three
miles from the Crossings, where the distance across
the ridge is only half a mile, the river may be seen
flowing in both directions. We continued the way we
had come, over Crossing-hill, Rays-hill, and Sideling-
hill, and spent the night at MacDonald's tavern, where
the coffee is drunk out of tin-ware, there are potatoes
to eat, and straw to sleep upon, and a prodigiously
dear reckoning.

Here we were introduced to still another domestic
tea-plant, a variety of Solidago.* The leaves were

what the President of Yale College, in Connecticut, relates in
an address recently printed. That is, an inscription on a rock
at Narraganset in New England, having long been matter of
observation ; was during the last war copied and sent to an
Academy in France by which the characters were pronounced
Phoenician." Sit fides penes auctorem.

* SOLIDAGO suaveolcns; foliis lanceolato-linearibus, in-
tegerrimis, acutis, subquinquenerviis, punctatis, glabris, tener-

304 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

gathered and dried over a slow fire. It was said that
around Fort Littleton many 100 pounds of this Bohea-
tea, as they call it, had been made as long as the Chi-
nese was scarcer. Our hostess praised its good taste,
but this was not conspicuous in what she brewed.

In order to visit the Warm Springs, so famous in
America, I parted here with Mr. Hairs, my travelling-
companion, and rode quite alone from MacDonald's
to Waller's on Licking Creek, and over Scrub Ridge
to the Cove, which I have already mentioned above.
There are here a few, but very weak and insignificant
salt-licks at the eastern foot of Sideling-hill, and
farther to the east not a trace of them. Licking Creek
gets its name thus. These ' licks ' appear only as
faint, standing ponds, which in warm weather evapo-
rate and leave somewhat of a salt-deposit. The soil
where they are found is said to be mostly a blueish
sort of clay. Something similar was mentioned to me
by Herrman Husband. He described salt-rock, as a
grey-black species of stone which according to him
is found wherever there are salt-springs and is every-
where the same.

The road to the Cove led over hilly and mean pine-
land. The Great Cove has the Blue Mountain to the
east, the Tuscarora to the north, the Scrub Ridge on
the west, and lies between these mountains 16 miles
long and 1-3 miles broad.

rime ciliatis. — Virga aurea americana, tarraconis facie &
sapore, panicula speciosissima. Pluk. aim., [Plukenet, Alma-
gestum], p. 389. tab. 116. f. 6.— A species similar to this grows
about New York, and has a pleasant odor of anise, noticeable
also in the plant here, but weaker; no doubt because it was
already late in the season and it had suffered from the cold.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 305

It is mostly Irish families who live here, and a few
Germans at the northern end. The land in the deeper
hollows and along Cove Creek is good, and bears all
the crops customary here. But this season the maize
had suffered from the cold. Particularly spelt is much
raised hereabouts, and is said to yield commonly 30
bushels for one, which is vastly more than their wheat
does. Their spelt is used solely as feed for horses,
for which purpose, unthreshed, it is certainly better
than oats. Also, at the first cultivation of fresh rich
land it is used in preference to wheat which on new
land grows too much to straw. The people believe
that spelt does not make as good or as white flour as
wheat, but the reason is the lack of the requisite shell-
ing-mills.

Now past the middle of September the leaves of
most of the trees and shrubs were beginning to fall,
and those still remaining on the trees have exchanged
all their summer-green for divers other colors. I
scarcely know more richly colored landscapes than the
American in their autumn attire. Of the multifarious
growths, some change hue earlier, others later, purple,
scarlet, pale-red, yellow, and brown through all their
shades. In among them berries and fruits of all man-
ner of tints make parade, and the indescribable number
of different species of aster and solidago, at this time
in full bloom, helps to embellish the splendid coloring
of this autumnal picture.

The entrance into the Cove is not so much by high-
ways as narrow ' bridle-roads.' In the Valley itself
they use, however, little wagons for farming purposes
furnished only with block-wheels, and these every
farmer can make for himself without great trouble by
20

306 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

sawing- disks out of fairly round timber-trees, and
boring a hole in the middle for the axle. To the south
the Cove is bordered by Canalaway Settlement whither
a pretended silver mine drew me out of my way. Two
miles from Canalaway Creek, near Stillwell's, was the
place where the work was carrying on. In the east
side of a hill they had sunk a shaft six fathom deep
which was already drowned out and they were at this
time engaged in drawing- off the water through a deep
ditch, which cuts through a heavy bed of coarse, black
slate, containing spath-veins and flecks of marcasite.
The real promoter of this work, one Christopher Bran-
don, was absent ; the owner of the land, Robertson, a
smith, who foots the cost, seemed a good deal vexed
at the continued failure of the ingots Brandon had
been a long time promising him. Six men were work-
ing there. They brought me some spath-crystals which
they called amber because, warmed or rubbed, they
said straws were attracted to them, but the experiment
did not succeed with me. This spar crackles in the
fire, but does not burn to gypsum, and seems rather
to be a talky spar or cauk. Here and there on the
surface of the hill there lay a sort of weathered, soluble
spar in the form of a hardened powder ; this they
called, on Brandon's authority, the leader, and on it
grounded all their hope of finding silver. The hill
runs from north-east to south-west, and consists of
the blue limestone breaking in thick scales. Over both
slate and limestone there is a thick stratum of iron
ore which at one time was soft, for iron tree-roots are
dug out of it ; that it to say, where this iron-ore in its
soft state had permeated such tree-roots, hardened
about them, and, after the roots had rotted, filled up

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 307

the space. A strong vein of iron crosses the slate from
north-east to south-west, in which are found large,
white marcasite-nodules and white quartz. With con-
tinued dry weather the slate shows a partly white,
partly green mould (copperas and alum), and the
water rising out of it has a strong vitriolic taste. The
people who were digging there knew nothing of what
sort of ore they expected ; they wanted silver straight-
way, and appeared very well content with the shim-
mering look of the marcasite. I alarmed them with
my conjecture that they would likely be digging long
and deep for silver in vain, and that perhaps, if the
slate does not lie too flat on the limestone, they might
find coals.

Canalaway Settlement has existed only 25 years, and
is already fairly populous. Most of the inhabitants of
this district are Irish families who almost everywhere
are indolent and unsystematic farmers. One can
imagine that they must farm scurvily when they are
blamed even in America, where in general agriculture
is not carried on to the best advantage. They cultivate
their land until it is quite exhausted, and then take
in a new piece of land, letting the old lie. Never think
of clearing up waste land and bringing it into cultiva-
tion, until driven by necessity. Are quite careless of
sowing or intending more than they think their
families will need ; and hence with much good land
are in danger at every failure of going hungry. Of
cattle they have plenty, but feed them badly and so get
little use of them. I am almost certain that the owner
of 200 acres of land lives very little better than the
owner of but 20 acres in Germany. However, they
live and live content, and appear to console themselves

308 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

for the conveniences they lack by the less labor they
expend.

Through fertile valleys and over a few barren hills,
consisting wholly of limestone soil and growing almost
nothing but white-oaks, I came to Hancock-town on
the Potowmack ; a small place begun shortly before the
war and numbering only a dozen houses. It belongs
to Maryland which province here runs very narrow,
for but a mile and a half from the town I crossed the
boundary-line, already hewn out of the woods, between
Pensylvania and Maryland, and the river which here
is as much as 2-300 yards wide forms the boundary
between Maryland and Virginia.

On the Virginia side it is six miles more from the
river to the Warm Springs, the road continuing
through limestone hills and their woods of white-oak.

Warm Spring Hill, a steep but not high mountain
running from north-east to south-west, consists of a
quartzose species of rock together with the already
often-mentioned laminated whet-stones (cos, grind-
stone, grit-stone). The lower hills on both sides the
valley contain species of limestone. The deeper, middle
part of the valley, in which is the watering-place,
shows something of iron ; on digging a cellar recently
a coarse sort of blood-stone or manganese ore was
found, which as it lay was neither rich nor heavy.
And almost everywhere digging is done near the
springs of this valley, a black slate is found which is
partly micaceous and also contains sulphur-pyrites in
pockets and flecks ; in other places jet-black and brittle
like coal ; and again splitting in fine plates and good
for every use. In this region there is said to have
been found an octahedral manganese ore (miner a ferri

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 309

octacdra), of which I saw a few specimens later at
Philadelphia.

And now for the famous water itself. This is
known by no other name than that of the Warm
Springs; but it is far from warm, not more than 14-16
degrees above temperate, or between 70 and 72 degrees
of the Fahrenheit thermometer. Thus I found it in
the morning at 10 o'clock when the sun was shining,
and in the evening after sunset. That it does not
freeze in winter is remarked as a great curiosity, and
this may be the reason why the name was given. The
water tastes and feels cool. It has no especially marked
taste ; closely observed, something like that given a
quart of water by a few drops of tartar emetick. It
contains no air or gas, is bright and clear, and shows
neither in the springs themselves nor in their outlets
any conspicuous deposit giving metallic constituents.
In short, but for its reputation it would be taken for
nothing more nor less than common smooth water.
It is said to have been tested by a Dr. Thomas who
found only about 4 grains sulphur to 4 quarts. The
water does not foam readily with soap. There are
8-10 different springs, which rise near together from
the foot of the above-mentioned hill. Of their efficacy
I can say little more than of their constituents. The
waters are recommended for old rheumatick com-
plaints, and for accumulations of the gall, and are
thought to be harmful in pulmonary diseases. The
patients who resort hither drink as much as they like.
It cannot be said that this water has any further effect
on the body than what would follow from any other
water taken in quantity, increasing the excreta. It
appears that force of habit and the mode, and the pro-

310 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

pensity for dissipation and change, attract more guests
to these springs than any established proofs of their
curative qualities. At Augusta (also in the farther
and mountainous part of Virginia, but 120 miles south
of here) there are also some springs, similar to these
in taste and content, but said to be greatly warmer —
so warm that it is unpleasant to bathe in them, so warm
that an egg (but only after 24 hours) becomes eatable
if immersed in them. At Augusta the houses are not
so numerous as here and therefore there are fewer
visitors.

The little place grown up about these springs is
called Bath-town, which is as yet in poor circum-
stances, made up of little, contracted, wooden cabins or
houses scattered about without any order, most of
them with no glass in the windows, being only sum-
mer residences. Not a building of stone, although
stone is to be had there in plenty. The place lies in
that part of Virginia called New Virginia, because as
a frontier and mountain region it was later settled ;
the land belonged to the well-known Scottish Lord
Fairfax, recently dead, who possessed great estates in
land here and about Winchester. This singular man
withdrew in his youth from his father-land, where
gifts of fortune and posts of honor were in store for
him, and retired to the solitudinous woods of America
to live his own life in his own way. A disinclination
for European pomp and the social constraints, and an
inordinate fondness for solitude and love of the chase
brought him to this region. His house near Win-
chester was of two rooms only ; he had another here
at Bath-town, whither he was accustomed to come for
the cure, which was the largest in the place, had four

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 311

rooms, and served as ball-room and assembly-room for
the guests at the baths. There were no other public
buildings here. Over the only spring used as a bath
there is a thin boxed covering, and other bathing-
places are merely stuck about with branches of trees.
The number of guests assembled here during the past
August ran to 560 ; but very few of them came for
their health or the water ; they seek society and dis-
traction, and make little journeys on horse-back of
2-300 miles, for frequently acquaintances living very
far apart have appointments fixed for Bath-town. At
this time there come many merchants and keepers of
taverns and boarding-houses, who stay during the
season to serve the guests, but these notwithstanding
find few conveniences here. The public amusements
are horse-racing, play, and dancing ; at the balls one or
at most two blacks supply the company with woful
horn-pipes and jigs. The inhabitants of the place
themselves possess almost nothing but their cabins
which they let to the visitors, living in winter on what
they can earn during the ' genteel season.' They are
besides very indolent and careless, so much so that
nobody has taken the trouble to set out gardens and
attempt vegetables and other things they need, but
they all prefer to bring in everything from abroad.
The season was now over + and the merchants gone ;
and at this time, what seems incredible for a place in
Virginia, not a pipe of tobacco was to be had in the
whole town.

Among the thin-shale sandstones lying about the
springs, I found by accident two showing plain im-
pressions of pectinites and entrochites ; I could find no
more and these which I had happened upon were un-
heard of wonders to the inhabitants.

312 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

The hill to the east of Bath-town contains shaly
sandstones, sandy clay, and coarse, reddish quartz ;
beyond are other hills of the same structure, tolerably
high, to the west ; and then the North Mountain which
here near the Poto\vmack is not high, consisting chiefly
of broken and barren hills, but still keeps its direction
unchanged from north-east to south-west. In the
valleys rough sorts of slate are found, the farms are
scattered, the cabins wretched, and the inhabitants for
the most part Irish. A few miles from Leek's Mill, I
again met with the grey limestone, in the great lime-
stone valley,* passed to Shepherdstown on the Potow-
mack, and across the river to the foot of the South
Mountain, where the road turns to Fredrick-town,
the whole way over limestone soil.

I was now again out of the mountains and might
hope to be somewhat less burdened with tedious ques-
tions which, while in the mountains, one must submit
to from every man. At bottom one cannot be offended
at the curiosity of these remote people, who very
seldom see strangers among them and do not know
all that goes on in the rest of the world, but it can
hardly be expected of the traveller that he should, with
the patience of a saint, allow himself to be examined
by every fool every day and all the time. Was it a
stone I picked up or a plant I broke off, some one
assailed me with questions. Are you a miner? A
goldsmith ? A doctor ? Are you buying land ? Where
have you come from ? How long have you been in the
country? Where do you live? Are you married?
How old are you? What is your name? Where have

* See above, p. 230.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 313

you been? Where are you going? How tall are you?
Besides this irksome questioning, they have a still more
tedious custom of getting everything, inquiry or
answer, repeated. For this purpose they make use of
a single word, nowhere else customary: Nan! — which
Nan ! is the first reply to anything said, no matter how
slowly or plainly ; and by Nan it is desired that what
has been said may be heard again, as if insidious ques-
tions or unconsidered answers were to be guarded
against — at least that is the semblance, albeit it is
nothing but ill manners.

In this limestone valley and in the neighborhood of
Shepherdstown, which place itself is not small, there
are a few other rather considerable towns, among them
Hagars-town or Elizabethtown already of importance.
It lies in Maryland and has much inland trade, and
many houses mostly stone. Winchester + stands to
the south of Shepherdstown, on Virginia soil, but is
smaller and still of insignificant importance. The
especial products of this region are cattle, grain, and
hemp ; and tobacco is gradually winning more place,
since, contrary to expectations, it grows well on the
rich soil of these mountains.

The Potowmack at Shepherdstown is pretty broad
and deep, however in the winter of 1781 it was seen to
freeze so fast that a part of Cornwallis's surrendered
army could cross in the morning with wagons and
horses where the evening before boats could still be
used. Four miles from the river one passes through
Sharps-borough, a small place only 17 years old; the
land-lord is the minister of the place. Here begins
the ascent of the South Mountain which is composed
of several moderately high ranges, the valleys fertile

314 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

and already a g'ood deal tilled ; the road passes by
many farms and through pleasant landscapes. The
species of rock of the South Mountain are quartzose
and gneissic ; in the valleys there is limestone. Mid-
way of the mountain stands Middletown, a little place
of perhaps 20 houses, 13 miles from Sharpsborough
and 10 from Fredricktown. The east side of the
South Mountain is a long and gradual slope, leading
to another broad, open, and well-settled limestone
valley, whence the several hills of the range have the
look of a low, undulating mountain-chain.

Fredrick-town. The inland towns of America are
in general little known ; it is the occasion therefore of
a very pleasant surprise to come upon a spruce little
place where it had not been expected. The country
about Fredrick-town is pretty level, without being
monotonously flat. To the west is the South Mount-
ain, sufficiently distant to present a pleasing prospect
to the eye ; to the east there runs another, parallel
range of low hills ; north and south the broad valley
lies open, in all directions well-cleared and rather thickly
settled. Good clay soil overlies the grey limestone,
and gives an excellent account of the seed entrusted
to it. The town was begun only 18 years ago, but
counts already some 2000 inhabitants and 300 houses,
has several good buildings, and is even adorned with a
few towers. The streets run regularly by the four
compass-points. Few of the houses are of wood ;
most of them are of limestone or brick, the brick being
preferred here, as making drier and healthier dwell-
ings. The area of the town was formerly the property
of the Delancy family. + But during the Revolution
the eldest of the family, by inheritance the land-lord,

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 315

declared himself on the side of the King, and so lost his
rights ; and the state of Maryland, on the payment of
a seven-year ground-rent by the residents, has ad-
judicated to them as their possession what they once
held under lease from the Delancys. The place can-
not yet boast of any especially important trade. The
inhabitants are engaged in crafts and in agriculture.
There are some iron-works and a glass-furnace in the
South Mountain, but the product of these is neither
good nor sufficient, not so much from lack of materials
as of workmen. There is no navigable stream in the
region near by; the Monocasy, a small river four
miles north of here, is of too little consequence, and
the Potowmack, eight miles to the south, is obstructed
there by the neighboring falls. Baltimore and George-
town, both distant only some 50 to 60 miles, supply
this place with what they need from abroad.

The greatest part of the inhabitants are Germans,
and the people are of all manner of religions ; those of
the English established church, the Presbyterians, Ger-
man Reformed, Lutherans, Catholics, and a few other
sects, have each their house of worship ; also there is
a Latin School here, and a handsome town-hall.

Dr. Fisher at Frederick-town (also Apothecary and
at the time Sheriff), told the following remarkable
story and all those present confirmed it. A farmer,
Jacob Sim, living 8 miles from the town, was eleven
years ago in the month of July bitten by a rattle-snake.
Every year since, in the same month of July, he has
fallen ill and feverish, the skin over his whole body
becoming spotted blue and yellow. Carver observed
something like this, and mentions that it happens com-
monly that after the bite of a rattle-snake not only the

316 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

wounded part grows swollen, but the swelling extends
gradually over the whole body, and makes it of as varie-
gated a color as the snake ; and further he speaks, as if
certain, of an annual return of the symptoms shown
in the first instance.* Everywhere I informed my-
self of the rattle-snake, and the copper-belly, (also called
moccason-snake), the bite of which is quite as poison-
ous. The different accounts given by the country-
people are of one accord that these noxious beasts are
much less numerous than they once were. In the
more settled parts almost all of them that showed
themselves have been killed, and it is not so dangerous
a feat as might be thought. The rattle-snake betrays
itself by the characteristical noise of its tail. The at-
tention is aroused and the snake is reconnoitred. It
seldom seeks to run off, but rears up in a posture of
defence. It may be safely observed at a distance, and
if stones or sticks of wood are at hand it is easy to
kill it or at least lame it so that it cannot glide or
venture any more dangerous springs. Precisely speak-
ing, the snake does not bite except with its mouth wide-
open, and springing, strikes at the object with its eye-
teeth, placed in the rear upper jaw. It does not follow
after, and is not easily roused to attack, unless come
upon suddenly in the high grass or the bush. Nobody
runs from it farther than is needful to get beyond the
danger of its first spring. It can spring scarcely
farther than its length, but can repeat its spring sev-
eral times, (this rarely happens), in quick succession.
For the rest, its gait and movements are slow. Even
children are not afraid to attack it with stones or

* Carver's Travels, English edit. p. 449, 450.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 317

sticks. The hogs, which everywhere run loose about
the farm and in the woods, are deadly enemies of
rattle-snakes, and eat them greedily. The snake strikes
at them in vain, either the poison has no effect on the
hogs or the teeth do not penetrate the fat skin. Many
of the snakes succumb to the fires, kindled either pur-
posely by hunters or new settlers, or neglected by
travellers. Snakes are said not to go out of the way
of fire, but to rear up and hiss until enveloped. The
copper-bellied snake is more dangerous and more
dreaded because it gives no warning but attacks in
silence. However, by no means every wound inflicted

* J

by the rattle-snake or the copper-belly is certainly
fatal. It is nothing uncommon to hear of persons
being bitten, but they seem seldom to die of the bites.
Different circumstances are to be taken into account,
through which the danger of the bite may be dimin-
ished or increased. It is generally regarded that the
poison of snakes in the -warmer parts of America, in
Virginia, Carolina, &c., wrorks more swiftly and more
dangerously. And that further, in one and the same
region, (and hence in the southern provinces) the
sharpness and activity of the poison are heightened by
the heat of summer, and thus a bite in the warm sum-
mer and autumn months is by so much the more dan-

*/

gerous. It is altogether probable that the exterior
heat may have an important influence on the fluids of
the snake, these being acted on differently according
to the heat of the surrounding body. And it is quite
as likely that something may be due to the corruptions
in the juices of the human body occasioned by the hot
season. From these reasons, then, snake-bites, espe-
cially in the autumn and in more southern parts, and

318 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

generally during the summer months cause worse
symptoms, but in the cooler seasons of the year, even
on cooler days of summer, are less dangerous ; which
is confirmed by Carver and others. And moreover the
greatness of the danger is in some sort determined by
the situation of the wound ; oftenest it is the foot or the
leg which is bitten, and at times the thickness of the
clothing, the boot, or the shoe, affords enough pro-
tection. Or it may be the poisonous drops expressed
on the entrance of the tooth are lost in the fat tissue
without being taken up into the blood. But should
the tooth strike a more important blood-vessel or lym-
phatick channel, the pernicious poison must be spread
more rapidly and surely over the rest of the body.

The general symptoms which follow the bite have
been described at length by Carver and by others be-
fore him.* The shivering which immediately follows
the wound may well be the effect of fright. Were
the circumstances not so various, the efficacy of the
poison, the activity of the wounded body, the con-
ditions of the wound itself, and the season of the
year, it could not be easily explained why so many
are bitten without the least ill consequences, others
recover after more or less significant symptoms,
and others (but rarely) succumb on the spot. Dr.
Garden saw a negro bitten in Carolina fall dead after
15 minutes. And without such a diversity of circum-
stances it would be impossible to make anything of the
great number of remedies, of all descriptions and often

* Descriptions of the snake, of the symptoms and remedies
are to be found in Kalm's account of the rattle-snake, Schwed.
Akad. Abh. XIV, XV; in Linnaeus, Amoenitates acad. Vol.
II, Diss. XXII. Radix Senega; and elsewhere.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 319

apparently trifling, which by one and another are
recommended as most excellent for the snake-bite. It
will not be superfluous to set down here the sundry
remedies for the snake-bite which in different parts
of the country were pointed out to me and praised.

They are as follows: Collinsonia canadensis (Horse-
weed). Cunila mariana (Penny-royal). Cynoglossum
virginicum. Hydro phyllum canadcnse. Convolvulus
purpureus (Purple Bindweed).* Gentianae species
(Sweet Bazil). Eryngium aquaticum. Sanicula cana-
densis (Black-snake-root). Ribes nignim. Hypoxis
erecta.^ Uvularia perfoliata. Pyrola maculata (Pip-
sissawa). Phytolacca decandra (Cancer-root). Asa-
rum canadense & virginicum (Coltsfoot). Spiraea
trifoliata (Ipecac). Actaea racemosa (Black-Snake-
root). Sangninaria canadensis (Blood-root). Tha-
lictri species. Ranunculus re pens & alii. Scrophu-
laria marilandica. Polygala Senega (Virginia Snake-
root). Hieracium venosum. Prenanthes alba (Dr.
Witt's Snake-root). Serratula spicata & squarrosa,
Solidago canadensis. Erigeri Species (Roberts' Plan-
tain). Aristolochia Serpentaria (Rattle Snake-root).
Quercus nigra (Black Oak). luglans alba & nigra
(Black and white Wallnut). Acer Negundo (White
Ash) 4 Vcratrum luteiim (Rattle Snake-root). Os-
munda wrginiana. Adiantum pedatuui. Hypnum
castrense. Of these divers plants the roots mostly are
pounded or ground and ordered to be laid on the

* With the juice of this plant, according to Catesby, an
Indian having smeared his hands took hold of a rattle-snake
and fingered it without fear or injury.

t Aletris farinosa (Star-root).

\Panax quinquefolium. (Ginseng.)

320 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

wound ; but of some, the leaves and bark also. Merely
the inner bark of the white oak is laid on the previously
scarified and salt-rubbed wound. Of the black and
white wallnut the inner bark is to be beaten and the
fibre twisted into a cord and this bound about the
wounded limb above the bite. The bark of the white
ash is burnt, the ashes made into a paste with vinegar
and applied to the wound, and at the same time a
decoction of the bark and the buds is to be drank.
But among all the above-listed plants the Aristolochia
Serpentaria and Polygala Senega have especially held
the general esteem ; and to these must be added the
Roberts' Plantain, which has been praised by several,
particularly the worthy Dr. Otto at Bethlehem, from
positive and often confirmed experience, having many
times been of excellent use where signs of the poison
taken up into the blood were already plainly manifest.
This plant, little known as yet, grows well in hilly
regions and is found in plenty about Bethlehem ; it is
raised there foresightedly in gardens, so as to be found
in the night if occasion arises. Its leaves have a bitter,
sharp, biting taste. They are applied, freshly crushed,
to the wound and often renewed, and also a decoction
made of them is copiously administered.

Another tried remedy was made known not many
years ago by Caesar, + a Carolina negro, who was re-
warded by the state of North Carolina with his free-
dom and a considerable sum of money. Having been
many times tried, the especial efficacy of this remedy
seemed to be admitted. It consists of the roots of the
Hoarhound (Marrubium album?) and Plantain (Plan-
tago major? vel lanceolata?). These roots are mixed
in equal parts, and three ounces of the mixture boiled

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 321

in two quarts of water until reduced by half ; the
patient takes a third of this decoction three mornings
together on an empty stomach. It reduces the symp-
toms, and if continued effects a complete cure. If the
fresh roots and simples are at hand they are pounded
and expressed and a large spoonful of the juice given
daily. Two spoonfuls are said to be sufficient for a
cure. The herbs and roots, after expressing or boil-
ing, are laid upon the wound, or as a substitute a leaf
of tobacco steeped in rum. Both of these plants are of
European origin and grow in America as aliens, only
in the settled parts and not in the wilds. How the
negro got a knowledge of them is not certain ; per-
haps through some European? — for both plants have
been of old praised and used in the treatment of wounds,
and besides, one of them, the Hoarhound (Marrub.),
has been greatly commended for the bite of noxious
animals and mad-dogs.

Among all the remedies used exteriorly the most
effective and reasonable are : the application of a liga-
ture immediately above the wound ; the sprinkling on
of salt and pepper, gunpowder, or tobacco ; timely and
repeated cupping, the searing of the wound, on the
spot or as soon as ever it can be done : these remedies
are now and again used with good results by the
country-people or by surgeons. And the fat of the
rattle-snake is at times rubbed over the wound, but
from this very little indeed should be expected.

A rattle-snake of uncommon size was killed in the
year 1778 in Redstone Settlement, a part of the above-
described Glades. It was 18 ft. long and the strip't
skin measured two and a half feet in breadth. There
prevails a tradition among the country-people in
21

322 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

America that a dog which has been bitten by a rattle-
snake always grows young snakes in his liver. Dr.
Bond of Philadelphia, on whose authority I am telling
this, made sport of a farmer who declared it to be so.
The matter came to a wager. A dog was to be three
times bitten by a snake and then, after some time, to
be killed. Dr. Bond and several other gentlemen were
invited out to see. There was plainly observed on
the dog an unnatural swelling in the region of the
liver. The body was opened and, to the astonishment
of the Doctor and of those present, in the superficies
of the liver a worm was found at least I and a half
feet long, and of the thickness of a little ringer ; sev-
eral others a foot long and 6-7 still smaller. It was said
that they showed a resemblance to the snake, but un-
fortunately they were not preserved. A second time
the same man sent to Philadelphia a dog bitten by a
snake. Dr. Bond opened, this one also, in the pres-
ence of several savans and physicians, and the same
kind of worms was found in the same part of the liver.
But nothing was done further to determine the nature
of these worms, the existence of which may have been
due to anything rather than to the snake-bite.

Among the snake-species often appearing in the
mountains as well as in the low country are : a Viper,
so-called here, (Coluber, scut abdom. 120-25 squam
subcaud. 50-53.) It is in length two feet and more.
The head and back are blackish-brown with whitish-
yellow spots some distance apart, passing into black
at the sides. The belly is yellowish-white with irregu-
lar blackish touches. Its habitat is in thick bush or in
gardens. Its bite is held to be poisonous. If it is
vexed, or in the act of striking, its cylindrically round

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 323

body becomes flattened. The Garter-snake (Coluber
T&nia, Scut, abdom. 145-48. squam. subcaud. 60-65).
It is some three to three and a half feet long. The
black-brown back is set off by three beautiful, pale
yellow, narrow stripes running from the head to the
tail, plainly enough distinguishing this snake. The
Green Snake which is also distinct by its color, and
does not grow large. The Black Snake, (Coluber
Constrictor L.), and several others which I had no
opportunity to examine closely. I saw a two-headed
snake on Long Island, preserved in spirits of wine ; it
was doubtless, (as well as that mentioned by Carver),
an abortment.

In the mountains one hears much now and again of
a Horn or Thorntail-Snake which has at the end of its
tail a horny sting with which it can not only give man
and beast fatally poisonous wounds, but can kill trees
struck by its sting. But in regard to this I have no
reliable evidence. Preserved in spirits of wine by a
New Englander I saw on Long Island a two-headed
snake. Carver also mentions one. They were both,
likely, abortments.

In a hill of the South Mountain, seven miles from
Frederick-town, silver was dug for a few years ago.
However nothing was found but lead and iron ; and
several enthusiasts, who had let themselves be con-
vinced, dug themselves penniless in the business.
After they had gone a considerable depth, no workmen
were to be had under 5-6 shillings ,a day and keep, and
the work was given up at a loss of some consequence.

From Frederick-town I passed, over the York-town
road, 1 1 miles north through limestone soil ; then
turned to the east over Rocky-hill, to reach the copper

324 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

mine lying back four miles from this road, owned by
Dr. Stevenson of Baltimore. The ranges of hills bor-
dering this limestone valley run likewise from north-
east and north-north-east to south-west and south-
south-west, are very low, and next the valley contain
a black, coarse, white-veined slate, mostly limestone
schist. Large fragments of quartz are numerous here-
abouts. Farther to the east there begins a greenish
species of slatey-clay stone, now harder and again
softer, observable until 16-18 miles this side Baltimore.
The covering of these hills is generally thin, reddish
sand and clay, showing small-stemmed trees, mostly
white-oak and sassafras. In the valley-bottoms there
are good meadow-lands and many fine farms. This
whole region was now empty of blooms.

There had been no work done for some time at the
copper mine. However, I obtained several small pieces
of ore. It was copper glass-sand ore with feldspar and
a talc crust. It is called here ' silver-grey copper ore.'
The stone in the rubbish was red feldspar with quartz
intermixed. A 10-12 fathom shaft has been sunk,
and a vein worked 16-18 fathoms in length. The ore
is found for the most part only clustered or in veins of
inconsiderable and very changeable breadth. It strikes
directly through hard rock ; no timbering has been
done therefore, but the work has had to be very slow
and costly. The ore was said to yield 75 in 100. It
was shipped raw to England. Dr. Stevenson had long
been offering a half interest for sale, having been at
great expense latterly for up-keep.

From the copper mine to Tutteral's Tavern (three
miles) there lay by the road greenish sand-stones with
reddish flecks, and at one place a bed of a blackish-red,

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 325

dense, and heavy species of stone which had the look
of limestone but was not so, being apparently a clayey
talky slate.

From Tutteral's, a solitary tavern standing by the
road, it is 39 miles to Baltimore. The road continued
east, over low hills, which lie in ranges running
mostly north and south with a few deviations. They
are neither high nor broad, with undulating ridges,
and all of them covered with the reddish sandy-clay
soil. A few autumn flowers excepted, asteres and
solidagines, there was nothing to be seen the whole
day but sorry cabins, barren hills, and unsightly woods.
The first 9 miles the greenish stones were still found.
The next 6-8 miles there appeared beautiful, white,
shining quartz, at first showing green veins or flecks
but farther on quite pure. The soil then changed more
to a red clay with small particles of mica. Near
Allen's mill, 18 miles from Baltimore, there began a
tract of pale clayey soil, very micaceous ; at this place
a rather high wall of quartz and mica mixed, or foliated
gneissic stone. Two miles farther, white clay full of
mica, and white quartz in fragments. Here the ob-
servation was again confirmed, which I had already
made in other parts of America, that mica is found in
greater quantity in the stones and soils nearer the sea-
coast, diminishing towards the interior country.

The last seven miles this side Baltimore there ap-
peared along the road fragments of a soft, coarse,
iron-bearing stone, more or less mixed with mica,
varying greatly in composition, hardness and color.
Some of these had the look of serpentine ; others on
the contrary struck fire on steel. They were all more
or less green. This greenish stone, which begins in

326 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

the hills before Frederick-town, seems to continue as
far as the neighborhood of Baltimore, sinking deeper
and deeper. Where wells are dug in that region the
green stone appears at various depths beneath the
overlying sand and other species of stone. At such
times also much greenish earth is dug up, which tasted
to me something like copperas. The same kinds of
greenish earth and stone are found along the Cone-
gacheag road, many miles out from Baltimore.

Notwithstanding the numerous hills it is plain
enough on coming from the mountains that one is
travelling over a surface sloping to the sea.

Baltimore. Rapidly as Philadelphia grew to its
present importance, Baltimore seems to have hastened
after. It is hardly thirty years since the town was
established, and already it may be counted among the
larger and richer American cities. It numbers almost
2000 houses, for the most part built of brick neatly
and conveniently ; and this number is very nearly
equal to that of all the houses in the remainder of the
province of Maryland. The inhabitants are estimated
at 12,000 and more (and again at 15,200). The ad-
vantageous situation of the harbor at the mouth of
the Patapsco river and at the upper end of Chesapeak
Bay, gave the first occasion for the founding of the
city. It is safe and commodious ; can ride ships of 17-
18 ft., and has the great advantage, placed as it is al-
most in the middle of the province of Maryland, of
lying near to a part of Virginia and Pensylvania, be-
tween the Delaware the Susquehannah and the Potow-
mack, and at the same time nearer and more convenient
for trade with the regions in and about the mountains
than any other of the cities on the coast. Therefore

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 327

Baltimore has already drawn to itself the whole trade

•*

of southern Pensylvania, that part lying this side the
Susquehannah, and also the greatest part of the trade
of back- Virginia ; because the inhabitants of these dis-
tricts (as well as those of the eastern peninsular and
of the whole of Maryland) find here the most con-
venient market and many willing buyers for their very
considerable produce ; for, Philadelphia excepted, there
are nowhere in that country so many merchants
gathered together, and ready to take up what is offered.
Old experience has been here recently confirmed, that
the more the commerce of a state is assembled in one
place, so much the more is gained for the common
good in manifold ways. The few merchants of the
province were formerly scattered here and there about
the country, and were in no position to carry on busi-
ness with energy ; as in some measure is still the case
with the state of Virginia, which had not, nor has,
any large trading towns, and continually looks to
foreign lands for the most of its needs. Thus Balti-
more, soon after its establishment, got to itself the
name of one of the most important trading-towns in
the whole of Chesapeak Bay. But nothing was so
favorable to the commerce of the place as the last war.
The situation of the harbor assured it against the

o

sudden attacks of hostile craft ; larger ships could not
approach without circumspection and danger, and
smaller dared not venture alone as far as the end of so
spacious a bay. So Baltimore became the general
depot of imports and exports for the middle part of the
American states. Dunne: the first vears of the war the

*

Congress for some time fixed its seat here. From
these and other causes, the population, the consump-

328 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

tion, and the number of magazines still more in-
creased ; more houses were built and house-rents rose
uncommonly high, as they are at the present time. The
extraordinary price paid for ground in the city is an
argument showing how profitable trade has hitherto
been and what is expected in the future. In several
places next the harbor each square foot of ground
yields a guinea a year in rent. I was shown a spot,
where a ware-house is just now building, 30 ft. front
and 30 foot depth, and the rent paid was 90 guineas a
year. There was building in all quarters of the town,
and at the same time care is taken for beautifying in
the items of pavements and lights. Work and activity
were to be seen everywhere.

The Point (properly Fell's point) is the south-east-
ern end of the town ; a narrow tongue of land ex-
tending into the Bay ; this part of the town being
distinguished by the water and masts surrounding it.
Here especially is all the shipping business done.
Whenever, according to the first plan, this point is
wholly united by buildings with the rest of the city,
the length of the city will be nearly two miles ; but at
this time a marshy channel still divides the two parts
and is neither ornamental nor contributory to good
health. In the harbor there were lying at the time
some 50 vessels, although many on the approach of
autumn had sailed with their cargoes. This is as
yet a free harbor ; ships pay only a very trifling duty.
By the Chesapeak Bay Baltimore has an easy com-
munication with the Eastern-shore (the peninsula
lying between the bay and the ocean) ; with the nu-
merous rivers and coasts of Virginia; and (by the Elk
river) with the Delaware, the distance being only 10

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 329

miles between ' the head of Elk/ the most convenient
landing place on that river, and Christiana Creek
which falls into the Delaware.

Baltimore exports chiefly : flour, maize, salted meat
and other articles of food, all kinds of timber, and
tobacco. For this last article there is an Inspection-
house at the Point to which all hogsheads for export
must be brought for examination and registry. In the
future the mountains will supply iron and copper for
export. The trade in flour to the Spanish islands was
during the war by far the most profitable. A barrel of
flour, costing perhaps four Spanish dollars, brought at
the Havannah 25-30-36 dollars ; and notwithstanding
many of these flour-ships fell into the hands of the
English there was a considerable profit if only one
out of six escaped the enemy and returned safe. The
war, which elsewhere had an opposite effect, was there-
fore favorable to the trade of Baltimore, proving,
among other things, how advantageous to the state
company-agreements may be. The dangers which
caused the individual merchant to fear utter ruin from
those numerous enemies swarming about the sea, were
diminished when many contributed to the fitting-out
of a vessel. The results of these combinations were
fortunate; Baltimore won a name, (and its merchants
wealth), and regard and merit in the eyes of the
country. For the considerable loans subscribed with
great readiness by the merchants here and at Phila-
delphia, formed almost the sole support of the ener-
vated Congress during the last years of the war, and
were the only means of maintaining the war at a time
when all manner of difficulties delayed the collection
of taxes, (insufficient for the needs of the state), and
made the prosecution of the war doubtful.

330 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Just at this time, however, the trade of Baltimore
and of the rest of America, is in an uncertain condi-
tion. The profitable trade in flour came to an end
with the peace ; and the prohibitions against the en-
trance of American vessels into their West Indian
possessions, issued by England, France, and Spain,
(a chance which America seemed hardly to expect
from the inimical Britain, and certainly not from the
amicable Gaul), must of necessity cause a certain
disarrangement in the commercial system here, plans
being thereby made idle which looked to the most
profitable outcome. However, the speculative and now
independent spirit of trade will shortly find new chan-
nels and new outlets.

The object of the merchants of Baltimore, as of
American merchants generally, is exports and imports.
They neither intend nor desire to be manufacturers,
and do not care to see such among them or very much
to encourage them. For the more wares are fabri-
cated in the country itself, so much the less would the
merchant have to bring in. Increase of the popula-
tion generally, and of the planters particularly, is their
sole wish, or, what comes to the same thing, increase
in the consumption of foreign articles and in the pro-
duction of domestic. But in any event the manufactur-
ing of the finer wares, requiring time and labor, would
be as yet a fruitless undertaking, since the price of
labor is so high, the working hands are so few, and
those few so lazy. Certain branches of the heavier
manufactures, however, such as glass, iron &c, might
always be set up to better advantage in the southern
states where negroes, whose work is to be had for so
little, could be made use of under the direction of a few
white men.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 331

The advantages which Baltimore has hitherto de-
rived from its trade, as the most productive source of
its prosperity, will arouse the envy and the imitation
of others. The city therefore cannot forever boast of
the exclusive trade of the Bay, and can scarcely con-
tinue to develope with the rapidity so far observed,
but from its situation it must remain always one of
the most important commercial places. Alexandria
and Georgetown on the Potowmack, and Norfolk at
the entrance of the Bay, (which during the war lay
in ashes, but is now beginning to revive), and other
Virginia towns besides are greedy for commerce, and
these must all do an injury more or less to the busi-
ness here, although they can never raise themselves to
a similar greatness. The merchants of Baltimore are
not careless of these things, and in order that their
trade may not be again distributed or seen to fall into
other hands, they have expressed the wish that a
' Board of Trade,' or commercial collegium, be estab-
lished, the members of which should have the capacity
and the experience to hit upon regulations for the
maintenance and strengthening of their commerce.

Soon after its settlement, the number of the inhabi-
tants of Baltimore was increased by many French
families who came hither from Acadia or New Scot-
land. This province having long since been given
over to England by the crown of France, all the French
families there remained in undisturbed possession and
in the full enjoyment of all rights and liberties along
with the other colonists newly brought in from Great
Britain. But they afterwards, despite of their oath of
allegiance, letting their secret and rooted enmity to the
English government and nation be seen on all occa-

332 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

sions, and even stirring up the Indians continually to
barbarities against their British neighbors and fellow-
colonists, it finally became necessary to take measures
for sending them out of New Scotland entirely, in
order principally to bring them from under the in-
fluence of Canada, (at that time still under the sceptre
of France), by the inhabitants of which they were in-
stigated to all manner of treachery. They were ac-
cordingly apportioned to other provinces of North
America ; the most of them came hither, where they
live together in a particular quarter of the town, the
most unsightly, they being in general neither well-to-
do nor enterprising, although they have the same ad-
vantages, rights, and opportunities as the other citizens.
A Roman Catholic church stands on one of the
heights outside the city ; where two other churches,
but half in ruins, are to be seen also. The family of
the Lords Baltimore, who formerly owned the whole of
Maryland, being of the Romish faith, there have been
long settled in this province a greater number of people
of that religion, although they had no especial rights to
the exclusion of others. At the time of the persecu-
tions which the Roman Catholics had to suffer during
the last century, many considerable families fled to
Maryland ; and therefore if genealogical registers were
of any use in America the greatest part of the Roman
Catholic families would have reason to be proud of
theirs, when very many others might be perplexed how
to give the history of their fathers and grandfathers.
It is supposed that the number of the Catholics, in
comparison with those of other beliefs, is throughout
the whole province as 3 to I. The Jesuits at one time
owned many fine estates in this province, and although

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 333

the Order itself has been abolished the priests of this
society are still in possession of their excellent and
lucrative lands.

All of the United States, on the establishment of
their new form of government, have made tolerance a
fundamental law, solemnly declaring that every in-
habitant has complete liberty to serve his Creator in
any manner to him seeming good, in so far as his re-
ligious principles are no disturbance to the public peace
nor detrimental to his fellow-citizens. Properly, there-
fore, in none of the states, particularly in none of the
more southern states, may any religion whatever be
called dominant, even if one or the other through the
majority of its adherents might so regard itself. Free-
dom is guaranteed to all alike. But before this revo-
lution the Episcopal or English established church en-
joyed the greatest advantage, its clergy (consecrated
by English Bishops) being supplied by the British
government with a constant and often very consider-
able support. This maintenance was furnished in part
by the publick treasury ; but also raised here and there
by special imposts, to which those of other beliefs were
obliged to contribute as well as members of the estab-
lished church. This was the case in Maryland, where
the Catholics in like proportion as the Protestants must
pay taxes for the support of the Protestant clergy ; a
circumstance which occasioned no little secret bitter-
ness. Then the Revolution put a stop to these allow-
ances on the part of the magistracy, and the ministers
of the established church had, under the new govern-
ment, no income except from their perquisites and
the voluntary contributions of their congregations. In
divers places, but not universally, it had long been a

334 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

regulation that considerable pieces of the best land be
set apart for the behoof of the church and its ministers,
the revenues so accruing being applied to their support.

' Glebes ' of this sort were in part occupied and
tended by the ministers themselves or they might let
them. In the tobacco colonies they often yielded grati-
fying returns. But where this is not the regulation,
the ministers of the established church depend chiefly
on the caprice and generosity of their parishioners ; a
circumstance which is the cause of no little vexation
to them, they seeing themselves now placed upon a
footing with the clergy of the other religions, of whom
formerly they had so greatly the advantage.

So it has happened that the clergy of the established
church in several of the provinces, but especially in
Maryland and just now when the Assembly is about
meeting, are zealously engaged in bringing matters
around again so that they shall not only receive their
allowances from the civil power immediately, but,
drawing a sufficient support from the public revenues,
that they may be independent of the caprice of their
congregations and have no further care in the matter
of the love and good dispositions of their parishioners.
These expressed wishes and proposals have been the
occasion of much debate in public and private assem-
blies. Similar proposals, it is said, were recently laid
before the Virginia Assembly, but by it were rejected
with indignation.

The following were perhaps the opinions most gen-
erally expressed in this business. When a state has
granted those of all beliefs whatsoever full, equal, and
impartial rights, they cannot then ask for more, and
have no ground of complaint. But was one or another

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 335

society of Christians, through special protection or
favor on the part of the state, to be preferred before
the rest, there would thus be sown abroad the seeds of
envy, emulation, disorder, bitterness, and finally, per-
haps, of murder and war. No religion conduces really
to evil ; but what is here and there laid to the charge
of this or that religion is to be ascribed either to the
oppression which in one country it was exposed to, or
the presumptuous pride with which in another it sought
to control. No religion being privileged, and the fol-
lowers of teachings the most diverse being held,
(through common rights merely civil), to good order
and the observance of the laws, the result will be that
the spirit of persecution, oppression, and hate will be
unknown. America has already experienced the woful
consequences of neglecting such maxims. The Presby-
terians of New England, having withdrawn from
Europe for the sake of freedom in religious matters,
were shortly thereafter observed to be so far deceived
by jealousy and the desire to dominate as to show quite
as much intolerance of the peaceable Quakers as that
against which they had striven in England and by
reason of which they had come away from their father-
land. In Maryland and Virginia, so long as the British
form of government gave the Episcopal Church pref-
erance, support, and a revenue, there were very similar
if not such violent manifestations. Numerous as the
divers sects in America are, the new states have not-
withstanding the weightiest reasons for granting them

CJ ^J *— * tJ

due freedom. For a great many years there have been
no instances, among the most opposite of them, of
dissensions and strife ; none having to control the
others, nor desiring to control, they were all at peace.

336 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

Was there disturbance, it was because one or another
had a special influence in the management and organi-
zation of the state. It has been remarked that almost
all the sects coming off from the established church
worked for independence with more unanimity and
determination than those which had a closer connection
with the mother-church, being often led off in that
way, and by their clergy who were paid by the old
government. Everywhere indeed obedience to the
civil powers was heard preached from the pulpits, but
different men had different ideas of the civil powers,
according as they looked to keeping or losing their
rich benefices. It is believed further that the clergy
is corrupted by inductions and fixed allowances ; in
free states, that is to say, the clergy would soon begin
to neglect their clerical business, mixing in worldly or
political affairs, or would be led into idleness and a
disorderly life. But it is not contended that the
laborers are not worthy of their hire, and that for im-
parting spiritual nourishment the servants of Christ
and of the manifold churches should not expect a bodily
support, only it is desired that the government in
America stand apart, leaving to the people and the
churches the determination of the worth of men, and
who they shall be, who are to receive a part of their
possessions as a willing remuneration for spiritual in-
structions given. The Government will assure these
men that they all may look for protection and gratitude
on its part, but for no privileges the one before the
other.

From this regulation, people persuade themselves,
there would (in America) arise many other advan-
tages. The clergy will be more active in the perform-

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 337

ance of their duties, and the most worthy, the greater
number likely, will be the better rewarded. There will
not be seen every day so grievous a contrast between
the preaching and the practice of ministers accepted
and paid without any control of their terms of service ;
nor will there be heard from a proud, domineering
priest exhortations to humility and abnegations un-
known to him, and no red-cheeked, over-fed bacchanal
will be recommending the virtues of moderation and
continence, equally beyond his ken.

The ministers of the established church formerly
paid by the state, who were sent over from England
to America, were seldom what they ought to be. They
were commonly held to be good enough for America.
At one time they were almost the only scholars in the
country, and they were expected to know everything;
but when people found out that they either knew noth-
ing, or of what they knew brought nothing into prac-
tice, this gave their numerous and increasing opponents
many and lasting triumphs, and opportunity always to
be marking down new blemishes in their doctrine.
And so it happened that they were frequently deserted
of their hearers, these joining in with other factions of
belief. It is known reliably that in Virginia and Mary-
land all the religious societies coming off from the
established church have been considerably increased
by those discontent with their teachers. In Virginia,
only 40 years ago, the proportion between the Dis-
senters and the established church was as I to 20;
but in the year 1776 the number on either side was al-
most the same.

The constitution of America regards all religious
societies, of what name soever, as arbitrary societies,
22

338 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

to which an equal rank, equal rights and liberties are
legally appurtenant. Therefore should the Episcopal
party succeed in bringing their church again into a
close union with the state (of Maryland), receiving
through the state a special place and maintenance,
from that moment all other religious societies would
be held to be merely tolerated Dissenters, and this
would be a grievous thing as well as an injustice.
Should one Assembly, the members of which belonged
in a majority to one church, concede this party-advan-
tage, the case might be that another Assembly through
a preponderance of other denominations would change
everything again. This would be a fruitful and fear-
ful source of continual strife and contention. Besides,
there are in this and other states many preachers as
well as congregations diversely denominated, who hold
themselves bound in conscience neither to receive nor
to give reward for the preaching and dispensing of the
gospel. Was then the government to agree to furnish
pay from the public treasury to the preachers of the
Episcopal church, a part of this burden would fall
upon these and other sects ; and it would be highly
unjust to make citizens pay for something about which
they have no concern.

These were very nearly the grounds of opposition to
the religious party-strife, recently stirred up by some
members of the Episcopal church. For the rest, so
long as in America itself they will have no bishops,*

* According to published reports this is now the case.

" In December 1786 the Right Reverend Dr White of Pen-
" sylvania and the Right Reverend Dr Provost of New York
" were consecrated at London, as bishops for the United
" States, by the Lord Archbishop of Canterbury. Dr Griffith

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 339

the clergy of the Episcopal or English church must
get their ordination in England.

Of the quantity of merchandise, which since the
peace has over-stocked the American markets, there
was one article apparently which showed no rapid
falling off in vogue, that is to say, Irish Servants.
Within a brief space many hundreds, men, women, and
children, have been brought hither, where they looked
to make their sudden fortunes, and to have their cost
for passage and keep paid by the Americans. Most
of these people were by false and illusory pretenses
inveigled into emigrating,* and they find themselves
deceived no little when on their arrival in America
the skipper compels them to bind themselves out for
several years to any person soever, who, on their mak-
ing good the cost to him, will set them at liberty. This
sort of Irish adventurers were at the time being offered
for sale in the newspapers everywhere, and were being
dragged about from place to place with this in view.
It appeared however that nobody would willingly take
up with the Irish, it being known from long experience
that from indolence they leave one part of the world,
so as if possible to live yet more idly in another. Ger-
man servants f always found a readier purchase, being

" of Virginia will be the third American bishop, so as to make
"complete the clerical organization of the Episcopal church
" of these states."

* So with the German traffick. Vid Schlozer's Briefwechs.
IV, no. 40. However the Irish, from the greater intercourse
between the countries, should be better informed of what
they have to expect, and less gullible.

t " Account of a German society established at Baltimore in
" 1783 by a Berliner, in the behoof of needy Germans who
" without due care have gone thither." In the Berlin. Monat-

340 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

generally regarded as industrious people ; they have
this character throughout America, and are every-
where welcome.

At Baltimore I had the pleasure of knowing Dr.
Wiesenthal, + a worthy fellow-countryman, an old Ger-
man physician. He has been here since almost the first
beginning of the town, and for his private character as
well as his attainments is generally esteemed. It is a
pity that his years and infirmities restrict his activities
too narrowly, already obliging him to take in a ' part-
ner.' This is a very usual custom in America ; physi-
cians form agreements like merchants, and it is no
matter if perhaps their methods are quite contrary ;
on the other hand, one gains at times what the other
loses and they share the profit in the end. Almost all
the doctors dispensing their medicines themselves and
keeping their offices at home, it is in this way a con-
siderable help to beginners, unable to set up for them-
selves, if they form a partnership with an older man,
whose practice they at first assist in caring for and
finally inherit.

I have already made mention, under Wyoming, of
the saltpetre prepared in America ; from Dr. Wiesen-
thal I received still further information, regarding the
natural saltpetre found in America ; and it will not be
inappropriate to bring together here all I learned on
that subject.

In the preface of the first volume of the American
Philosophical Transactions it is stated among other
things that the southern parts of North America are

" serif t. no. XI, 1786. — I knew nothing of this society at the
time of my stay in Baltimore, October 1783.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 341

so rich in saltpetre, or so favorable to its production,
that in sundry places it covers the surface in the form
of a rime, and that here and there in the mountains are
found ' mines of saltpetre/ During my stay in
America I had similar oral accounts, with the repeated
assurance that often completely developed saltpetre is
found in such places.

These reports coming neither from eye-witnesses
nor always from sufficiently well-informed persons,
credence could not be blindly placed in them ; and the
less so, because very recently the general opinion of
the chymists was unfavorable either to the existence
or to the natural production of a pure saltpetre, al-
though sundry travellers have affirmed that small salt-
petre-crystals, produced and shaped naturally after
rains, have been found on the surface of the earth in
Pegu, Bengal, and certain regions on the coast of
Africa, and that in India, Spain, and elsewhere true
saltpetre has been got from the earth without the aid
of ash-lye. These accounts are now confirmed by the
following similar discoveries made in America.

In Wyoming I was taken to a rock from which at
one time saltpetre had been gathered by scraping. A
loose, fine-grained, species of sand-stone, associated
with a considerable quantity of mica, lay piled in
couches of varying thickness. The color of the stone
was in part greyish, in part reddish, the stone itself
being of different degrees of hardness ; but on the
whole the side exposed to the air was the softest.
These rocks formed steep, rent walls, 25-30-40 feet
in height, and were the basis of a high mountain,
grown up in trees and bush, running along the Sus-
quehannah river. Many narrow, perpendicular clefts

342 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

cut the rock-wall, often filled up with quartz-veins but
oftener with stone of the same species as the cliff.
Along the horizontal fissures, or laminate beds, there
hung a white, tufted deposit which the people called
saltpetre, but which tasted to me more like natron.
This efflorescent deposit is restricted chiefly to those
places where the rock overhangs, and appears only
after warm and dry weather, being washed off by
moist winds and rains beating against. These rock-
walls were everywhere full of larger or smaller holes,
made by persons collecting the material for the prepa-
ration of saltpetre. Several such cliffs showing this
kind of exudation are to be found along the Susque-
hannah, up and down the river, and in consequence,
at the beginning of the war various saltpetre-boileries
were set up in the Wyoming region, but were given
over on account of the Indians or for other reasons.
Now this deposit and the scraped-off sand are said to
have been used in the preparation of saltpetre ; my
guide knew nothing of how the work was actually
done ; presumably ash-lye was used in the process.

Dr. Wiesenthal gave me more detailed and exact
information in regard to natural saltpetre-crystals and
saltpetre obtained without ash-lye. I give his account
in his own words :

' At the beginning of the American war the uni-
1 versal lack of gunpowder making it necessary to
' look carefully to what materials were to be found in
' the country, there were many projects published,
1 some of them impossible, others ill-considered, a few7
1 promising something ; until finally a man, who came
' from the Alleghany mountains, brought me a small
" quantity of saltpetre, mixed with some earth and

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 343

little stones, assuring me that he had got it himself
from the ' mine.' This material contained sundry
entire specimens of saltpetre, large as a bean, and
showing all the requisite properties. The general
opinion being that saltpetre is a salt only to be had
artificially, a mine of saltpetre was an important
novelty ; and since a few years before an account had
been received of such a mine, where from the high
price of labor the work could not be carried on, I
judged it worth the trouble to bring the matter to the
attention of the Government so as to get an investi-
gation set on foot. I was commissioned for the
purpose, and undertook a journey into the mount-
ains, where I first examined the old mine which had
been at one time worked. Here the stone got out
had been broken up in deep troughs with great
pestles, lye-soaked, and the lye boiled, and saltpetre
crystallized out, but not sufficiently to bear the costs.
This place is on the other side of the southern branch
of the Potowmack. I proceeded farther into the
mountains ; not far from Patterson's Creek wras the
place whence the nit rum nativuw had been brought
me, from a hollow, or cave, in a rock (perhaps 20-
30 ft. high) in some places 6, 8-10 ft. deep, and from
10 to 15 ft. wide, full of a light earth and many fallen
stones ; this hollow was grown over with trees and
protected from rain beating in ; inside I found many
: small clefts in and between the rocks, large enough
; to hold my hand flat-open, and filled with small, loose
; bits of saltpetre such as had been brought me. Of
1 this loose earth I took a bushel, leached it, and boiled
' the lye down to the half which on the following
( morning I found as if a thick brine, to the eye about

344 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

' as much as half the earth used. Then in order to get
' good crystals, notwithstanding this brine showed a
' crystal-formation, I made forthwith an ash-lye and
' poured it on, boiled it, and on its congelation ob-
' tained the finest and purest saltpetre-crystals. I
' showed the inhabitants there the manner of making
1 saltpetre, and had the pleasure of seeing that many
' tons were afterwards made, much of it indeed with-
' out the help of ash-lye. To convince myself plainly
' of this, I had brought from the mountains about I
' and a half bushel of earth, which merely by leach-
1 ing and congelation gave 49 and three fourths pounds
' of the very best and purest saltpetre, the same I had
' the honor to show you."

In the following month of December I had the
further pleasure of receiving information quite conso-
nant with this, from Mr. Riibsaamen in Virginia. A
great store of the richest saltpetre-earth is found in
sundry large caves in the mountains of Virginia, where
there is protection afforded from wind and rain. The
floor of some of these caves and clefts is made up to a
depth of many feet, wholly of saltpetre-earth ; no
attempt has been made to find how deep, because the
upper beds gave a sufficient profit. Mr. Riibsaamen
has not found any naturally crystallized saltpetre, but
the walls of these caves are often to be seen quite
covered with a white efflorescent deposit resembling a
thick salt-brine which has not had space to crystallize.
The rock in which these saltpetre-clefts were, is, (as
well as he can remember), a sort of coarse marl or
slatey limestone. The usage there, as commonly, was
to employ an ash-lye in the preparation of the salt-
petre. But from experiments of his own Mr. Riibsaa-

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 345

men is convinced that this earth merely leached also
crystallizes into pure saltpetre, but with the loss of a
third to a half of what may be obtained by the help
and addition of ash-lye. This is the case because if
the leached earth is boiled of itself over the fire, a
great part of the saltpetre-acid, fixed only in particles
of earth, escapes unused for lack of an adequate alka-
line basis. In the average there could be obtained in
this way 8-10 pounds of saltpetre from a bushel of
earth. No birds have been found in these caves and
clefts, although it has been the opinion of sundry per-
sons that the alkaline element of the saltpetre must
have been occasioned by the droppings of birds long
accumulated and rotted. To be sure, there were seen
the dens and excreta of bears and foxes, but in amount
insignificant.

During the war tobacco-stalks + were also used for
saltpetre. Several sorts of tobacco, on being burnt,
have the property of crackling and scattering sparks.
This sort, commonly covered with a white salt-dust, is
called ' Salt-Marsh Tobacco,' grows chiefly in low
spots in Virginia and Maryland and, on account of the
property mentioned, is extremely disliked by the
tobacconists. From two pounds of the rough stems of
this sort, not previously used, more than an ounce of
good saltpetre-crystals are obtained by leaching. The
saltpetre seems to lie ready ; other kinds, it has been
found by experiment, yield saltpetre only on the addi-
tion of ash-lye, and then but very little. It appears
also that certain kinds of soil are better adapted for
supplying the tobacco with active saltpetre, which is
the case with some other plants, as turnersol, fennel,
borage &c. Besides, the tobacco-warehouses and the

B46 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

hou-es in which it is dried, contain much saltpetre-
earth as well. But in the warehouses it is not the
upper layers of rotted and trodden leaves which yield
the most, but the earth lying somewhat deeper, and
this often without any ash-lye. Regarding the origin
of the natural saltpetre in the fore-mentioned mountain
parts, or how nature goes about to produce it, I will
not here form an opinion. The supposition that the
lixivial salt of plants can only be brought out by re-
ducing them to ashes has done much to sustain the
doubt as to the existence of a natural saltpetre. But
since it is more and more established by recent obser-
vations that nature without the aid of art can produce
a lixivial salt from plants,* and that this lies in part
already present in them f as well as in animal sub-
stances, there should be no longer any reason for as-
tonishment at the production of this pure saltpetre in
the mountains of America ; and the less so because it
can now and again be had from the aphronatron of old
buildings, old mortar, and old vaults. The observa-
tions of all chymists so far agree, that saltpetre is
hardly to be anywhere found except in earths or places
where there have been present rotted, (indeed en-
tirely rotted), plants or organic materials. Whoever
therefore has any knowledge of the wild mountains
and forests of America where for unnumbered years
mouldering trees and plants have lain heaped up un-
touched and undisturbed, and further, whoever con-
siders how in those wildernesses animals, serpents,
and insects live and die yearly in untold numbers, and

* Crell's Neuest. Entdeck. &c XL, 279.
t Ibid. XL, 149.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 347

how all this material through unknown ages, in a
warm climate and a moist soil, has been quietly ex-
posed to the most complete decay, to such a one cer-
tainly the development or production of an indescrib-
able quantity of stable lixivial salt should be no matter
of astonishment, provided the salt can be produced in
this way. But should it be admitted, (and should the
later discoveries continue to offer confirmation), that
atmospheric air itself stands in the closest relation to
the acid of saltpetre, these rich saltpetre-mines are at
once made explicable.

The zeal of the Americans in the preparation of
saltpetre for the needs of the war was at its height
during the first years of the war, before the French
fleet had made navigation and imports somewhat
easier. That before that time much saltpetre was
really made in the manner above-described, is quite
to be believed, but there were sufficient reasons why
afterwards the fabrication should have in great part
come to a stand. The workmen for this business were
dear, as for all mine-work, and during the war scarcer.
For although not everybody joined the army, and
many sat in comfortable and careless ease at home,

it

they were nevertheless unwilling to go into the mount-
ains to dig and boil saltpetre. And so the Congress
could never obtain it in sufficient quantity for making
the powder needed by its troops ; but so as not to let
the spirit of the people sink, casks were often filled
with black sand and despatched about the country and
to the artillery. The saltpetre prepared in the country
reached a high price ; and later, under the protection
of the French flag, saltpetre as well as powder could
be brought to America cheaper than it could be made

348 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

there. Before the war there were no powder-mills in
America. The American powder is said to be weak,
and not of the adequate effect. But this cannot well
be ascribed, as has been done in English journals, to
the faulty nature of their domestic saltpetre. Accord-
ing to these statements American saltpetre, which had
been used among other purposes for brining meat, had
shown injurious, corroding, and unhealthful properties.
Here and there indeed there may have been a failure
in the preparation, and the saltpetre not enough sepa-
rated from other salts ; but that which I saw at Dr.
Wiesenthal's was in appearance and to the taste alto-
gether fine and pure.

In productions of the mineral kingdom the region
about Baltimore is likewise not poor. There are found
there rich beds of swamp iron-ore, good sand-stones
fit for squaring, all sorts of clay-earths, fine white and
grey marble, soap-stones, shorl-crystals, several varie-
ties of breccia, and other species of stone, which I pass
over here having elsewhere * given a circumstantial
account of them. The flora of this region, judging by
what was still to be seen towards the middle of Oc-
tober, appeared to be very little different from that
about Philadelphia.

Several circumstances obliged us to spend a few
days longer in this neighborhood, and gave opportunity
for a little journey to Annapolis, the capital of Mary-
land, to Alexandria, Georgetown, and Bladensburgh.
The first six miles from Baltimore was altogether
through forest, mostly young wood. A forge near

* Vid. Beytfdge zur mineralog. Kenntniss von Nordamerika.
§22, 23.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 349

the Patapsco had for many miles around eaten up all
the wood, which was just now beginning to grow
again. Forges and other wood-consuming works will
at length be impossible of maintenance here, the wood
being taken off without any order or principle of
selection, and the second growth in this poor and
sandy country starting up slowly. The land would
have a still balder look, did not the forests consist
largely in sprout-shooting leaf-wood. Eight miles
from Baltimore we passed the Patapsco at a ferry, and
beyond the river kept on through monotonous woods,
very little cultivated land to be seen along the road.
The maize appeared everywhere in bad condition,
small, and thin like the soil ; and besides, late frosts
and the general dry weather had very much held it
back. The roads are, or are intended to be, kept up
at the public cost, but are nowhere well cared for.
The tendance is left to heaven. Bridges and ferries
we passed today were almost all of them impracticable.
So long as anything will do in a measure, people in
America give themselves no further trouble. The
country through which we came was hilly, showing the
same species of rock as that around Baltimore. We
arrived late at Bladensburgh whither it is counted 35
miles from Baltimore.

In two or three public houses at which we stopped
on the way we found much company. It was about
the time for the election of the new members of the
Maryland Assembly, and the curiosity and interest of
all the inhabitants were aroused. Already in private
companies the debate was over the business the new
Assembly would have to be concerned with. One of
the most important matters at their next sitting will

350 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

be the payment of debts owed British merchants. The
current opinions in this regard are as different as dif-
ferent interests, and disposition or aversion to Eng-
land, can make them. There were those who plausibly
sought to show that the payment of debts contracted
under the old government cannot justly be demanded
now under the new, and that all debts except those
made for the Revolution are to be regarded as ex-
tinguished. For by the Revolution the old form of
government, and everything dependent on it, has been
co ipso annulled, done away with, and made of no
effect ; the political constitution is transformed, and
the people have therefore ceased to be what they
formerly were ; the obligations of debtors to their
creditors, existent under the old government, must
therefore cease to be valid and lawfully binding. But
under the new constitution of the state there arise
new social rights, under which each debtor is con-
firmed in the exemption become effective through the
abolishment of the old constitution. The senseless
and conscienceless nature of these propositions needs
neither explanation nor contradiction, but much pains
have been taken to establish their validity and to
spread them abroad for acceptance through news-
papers and special pamphlets. It is always unpleasant
to pay old debts, and it is plainly enough to be ob-
served that all the reasons are being diligently sought
out why the obligation should be set aside. The only
members of the next Assembly, of whom it is to be ex-
pected that they will vote for the payment of the
British debts, are the members for the city of Balti-
more ; it will certainly be incumbent upon them to
press the settlement of the old debts, because otherwise

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 351

the merchants there will be little likely to find new
credit in Great Britain ; old debts being paid, as the
custom is, so as to make new ones. But the next diffi-
culty is the question : how are they to be paid ? Many
of the old debtors are now dead ; others are ruined ;
and it is held that such debts must be borne by the
community, because by the peace-conventions the obli-
gation was assumed of paying all British debts without
exception. This proposition is zealously supported by
most of the merchants, who desire to see the total
debt, (to be regarded now as an obligation of the
whole state), paid by a generally imposed tax, hoping
that in this way the sums they owe may creep in with
the rest. Naturally the people in the country, upon
whom the burden of the tax would fall, are not of the
same opinion, although they themselves have borrowed
again of the merchants what these have borrowed in
England. From everything which has been said for
and against, it is plain in advance that there will be
very little disposition to assume these debts as a com-
mon burden. The result will prove this.*

Bladensburgh, — a small place on the eastern branch
of the Potowmack (here navigable only for boats and
shalops) has a tobacco-warehouse and inspection-
office. These tobacco-warehouses are, equally for the
planter and the merchant, convenient and safe public
institutions. They are distributed at suitable distances
on all the rivers and little bays in Maryland and
Virginia. Thither must the planters bring and deposit
all their tobacco before they can offer it for sale.
Responsible superintendents carefully examine the

* Has proved it. Little or nothing has been paid.

352 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

tobacco which is brought in, and determine its quality.*
The damaged or bad is condemned and burnt ; but
that which is good and fit for sale is taken in and
stored, and the owner is given a certificate or note
showing the weight and the quality of the tobacco
delivered. The planter sells this tobacco-note to any-
body he pleases, without showing samples of his tobacco,
and the purchaser, even if many miles distant, pays
the stipulated price without having seen the tobacco,
the inspectors being answerable for the quantity and
quality by them stated. The merchants take these
notes in cash payment for the goods which the planters
get from them ; they are counted as hard money
throughout the province, and for that reason are often
tampered with, of which there have been recently 3-4
instances : however, the management is such that the
cheat cannot stand or go long undiscovered. By this
excellent and convenient regulation it was the case
even under the British rule that in Maryland and
Virginia no paper-money was necessary, without
which, as early as that, the other provinces could carry
on no internal trade. The Acts of Assembly contain
many long-drawn laws touching this branch of trade,
the ordering of the warehouses, oversight, inspection,
and export of tobacco.

* The Maryland and Virginia tobacco-planters distinguish
between several varieties of tobacco, according to the growth:
as Long-green, Thick-joint, Brazil, Shoestring &c. But in the
warehouses for the most part only two sorts are made out,
that is, Aronokoe and Sweetscented. The latter is known by
its stalk and better smell, and is on that account preferred;
it is raised in greater quantity in Virginia than here, in the
lower parts along the James and York rivers ; the Aronokoe
is commoner in the upper regions of the Chesapeak Bay and
on the inland plantations.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 353

The tobacco, before it is brought to the warehouse,
is packed by the planters in hogsheads ; and these, for
the more convenient storage on shipboard, must all
be of a prescribed breadth and height ; the weight of
the tobacco contained must be not less than 950 pounds,

»

but more than this as much as they please ; and really
as much as 1500 to 1800 pounds are often forced into
the hogsheads. The heavier they are so much the
better for the merchants, four of these hogsheads, of
whatever weight, being reckoned a ship's ton and pay-
ing a fixed freight, since the freight on vessels is
counted by the space the goods take up and not by their
weight.

The price of tobacco stood at the time at 29-30-32
shillings Pensylv. Current the hundredweight ; during
the war it was 35 shillings, or a guinea, and more ;
but at the last, when export was extremely difficult,
hardly 18-20 shillings. The freight for a ship's ton,
or 4 hogsheads, is now 7 Pd. sterling to England, or
35 shillings the hogshead. It was estimated that
shortly before the war Maryland exported about 70,000
and Virginia about 90,000 hogsheads of tobacco ; and
was each rated in the average at only 10 Pd. sterling,
it is a very considerable amount which these colonies
gained yearly by this plant alone.

The planting of tobacco is a special branch of agri-
culture, requiring much trouble and attention, and in
many ways exposed to failure. There are but few
planters hereabouts who make more than 15 hogsheads
in a year; most of them not over 5-10. An acre of
land, if it is right good, produces not much over a
hogshead. In Maryland there is far less tobacco
raised than formerly ; particularly because of the dis-
23

354 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

quiets of the war and the more profitable traffic in
flour, many planters have been led to give up the
culture of tobacco and to sow grain instead.

Hard by Bladensburgh there is a spring which has
a strong content and taste of iron, and upon which the
inhabitants have imposed the splendid name of Spa.
Similar iron-waters are nothing rare in America ; but
neither in these nor in others observed by me, have I
been able to remark any fixed air.* Nor have I
learned of any curative springs supplied with any sort
of salt, if I except those yielding kitchen-salt, found
in and beyond the mountains.

The situation of Bladensburgh is unhealthy, among
swamps which surround it on all sides, and every fall
obstinate fevers spread among the inhabitants of the
region, which on the other hand is rich in manifold
beautiful plants. Negroes are beginning to be more
numerously kept here, and the people show already a
strong tincture of southern ease and behavior. Also
several plants are grown here which farther to the
north are scarcely seen. Cotton-wool (Gossypium
herbaceum) and sweet potatoes (Convolvulus Batta-
tas) are raised by each family sufficiently for its needs.
The blacks raise ( Been-nuts ' (Arachis hypogaea) ;f

* However, a spring in the county of Botetourt, said to con-
tain iron and much atmospheric acidity, is mentioned in the
second volume of the Amer. Philos. Transact.

t This plant, with a few others of the same class, has the
rare property of burying its seed-pods in the earth. The
bloom appears far down on the stem, and inclines towards the
earth, in which the pistil buries itself, and matures round
husks with 2-3 seeds, which are dug out for use.

Its origin being in a warm climate, it is not easily trans-
planted farther north; even in England attempts have been

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 355

this is a pretty hardy growth, which at all events stands
a few cold nights without hurt. The thin shells of
the nuts, or more properly the husks, are broken, and
the kernels planted towards the end of April in good,
light soil, perhaps a span apart. They must then be
diligently weeded, and when they begin to make a
growth of stems all the filaments or joints are covered
with earth. After the blooming-time, the pistils and
young seed-cases bury themselves in the ground and
mature under the earth which is continually heaped
upon them. The kernels have an oily taste, and
roasted are like cacao. With this view the culture of
them for general use has been long recommended in
the Philosophical Transactions, and the advantages of
making this domestic oil plainly enough pointed out,
but without the desired result. The wild chesnuts

made without result. In more southern countries it flourishes
astonishingly, and it is all the more valuable because it does
not require the best land, but prefers a thin, light, and sandy
soil. Besides what the negroes raise for their own use, planters
here and there in the southern colonies cultivate great quan-
tities of them to fatten their hogs and fowls, which gain
rapidly on such feed.

It is believed to be originally an African plant which was
brought to the American colonies, particularly the sugar colo-
nies, by the negro slaves ; the blacks are very fond of them,
and plant them industriously in the West Indies, in the little
patches of land left for their use.

The oil made of these nuts is especially recommended for
keeping long at a great heat without becoming rancid. To get
a completely pure and good oil, no heat should be used in the
pressing. From a bushel of the seed, costing in Carolina not
much over I or 2 shillings sterling, nearly 4 quarts of oil are
obtained. In some parts they are called also ' ground-nuts '
and ' ground-peas.'

356 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

growing so generally in all the forests might yield a
fruit quite as useful for the whole of America. It is
known that in certain parts of Europe the chesnut is
of almost as important a use as the jaka, or breadfruit-
tree. The native chesnut-tree is found everywhere in
America but is not regarded except as furnishing good
timber for fence-rails. Its fruit is indeed small, dry,
and inferior in taste to the European great-chesnuts,
but in Italy these are had only from inoculated trees,
the fruit of the wild chesnut there, as in America, be-
ing neither large nor agreeable in taste. By inocula-
tion, then, there could be had quite as fine great-ches-
nuts here. But without that, on account of its great
usefulness this fruit has received some attention
from the Americans who eat it boiled and roasted, con-
vert it into meal and bread, and fresh-shelled and
ground use it as a kind of soap with plenty of water.

Unfavorable weather and the hope of finding in the
swamps along the several branches of the Potowmack
certain other particular seeds or plants made our stay
here also a few days longer. But we found very little
we had not seen. However we were fortunate enough
here to obtain a stock of acorns and nuts which else-
where had failed. These with some other seeds we
shipped on board a brigantine bound from George-
town to London, but which never came to port.

The family with which we put up at Bladensburgh
was quite American in its system, according to which
everything is managed regardless. When it was dark
they began to bring in lights ; when it was time for
breakfast or dinner the blacks were chased about for
wood, and bread was baked. In no item is there any
concern except for the next and momentary wants.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 357

Whoever travels in America will observe this daily.
For the rest, we lived in cheerful harmony, with two
tailors, a saddler, a shoemaker, a Colonel, and other
casual guests. A lady with a high head-dress did the
honors at table, and three blacks of the most untoward
look and odor were in attendance. Our European
ladies would be horrified to see about them negroes and
negresses in a costume which starts no blush here;
and besides, the disagreeable atmosphere would in-
evitably cause them vapeurs.

Eight miles from Bladensburgh lies George-town,
a small town by the Potowmack. As far as this the
river is navigable, and this gave occasion for the es-
tablishment of the place from which at one time much
was hoped. There is a tobacco- warehouse here ; and
at one time the place had a good deal of trade, but this
was wholly in the hands of English merchants, who
had warehouses here and took out tobacco. On the
outbreak of the war they deserted the place, and
poverty has since been its lot ; for nobody among the
inhabitants had capital or credit enough to set up trad-
ing. This autumn there came in a few English and
French ships to take out tobacco. The banks of the
river, on which the town stands, are high. Three
miles from here, up the river, are the lower, little falls,
and 10 miles above them, the great falls of the Potow-
mack. The fall of the river is some 130-150 ft. across ;
at one place only is there a plunge of 15 ft. perpendicu-
lar height. The noise of the fall is with still weather
heard for a good distance. Just at this time means are
devising to make this fall navigable, either by weirs
or by blasting, or at least to establish convenient port-
ages ; which would be vastly advantageous for the

TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

country along the river towards the mountains and for
this place itself. But to all appearance the carrying-
out of these fine but costly plans will not be so soon
accomplished. Between the little and great falls many
fish are taken, or at least might be ; for here the fish
coming up from the ocean find a non plus ultra, and
crowd together in great masses. Between this place
and the opposite Virginia shore the breadth of the Po-
towmack is half a mile. A grey species of stone, very
micaceous, strikes through the region from north-east
to south-west ; the same is found likewise about
Bladensburgh and Alexandria ; it is the continuation
of a similar but blacker stone seen about Baltimore,
and belongs to the first granite line extending along
the eastern coast of North America. On both sides the
high banks, and for some distance from the river, sand
and rounded pebbles are the commonest soil, which
therefore is not the most fertile. Iron-ore occurs
everywhere at the surface, in many forms. To its de-
velopment here a sort of rough breccia (' budding
stone ') has contributed the most, cementing together
coarse sand and pebbles. This is the case almost every-
where in the sandy hill-country of the coast, where
more or less iron-bearing earth is found distributed
under and in the upper strata. From many circum-
stances, may it be almost believed that the plant-king-
dom has had a share in this phenomenon? The depth
of the bed of the Potowmack as well as of the other
rivers in America, and the unmistakable traces of their
former higher-lying, shallower, but wider channels,
give continually weighty evidence for the great age of
the continent of America.

We crossed the river, going to Alexandria, whither

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 369

along the opposite bank it is reckoned eight miles ; the
road is level and proceeds through long woods, among
which only a few tobacco-fields are to be seen. All the
fences were hung with the freshly pulled tobacco-
leaves, so as to let them wilt a little before taking them
to the drying-houses proper.

It is known throughout America that the common
sort of people in Virginia speak markedly through the
nose ; and it is not imagination that we could already
observe this on the way to Alexandria. But a great
part of the New Englanders are also given to this
habit, which is at bottom nothing but custom and
imitation.

Alexandria, formerly called Belhaven, was settled
later than Georgetown but grew incomparably faster.
Like Georgetown it stands on the high and almost
perpendicular banks of the Potowmack, which for the
great convenience of shipping not only ebbs and flows
at this place but also somewhat about Georgetown.
From Alexandria to the mouth of the Potowmack,
where it falls into the Bay, the course of the river is
about 150 miles ; and it is as far again from its mouth
to the bottom of the Bay ; thus from here ships have
some 60 German miles to sail before they reach the

j

ocean. The situation of the town is, as said, not only
very high towards the river, but rather elevated above
the surrounding country, open and agreeable and better
placed for defence, should the necessity arise, than
many other Virginia towns. The streets are straight
and there are some 200 not unpleasing houses ; the
number of the inhabitants may be about 2000. This
was next to Norfolk, even before the war, one of the
wealthiest and most respectable towns in Virginia ; its

360 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

trade was flourishing and apparently is reviving again.
Ships of all sizes are vigorously building there, and
the carpenters are so greatly employed that they are
not to be hired for less than two Spanish dollars a
day. Many new buildings, wharves, and warehouses
have gone up within a brief space, and new settlers are
every day coming in, drawn by the activity of trade in
which item Alexandria will perhaps in future, as
hitherto, have the advantage of all other places on the
Potowmack. However, the complaisance of the mer-
chants has been recently somewhat disturbed by the
stoppage on the part of Great Britain of all trade be-
tween its West India islands and the United States.
A striking proof of the overweening and unreasonable
expectations and demands of the Americans is, among
other things, shown by the loud protest they have
raised over this restriction of commerce. Having vio-
lently withdrawn from the British Empire they could
still expect, now as before, to enjoy all advantages of
trade equally with British subjects, could flatter them-
selves that Great Britain, (although plainly to the
greatest injury of its Canadian and Nova Scotian
colonies), must allow them an open competition in
trade. Provisions are cheap but for that reason not
always to be had, the price being so insignificant that
people hardly take the trouble to bring what they have
to market ; for the same reason fish are a rarity al-
though the river teems with them. The country-houses
of the surrounding region are almost all built on
heights ; at present this is more a consequence of
vanity and usage than anything else, (notwithstand-
ing the first occasion was a necessary concern for
health in the avoidance of low and swampy spots),

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 361

for such a situation has this inconvenience, that often
they must go miles for fresh water. On the contrary
the Pensylvanians and others build their dwellings as
near to springs as possible, and for a fresh drink
forego the pleasure of freer air and a finer outlook.

Returning from Alexandria, by Georgetown to
Bladensburgh, we found the road vastly more lively,
since a crowd of horsemen and their attendants were
hastening from all sides to Alexandria for the races
which were shortly to be held. At Georgetown we saw
en passant a case at law being decided on the tavern-
porch. Judges, spectators, plaintiffs, defendants, and
witnesses sat on the bench before the door, disputing
and drinking. The matter appeared to be of no par-
ticular consequence, and was being adjusted more in a
friendly way than by legal process; the costs, to the
satisfaction of everybody, were placed with the host for
punch.

We were by chance made acquainted with the pecu-
liar manner in which the laws of Maryland and other
provinces protect the citizen under charge of debt. To
be sure, the creditor on his complaint has from the civil
authorities an order for the arrest of the debtor, but
at the same time the debtor, as far as he can, is allowed
to make sport of the order and the creditor. The arrest
of a bad debtor must be made by the Sheriff ; but the
Sheriff, even if he has the warrant in his pocket, may
not open the door of the house or of the room in which
the debtor is; may not raise the latch, although the
door is not otherwise barred or closed. He must seek
to enter the house by an open door and execute his
order, or to take the debtor into custody in the street,
if he lets himself be found there. But since it is a

TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

simple matter to guard one's house-door against the
Sheriff so that he shall never find it open, there are
numerous examples where debtors and bankrupts, sub-
ject to arrest, have in this way kept up a voluntary im-
prisonment in their houses for several years. In this
condition they can carry on at home any sort of trade
or craft without fear of disturbance ; but by this in-
dulgence of the law (and this is really the object of the
law) it happens that many recover themselves, gain-
ing time and finding expedients, who else in debtors'
prisons would go to ruin, through loss of time and in-
terrupted business, even if they had not been broken
already. On the Sunday these voluntary prisoner?
may go at large where they please ; on the Lord's day
no Sheriff may touch them even in the open street.

Another example of the indulgence of these laws is
the following : A man at Bladensburgh made proposals
of marriage to a woman, then changed his mind of a
sudden, and married another. Not long afterwards he
repented at having jilted the first, took her to himself
along with his first-married, and has lived with both
for several years ; both have children by him, and,
what is more important still, they behave themselves
in a very sisterly manner. None of the neighbors is
offended with him, and no civil officer makes inquiries^

With sorrow I observed at Bladensburgh two strik-
ing instances of the sad custom, indulged in without
thought or conscience almost throughout America, I
mean the evil habit of giving the tenderest children and
sucklings spirituous and distilled drinks. This hap-
pens partly with a view to relieving them of windiness
and colicks, regarded as the sole causes of their im-
portunate crying, partly (and this is absolutely without

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 363

excuse) to make them quiet and put them to sleep.
Spirituous drinks being so universally in use, nobody
thinks it harm to give them to children as well, and
no attention is paid the bitter injury done their health,
and how frequently there is occasion given in this way
for internal disorders and consuming diseases. I had
many opportunities to convince myself of this, and saw
many of our German women killing their children by
this practice, who following the advice and the custom
of the American women would on all occasions be giv-
ing .their children quantities of rum, spirits, anise or
kummelwasser, and only to stop their crying. Besides
the injury immediately done, the worst feature of the
practice is the taste acquired in this way for brandy
and grog. Our host's five-year-old child seeks to get
hold of rum or grog wherever he can, and steals fur-
tively to the flask ; we saw him almost every day stag-
gering and drunken ; he was besides weak and thin as
a skeleton, just as another very young child of a
neighbor, addicted to the same vice. The parents
observed this but were at no pains to prevent it ; and
the servants and other people appeared even to be
amused at the drunken children and to egg them on.
In general, children are badly brought up among the
Americans, living sporadically as they do, and the
servants here being only negroes, ignorant, careless,
and immoral, many evils are the consequence.

We returned by Annapolis, whither it is 30 miles
from Bladensburgh. The road lay at first over thin,
sandy hills, and then we came into a flatter country
where the sand is mixed with a large proportion of
good, black earth, producing excellent corn, wheat,
and tobacco. This is a most vexatious road for travel-

364 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

lers, from the endless number of cross-bars and gates
encountered, every landowner not only fencing in his
fields, meadows, and woods, but closing the public high-
ways with bars, to keep in the cattle pasturing on the
road. Thus it was that in the short space of a mile we
often had to open 3-4 such gates, and with a horse un-
accustomed to the practice this must always mean a
delay.

We passed through Queen- Anne, on the Patuxent
(a narrow stream) where there is a tobacco-warehouse
and two or three insignificant houses, and 9 miles be-
yond came to New London on the South river, which
is more than a mile wide ; the remainder of the road to
Annapolis was quite flat, sandy, and without stones.

Annapolis has not always had the honor of being
the capital of Maryland ; the capital was formerly St.
Mary, on the river of that name, and scarcely more
than in name does the town exist ; the site was found
inconvenient and the seat of government was removed
hither. Annapolis stands between the South-west and
Severn rivers, more properly on the latter river, on a
sandy height whence there is an open prospect towards
the Bay. The number of the houses is about 400, of
which some are fine and well-looking. The State-
house indeed is not the splendid building of which the
fame has been sounded, although certainly one of the
handsomest in America ; but no less insubstantial than
most of the other publick and private buildings of
America. That it pleases the eye is due to its elevated
situation, its small cupola, its four wooden columns
before the entrance, and because no other considerable
building stands near it. It has only seven windows in
front, and is built of brick two storeys high. The

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 365

large hall on the ground-floor is tasteful, although
not spacious. At the other end, facing the entrance,
as is customary in State and Court-houses, there are
raised seats in the form of an amphitheatre designed
for the meetings of the high courts. For the rest, the
building has space enough for the rooms of the Pro-
vincial Assembly, the Senate, Executive Council, Gen-
eral Court for the Eastern-Shore, Intendant for the
Revenue &c. Next the State-house is a little building
of one storey meant for the publick treasury. It is
said to be a very strong and fast building; doors and
windows I saw well-barred and fixed — but with all
this the house is empty. The real Treasuries of this
province, throughout the war, were the tobacco-ware-
houses ; the taxes for the most part being assessed and
paid in tobacco and other produce, because the people
had no hard money and unfortunately have none still.
At one end of the town stands the house in which the
Governor lives, but another building, of an extensive
plan and designed for the Governor's residence, was
before the war begun by Governor Blagden, but not
finished, the Assembly judging the plan too costly;
the bare walls remain, known as the Governor's Folly
in memory of him. The streets of the town run almost
all of them radially towards a common central point
which is the State-house. They are not yet paved, and
with the sandy soil this occasions great inconvenience
in summer. Annapolis boasts of a play-house but of
no church, as indeed in everything regarding luxury
the town is inferior to no other and surpasses the most.
Shortly before the war money was collected for build-
ing a very handsome church, but the amount was later
applied to bloody purposes, and worship since has been

366 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

held partly in the State-house, partly in the play-house.
The situation of the town has been determined as 39°
25' latitude and 78° longitude west of London. There
is little or no trade, which is to be explained both by
the site and the character of the harbor. The roads
leading into the interior are crossed by divers streams,
and the inconvenience arising from so many passages
by ferry has brought it about that the people prefer to
bring their produce to Baltimore and fetch thence what
they need, which they can do by unbroken land-car-
riage. The harbor, into which fall no fresh streams of
any significance, is full of worms, which live only in
salt water, and these in a few months eat through the
ships' bottoms and render them useless. At this time
there was not one ship of consequence here, but merely
small craft ; and the merchants of the place themselves
get the most of their stocks from Baltimore. How-
ever, the harbor is spacious, and its mouth, (not over
4-500 yards wide), easy of defence.

The form of government of the state of Maryland
is not essentially different from that of the other states,
having like them a House of Assembly, a Senate, a
Governor and his Council. The Assembly of the com-
mons possesses really the law-making power of the
state ; the members are annually newly elected in the
counties, and during the meeting of the House receive
15 shillings current a day, or two Spanish dollars. The
Senate cannot of itself make new laws, but can propose
them to the Commons, and also express its disapproval
of those brought forward by it ; for without the con-
currence of the Senate the resolutions of the Assembly
are without legal force. The members of the Senate
are elected only every five years, but they meet as often

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 367

and at the same time as the Assembly. In the interim
the Governor, with his Council, is charged with the
execution of those laws approved by both of the state's
Assemblies, and in so far he possesses the highest, but
not an arbitrary, power, and must give a strict account
of any thing done by him without authority. In the
choice of the Governor there is an especial prudence
shown. He must have lived five years in the state, his
property must be five times greater than that required
of a Senator, and he can fill the office only three years
in seven. After all these and other careful measures
adopted with a view to having a wise, experienced, and
rich Governor, he finds himself none the less very
answerable and under manifold restrictions.

At present the taxes in Maryland amount in the
average to some 31 and a half to 32 shillings in the
100 pounds, or i^ pro cent of the value of real
estates. However little this can be regarded as a
heavy burden, it is nevertheless held to be such, in
consideration of the fact that under the former con-
stitution almost nothing was paid in taxes. Mean-
while it is fondly hoped that in future the public im-
posts will grow less again, but this will hardly be the
case.

It is well known that from the beginning of the
province of Maryland, the territorial lordship of the
province lay in the Baltimore family ; after the death
of the last Lord Baltimore Mr. Harford, his natural
son, succeeded to all his possessions and estates but
not to the title. The general revolution offering an
opportunity, the state of Maryland held it convenient
to regard no overlordship as henceforth valid, and
consequently to declare that the rightful claims of the

368 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

heir of Lord Baltimore are null and void. A free and
independent state is not indeed essentially obliged to
justify itself in such a matter as against a private
person. Stat enim pro ratione voluntas. However,
Mr. Harford immediately after the armistice coming
over from Europe to contest for his inherited rights,
several grounds have been given for the action taken ;
among others, that during the Revolution Mr. Har-
ford was living in Great Britain, a subject of a power
inimical to the state, and hence was to be regarded as
an enemy of the province. Mr. Harford was born and
brought up in Europe, had never before been in Mary-
land, was at the outbreak of the war still under age,
and is at present only 23 years old, and was guilty of
no offence against the state of Maryland except that of
being the lawful heir of his father who drew thence a
yearly income of 20-25,000 Pd. sterling in ground-rents
and returns from his domains.

The next Assembly will decide finally in this matter ;
but the outcome is easily to be foreseen when one re-
members that a whole people is unanimously resolved
its property shall no longer be held in fee-tail. The
state itself, by and through the change in its constitu-
tion, has assumed the paramount right, has purchased
the demesne estates of the family of Baltimore and
applied the proceeds to the maintenance of the war;
ground-rents are no longer paid, because another
method of taxation has been adopted and has become
necessary. Mr. Harford at most has no further hope
beyond receiving arrearages up to the year of his
majority; but even this is subject to as many doubts
and difficulties as all other payments which Europeans
are demanding of Americans.

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 369

Annapolis has the honor of setting up the first mint
for small silver coin in the United States. A gold-
smith here mints on his own account, but with the
sanction of the civil authorities. After the decadency
of the paper money, what with the general shortage of
small coin, it became customary and necessary all
over America to cut Spanish dollars into two, four, or
more parts and let the pieces pass as currency. This
divisional method soon led to a profitable business in
the hands of skillful cutters, who contrived to make 5

V

quarters, or 9 and 10 eights, from a single round dollar,
so that everybody soon refused to accept this coin un-
less by weight or opinion ; the perplexity how to get
rid of this cornered currency is an advantage to the
goldsmith mentioned, who takes them at a profit in ex-
change for his own round coin. On the obverse of
his shillings and half-shillings stands his name /.
Chalmers, Annapolis; in the middle two hands clasped;
on the reverse: One Shilling, 1783; and two doves
billing.

Recently, after the Congress had fled from Philadel-
phia, and Trenton did not seem to it comfortable
enough, the proposal was made to invite it to An-
napolis. But the town having not sufficient trade or
provisioning capacity, nor being large enough to en-
tertain all the representatives of the United States
with their adherents, it occasioned no little joy when
a few days ago a courier brought the news that the
Congress had decided to hold its interim-session here,
and would assemble on the 25th of next October. But
it will remain here only until quarters for it have been
set up at Georgetown on the Potowmack and at
Trenton on the Delaware ; for at the same time this
24

370 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

illustrious assembly resolved for the future to remove
its residence every autumn and spring from one to the
other of these places. These solemn migrations have
given occasion to the bitterest gibes in the public
papers.

Maryland is behind none of the other states in ex-
cellence of climate, in variety and fertility of soil, or in
diversity of products. Its situation, almost at the
middle of the continent of North America, causes its
inhabitants seldom to languish from immoderate heat
or to suffer from disagreeable cold, and most of the
products of the rest of America thrive here under good
management. With Virginia it shares the advantages
of a spacious bay, which in regard to its size, safety,
and the number of its navigable streams can hardly
be excelled. It is convenient at all seasons of the vear

*

and is seldom disturbed by the hurricanes of the south
or closed by the impassable ice of the north. Maryland
produces good maize and excellent wheat, hemp, and
flax. The more profitable culture of tobacco has in-
deed kept these articles somewhat under ; but the in-
convenience of wanting the most necessary things and
the uncertainty of getting them from other parts hav-
ing been variously felt, more attention is now directed
to agriculture. Swine and horned cattle do well with
the most careless handling, and increase prodigiously.
The lands are more divided, and more uniformly, than
in Virginia, are therefore somewhat better cultivated
and are generally worth more, especially on the west-
ern side of the Bay where the soil is less sandy and
barren than on the Eastern Shore.

The whole province is divided into the following 16
counties ; Ann-Arundel, of which Annapolis is the chief

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 371

place, Baltimore, St. Mary, Charles, Kent, Frederick,
Prince George, Somerset, Dorchester, Worcester, Tal-
bot, Cecil, Calvert, Queen Anne — and two other new
ones, the names of which escape me. Those counties
which have as yet no particular or aptly placed towns
fix their Court-houses at some convenient place in the
middle of the county, often in the midst of the forest,
where at the appointed times numerous assemblies
come together to transact business, as well as out of
curiosity and the desire of company.

The country between Annapolis and Baltimore is
for the most part flat and sandy ; having gone 9 miles
of the road, one notices a grey quarry-stone protruding
from the soil and farther on much breccia composed
of iron-bearing sand. The extensive woods consisted,
throughout, of the twi-blade Jersey pine, and there
were only a few scattered farms to be seen. A few
miles this side Baltimore the Ferry-branch of the
Patapsco must be crossed, near two miles wide, and
the passage not agreeable as we made it, at night in
a rain-storm and with drunken negroes. But it was
far more unpleasant to learn that, of our collections
made in the mountains and ordered hither, nothing as
yet had arrived. We could no nothing but consign
them, with the rest of our store, to the care of a friend
here, for later expedition, and we left Baltimore
troubled at having been at fruitless pains.

On the road to Philadelphia the first 10 miles are
through a sandy clay soil, showing numerous frag-
ments of iron-bearing stone. We put up for the night
at a tavern standing alone by the road. A man from
the Eastern Shore entertained us with many anecdotes
regarding the ' dam'nd English dogs/ that is, the
soldiers. Of all he laid to their charge nothing vexed

372 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

him so much as their stealing his fat hogs after having
in vain offered him money for them. But in an honor-
able and upright manner he acknowledged that he and
other American militia-men on their campaigns had
done as ill, taking cattle when they wanted them and
without having offered money, which besides they had
none of. In the morning, three miles from our
quarters, we passed an iron-foundry lying in ruins.
At one time swamp-ore was worked here, which the
neighboring marshes furnish in plenty ; the war com-
ing on put a stop to the business. One mile this side
Gunpowder-Creek the blackish granite began to ap-
pear, which, as at Baltimore, receives its color from the
mixture of a blackish scale-hornblende. The stream
itself, as we afterwards saw, has broken through a
deep bed of this stone, and it appears from the rock-
walls of the creek that the stone was originally laid
in strata. Farther on, at the ferry over the Susque-
hannah, there was still to be seen a related species of
stone, but of a lighter, greyer color. Only along the
deep beds dug out by the streams is there opportunity
to observe the underlying rock, which elsewhere is
covered with the common sandy soil composing the
level surface. Thus, for many miles along these roads
and in these parts there is a tedious uniformity of pine-
forest and sand. The Susquehannah at this ferry,
(called the lowest), is a mile wide, and has many
hidden shelves due to the lines of rock striking across.
Seven miles beyond this ferry we came to Charles-
town, on the North-East-Branch, still in Maryland.
It was a church-dedication day. Already we had met
on the road a great many country-people, all of them
well dressed, on horseback, and all sober although re-
turning from the festival. The sun was not yet set

RETURN FROM PITTSBURG 373

and the market not yet over when we reached the
place, which contains not more than 40-50 houses.
There was a superfluity of the best wares, the finest
cloths and linens, and not less than five booths for
silver-ware and jewellery to be seen. But the mer-
chants who had come from Baltimore and Philadel-
phia, complained that they could hardly pay their
tavern-scores, to say nothing of their expenses. Of
gazers at the fine things, or of people hankering to
buy, there was no lack, but the money was wanting.
The court-days, which should have been held several
weeks before (this is the capital of Charles county)
must be still further postponed on account of the un-
fortunately general scarcity of money. For where no
money is for settling debt-cases won, or paying costs
and fines, or for ' instructing ' attorneys, no court can
be held. At the house where we put up, the fair
damsels of the region waited a long time for music
and the dance but in vain ; not a fidler was to be im-
pressed, and they would have been easily satisfied ; the
company was obliged to get home undiverted and un-
fatigued.

The place has no trade, notwithstanding large ves-
sels can lie here ; but tobacco is no more raised, and
there is not much else that can be exported.

A few miles farther lies Head of Elk, on the Elk
river. Near this little place General Howe and his
army landed in the fall of 1777; the house in which he
ate is pointed out as a curiosity, and the English are
contemned here merely for the reason that after so
many threats they failed to carry out what they prom-
ised, which, it appears, would have been preferred
here. Shortly after we came into the jurisdiction of
the

State of Deiatoare,

which formerly was also a part of the property of the
Penn family (just as actually the Governor of Pensyl-
vania is Governor of this state), but for the rest, the
state or province exists of itself, independent of Pen-
sylvania. It is called properly ' the lower states of
Delaware/ + and is made up of three counties only,
New-Castle, Kent, and Sussex, which together occupy
the lower and southern side of the Delaware and in part
the peninsula formed by this river and the Chesapeak
Bay (the ' Eastern Shore/ according to the Maryland
and Virginia expression). In length this state begins
12 miles north-west of New Castle, and extends to the
mouth of the river, in breadth it is nowhere more than
30 miles. Next to Rhode Island it is the smallest of
all the United States ; but is not so wrell peopled, the
eastern or New England states indeed generally ex-
ceeding those more to the south in number of inhabi-
tants, towns, and villages. The form of government
of this state corresponds with that of Pensylvania, con-
sisting of an Assembly, Executive Council, Governor
and Privy Council. Also the laws, since the abrogation
of the union, are about the same as those of Pensylvania.
The complete separation of these states took place dur-
ing the Revolution. This state furnished to the army
only one slim regiment during the war ; but at the same
time maintained another, called a flying-corps ; and
such it was from all accounts. The troops of the state

STATE OF DELAWARE 375

were at the time not completely discharged from
service ; and this, at the last election for members of
the Assembly, gave rise to violent dissensions. The
soldiers claimed that they had a right to cast their
votes in the election of these Members. The right is
granted by the law, if one has lived a year in the
province and can show property in the amount of 40
Pd. The first provision must be allowed, because the
soldiers, even if not natives, performed service for
that period or longer within the limits of the state ; as
satisfying the second condition of the electorate the
soldiers held that the state, being in their debt for
several years pay, the sum amounted to far more than
the stipulated 40 Pd. But, said the citizens, so long as
you are soldiers we cannot grant you the suffrage, be-
cause soldiers are merely servants of the state, not
really members of it, contribute nothing to the needs of
the community, and fall under special laws and juris-
dictions— and particularly because what the state owes
its soldiers cannot be counted as actual property ; which
last objection the soldiers from troublous experience
are unable to deny. Meantime, this quarrel excited
much anxiety and unrest, but remained undecided
until shortly after this the whole American army, by
promulgation of the Congress, was finally discharged
from service, and thus the soldiers became citizens
again ; but in the interim the precaution had been taken,
at the last election, of ordering away all soldiers who
were at New-Castle. The upper part of this province,
lying towards Pensylvania, has good meadow-land
along the Delaware and the streams flowing into it,
and the higher land shows good wheat soil. The lower
part is sandy and infertile ; at the mouth of the Dela-

376 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

ware the people support themselves by fishing, and by
divers sorts of trade * with the in- and out-going
ships and the assistance they render these. But it is
strange to say especially of this little state, as several
have done, that its sky is clear and its weather regular,
as if in these items it was superior to the adjacent
regions.

Christianabridge, the first place in this state we
came to, 12 miles from Head of Elk, is of itself a small
place but on account of the convenient communication
to be had here between the Delaware and the Chesa-
peak Bay, may become more important. From here to
Philadelphia the customary and shorter post-road goes
by Newport, but this is a hilly and rocky road ; a better
and more pleasant is by New-Castle, and along the
beautiful banks of the Delaware. This we chose and
after five miles reached

New-Castle, the capital of this province and the
seat of the Governor, but a little insignificant town on
the high banks of the Delaware. Besides several
churches it has few other seemly buildings, the whole
number of which may be scarcely 200. There is no
trade here and the inhabitants seem not to be active.
The nearness of Philadelphia, which is only 30 miles
higher up the river, is likely the great hindrance to
the taking-up of large affairs. The boundaries of the
county of New-Castle are so fixed that this place lies
at the centre of an arc of a 1 2-mile radius. Five miles
on, along the river where one continually observes
good land, fine meadows in the bottoms, large wheat-

* Formerly, (and doubtless in future when duties are col-
lected again), by smuggling and receiving smuggled goods.

STATE OF DELAWARE 377

fields above, much cattle, and neat country-houses,
lies

Wilmington; a vastly better place, large and busy.
We arrived there a little before sunset, having not far
from the town been set over Christina Creek, which
falls into the Delaware here. Wilmington is not only
very pleasantly situated but also very advantageously
for trade. Standing on a moderate hill based on rock,
it has on the one side the Christina and on the other
the Brandywyn Creek, these making a point of land,
at the most elevated part of which is the town, the
land thence falling away and flat to the Delaware, 2-3
miles distant ; a splendid prospect towards the river
and the farther shores in Jersey is thus afforded.

Brigantines as well as three-masted ships can come
up Christina Creek to the town and lay-to very close
in. The trade of the place, which begins to be con-
siderable, is in grain, flour, and timber. The town
contains some 400 houses, mostly good, neat, brick-
houses standing close together in several straight
streets ; it has two well-supplied and roomy market-
places, four or five houses of worship, and many new
houses are on the point of building. The Swedish
colony here, which gave occasion to the settlement of
the town and conferred on Christina Creek its name,
has preserved pretty well its language and usages ; at
least these are less deformed than among the Swedes
of Philadelphia, many of whom scarcely understand
any longer the speech of their fore-fathers.

Near to Wilmington the Brandywyn is crossed, over
a good stone bridge. The name of this stream has been
made immortal by the fight between Howe and Wash-
ington which took place at a little distance from here

378 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

in the year 1777. The banks here are deep and rocky,
and the narrow gorge through which the stream flows
makes a view peculiarly pleasing and rough. The
stone appearing at the surface is a grey, fine-grained
mixture of quartz and black hornblende. Several mills
are so conveniently placed on this creek that large
shalops can lie close to them, and unload and load
wheat and flour with great ease ; the creek is not navi-
gable beyond. Many good houses and fine country-
estates are to be seen in this region, where twenty years
ago it was all wilderness and nobody cared to buy.
The flour-trade has now so increased the value of this
profitable situation, that an acre of land on the creek
fit for a mill-site costs 100 Pd. and more Pensyl.
Current.

Over high ground, here and there rocky, at a little
distance from the Delaware which is now and again in
sight, one comes to Marcus-hook, a small village with
a church. This country is distinguished by many well-
kept live hedges which elsewhere in America are little
in use as yet. The whole way from Virginia we
noticed very few birds, some partridges (Tetrao virgi-
nianus, L.) and quails (Alanda magna, L.), falsely so-
called, excepted. But for two days there have met us
flocks of many thousands of blackbirds (Oriolus phoe-
niceus) which have begun their journey to the south,
and where they settled they covered the trees with
black. The wild doves had already gone south in the
middle of the month.*

: The birds of passage, to which the American farmer most
often pays regard, are : Columba migratoria, Turdus migra-
torius, T. polyglottus, Oriolus phoeniceus. Alauda magna, Al.
alpestris, Picus principalis, Pic. auratus, Gracula Quiscula,

STATE OF DELAWARE 379

Twelve miles from Wilmington on this road and
14 from Philadelphia lies Chester, belonging to
Pensylvania ; a place of middling size to which the
ships lying there, going to Philadelphia or coming
thence, furnish some support. Here we saw a few fine
mulberry trees, not often found elsewhere. The asser-
tion has been made that these trees, like the walnut,
better the soil in which they grow. With a view to the
culture of, silk, the elder Bartram made a few small
but promising experiments ; also, as du Pratz relates,
successful experiments have been made by a lady at
New Orleans, so that there is reason to hope that this
domestic tree will one day be of great use to America.

Farther on, nine miles from Philadelphia, is Darby,
a small village where in deep roads the grey rock was
still to be seen, overlaid with a coarse, slatey, white
stone. The 3ist of October in the evening we came a
second time to Philadelphia.

Philadelphia. During our absence a company of
players had arrived. For many years America has en-
joyed these diversions at sundry places. Travelling
companies came from Europe to Philadelphia, New
York, Charleston, and the West Indies ; and Philadel-
phia, as also New York, had a special play-house,
although the Quakers have always protested. The
present company, under the direction of a Mr. Reyan, +
was formed several years ago from the remnants of

Motacilla Sialis, Mot. Calendula, Loxia Cardinalis, Emberiza
hiemalis & nivalis, Trochilus Colubris, &c. and a few others
which are the more striking in the eye of the countryman
either for the great flocks in which they come and go or on
account of their distinct colors. But generally only a few
land-birds remain the winter through in this region.

380 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

one that had gone to pieces, and made its first appear-
ance at Baltimore. During this summer it had sought
to take advantage of the presence of the British army
at New York, but with trifling success. It then came
here, where another evil star awaited it. An old law
of the state of Pensylvania forbids public plays.
When that law was passed Quaker principles had a
stronger hold than now; for enlightenment is gain-
ing ground here also, and the long sojourn of
many foreigners, military men and others, has
greatly changed manners, taste, and ideas, widen-
ing and increasing a disposition for all pleasures. A
great part of the modernized inhabitants desired that
plays should go on, which the others vehemently op-
posed as an unlawful and immoral innovation ; so the
general question was : will the play be countenanced
by the government or not ? The Assembly had recently
met, — most of its members those who have been born
and brought up in the country, have never seen a play,
and therefore have few and wrong ideas as to the
morality of the matter, or on the other hand Quakers
and other sectarians who from their religious prin-
ciples frown on all the pleasures of the rest of the world
-to this assembly, then, representations and petitions
were submitted pro and contra, and judgment was
awaited.

A petition signed by very many of the inhabitants
declares the dreaded licensing of the play to be a con-
temptuous abuse of the law ; extremely sinful after a
war just ended;* saying: that an authoritative appro-
bation of this idle, licentious, pernicious pleasure would

* At Baltimore even during the war the play was legitimate.

STATE OF DELAWARE 381

be wickedly and ruinously inadvertent, showing the
greatest ingratitude to Providence ; that the young
would be thus debauched, led away into dissipation and
every vicious tendency, and the taste for the orderly
and virtuous joys of domestic and social life be cor-
rupted; that conjugal unfaith would be so occasioned,
disorder and extravagance be increased among the
citizenry, the spread and confirmation of true religion
hindered, &c. In a word the play is described as the
source and school of every vice, as the direct road to
Hell, and the certain means of destruction to the state.
Mr. Reyan on the contrary endeavored to convince the
House of Assembly of the good effected by plays and
of their influence on the polite and moral culture of
the young and of the people generally ; he did not for-
get to titillate the ambition of the members of the
Assembly : The most celebrated and greatest nations
" of the world, said he to them, have at all times had
' plays and loved them : and shall this young budding
' state, having in the most praiseworthy manner es-
' caped the chains of threatening servitude and the
' dangers of a bloody war, having made sure its claims
' to a rank and dignity equal to those of the other
' kingdoms of this earth, shall it in this regard think
'and act differently to them? — No! Policy says, No!
-Sound reason says, No! and certainly the wisdom
' and magnanimity of the House will corroborate-
No ! the House of Assembly did not corroborate, and the
majority of the votes was against the play. And the
proposal fell to the ground, (from which Mr. Reyan
promised himself the best results, according to the
posture of affairs then), to lay a tax on plays, as had
shortly before been done in the case of billiards. The

382 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

House was not to be moved, and forbade the continua-
tion of plays, which, despite the law, were given for
some time afterwards. In this state, as in many others
where for every matter a new and express law must
be made, it is only necessary to comply with the literal
sense, and the law may be freely mocked at. Concerts
were not prohibited, nor reading, nor dancing. + So
concerts were advertised, a select piece to be read be-
tween the acts, and a ballet given at the close. I went
to hear one of these concerts and saw instead the
tragedy of ' Douglas.' The music was as customary,
and the actors and actresses came on with a bit of paper
in their hands which they did not look at and finally
threw away, but for the rest played their roles as
formerly. This in a country which boasts of its laws.
There is no disavowal of the law ; there is no insistence
on its observance, but a quiet looking-on while means
are found to avoid it. Thus both sides are content ; the
one was pleased at making a law, the other at making
naught of it. However, this might not long be kept
up, for the Assembly having come together again, it
will likely pass a new law and interrupt this reading-
society.

The Assembly of Pensylvania,* which, as I have
mentioned, was at this time in session, held its sittings
in a large room in the State-House. The doors are
open to everybody ; I had thus the pleasure of being
several times in attendance ; but I cannot say that in
the strict sense I saw them sitting. At the upper end
of the room the Speaker, or President of the Assembly,

* It is called : General Assembly of Representatives of the
Freemen of Pensylvania.

STATE OF DELAWARE 383

sits at a table, in a rather high chair. He brings for-
ward the subjects to be considered, and to him and
towards him the speakers direct themselves when they
open their minds regarding questions pending. He
calls the Assembly to order, when he observes inatten-
tion, or talk that is disturbing, and puts the question
when the matter has been sufficiently discussed pro and
contra, and is now to be decided by a majority of the
votes. The members sit in chairs at both sides of the
table and of the room, but seldom quietly, and in all
manner of postures ; some are going, some standing,
and the more part seem pretty indifferent as to what is
being said, if it is not of particular importance or for
any reason uninteresting to them. When the votes
are to be taken, those in the affirmative rise, and those
in the negative remain sitting. The members of Ger-
man descent (if as is sometimes the case, from a lack
of thorough readiness in the English language they
either do not properly grasp the matter under discus-
sion or for any other reason cannot reach a conclusion)
are excused for sitting doubtful until they see whether
the greater number sits or stands, and then they do the
same so as always to keep with the largest side. Each
county elects and returns yearly six representatives to
the Assembly, the full number is thus 69 ; * but they
are seldom all present.

* Pensylvania numbered formerly but 10 counties : City of
Philadelphia, County of Philadelphia, Buckingham or Bucks,
(capital Newtown,) Chester, Lancaster, York, Cumberland,
(Carlisle,) Berks, (capital Reading,) Northampton, (Easton),
Bedford, Northumberland, (Sunbury) ; to these there have
been recently added six new counties, beyond the mountains :
Westmoreland, Washington, Fayette, Franklin, Montgomery,
Dauphin, and Luzerne.

384 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

The constitution of Pensylvania differs from that of
the other states in this, that besides this Assembly,
which is the real law-making- power, it has not like the
others a Senate or Upper House, (in imitation of the
English House of Lords), but a Supreme Executive
Council, of which the Governor is President, consist-
ing of 12 members, elected also in the counties by
turns. Pensylvania besides has been quite alone in
setting up a Council of Censors, to which each county
elects two members. It is the duty of these Censors to
safeguard the Constitution, to observe what Assembly
and Council undertake and what they carry out, to
guard against encroachments of power, to criticize all
abuses and changes, and to examine into the manage-
ment of the revenues of the state. But information as
to all this is to be had from the published constitutions
of the several states.

Regarding the frequent changes of residence of the
Congress, and especially in the matter of its annual
migrations from Jersey to Maryland and from Mary-
land to Jersey, recently decided upon, the newspapers
of Philadelphia have hitherto had no little diversion.

Under the protection of an almost unrestricted free-
dom of the press, which rightly used can be one of the
solidest supports of the Constitution, there are every
day lavished for the amusement of the public the
bitterest mockeries over the high-puissant Congress,
and nobody is held to account. The populace, which
takes impudence to be liberty, would defend the author
as well as the publisher against every attack, as was
recently the case in a suit at law which Bob Morris,
the celebrated financier, brought against the printer
of the ' Freeman's Journal ' for an abusive article. I

STATE OF DELAWARE 385

give only an example or two to show how rudely the
Illustrious Assembly is handled. To the Defender of
the Fatherland, General Washington, the Congress de-
cided to erect a statue on horseback, the work .to be
done by the first artist of France, and the statue to be
set up at the meeting-place of the Congress. This
resolution was followed shortly afterwards by that
fixing two ' foederal-towns,' on the Delaware and the
Potowmack, in which alternately the Congress was to
assemble. Whereupon, in the ' Freeman's Journal,'
some one brought forward the hypothesis that the Con-
gress migrating from one town to the other, the
mounted statue must necessarily go along ; and very
likely this horse, as the Trojan, would be hollow -bellied
so as to lodge on the journey the gentlemen of the
Congress, and for the private archives of the same
there would be room in a part of the anatomy equally
so. Again, it was proposed to build a floating town for
the Congress, known to be poor and greatly in debt,
sending it and all its luggage down the Delaware from
Trenton, along the coast into the Chesapeak Bay, and
up the Potowmack to Georgetown, comfortably and at
a saving of heavy expense. It was announced further +
that at the earliest possible day there would be seen
swinging in America an immeasurably great pendulum ;
for the Americans, having observed the unequal and
uncertain workings of the European machines of state,
having discovered the irregularities to which that polit-
ical system is subject, had devised a working mech-
anism for keeping their affairs going in an orderly
course. The centre of oscillation of the pendulum hit
upon for this purpose would be somewhere in the
planet Mars, the weight to be composed of certain
25

386 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

particularly heterogeneous materials of great specific
gravity known as the American Congress. This pen-
dulum will swing through a space of 180 miles, be-
tween Annapolis and Trenton ; but even the most eru-
dite mathematician will be unable to calculate its true
line of movement, since it will describe neither a
straight line, nor a cycloid, parabola nor hyperbola, but
will go its own crooked way.

These and many other similar anecdotes should
plainly enough show that this sovereign Assembly gets
no especial reverence nor, outwardly, any great honor
in America. But in a political aspect as well, it ap-
pears from other circumstances that the Congress has
neither the necessary weight nor the requisite solidity.
It is therefore, in the very restricted compass of its
activities, exposed to all manner of grievous vexations.
It was to be expected of a people so enthusiastic for
liberty that they should grant their Congress only a
shadow of dignity, (a very perplexing circumstance
when there is a disposition to be proud), and watch its
proceedings with a jealous exactitude. The real busi-
ness and the prerogatives of the Congress, in so far as it
represents the common power of the United States,
are : To declare war and conclude peace, to raise
armies and give them orders, to contract alliances with
foreign powers, to oversee the constitutions of all the
states and preserve their relations to the whole ; to call
for and administer the revenues necessary to these
ends, and to make public debts. In so far its activities
may be compared with those of other sovereign powers,
the Congress being bound to exercise care for the well-
being and the safety of the community. But as regards
the application of the means requisite, there are a

STATE OF DELAWARE 387

thousand difficulties in the way. Thus the United
States authorized the Congress to borrow money and to
pledge the honor of the nation ; but to pay these debts,
there is no authority granted.* Each individual state
has it own independent government which is concerned
for its especial welfare and inner security ; its own
laws, police, execution of justice, and all other institu-
tions looking to the furtherance of the common good,
with no immediate influence on the general union of
the states, free and regulated according to its own
pleasure. It is competent to these governments of the
several states to resist all ordinances and proposals of
the Congress which are unpleasing to them ; and if they
had not the right, they would do so none the less.

The power conferred by the people on the govern-
ment of each separate state, and conferred by these
governments on the Congress is subject to incessant
change, in so far, that is, as the members of these assem-
blies are from time to time replaced by others. Thus
continually the private man is taking up the business

* This is still sorrily the case : The debts of the Congress
at the beginning of the year 1786 amounted to 54 million dol-
lars, of which, distributed into 14 parts, 6 parts are due to
France, 3 to Holland, 2 to British subjects, and the remainder
to Americans.

The Congress, on the 2nd day of August 1786, determined
the budget for this year, the total 3,770,000 dollars in amount,
of which 317985 dollars for interest on the debts made in
France and Holland, 169352 dollars the costs of the Civil de-
partment, 168274 dollars for the Military department, 4/1294
for sundry other disbursements, and I million 392059 dollars
are needed for funds payable during the next year. The Con-
gress ivill with difficulty be able to effect the procuring of this
sum. Hamb. polit. Journ. October. 1786.

388 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

of a statesman, and after a time returns to make place
for another. By this arrangement it is desired to
guard against the misuse of the highest power, which
a constant body of statesmen might allow themselves
to drift into. Every member of a Provincial Assembly
as well of the Congress will be careful of approving
an ordinance which as a private person he might hesi-
tate to obey. He will be loath to impose heavy taxes,
which must be a burden to himself as well; and will be
slow to make an ill use of the public moneys, because
similar action on the part of his successors would be
disagreeable to him.

But also, generally useful institutions will be more
slowly advanced if it appears that special interests are
to suffer, and there will be a hampering of the best
and wisest plans of the Congress. For it may give no
decisive sentence, may not arbitrarily order. It can
represent only under correction, make proposals and
recommendations for the carrying out of which it must
have recourse chiefly to influence, cabals, and crooked
ways as was said before. And the Congress is very
well aware of its increasing infirmity and its diminish-
ing dignity ; and does not fail to bring before the
people, through hired authors, the necessity of increas-
ing its prerogatives and widening its sphere of arbi-
trary action, even recommending a Congress to be
made up of permanent members. All the newspapers
contain articles in which are combated the ineptitude
and groundlessness of the jealous suspicion which is
almost everywhere entertained regarding the un-
quenchable thirst after grandeur of this illustrious
Assembly.

Their place does not give the members of the Con-

STATE OF DELAWARE 389

i

gress any particular advantage or rank beyond their
fellow-citizens ; nor can such posts be said to be very
lucrative, the allowances granted by the state, exclusive
of travelling costs, amounting scarcely to I Pd. ster-
ling a day. However, an election to the Congress is
always honorable in itself, and after retirement re-
mains a glorious memory, proof of the regard and con-
fidence which one's fellow-citizens have for his capac-
ities and zeal of service. The Deputies to the Con-
gress are chosen from the Provincial Assemblies, the
number from each state being proportioned to its size,
the extent of its business and influence, but this may
not be less than two, nor more than seven. Whatever
the number of the Deputies from a state, they have to-
gether but one vote in the Congress, where the smallest
deciding vote is seven against six ; they must decide
among themselves, by a majority of votes, regarding
the affairs of their state in relation to the Congress and
as regards the party in the Congress they think it salu-
tary to support, provided they have not received defi-
nite orders as to their conduct, but this is generally the
case.

Nothing has so much damaged faith in the Congress,
or so diminished regard for it, even among its friends
and constituents, and nothing has caused more general
and bitter indignation against it, than the debts heaped
by it upon the states, and especially the woful after-
pains left by the paper-money issued under its war-
rant, which (with the hard regulations adopted in
support of its continually lessening credit) has sorrily
been the occasion of the loss of a great part or all of
the property of so many once prosperous families and
individuals. In vain the Congress offers in excuse that

390 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

•

other methods were not open to it by which to complete
the great work of freedom, and that certainly and alas !
the welfare of a few private persons must inevitably be
sacrificed (against the will of the Congress indeed) to
that of the whole community. However, the repre-
hensions of the upright are express, who regarded
other means as possible and proposed them, and the
complaints of suffering innocence continue.

There was a time when printed bits of paper were to
the people as valuable as hard coin ; for paper-money
had already been introduced in all the provinces,
(under the royal government and by the King's
authority), to the furtherance of trade, and was kept
readily in currency because the public was not deluged
with it,* as was lightly and superabundantly the case,
after the first years of the war, under the Congress.
However, these notes, dirty, decomposed, patched, and
unreadable as they came to be, scarcely to be handled
without contamination, are still deserving of a sort of
respect. The hope merely of the end to be gained gave
them a value, and during the first years of the war
this hope was certainly very much alive. At that time
the paper-money issued by the Congress and the states
was wholly esteemed and was reckoned without ques-
tion as equal to silver and gold. But this kind of mint-
age being found to be so easy, new and other new
millions being struck off on all occasions in payment
of the costs of the war, credit began to weaken, and
could only be kept up for a short space by blind zeal on
the one hand and fear on the other. Sundry reasons

* Each province might issue only a certain amount, not ex-
ceeding its capacities ; and proportioned to the needs of its
trade and disbursements.

STATE OF DELAWARE 391

contributed later to its steady fall. Opposition to the
war and mistrustful fear of its outcome, on the part of
the discontent ; the preference of a trading nation for
the nobler, solider, and glittering metals, a preference
never extinct and hardly to be repressed by patriotism ;
the obligation of the merchant to pay for his imported
European wares with sounding coin ; the necessity of
supplying American soldiers in British prisons with
cash money, which their relatives wished to do even if
the Congress assiduously neglected it ; and finally the
absolute impossibility, or at least the extreme improb-
ability of coming by a sure fonds on which in some
measure to base the credit of the rapidly increasing
paper millions ; all these circumstances contributed pro-
portionately to the depreciation of the paper-money.
Then a few merchants, under some one of these pre-
texts, began to ask for their wares the customary
cash-price, or the double of it in paper-money. Who-
ever had to buy, must submit to the condition, but in
his own business made use of a similar for his reim-
bursement. But this device once adopted, the deprecia-
tion of the paper-money went forward irresistibly. The
Congress sought in vain, with the whole fulness of its
credit, and by repeated and emphatic decrees, to stay
the pernicious evil, but all the measures adopted re-
mained without effect, or the effect was of short dura-
tion. Once the tormented Congress set an example of
the greatest tyranny, through a law for the mainte-
nance of its paper, known as the ' Tender-law ' and for-
ever to be abominated. The value of the paper had
already considerably fallen, when it was proclaimed
that in the payment of old debts the Congress or
Paper-money should be legally accepted at its full

392 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

nominal value, paper dollars at the time being about as
50 to i of silver. Thus whoever before the war, or
even later, owed 50 hard dollars, or had merely bor-
rowed them, could now come off by the payment of 50
paper dollars, the fiftieth part, that is, of the true
worth ; the legally cozened creditor was obliged to re-
gard the debt as extinguished, or refusing, to expose
himself to informations and severe handling. It may
easily be fancied to what great injustice and oppression
such a decree must have given rise, which neverthe-
less did not accomplish the end proposed, the paper-
money of the Congress sinking at last to nothing, re-
pudiated by itself in some degree. The loss which the
holders of the paper-money sustained by its yearly and
daily falling value cannot be estimated, but there are
great and woful complaints in this matter generally.
It is indeed unpleasant for the Congress itself that its
most zealous adherents and friends, misled by patri-
otic credence in its golden promises, have of all people
lost the most. And it was discretion on the part of
the members of most of the Assemblies, that they had
their allowances paid not in paper but in natural prod-
ucts, as, for example, with wheat in Pensylvania, with
tobacco in Maryland and Virginia ; good proof that in
these very Assemblies they were either convinced of
the worthlessness of the paper, or felt the conveniency
of making the most of the situation. But after all that
may or can be said about the paper-money, it remains
none the less true that without it, (a tax wrung from
their subjects and certainly distributed very un-
equally), the Congress would have found it impossible
to raise the money needed for the war.

At present the paper-money of the Congress is

STATE OF DELAWARE 393

wholly worthless, and will be preserved merely as a
curiosity of sad memory. Whoever cares to make a
collection of this diverse and multiplied money will
however get great entertainment from the proverbs and
emblematic pictures, and will observe, among other
things, how Father Priscian + has been given a rude
cuff on the ear. For example, on an 80 dollar note of
the year 1779, there stands a tree, between the heav-
ens— and the waters, with the legend : Et in ssecula
sseculorum florescebit. The printing of the paper-money
was always done with great circumspection ; the paper
was specially prepared and delineated ; sworn persons
were present who carefully counted off the sheets, and
others signed each note with their names ; and the
blocks and letters used were destroyed after every edi-
tion. Nevertheless there was a deal of counterfeiting.
After the decay of the Congress-money, here in Pen-
sylvania and in a few other provinces the State-money
and ' Loan-certificates ' kept a certain value. The first
is a sort of paper-money, which in Pensylvania was
issued in dollars by authority of an Act of Assembly ;
and the second, states' bonds for money borrowed of
the public, for deliveries made, and other services ren-
dered : both are at this time received at the public
treasuries in the payment of taxes, but reckoned at
half value, the other half to be paid in hard money ;
but the certificates are not valid in the payment of civil
and military officers, of soldiers, or of sailors. But in
the common trade and negotiations neither passes ; and
further, there are certain taxes which must be paid in
gold or silver, as the lamp, night-watch, street, and
poor-tax, as also (according to the phrase of a decree
in German) die Fines, wenn einer nicht Exerciren

394 TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

gehet, that is, the penalties of the militia-soldiers who
do not appear for their weekly or monthly manoevres.

During my stay this time at Philadelphia I had the
chance opportunity of being present at the marriage-
ceremony of a young Quaker couple. The ceremony
is very simple, but solemn. Bride and bride-groom sit
in the meeting-house, before the whole assembly, which
meditative and still, according to their custom, waits
for what the holy spirit will let them know on the
occasion through one or another member of the society.
No one was inspired at this time, and after a long
while of speechlessness the marriage-contract was read
aloud slowly by one of the oldest persons present-
for they have no installed and paid ministers — without
preface or comment. Thereupon the betrothed silently
joined hands, and then signed the contract read them,
as was done also by the eldest of the congregation, the
relatives, and others present, witnessing the transaction
—and the ceremony was over.

In the matter of divorces the Quakers are as ex-
peditious ; but these take place among them less often.
But married persons of other religions also separate
in America with no great formality, either quietly or,
after the event, by giving notice in the public prints of
the conclusion reached. In the newspapers as well
there are to be found not seldom advertisements of
deserting and absconding wives, or warnings to the
public from husbands not to give credit to their di-
vorced or prodigal wives. But to be completely valid
and legal, a divorce must be the subject of a special
resolution in the Provincial Assembly, and it is not
always that the trouble is thought worth the taking.

I should have been glad also to be a spectator at the

STATE OF DELAWARE 395

baptizing of a young and handsome Anabaptist, which
was announced for a cold Sunday morning of this
chilly November; but I came too late to the Schuyl-
kill where the ceremony was performed. It was in-
deed very cold ; but these good people do not believe
that the coldness of the water at a time of baptizing
can be injurious to the health, even of the tenderest
woman, as this candidate was.

At Philadelphia I could not be too circumstantial
with my acquaintances in telling of my journey to the
mountains. To many of these citizens everything I
had remarked, seen, or brought back with me was great
and surprising news. This is not to be wondered at,
what with the almost total lack of a precise geographi-
cal and topographical description of the country. Many
of the small towns and villages are scarcely known even
by name, and one might almost say that beyond the
range of their inhabitants and nearest neighbors they
are many times not known at all ; and as regards full
accounts touching their situation, size, management,
history, trade, population, ceconomy, and plenty or
goodness of their particular products, there are no
public reports whatever to be had. It is therefore
greatly to be wished that patriotic American scholars +
might soon determine to give an exact and complete
description of their fatherland. It would be received
thankfully by both foreigners and natives. According
to the plan which, on leaving New York, I had made
of visiting the most remarkable regions of the inner
and frontier parts of the middle provinces, I had now
travelled more than 1200 English miles in about three
months ; this space of time, to which I was necessarily
restricted, did not permit me to linger as I should have

39G TRAVELS IN THE CONFEDERATION

wished, making leisurely observations and researches.
Very little assistance or information is to be had of
the inhabitants, who on the whole are not much ac-
quainted with the characteristical natural treasures of
their country, and it is besides vexatious enough, when
they begin to tell of this or that just when one is on the
point of pushing on farther, having previously made
inquiries in vain regarding the curiosities of the region
or gone about looking for them oneself. These people,
who naturally concern themselves only about what
brings them in a profit, cannot conceive how a stranger
might like to know of what to them are customary
things ; they think that one has merely come to see
their fine country and their fortunate way of life.
Moreover the season being late and the time not the
most favorable for a mountain-journey, the sum of my
observations did not correspond to my wishes or my
expectations. My travelling-companion and I had been
diligent collectors, had collected everything which came
to our notice; but our journey ended, the pleasure of
quietly examining what we had brought together was
denied us, at least we had not the time to look into
everything. The many difficulties we encountered, un-
known to us before the event or fancied as of small
moment, especially in the item of getting our baggage
through the interior of the country, safely and at the
right time from place to place, caused us the mortifica-
tion of losing much outright and of seeing a great part
of the remainder ruined or badly handled. Had we
been able to foresee these difficulties (certainly great if
through them the particular cherished design of a
journey is made idle) we should, doubtless, have hit
upon better methods in the avoidance of them. In the

STATE OF DELAWARE 397

future, what with a better established order and quiet,
and an internal commerce continually widening, other
travellers will have less ground for similar complaints ;
and the native savans least of all, (they being vastly
more able to get about conveniently and easily), when
they once begin to investigate the rarities and beauties
of their fatheland.

At Philadelphia Mr. Hairs, + my travelling com-
panion hitherto, left me in order to seize the oppor-
tunity of returning to England by the last British fleet
sailing from New York. But having determined to get
some knowledge as well of the more southern provinces
of the United States, and if possible of a part of the
West Indies, I did not permit myself to be frightened
by the approach of winter from setting out on a journey
through Virginia to Carolina.

No. I

Abstract of the Address of Professor Kunze of
Philadelphia on the Purposes and the Progress of the
Chartered German Society of Philadelphia in Pen-
sylvania. [Vol. I. pp. 613-629.]

No. II

Resolves of the Congress touching the Establish-
ment of Ten New States in the Territory lying to the
West of the Mountains.

[Vol. I, pp. 630-637. From Bailey's Pocket Alma-
nac, Philadelphia, 1785.]

No. Ill

Notice of The Discovery, Settlement & present State
of Kentucke and an Essay towards the Topography and
natural History of that important Country. By John
Filson. Wilmington. Printed by James Adams.
1784. 8. 1 18 pages. [Vol. I, pp. 638-644.]

[In the text a heavy cross-bar is the reference to notes, by
page.]

Preface — The continuation of the title of the Abbe
Robin's New Travels is : ' Also Narratives of the cap-
ture of General Burgoyne, and Lord Cornwallis, with
their armies, and a variety of interesting particulars,
which occurred in the course of the War in America.
Translated from the original of the Abbe Robin, one of
the chaplains to the French Army in America.
From such events let boastful Nations know,
Jove lays the pride of haughtiest monarchs low.

********

Basins by Young.
Philadelphia.
Printed and sold by Robert Bell in Third-street.

1783 — Price, Two Thirds of a Dollar."
[The translation by Philip Freneau.]

The picturesque Smyth (who is to be found in the
biographical dictionaries under the name Stuart, having
set up claim to descent from the Duke of Monmouth)
offers material for a dissertation. A contemporary de-
tractor charged him with having been a coachman in
Virginia. Smyth's narrative is excellent reading ; a
close investigation alone would determine whether he
was not often wide of the truth. Defoe could have
shaped his Travels into a novel of impeccable veri-
similitude. His title-page runs :

" A Tour in the United States of America, contain-
ing an Account of the Present Situation of that Coun-
26

402 NOTES

try, the Population, Agriculture, Commerce, Customs
& Manners of the Inhabitants ; Anecdotes of several
Members of the Congress & General Officers in the
American Army; and Many other very singular and
interesting Occurrences. With a Description of the
Indian Nations, the general Face of the Country,
Mountains, Forests, Rivers, & the most beautiful,
grand, and picturesque Views throughout that vast
Continent.

Likewise, Improvements in Husbandry that may be
adopted with great Advantage in Europe. Two vol-
umes. London, 1784."

•

The edition of Chastellux examined by Dr. Schoepf
was the pirated one printed at Cassel. The first trans-
lation was in 1787, London and Dublin, supposed to
have been the work of George Grieve, who lived for a
time at Alexandria in Virginia :

"Travels in North America in the years 1780, 1781,
and 1782. By the Marquis de Chastellux, one of the
forty Members of the French Academy, and Major
General in the French Army, serving under the Count
de Rochambeau. Translated from the French by an
English Gentleman, who resided in America at that
Period. With Notes by the Translator.

TroXXo)*' §'ai>$pa>7rG>j/ aorea KCU voov eyva*. OdySSey, B. I.

Multorumque hominum vidit urbes, & mores cognovit.

Two volumes."
[The notes are of great value.]

If Schoepf had seen the complete work he would not
have been so scandalized. Chastellux is flippant at
times, and made no pretence to a knowledge of the
exact sciences, but few foreigners at that period had a

NOTES 403

better notion of the true status of the United States.
The unfortunate Brissot also, who was in America in
1788, could not pardon Chastellux his lightness of
touch.

The Italian conte was Luigi Castiglioni, whose
Travels, immediately following those of Schoepf and
covering a wider territory (from Canada to Georgia)
are similar in treatment : the observations primarily of
a botanist with notes on conditions in general. A com-
parison of Schoepf with Kalm and Castiglioni brings
out Schoepf 's merits strongly, his sense of proportion
and his gift for informing the commonplace and the
technical with an individuality. Castiglioni belonged
to the great family of that name, and was as thorough
a botanist, no doubt, as America saw for many years
after the Revolution. The title of his book was,

" Viaggio negli Stati Uniti dell' America Settentrio-
nale, fatto negli anni 1785, 1786, e 1787, da Luigi Cas-
tiglioni, Patrizio Milanese, Cavaliere dell' Ordine di
S. Stefano P. M., membro della Societa Filosofica di
Filadelfia e della Patriotica di Milano.

Con Alcune Osservazioni sui Vegetabili piu utile di
quel Paese. Milano, 1790."

[Two volumes, the greater part of the second being
careful descriptions of plants, arranged alphabetically.]

Captain Von Wangenheim of the Hessian Chasseurs,
published in 1787, at Gottingen, Beschreibung cini^cr
nordamerikanischen Holzartcn, mit Anwcndun-g auf
deutsche Forste, mit 36 originalzcichnnngcn. gr. fol.

The reference to Crevecoeur's Lettres d'lin Cultira-
teur Americain is to the Paris edition of 1787, three

404 NOTES

volumes, ' traduites de 1'Anglois '. Letter 47, dated
Baltimore, May i, 1771, forms one of the ' beautiful
and true " chapters, regarding the American, what and
who he is.

For editions of Kalm, see Winsor, Narrative and
Critical History, IV, 494 ; V, 244.

P. 15 — Nicholas Dirx, called Tulpius, of Amster-
dam, 1593-1674. There was a tulip carved in stone
over his father's house, hence the name. His chief
work, Observationutn Medicaruni libri tres, Amster-
dam, 1641 ; Leyden, 1752, with augmentations.

P. 1 6 — " It was remarked upon as a curious circum-
stance, that while, before the revolution, lobsters or
large crawfish had never been seen in this vicinity ; yet
no sooner had that struggle commenced, than numbers
of them left the continent of North America and came
to New Scotland. This gave rise to a standing joke
among the people of this place, that the lobsters were
good royalists.'' Letters & Journals of Mrs. General
Riedesel. Translated by William L. Stone. Albany,
1867, p. 190.

P. 22 — Anburey tells this story of a Virginia officer
travelling in New England. Vol. II (ed. 1791), p.
62-63. Burnaby ascribes the method to Dr. Franklin,
and it is his version that Schoepf has followed. See,
Burnaby 's Travels through the Middle Settlements,
(1759-1760). London, 1775, p. 83.

P. 28 — Beytrage zur Volker- und Ldnderkunde;
gemeinschaftlich herausgegeben von J. R. Forster und
M. C. Sprengel. 3 Theile. Leipzig, 1781-1783.

NOTES 405

It should not be forgotten that Johann Reinhold
Forster was for many years active in making America
known in Germany. See, Meusel's Lc.vikon der win
Jahr 1750 bis 1800 verstorbcnen Teutscheii Schrift-
steller.

P. 36 — For some account of John Jacob Faesch, and
the colonial iron industry of New Jersey, see Edmund
J. Halsey, History of Morris County, New Jersey.
New York, 1882, ch. VII-IX ; cf. also American Ma-
chinist, XXV, 409; XXVII, 240, 354, 451.

P. 42 — " The flying machine sets out from Powles-
hook, opposite to New York, for Philadelphia, every
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning in summer ;
from November first, to May first, it performs the jour-
ney only twice a-week, and sets out on Mondays and
Thursdays. The waggons from Philadelphia set off
the same mornings. As the Machines set off from
Powles-hook early in the morning, passengers should
cross the ferry the evening before. The price for each
passenger is twenty shillings currency."

Patrick McRobert, Tour through Part of the North-
ern Provinces of America &c. Edinburgh, 1776, p. 56.

P. 46 — Richard Peters, 1748-1828, first President of
the Pennsylvania Agricultural Society &c.

P. 56 — Dictionnaire Philosophique, art. Eglisc (vol.
39, pp. 500 ff., ed. Kehl).

P. 61 — See, An Account of the Neiv-inventcd Penn-
sylvania Fire-Places &c. Philadelphia. Printed and
sold by B. Franklin. 1744. Sparks, VI, 34-64;
Smyth, I, 127-129.

P. 65— Timothy Matlack, 1730-1829.

406 NOTES

P. 70 — John Fothergill, 1712-1780, of whom Frank-
lin said, " I can hardly conceive that a better man ever
existed."

P. 8 1 — See, Transactions of the American Philo-
sophical Society, II, 225 ff., article by Dr. Rush, on
Tetanus-

' Dr. Schoepft, the physician general of the Anspach
troops that served at the siege of York in the year
1781, informed me of a singular fact upon this subject.
Upon conversing with the French surgeons after the
capitulation he was informed by them that the troops
who arrived just before the siege from the West Indies
with Count de Grasse were the only troops belonging
to their nation that suffered from the Tetanus. There
was not a single instance of that disease among the
troops who had spent a winter in Rhode Island."

P. 83 — Adam Kuhn, of Germantown, 1741-1817;
said to have been a favorite pupil of Linnaeus at Up-
sala ; the first Professor of Botany in America.

P. 84— ' A collection of anatomical models in wax,
obtained by Dr. Abraham Chovet in Paris, was in use
by Philadelphia medical students before the Revolu-
tion." Goode, Beginnings of American Science, Smith-
sonian Report, 1897, II, 413.

P. 87 — " Then I dressed myself as neat as I could ;
and went to Andrew Bradford, the printer's. I found
in the shop the old man his father, whom I had seen
at New York, and who, travelling on horse-back, had
got to Philadelphia before me."

Franklin: Autobiography, temp. 1723.

P. 87— Melchior Steiner, Race St. near Third;
Charles Cist, Market St. near Fifth. See their adver-

NOTES 407

tisements, Freeman's Journal, Nov. 12 and Nov. 19,

1783-

P. 89 — Thomas Spence Duche. See, Scharf, Hist,
of Philadelphia, II, 1040.

P. 93 — Arbustum Americanum : the American
Grove, or, an Alphabetical Catalogue of Forest Trees
and Shrubs, natives of the American United States.
I2mo. 169 pp. A very rare book. Cf. Harshberger,
Botanists of Philadelphia and their Work. Philadel-
phia, 1899, p. 80.

P. 95 — George Glentworth, of Philadelphia, 1735-
1792; after 1777 Senior Surgeon of the Continental
Army, and Director General of Hospitals for the mid-
dle division.

P. 96 — Letters from an American Farmer ; describ-
ing certain Provincial Situations, manners, and cus-
toms, not generally known, and conveying some idea
of the late and present Interior circumstances of the
British Colonies in North America.

Written for the Information of a Friend in England.
By J. Hector St. John [de Crevecoeur] A Farmer in
Pennsylvania.

London, 1782.

The Freeman's Journal (Philadelphia) for Dec. 24,
1783, contains an advertisement dated ' New York,
Dec. 1783 ' and signed

" St. John

Consul for the States of New York,
New Jersey, and Connecticut."

P. 98 — Kalm's Reiscn, Gottingen edition, 1757, II,
p. 405. John Reinhold Forster's English translation,
2nd ed. London, 1772, I, 206-207.

408 NOTES

P. 100 — See, Gottlieb Mittelberger's Journey to
Pennsylvania in the year 1750 (Trans, by Carl Eben).
Philadelphia, 1898, p. 117— "All English ladies are
very beautiful ; they wear their hair usually cut short
or frizzed."

P. 101 — The custom may have been general. Burn-
aby (ed. 1775, London, pp. 83-84) gives Massachu-
setts Bay as the locus. See also, Anburey, Travels
through the Interior Parts of America. London, 1791,
II, pp. 87-88. Letter XLIX, dated 'Cambridge in
New England, Jan. 19, 1777 '.

P. 104 — Habermann, called Avenarius, Professor of
Theology at Jena 1520-1590, whose prayer-book went
through many editions.

P. 108 — For a specimen of the later speech, see, Pro-
ceedings, Pennsylvania-German Society, I, 33-34 — De
Olta un Neia Tzeita. " Ich con on nix bessers denka
os a pawr wardt sawga weaga de olta un neia tzeita.
Suppose mer mista now widder tzurick gae iwer fooft-
zich yohr, un laiva we sellamohls ? Denk a mohl drau,
ainer het business in Pittsburg, un mist dort si in dri

odder feer dawg Eb mer awer om end feel

besser laiva con ich net exactly sawga."

P. no — This address was delivered Sept. 20, 1782,
being the first commemoration address before the Ger-
man Society of Pennsylvania. See, Oswald Seiden-
sticker, Hundert-j'dhrige Feier der Incorporation der
Deutschen Gesellschaft von Pennsylvania. Philadel-
phia, 1882, Introd., p. 9.

For some account of the conditions noted in this
address, see also Seidensticker, Geschichte der

NOTES 409

Deutschen-gesellschaft von Pennsylvania. Philadel-
phia, 1876, pp. 21-40.

P. no — For the early history of the German Society
of New York, see, Das Buck der Dentschen in Amcr-
ika. Philadelphia, 1909, p. 682-83.

P. 138 — See, Anburey, Travels through the Interior
Parts &c. (ed. 1791), II, pp. 450-452 — "In short, in
laying out the plan of this tavern, they seem solely to
have studied the ease, comfort, and convenience of
travellers." General Phillips, says Anburey, was so
much delighted with this tavern that he went out of
his way forty miles to revisit it.

P. 138 — Samuel Gustaf Hermelin, 1744-1820. See
his Berdttelse om Nordamerikas Forenta Stater. 1784.
Ed. C. E. B. Taube. Stockholm, 1894, p. V, Letter
of Count Creutz, minister at Paris, to King Gustaf III
(Nov. 7, 1782) — " Le baron de Hermelin est parti
pour TAmerique. II a desire de profiter de la premiere
occasion pour y aller, a fin de recueillir a temps les con-
naissances necessaires et former des liaisons qui Ini
fourniront des moyens d'ouvrir des debouches avan-
tageux pour le commerce de la Suede avec cette partie
du nouveau monde. II m'a dit que le President de la
Chancellerie lui avait fait sentir que votre Majeste
pourrait bien 1'accrediter comme Ministre anpres du
Congres, aussitot que la paix serait faite entre les
Etats-Unis de 1'Amerique et TAngleterre. Je lui ai
conseille d'agir avec le plus grand secret et la plus
grande circonspection et nous sommes convenus en-
semble d'annoncer son voyage comme ayant pour ob-
jet des decouvertes de 1'histoire naturelle a 1'instar de

410 NOTES

celui de Monsieur Kalm, et les lettres de recommanda-
tion que je lui ai obtenues en font mention/'

The Baron Hermelin's reports are now deposited
among the State archives at Stockholm. This edition
is merely a selection from those papers.

P. 140 — These pages descriptive of Bethlehem were
reprinted as Appendix I of a History of the Rise, Prog-
ress, and Present Condition of the Moravian Seminary
for Young Ladies. 1858. (See, Hist, of Bethlehem.
By Bishop Levering. Bethlehem, 1903, pp. 524-526.)

P. 141 — See, Benjamin Smith Barton, ' Observations
on Some Parts of Natural History, to which is prefixed
an account of several remarkable vestiges of an ancient
date which have been discovered in different parts of
America/ London, 1787. For instance, bricked wells
discovered in Jersey by Swedes.

P. 145 — John F. D. Smyth gives an interesting chap-
ter on the Moravian settlements in North Carolina, as
they were just before the Revolution. Tour in the
United States of America. London, 1784, I, ch. 29.

P. 161 — " Kalm relates (Travels, 1781 ed., p. 199,
vol. 2) that the ' Stags ' [wapiti] came down from
the mountains in 1705, and were killed in great num-
bers in the vicinity of Philadelphia. Regarding the
name " Stag," McKay, in his Zoology of New York
uses this as the common name for the wapiti. Ord, in
Guthrie's Geography (Amer. ed., 1815, p. 306), uses
the same name for it. Godman uses both this name
and "red deer' in his synonymy (Nat. Hist, vol. 2,
p. 294) . ' Red deer " was used by the backwoodsmen
to distinguish it from the Virginia or " wild deer."

NOTES 411

Rhoads, Mammals of Pennsylvania and New Jersey,
PP- 3J> 39 [Caption, " Eastern Wapiti or Elk," pp. 29-

47].

P. 172 — A recent and full discussion of these facts
of the early history of the Wyoming country is to be
found in Harvey's History of Wilkes-Barre. Wilkes-
Barre. 19x39. Vol. II, ch. XI, ch. XII, and ch. XVIII.

P. 208 — See, H. C. Grittinger. Iron Industries of
Lebanon County, Lebanon County Historical Society
Papers, III, 3-4.

P. 210 — Cf. Smyth, Tour in the United States, II,
387-88 [Long Island]. "There is a very singular in-
sect in this island, which I do not remember to have
observed in any other part of America. They are
named by the inhabitants Katy did's, from their note,
which is loud and strong, bearing a striking resem-
blance to those words, .... one perpetually and reg-
ularly answering the other in notes exactly similar to
the words Katy did or Katy Katy did, repeated by one,
and another immediately bawls out Katy didn't, or
Katy Katy didn't."

P. 213 — " They import many Black or Horned Cattle
far and near, from South- Carolina, Southward, and
from 300 Miles Westward, and from the Jersies."

Douglass, British Settlements. Boston, 1750, II,
333 — " Of Pennsylvania."

P. 213 — Near White's Tavern in 1793 was M'Allis-
ter's farm, of which Dr. Cooper has left a minute de-
scription, interesting as showing what the good eight-
eenth century method was. Some Information respect-
ing America. Collected by Thomas Cooper, late of
Manchester. Dublin, 1794, pp. 123-134.

412 NOTES

P. 2ig — Among the most pronounced of these ad-
venturers was the celebrated " Lord of Newburyport,"
Timothy Dexter.

P. 232 — Apparently Dr. Schoepf was not familiar
with Jeffery's Atlas (ed. 1768, 1775, 1776, 1782). Jef-
fery's map of Pennsylvania, (ed. 1782) after W. Scull
1770, delineates the mountains well, and should have
been useful to the traveller.

P. 242 — The journey seems to have been made from
Nazareth to Pittsburgh in a chair, or chaise. The ex-
cursion to Wyoming was apparently by horseback.

Dr. Schoepf's visit to Pittsburgh is mentioned at
p. 86 of Sarah H. Killikelly's History of Pittsburgh,
Pittsburgh, 1906.

See also, Bulletin of the Carnegie Library of Pitts-
burgh, Vol. IX, No. 7, pp. 203-215.

P. 245 — The figures used here were doubtless taken
from American Husbandry, London, 1775, 2 vols., an
extraordinary book, which owed a good deal on the
political side to Governor Pownall's Administration of
the Colonies.

P. 260. — See, ' A Narrative of the Incidents attend-
ing the Capture, Detention, and Ransom of Charles
Johnston, of Botetourt County, Virginia, who was
made Prisoner by the Indians, in the year 1790; to-
gether with an interesting account of the fate of his
companions, five in number, one of whom suffered at
the stake. To which are added Sketches of Indian
Character and Manners with Illustrative Anecdotes.'
New York, 1827, pp. 264.

P. 262 — [Judge Richard Henderson, of North Caro-
lina] " One of the most singular and extraordinary

NOTES 413

persons and excentric geniuses in America, and per-
haps in the world I beg leave to observe, that

I do not presume to undertake his justification, but
only admire his enterprising policy, and the vigour and
activity of his mind."

Smyth, A Tour in the United States of America.
London, 1784, Vol. I, pp. 124-128.

P. 263- ' Upon occasion of the last war Dr. Mitchel
[John Mitchell] was employed by the ministry to take
an accurate survey of all the back countries of North
America, most of them being then but little known,
except to the French, who were in possession of a line
of forts through all North America. No person could
have been more properly appointed, for he was not only
able to lay down the country with exactness, but being
well acquainted with practical agriculture in Virginia
and Pensylvania, he was able to understand the nature
and value of those countries he should traverse. This
was the origin of his map of North America [1755],
the best general one we have had : at the time it was
published, it was accompanied by a bulky pamphlet
written by the Doctor, and entitled, The Contest in
America, in which he enters into a full elucidation of
the importance of the back countries, and of the fatal
effects which must flow from leaving the French in
possession of their encroachments. Among others he
considers particularly the territory of the Ohio, and
shews of how much importance it is to the planters of
Virginia." American Husbandry. London, 1775.
Under caption, " The Ohio."

P. 268 — " A controversy has for a long time existed
whether this animal [the Mammoth] were a species of
elephant or not; and both the affirmative and negative

414 NOTES

sides of the question were confidently maintained by
eminent zoologists. It is probable the dispute is now
nearly being terminated, as, in the estimation of good
judges, proof little short of demonstrative has ap-
peared, confirming the opinion of those who assign this
far-famed animal to the genus Elephas" A Brief
Retrospect of the Eighteenth Century. By Samuel
Miller. New York, 1803, Vol. I, p. 120.

P. 270 — Essai sur cette question, quand et comment
rAmerique a-t-elle ete peuplee d'hommes et d'animaux
[par Samuel Engel]. Amsterdam, 1767, II, Ch. VI,
p. 298 ff. — Les Anges ont ete les anciens habitant de
notre globe.

Dr. Schoepf has used De Pauw's Recherches philo-
sophiques sur les Americains. Berlin, 1770, I, 321,
where Samuel Engel's theory is the subject of pleas-
antry.

P. 278 — Hugh Henry Brackenridge [Class of 1771,
later on the Supreme Bench of Pennsylvania] in 1776
' went to Philadelphia, and supported himself by edit-
ing the United States Magazine." General Charles
Lee would have been glad to horse-whip the editor.
Brackenridge relinquished this work in 1781, going to
Pittsburg.

Alexander, Princeton College in the Eighteenth Cen-
tury, p. 140.

P. 278 — " .... The principle which has been sup-
posed to be recognised by all European governments,
from the first settlement of America. The absolute,
ultimate title has been considered as acquired by dis-
covery, subject only to the Indian title of occupancy,
which title the discoverers possessed the exclusive

NOTES 415

right of acquiring It has never been contended

that the Indian title amounted to nothing. Their right
of possession has never been questioned. The claim
of Government extends to the complete ultimate title,
charged with this right of possession, and to the exclu-
sive power of acquiring that right."

Chief Justice Marshall's opinion, in Johnson and
Graham's Lessee vs. William Mclntosh. (Wheatons
Reports, Vol. 8.)

P. 290 — General William Irvine, 1741-1804; and
Lt.-Col. Stephen Bayard, 3rd Pennsylvania. General
Irvine left this post Oct. 1st, and Colonel Bayard,
Nov. 3rd, of this year.

P. 291 — See also, Gentleman's Magazine, 1786, Vol.
56, p. 801, ' A letter from New York mentions the
discovery of a spring in the county of Fincastle in
Virginia, the waters of which have a singular quality
unparalleled in any country in the world, for by flash-
ing a little gunpowder over it, the water will take fire
and burn like spirits." The county of Fincastle had
lost its name and been subdivided several years before
1786.

P. 293 — Dr. Thomas Burnet's Telluris Theoria
Sacra, 1680; and Woodward's Essays towards a Natu-
ral History of the Earth. 1695.

P. 296. — For an account of Husband's earlier career,
(he was a relative and correspondent of Franklin's),
see, Fitch, Some Neglected History of North Carolina.
Washington, 1905, ch. III-V.

P. 302 — In the Gentleman's Magazine, Vol. X
(1740), p. 104, a curious letter is given, written by

416 NOTES

Morgan Jones, ' Chaplain to the Plantations of South
Carolina,' dated New York, March loth, 1685-6. Mr.
Jones says he was captured by the Tuscorara Indians,
from whom a tribe of Doegs ransomed him. These
Doegs spoke Welsh, and Mr. Jones ' did preach to
them three times a week in the British language.'

P. 3 1 1- -There are not many records of visits to
Bath-town at this period or even much later.

See, Bayard, Voyage dans I'interieur des Etats-
Unis, a Bath, Winchester, dans la Vallee de Shenan-
doha, &c. Pendant I'ete de //pi. Paris, 1797, pp. 75-
105.

Also, James K. Paulding, Letters from the South
written during the Summer of 1816. New York, 1817,
II, 224-245.

P. 313 — A few years later, in 1796, Isaac Weld
found Winchester the largest town in America west
of the mountains.

P. 314 — This is doubtless a mistake, not Delancy,
but Dulan-y.

See, One Hundred Years Ago or the Life and Times
of the Rev. Walter Diilany Addison, 1769-1848. By
Elizabeth Hesselius Murray. Philadelphia, 1895, pp.
66,67.

P. 320 — " The assembly, or parliament of North
Carolina rewarded him with his freedom and two hun-
dred pounds." Smyth, Tour &c. London, 1784, I,
109.

P. 340 — For some account of Dr. Wiesenthal, 1726-
1789, ist President and prime mover of the German
Society of Maryland, see, Hennighausen, History of
the German Society of Maryland. Baltimore, 1909.

NOTES 417

P. 345 — Cf. Letter of Henry Lee, of Prince William
County, Virginia, to William Lee of London, March
ist, 1775—

! We are making large Quantitys of Salt Petre from
the Nitre in the Tobacco Putrified with Urine and have
made some very strong well grained Powder in this
County therefrom wch ketches quick and shoots with
great force, so that we shall be able in Future to supply
ourselves with Salt Petre and gunpowder without Im-
porting any."

Lee of Virginia. Edited by Edmund Jennings Lee.
Philadelphia, 1895, p. 293.

See also, Work of the Ordnance Bureau of the War
Department of the Confederate States, 1861-1865. By
Professor Mallet [Alumni Bulletin of the University
of Virginia, III, 387] — "As regards the materials for
making gunpowder, search was made for nitre earth,
and considerable quantities were obtained from caves
in Tennessee, Georgia, and North Alabama, as also
from old buildings, cellars, plantation quarters, and
tobacco barns."

P. 374 — The old style was, ' The Government of
the Counties of New Castle, Kent, and Sussex upon
Delaware." By the Constitution of Sept. 1776, the
style became, The Delaware State." See, Conrad,
History of the State of Delaware. Wilmington, 1908,

If 150-

P. 379 — Scharf, History of Philadelphia, II, 966-
967, makes no mention of Reyan, but gives a brief
account of Lewis Hallam's company, whose vicissi-
tudes and stratagems at this time were very similar.
27

418 NOTES

P. 382 — See, Freeman's Journal (Philadelphia),
Dec. 24, 1783-

" At the French Academy

In Lodge Alley

At the particular request of a number of ladies &
gentlemen will be danced a second time on Saturday
the 27th instant by five & twenty scholars of the said
Academy

A Ballet

Representing the return of peace and the coronation of
the success of America

* *

There will be also decorations & transparent scenes
emblematical of the occasion, with an addition to the
figures and the scenery

* *

N. B. No admittance without tickets."

P. 385 — This communication appears in the Free-
man's Journal for Nov. 26, 1783, signed ' A. B.' who
quotes the Voyage to the Moon of Cyrano de Bergerac.

Francis Baily was the publisher of this very good
newspaper, ('in Market-Street between Third and
Fourt h- Streets '), of whom Bayard remarks- ' C'est
un homme bon, dans toute Tenergie de Texpression
anglaise, qui, pour etre sentie, doit etre accompagnee
de la valeur que lui donna Pope."

Voyage dans I'Interieur &c., p. 115.

P- 393 — Priscian, the first of Latin grammarians,
although in point of time one of the latest — The phrase
once current, " To break the head of Priscian."

P. 395 — What Schoepf himself had attempted to do
was not understood as early as 1798. See, Benjamin

NOTES 419

Smith Barton's Collections for an Essay towards a
Materia Medica of the United States. Philadelphia,
1798, p. 2. — " Mine is not the first attempt of this

kind Dr. Schoepf of Erlangen in Germany

has favored us with a specimen of such a work

The author arranges the articles according to the sex-
ual system of Linnaeus. This, though an objection, is
not the greatest. He has given us nothing from his

own experience But as the effort of Schoepf is

the best of its kind, so we ought to tread lightly on his
work. He is at least a man of learning, and learning
should always claim indulgence ' &c. — Almost simul-
taneously with Schoepf's Travels appeared the first of
Dr. Morse's numerous American Geographies and
Gazetteers.

P. 397 — In the copy of Schoepf's Travels in the
Library of the Historical Society of Pennsylvania there
is pencilled a note, " Robert Hare, brewer, Callowhill."
And in the Philadelphia directory for 1785, the first
directory published there, the entry appears, " Hare
& Twelves, porter brewers, Callowhill Street, between
Front and Second."

Therefore Dr. Schoepf's fellow-traveller was the
father of the late distinguished man of science, Dr.
Robert Hare of Philadelphia.

Citations

Bloch, M. :

Ichthyologie on histoire naturelle des poissons. XII
vols. fol. Berlin, 1785-87.

Carver, Jonathan, 1732-1780:

Travels through the Interior Parts of North Amer-
ica in the years 1766, ifd? and 1768. By J. Carver,
Esq. Captain of a company of provincial troops dur-
ing the late war with France. London, 1778. [2nd
ed. 1779, 3rd 1781.]

Catesby, Mark, F. R. S. :

The Natural History of Carolina, Florida, and the
Bahama Islands, containing the figures of Birds,
Beasts, Fishes, Serpents, Insects, and Plants: particu-
larly the Forest-trees, shrubs, and other plants, not
hitherto described, or very incorrectly figured by au-
thors. Together with their descriptions in English
and French. To which are added observations on the
air, soil, and waters; with remarks upon agriculture,
grain, pulse, roots &c.

London, 1731, 2 vols., folio, 2nd vol., 1743.

v. Crell, Lor. Flor. Fr. :

Die neuesten Entdeckungen in der Chemie. Leipzig,
1781-84.

Duroi, Jh. Ph. :

Harbkesche wilde Baumzucht, theils nordamerikan.
& theils einheim. Bailme Straucher und Pfianzen &c.
2 Bd. Braunschweig, 1771-72.

CITATIONS 421

Forster, John Reinhold :

Beytrdge zur Volker- und Lander kunde, gemein-
schaftlich herausgegeben von J. R. Forster und M. C.
Sprengel. Leipzig, 1781-83.

Gronovius :

Flora Virginica exhibens Plantas quas nobilissimus
Vir D. D. Johannes Claytonus, Med. Doct., etc., etc., in
Virginia crescentes observavit, collegit, et obtulit. D.
Joh. Fred. Gronovio.

Lugduni Batavorum, 1762.

Hasselquist, Frederic, 1722-1752 [Pupil of Linnaeus,

who published his Travels] :
Voyage en Palestine. Stockholm, 1757. 2 vols.

Kirwan, Richard [1733-1812], President of the Royal
Irish Academy :

i] Elements of Mineralogy. 2 vols. London, 1784.

2] Estimate of the Temperature of different Lati-
tudes. London, 1787.

Knoll Hnr. Eph. Fr. [d. 1786] :

Unterhaltende Naturwunder, Aeolus-Hohlcn, Don-
nerddmpfe, entziindbares Gewasser &c. Erfurt, 1786-

v. Schlozer, August Ludwig [1737-1809] :

Briefwechsel meist statistisches Inhalts. 1774-75.
Briefzvechsel meist historischcn it. politischen Inhalts.
10 Bde. Gottingen, 1778-82. [Several American
items of interest.]

Schneider, J. G. :
Naturgeschichte der Schildkroten. Leipzig, 1783-

89.

422 CITATIONS

v. Schreber, J. C. D. [1739-1810] :

Sailgthiere, in Abbildungen nach dcr Natur. Er-
langen, 1774-1823.

Sparrmann, Andr. :

Reisen in Afrika. Berlin, 1783. [German edition.]

Pennant, Thomas, 'of Downing' [1726-1798] :

i] British Zoology. 1766.

2] History of Quadrupeds. 1781. &c. &c. His
memoir written by Cuvier, in the Biographie Unii'cr-
selle.

Plukenet, Leonard [1642-1706] :

i] Almagestum Botanicum sive Phytographiae Plu-
kenetianae methodo synthetico digestum &c. London,
1696.

2] Phytographia sive Stir pin m illust riorum &
minus cognitarmn I cones, Tabulis aeneis &c. Lon-
don, 1691-92.

v. Wangenheim, Fr. Adam Julius [1747-1800] :

Beschreibung einiger nordamerikanischen Hollar-
ten, mit Anwendung auf deutsche Forste, mit 36 origi-
nalzeichnungen. gr. fol., Gottingen. 1787.

v. Zimmermann, Eberhard Aug. Wilh. [1743-1815] :

i] Geographische Geschichte der Menschen und der
vierfiissigen Thiere. Leipzig, 1778-1780.

2] Ueber die Verbreitung und Ausartung des Men-
schengeschlechtes. Leipzig, 1778.

3] Among his works, an ethnographical and geo-
graphical comparison of France and America, pub-
lished in two volumes. 1795, 1800.

SnDer

[Chiefly names of

Acadians, 331

Alexandria, 359

Alleghany Mountains, 230-232

Allen-town

(Northampton), 192, 193

American Philosophical So-
ciety, 77

Annapolis, 364, 369

Bachelors' Tax, 129

Backwoodsmen, 238

Baltimore, 326 ff

Bank of North America, 114

Barberry, 45

Bartram, 90, 92, 300

Bath-town, 310

Bayard, Colonel, 290

Bedford, 227, 293

Berry, Colonel, 240

Bethlehem, 134 ft

Bird, Colonel, 48

Black-horse, 30

Bladensburgh, 349, 351, 356

Bond, Dr., 75, 79, 322

Bonnet, Mr., 299

Boundbrook, 24

Brandon, Christopher, 306

Bridgetown, 20

Brinker's Mill, 164, 189, 190

Bristol, 53

Brunswick, 22

Canalaway Settlement, 307
Carlisle, 214

persons and places.]

Chalmers, I., 369

Charles-town, 372

Chester, 379

Chestnut Hill, 123

Chiswell's Mine, 299

Chovet, Dr., 84

Christiana-bridge, 376

Christiansbrunn, 191

Church disestablishment, 333 ff

Cist, Carl, 87, 109

Congress, 127, 128, 384*1

Congress-money, 389

Copley, 89

Cotton, 354

Cove, Great and Little, 304-306

Dalton, Captain, 235

Davidson, Professor, 74

Debtors' Laws, 361

Delancy [Dulany] Family, 314

Delaware, 374 ff

Delaware Falls, 47

De Peyster, Arent Schuyler, 150

Dickinson, Governor, 96

Duche, 89

Durham, Grotto of, 143

Eckard's, 163
Eger's Iron Works, 215
Elizabethtown, 12, 17, 19
Elliott, Mr., 302
Elm's Folly, 123
Ettwein, Pastor, 137
Ewen, Dr., 74

424

INDEX

Faesch, Johann Jacob, 36
Fairfax, Lord, 310
Falkner's Swamp,

(Pottsgrove), 202
Fences, 132, 133, 363
Fisher, Dr., 315
Flower-town, 125
Flying-machine, 42
Fort Littleton, 223
Fort Loudon, [Penn.], 219
Frankfort, 54

Franklin, Dr., 22, 72, 78, 86, 291
Frederick-town, 314
Freeman's Journal, 384, 385

Garden, Dr., 318
Georgetown, 357, 361
Germantown, 121
Ginseng, 236, 237
Glade Settlements, 234, 297
Glasgow Forge, 202
Glentworth, Dr., 95
Great Swamp, 133, 167, 188
Grenadier, Mistress, 277
Griffith, Dr., 24, 25
Grubbs' Iron Works, 207

Hagars-town, 313

Hamilton, Mr., 93

Hancock-town, 308

Hare [Hairs], Mr., n, 304, 397

Harford, Mr., 367

Harris, Mr., 220-222

Harris's Ferry

[Harrisburg], 212
Haverstraw, 38
Head of Elk, 373
Hedges, 132

Heller's House, 160, 189, 190
Henderson, Richard, 262

Henry, William [Nazareth],

156

Hibernia Mine, 34
Hirn-garmachen, 221
Hornblower, Mr., 33
Hiibner, Pastor, 137
Hummel, Valentin, 211
Hummelstown, 211
Husband, Herrman, 292-297

Independent Chronicle, 87
Indians, 147 ff, 277 ff, 302
Irish Servants, 339
Irwin [Irvine], General, 183,
276, 283, 290

Jacob's Plains, 173, 177

Kentucky, 261 ff.
Killbuck, Colonel, 276
Kuhn, Dr., 75, 83
Kunze, Professor, no, in
Kutz-town, 195

Laembner, Pastor, 156
Lebanon, 204
Leek's Mill, 312
Leshinsky, Sigmund, 140
Lincoln, General, 43, 45
Livingston, Governor, 19
Locusts, 209
Logan, James, 87
Long Meadow, 186

Mac Donald's Tavern, 303
M'Gregan's, 217
Maguntchy, 194
Maidenhead, 46
Mammoth, 266-270
Manufactures, 117 if

INDEX

425

Marshall, Humphrey, 93
Martin (the Doctor), 287
Martin, Colonel, 303
Maryland, 366 ff
Matlock, Timothy, 65
Middlebrook, 24
Middletown, (Conn.), 39
Middletown, (Md.), 314
Mining, 40 ff, 199
Moravian Indians, 147 ff
Morgan, Dr., 75, 83
Morris, Robert, 87, 115, 384
Mosengail, Mr., 26
Muskingum, 147 ff
Myerstown, 204

Nanticook, 173, 177
Nazareth, 153 ff, 190, 191
New-castle, 376
New Jersey, 49 ff
Noyelle, Mr., 38

Ogden's Mine, 34

Newfoundland Mine, 35

, Deacon, Mine, 35

Old Nazareth, 190

Oley Forge, 202

Ormsby, Mr., 274

Orth's Tavern, 208

Otto, Mr., 138, 143, 144, 320

Oyster-Island, 13

Paper-money, 389 ff
Passaik Falls, 48
Patten's Furnace, 202
Pea-nuts, 354
Peale, 89

Pensylvania Assembly, 382
Perth-Amboy, 22
Peter, Dr., 236, 291

Peters, Richard, 46
Petty-auger, n
Philadelphia, 55 ff, 379 ff
Philipse Manor, 38
Pine Forge, 202
Pittsburg, 242, 243 ff
Plummer, Jonathan, 272
Princeton, 41, 42, 46

Quaker-town, 133
Queen-Anne, 364

Reading, 195, 197

Reading Furnace, 202

Reyan, Mr., 379

Richmond (Staten Island), 17

Ringing Hill (Klingelberg),

202

Ritschall's Mine, 35
Rittenhouse, Mr., 77, 85
Robertson, Mr., 306

Rocky Hill, (N. J.)f 30, 31

— (Penn.), 129, 131
Rush, Dr., 10, 54, 75, 81
Riibsaamen, Mr., 7, 24, 26, 344

St. Anthony's Wilderness, 167
Salisbury (Millerstown), 240
Saltpetre, 340-348
Schoneck, 159
Schuyler Family, 33, 38
Sebitz's, 165, 189, 190
Shades of Death, 168
Sharpsborough, 313
Shavannah, 173
Shepherdstown, 313
Shippen, Dr., 75
Shippensburg, 218
Sim, Jacob, 315
Sinking Valley Mine, 299

42G

INDEX

Smith, William, 74
Snake Medicines, 316-321
Spiker, Mr., 233
Spring Forge, 202
Spring-house Tavern, 126
Staten Island, 16, 18
Steiner, Melchior, 87, 109
Stevenson, Dr., 324
Stewart, Colonelj 24
Stoy, Dr., 205
Suckasunny Mine, 34
Sullivan's Expedition, 179 ff
Sumitiere, du, Mr., 85
Sunbury, 177

Tea, 272, 304

Ten Eyck's Mine, 35

Theatres (Philadelphia), 379 ff

Thomas, Dr., 309

Tobacco, 353

Tobacco-note, 352

Trenton, 46

Tulpehacken Valley, 203

Turkey Creek Settlement, 241

Turtles, 249-251

Tutteral's Tavern, 324

Udree's Iron Works, 197, 199-

200
Union Furnace, 37

United States Magazine, 278
University of Pensylvania, 73
Van Horn's Mine, 26
Van Winkle, Peter, 96
Voltaire, 56, 62

Yale's Mine, 35

York, (New York), 15, 16, and

passim

Young's James, Mine, 35
Young (Botanist to the Queen),

92

Wagner, Stoffel, 134
Waller's, 304
Warm Springs, 309
Warwick Furnace, 202
Weber, Pastor, 164
Welsh Indians, 302
West, Benjamin, 89
White's Tavern, 213
Whiteye, Captain, 276
Wiesenthal, Dr., 340, 342
Wilksbury, 173
Williamson, Colonel, 151, 152
Wilmington, 377
Winchester, 313
Witherspoon, Dr., 41
Wyoming, 170 ff

New York Botanical Garden Library

E164.S3 1911 v.1 gen

Schopf Johann Davi/Travels in the Confe

3 5185 00070 0029